I think you will need Mac Test Pro G3 (2000) for the 1999 Clamshells. Apart from memory testing, I have never found MTPs/ASDs/AHTs particularly helpful.
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Blueberry iBook Clamshell (1st Gen)
- Thread starter AphoticD
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
I think you will need Mac Test Pro G3 (2000) for the 1999 Clamshells. Apart from memory testing, I have never found MTPs/ASDs/AHTs particularly helpful.
The 32GB mSATA SSD and IDE adapter arrived, so I set out to dissect the Blueberry iBook.
To answer my questions about the power supply issues (i.e not charging the battery and the iBook seeing a 45W adapter as 26W).. Here is the reason why:
A blown 3-legged component (resistor? SCR/SSR?) directly behind the power source on the DC-in board. Included here is the burn mark on the underside of the main EMI shield.
Here's an up close macro shot. I can see the remaining markings are "... H 7".
If somebody with a dismantled clamshell iBook could confirm the markings on this component, I may be able to source a suitable replacement and challenge myself to solder it in.
Here's a shot of the PPC750L CPU for @LightBulbFun (I know you love looking at these mate). Also, Dez did you mention you had logic board schematics for this model? You might be able to tell me what the blown component is.
I think I'll put it back together now with the SSD. The teardown wasn't as bad as you guys were making it out to be
I'll keep an eye out for a replacement DC-in board, but they appear to be scarce.
To answer my questions about the power supply issues (i.e not charging the battery and the iBook seeing a 45W adapter as 26W).. Here is the reason why:
A blown 3-legged component (resistor? SCR/SSR?) directly behind the power source on the DC-in board. Included here is the burn mark on the underside of the main EMI shield.
Here's an up close macro shot. I can see the remaining markings are "... H 7".
If somebody with a dismantled clamshell iBook could confirm the markings on this component, I may be able to source a suitable replacement and challenge myself to solder it in.
Here's a shot of the PPC750L CPU for @LightBulbFun (I know you love looking at these mate). Also, Dez did you mention you had logic board schematics for this model? You might be able to tell me what the blown component is.
I think I'll put it back together now with the SSD. The teardown wasn't as bad as you guys were making it out to be
I'll keep an eye out for a replacement DC-in board, but they appear to be scarce.
The blown "..H7" diode (thanks) gives me a resistance of 200Ω on continuity tests. Other similar looking/sized diodes on the logic board (which are marked as 702T) give a resistance reading of 620-670Ω
Would it be a matter of matching resistance? I imagine the 200Ω reading is likely off the mark due to it being burnt out. (I don't know very much about electrical)
It would certainly take a steady hand to careful remove and fit this tiny component.
Would it be a matter of matching resistance? I imagine the 200Ω reading is likely off the mark due to it being burnt out. (I don't know very much about electrical)
It would certainly take a steady hand to careful remove and fit this tiny component.
I'm no profesional but as I understand the most common type of diode is rectifier (let current flow only in one direction).
I think you have to desolder the diode and measure it in diode mode with a multimeter as they need a little offset voltage to start to "work".
I' m not sure if comparing the resistance values of diodes of the same type measuring "in-circuit" can let you know something about them.
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will guide you better very soon.
I think you have to desolder the diode and measure it in diode mode with a multimeter as they need a little offset voltage to start to "work".
I' m not sure if comparing the resistance values of diodes of the same type measuring "in-circuit" can let you know something about them.
I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will guide you better very soon.
The 32GB mSATA SSD and IDE adapter arrived, so I set out to dissect the Blueberry iBook.
To answer my questions about the power supply issues (i.e not charging the battery and the iBook seeing a 45W adapter as 26W).. Here is the reason why:
View attachment 737750
A blown 3-legged component (resistor? SCR/SSR?) directly behind the power source on the DC-in board. Included here is the burn mark on the underside of the main EMI shield.
View attachment 737752
Here's an up close macro shot. I can see the remaining markings are "... H 7".
If somebody with a dismantled clamshell iBook could confirm the markings on this component, I may be able to source a suitable replacement and challenge myself to solder it in.
View attachment 737751
Here's a shot of the PPC750L CPU for @LightBulbFun (I know you love looking at these mate). Also, Dez did you mention you had logic board schematics for this model? You might be able to tell me what the blown component is.
I think I'll put it back together now with the SSD. The teardown wasn't as bad as you guys were making it out to be
I'll keep an eye out for a replacement DC-in board, but they appear to be scarce.
During my disassemblies I always take loads of photos, and have just trawled through several usb sticks. Here's a detail of the component (diode?) you require. Ident appears to be 8H 7. Let us know if it's a recognizable number and readily available. If so I guess it will need someone equipped with a microscope and good soldering equipment in order to change it out.
If eventually you need to change the board, I may possibly decide to strip down a clamshell just for available parts - no plans just at present though.
