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Apple TV HD vs. Apple TV 4K Buyer's Guide
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I don’t see why you couldn’t reprogram either of those tbh. Keep in mind you don’t need to reprogram playback controls (but you can) you only need to map the primary controls. If you don’t know what I’m talking about you soon will when you start the process and complete the first set of controls. I say this because for playback controls with my PS3 remote I had issues getting the controls I wanted to use to take hold, so I chose to leave out “playback controls”. I use the D-pad on the remote and ”Enter” to do everything. For back/menu I mapped the “return” button because it wouldn’t allow me to map “back”.
Here’s the remote I mapped. I use the “AMP” mode button for my Apple TV 4K. When I wish to go from my PS3 to my Apple TV I just need to switch my TV to Input 4 (from Input 1) when in TV mode to go over to Apple TV. Then I press AMP and can turn on and control my Apple TV. I did all this so I need just this remote for my Pioneer Kuro TV, my Apple TV 4K and my PS3. You don’t need to do all I have. It sounds like you just want to reuse a remote exclusively for your Apple, so I’d imagine you’ll have no problem doing this. I believe the remote you use may need IR. My previous PS3 remote had Bluetooth only, the 2nd model PS3 remote has Bluetooth and IR.
Your PS4 remote appears like it would have both. Unsure about your PS5 remote. You can find out these facts pretty easy I’m sure.
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Not all of them, Samsung uses Tizen for newer models and Orsay OS for older ones and LG uses webOS.
Most of the smaller companies use Android TV.
Hey all:
I hope this thread isn't too old to reply to with a question. Most of these guides are geared toward people considering the purchase NOW usually. I'm in a slightly different situation. I purchased my Apple TV 4th Gen before the 4K came out. I also have an Apple TV 4k 1st Gen. The devices are on TV's suited for their capabilities, e.g. the HD is on a 1080p ONLY setup, where the 4K is on a 2016 Sony TV that's HDR10 compatible, but is HDMI 2.0, not 2.1
The question I've been tossing around for about a year now is, should I bother to upgrade the Apple TV HD right now, it still works for video Streaming, I don't game, or do anything intense that would make the older unit suffer under load. The Apple TV 4k 1st vs 2nd, wouldn't offer me anything new as a whole. My thoughts were, to get an Apple TV 4k 2nd put it on the TV where the 1st Gen is and move the 1st Gen to the TV where the Apple TV HD is. However, since everything is just working, should I just wait for one unit to die, or drop off of support since everything I need just works?
I'd be curious to hear feedback. Thanks
I hope this thread isn't too old to reply to with a question. Most of these guides are geared toward people considering the purchase NOW usually. I'm in a slightly different situation. I purchased my Apple TV 4th Gen before the 4K came out. I also have an Apple TV 4k 1st Gen. The devices are on TV's suited for their capabilities, e.g. the HD is on a 1080p ONLY setup, where the 4K is on a 2016 Sony TV that's HDR10 compatible, but is HDMI 2.0, not 2.1
The question I've been tossing around for about a year now is, should I bother to upgrade the Apple TV HD right now, it still works for video Streaming, I don't game, or do anything intense that would make the older unit suffer under load. The Apple TV 4k 1st vs 2nd, wouldn't offer me anything new as a whole. My thoughts were, to get an Apple TV 4k 2nd put it on the TV where the 1st Gen is and move the 1st Gen to the TV where the Apple TV HD is. However, since everything is just working, should I just wait for one unit to die, or drop off of support since everything I need just works?
I'd be curious to hear feedback. Thanks
It doesn’t sound like you’ll gain anything, so I probably wouldn’t. The only thing really coming down the pike for TV’s is 8K and I wouldn’t expect an ATV with that feature until next year at the earliest. It’s far from mainstream in TV’s.
The one thing that threw me was, it seems like people are advertising HDR@60 as a feature of the 2021 Apple TV 4K. That makes no sense, because my current Sony TV can do that over the enhanced HDMI 2.0 ports. Did I misunderstand somewhere, or can the 1st Gen Apple TV 4k not do 60 htz HDR?
You know what, you’re right, I had forgotten about that. The older 4K only does HDR@30.
Maybe I should pick the 2nd gen up then. I never would have thought HDR@60 wouldn't be a standard feature as long as the TV supports it, which most if not all do on the enhanced ports. My Sony has 4 ports, 2 2.0, and 2 1.4. By default they are all sent to do HDR@30, but turning on the enhanced features enables the ARC port, and the other port to do HDR@60. Funny that Apple didn't put that into the first 4k TV. Not that it would probably matter much. As most movies are 24p, or 30p (for older TV). Do you happen to know if the new Apple TV 4k supporting HDR@60 enables HDR for YouTube? That's my one remaining gripe about the 4K Apple TV, and why I still also have a Roku ultra is because of HDR Support on YouTube.
From what I can tell youtube on the new 4K ATV will support HDR if manually selected in the settings. Apparently YouTube doesn’t support the ATV’s match dynamic range setting. I just tried it myself and it doesn’t switch.
I'll give the upgrade some more thought then. YouTube is really the only source at this point where I'd need HDR@60 support everything else is non HDR. Most of my stuff is HD, or SD. And the 4K / HDR stuff I have is 24p as it's just regular movies. So any 60fps stuff I would be watching is either 4K (without HDR), or 1080p, or SD.
I have an iPhone 12 Pro Max, so as far as Apple is concerned, I can watch HDR YouTube on that. I like the OLED screen better, but OLED TVS as a whole aren't small enough for my space yet. The VA panel on my Sony is good though, it's just better in a lighted environment simply because of the backlight vs pure black like OLED. With that said though, LCDs have come a long way in quality, and it's impressive.
