Squilly your darn story's are always bizarre. How on earth did the SWI-RC and ASWC-1 not work on your Altima?!
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Squilly your darn story's are always bizarre. How on earth did the SWI-RC and ASWC-1 not work on your Altima?!
SWI-RC worked for a little (well not really) but now stopped entirely. ASWC never worked. I got it installed by Geek Squad. '08 Nissan Altima Coupe 3.5 SE with a Pioneer AVIC-8000NEX. Maestro came in yesterday, getting it installed tomorrow. Crutchfield says it's not compatible though. -_-
I told you from the get go not to buy the Maestro but in typical Squilly fashion, you don't listen.
Get the SWI-CP5.
Getting the Maestro wasn't really my call. It was recommended by Geek Squad, PAC and Metra tech support. Still don't know why the ASWC doesn't work though.
Tell me about it. This is my 5th time going there to get something fixed. They're installing it now though, hopefully it works. Edit: installed. Maestro works perfectly. Do you know if there's a way to reprogram one of the buttons though? Must I open the instrument panel to do so?
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I've never used the Maestro on an Altima. But if you wanted to change programming, it would have to be done when the Maestro is connected to a PC.
No real issues yet, except a "click" seeks to the next station and press & hold goes to my next saved preset. A little annoying but I'll either get used to it or reprogram that.
Need an AutoTech again 
I have two amps, one is a mono for the subwoofer and the other is a 4-channel for four speakers (two front component, two rear coaxial) with more than enough power for their rated RMS. Every 5 minutes or so, I get a "pop" followed by a "click". It sounds like it's coming from the rear. At times, sound from the speakers cuts out completely but the sub stays on. Amp has gone into protect mode once (yesfedday) but this has occurred more than that. Contacted numerous tech support numbers from manufacturers and the place I bought it; it's either the head unit pre-outs, 4-channel amp, or rear speakers. Ideas? I know it's hard to convey through text, but I really want to figure this out.
I have two amps, one is a mono for the subwoofer and the other is a 4-channel for four speakers (two front component, two rear coaxial) with more than enough power for their rated RMS. Every 5 minutes or so, I get a "pop" followed by a "click". It sounds like it's coming from the rear. At times, sound from the speakers cuts out completely but the sub stays on. Amp has gone into protect mode once (yesfedday) but this has occurred more than that. Contacted numerous tech support numbers from manufacturers and the place I bought it; it's either the head unit pre-outs, 4-channel amp, or rear speakers. Ideas? I know it's hard to convey through text, but I really want to figure this out.
Shouldn't have had Best Buy install it.
Drive to California. My guys will have it fixed in 5 minutes.
Drive to California. My guys will have it fixed in 5 minutes.
Need an AutoTech again
I have two amps, one is a mono for the subwoofer and the other is a 4-channel for four speakers (two front component, two rear coaxial) with more than enough power for their rated RMS. Every 5 minutes or so, I get a "pop" followed by a "click". It sounds like it's coming from the rear. At times, sound from the speakers cuts out completely but the sub stays on. Amp has gone into protect mode once (yesfedday) but this has occurred more than that. Contacted numerous tech support numbers from manufacturers and the place I bought it; it's either the head unit pre-outs, 4-channel amp, or rear speakers. Ideas? I know it's hard to convey through text, but I really want to figure this out.
Have u checked the voltage from each channel on the amp? Checked the ground as well? Is the head unit new? The speakers new?
In hindsight I should have gone to a true professional. Paid ~$700 in labor and I get all these issues.
Everything is brand new when I got it installed. 3 months ago-ish. I got an auxiliary to RCA cable yesterday so it bypasses the head unit. If it occurs again, head unit isn't the problem.
Haven't checked voltage but they say it's definitely not a wiring issue.
I was just going to ask about that. Got one cheap yesterday (3.5mm to RCA) but I don't know how to set it up. Which cable comes out of the amp (input or output and red or black)? When they tested it that way yesterday, they disconnected the head unit from the amp and tested front and rear speakers separately. I want to replicate that but while driving.
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I was just going to ask about that. Got one cheap yesterday (3.5mm to RCA) but I don't know how to set it up. Which cable comes out of the amp (input or output and red or black)? When they tested it that way yesterday, they disconnected the head unit from the amp and tested front and rear speakers separately. I want to replicate that but while driving.
If u have a head unit with more than 2 sets of preamp output rcas u shouldn't need that. Did someone tell u u needed that?
I don't need it, but I'm troubleshooting the system by bypassing the head unit entirely and using my phone as the media player. It determines whether the head unit preouts are bad or if it's the speakers/amp.
Did more troubleshooting, got an auxiliary to RCA cable yesterday, took out the current RCA cables that connect directly to the head unit and played directly through my phone. I got the "pop" and "click" when NOTHING was playing through my phone or on the radio which is very strange. So is it an amplifier issue? So many issues I'm facing and I don't know where it's coming from.
And you're sure they're both grounded well, with the power wire opposite the RCA wires?
I have no idea. I haven't messed with any of the wiring aside from the RCA's on the amp.
So... Yet another issue, although a bit odd. The cigarette lighter in the center console doesn't accept a charger/adapter. It's a 3.1A, plugs in and the indicator light turns on for a second then turns off. Is it too much voltage? I've gotten the charger replaced three times so that's definitely not the issue. Maybe a month ago, I got a fuse replaced since I thought the cigarette lighter port went bad, but it just seemed to cause more problems.
3.1a? European spec?
Most cig lighters take a 20 or 30a fuse. 3.1a is enough to power a small glovebox light lol. Most phone chargers draw 10-15a minimum.
Also the cheapo Chinese chargers off eBay and Amazon will blow fuses or melt. I went through 5 of them and finally bought a sprint charger for $30 and never had a problem after.
3.1A output (I think). 1A and 2.1A USB ports. Tried it again earlier and didn't work. Thought most were .5A or 1A.