Another question: Since I don't plan on using the Apple TV for gaming, but strictly for streaming, does it matter if I get the 32 GB, or the 64? I ask because my current Apple TV 4K (1st Gen) is 64 GB, but my older 4th Gen (now HD) is 32.
For the most part, I haven't had issues with 32, especially after disabling screensaver Downloading. The only issue I was having is, Infuse would periodically clear it's Data for mo movies and TV. However, as mentioned this went away after disabling screensaver downloads. It looks like Apple has added the ability to no longer download Arial screensaver, but can stream them as long as there is a live internet connection. With this said, is there any reason to download the screensavers anymore? they seem to work fine without downloading.
Anyway, these would be my only concerns about which capacity to go with moving forward. I had planned to get the 64 GB so I would have 2 equal capacity devices, but it may be harder to get than the 32GB if I buy locally. (which I would prefer to do.)
For the most part, I haven't had issues with 32, especially after disabling screensaver Downloading. The only issue I was having is, Infuse would periodically clear it's Data for mo movies and TV. However, as mentioned this went away after disabling screensaver downloads. It looks like Apple has added the ability to no longer download Arial screensaver, but can stream them as long as there is a live internet connection. With this said, is there any reason to download the screensavers anymore? they seem to work fine without downloading.
Anyway, these would be my only concerns about which capacity to go with moving forward. I had planned to get the 64 GB so I would have 2 equal capacity devices, but it may be harder to get than the 32GB if I buy locally. (which I would prefer to do.)
Most people say it doesn't matter. I've never had an issue with either size. I have two 64GB and a 32GB.
Thanks guys, I'll keep that in mind. I don't feel so bad about buying 32 now. However, since Infuse is main use for the Apple TV, I might wait until I can get a hold of a 64 GB unit just to avoid future frustrations. It's not a big deal, but when it happens, it just wastes time while everything re populates. Beyond that, the older unit works fine, and I think I've had it since 2015, maybe 16, but it was purchased not too long after the Apple TV 4 came out.
For the price difference, I get the 64. Maybe for future-proofing and maybe just to ease my mind.
That was my plan. To get a 64 GB 2nd gen Apple TV 4k To replace the 1st Gen in the 4K setup and then move the 1st Gen 4k to the 1080p setup to replace the older Apple TV HD mainly for a speed boost and increased storage.
Yeah a 7 year old Appele tv works great still yet if you buy a roku, after a few years you will need another one which makes the entire Apple TV is more expensive a non issue.
I also Have Roku Ultra Units. A 2017, and 2020 unit. Both work. Each TV has the same main components, a Roku, an Apple TV, and a 4k Blu-ray player for physical media. The one in the 1080p setup is just used for regular Blu-rays, DVDs, and CDs, I have Sony players so they also support SACD, but I don't have any of those. The main gripe I have with Roku, they can't keep their devices stable. When they work, they also give a nice experience. With the Apple TVs, I finally found settings to change causing a poor experience with local streaming with Plex. Now much better now. My main reason I keep the Rokus, especially in the 4K setup is for HDR on YouTube. Apple TV isn't perfected there yet. However, most everything else is on Par with Roku, or better. I went Roku in the beginning because the Apple TV 3 didn't have the same flexibility as the 4th Gen and 4K do today, and I wanted to get into streaming before the Apple TV 4 was a thing.
Another possibility is to switch to Channels DVR to play local content.
I used to use Infuse to play local content, and used Channels just to record TV, but since Channels DVR switched to also being able to play local content I've been quite happy with it (and it's only one subscription fee, not two).
I know about the Infuse having to redownload metadata issue; I have not seen that with Channels -- but I also upgraded to a 4K 2021 64GB model, so... Maybe the same issue is present with Channels and 32GB, I really can't say.
Point is, overall, if you have any interaction with TV you probably want Channels; at which point you may then want to consider dropping Infuse.
Hmm. I have not heard of Channels. I will have to check that out and see if it is available in Canada.
I'll keep that in mind. Infuse is paid for for me. I paid for a lifetime subscription a few years back, so all updates are free for me now. As far as why I use Infuse, it's for the lossless audio on Blu-ray rips. as long as it's a non 3D format such as DTS-HD-MA, or TrueHD without Atmos, or DTSL:X metadata I get PCM 5.1. On the other hand, If i want the full Bitstream with the 3D data, I watch from the disc. Now I've been told the NVIDIA shield TV is the best for streaming lossless audio with passthrough, which neither Roku, or Apple TV do. I am happy with PCM 5.1 though when it comes to streaming my rips.
@GregoriusM I can also give you a tip I just discovered myself. IF you use Plex with the Apple TV, you can turn off auto adjust quality, and set it to use the new Player. This will allow Plex to directPlay MKV with Apple TV, from my testing DTS HD MA 5.1 is direct played, when I tried a movie with TrueHD 7.1, it was transcoded to FLAC, probably because I only have a 5.1 setup, or it does it automatically. Either way, FLAC is lossless so you don't lose quality. It just converts TrueHD to FlAC before it's sent as PCM from the Apple TV. Anyway, discovering this (from the Plex forums) has made the Apple TV even nicer for me to use for local streaming. I'm not stuck with Infuse now. According to the Plex App when changing the settings I did, going to technical details on a streaming file, and it's being direct played, it says it's using mpv. Just thought I would share in case no one here knew this.