I'd be interested to know from any competent 'sparkies' reading this, what may have caused that component to blow. Could there be another component in the clamshell that caused this?
Last edited:
Beautiful shot. Thank you CooperBox. That's the one!
Now it's just a matter of sourcing it and giving the repair a crack.
In the meantime, I have put it back together with the SSD. I had no luck powering it up at first and thought I had killed it. Dreading that I had done more damage to the iBook than good, I reluctantly hooked up my (unfinished) "caveman" 45w charger and to my relief, it booted OK.
Somehow I have done even more damage to my Pismo's charger, so now that's on the repair list.
Here are some shots during the refit:
The mSATA SSD looks tidy installed without it's plastic cover in the iBook's HDD bay. I have used double sided adhesive to hold the adapter board down.
New (blue) 2mm silicone thermal pads are installed for the GPU, bus controller and CPU.
The iBook is booted from a Tiger USB thumb drive and installing onto a partition of the SSD.
I'll put Tiger, Panther and Mac OS 8.6 on the iBook and will hopefully sort out the DC-in board issue to allow the portable Mac to go untethered!
Now it's just a matter of sourcing it and giving the repair a crack.
In the meantime, I have put it back together with the SSD. I had no luck powering it up at first and thought I had killed it. Dreading that I had done more damage to the iBook than good, I reluctantly hooked up my (unfinished) "caveman" 45w charger and to my relief, it booted OK.
Somehow I have done even more damage to my Pismo's charger, so now that's on the repair list.
Here are some shots during the refit:
The mSATA SSD looks tidy installed without it's plastic cover in the iBook's HDD bay. I have used double sided adhesive to hold the adapter board down.
New (blue) 2mm silicone thermal pads are installed for the GPU, bus controller and CPU.
The iBook is booted from a Tiger USB thumb drive and installing onto a partition of the SSD.
I'll put Tiger, Panther and Mac OS 8.6 on the iBook and will hopefully sort out the DC-in board issue to allow the portable Mac to go untethered!
Last edited:
I tried to search for what exactly is that component but I'm still uncertain.
A "D" on the circuit board usually indicates a diode but for the prefix "8H" i found 4 possible components.
Someone else has to confirm what type of component it is.
It could be also a voltage regulator of 9.4V.
A "D" on the circuit board usually indicates a diode but for the prefix "8H" i found 4 possible components.
Someone else has to confirm what type of component it is.
It could be also a voltage regulator of 9.4V.
The 32GB mSATA SSD and IDE adapter arrived, so I set out to dissect the Blueberry iBook.
To answer my questions about the power supply issues (i.e not charging the battery and the iBook seeing a 45W adapter as 26W).. Here is the reason why:
View attachment 737750
A blown 3-legged component (resistor? SCR/SSR?) directly behind the power source on the DC-in board. Included here is the burn mark on the underside of the main EMI shield.
View attachment 737752
Here's an up close macro shot. I can see the remaining markings are "... H 7".
If somebody with a dismantled clamshell iBook could confirm the markings on this component, I may be able to source a suitable replacement and challenge myself to solder it in.
View attachment 737751
Here's a shot of the PPC750L CPU for @LightBulbFun (I know you love looking at these mate). Also, Dez did you mention you had logic board schematics for this model? You might be able to tell me what the blown component is.
I think I'll put it back together now with the SSD. The teardown wasn't as bad as you guys were making it out to be
I'll keep an eye out for a replacement DC-in board, but they appear to be scarce.
Just tore down one of my clamshells (complete with french keyboard
) to check out this component after some probing testing and sleuthing on the internet it looks like its this part MMBZ5233B http://www.s-manuals.com/pdf/datasheet/m/m/mmbz5221b-mmbz5257b_fairchild.pdf a 6V Zener diodesadly I accidentally slipped with the DMM probe while probing it out and blew it up, but before I blew it up I did manage to take a few readings/measurements I got a FVD (Forward voltage drop) of about 0.7V, and with the machine running I measured about 2.6v across pin 1 and 3 it defo seems to fit the description of that Zener diode
one of the upsides of blowing up D1 tho is my DC board also now sees my charger as 26W LOL so we know that D1 is the root of (all evil) this 26W charger issue
Looks like you just gotta replace D1 with a 6v Zener diode and in theory at least should fix the issue
Just tore down one of my clamshells (complete with french keyboard
sadly I accidentally slipped with the DMM probe while probing it out and blew it up, but before I blew it up I did manage to take a few readings/measurements I got a FVD (Forward voltage drop) of about 0.7V, and with the machine running I measured about 2.6v across pin 1 and 3 it defo seems to fit the description of that Zener diode
one of the upsides of blowing up D1 tho is my DC board also now sees my charger as 26W LOL so we know that D1 is the root of (all evil) this 26W charger issue
Looks like you just gotta replace D1 with a 6v Zener diode and in theory at least should fix the issue
Talk about going above and beyond for tech support! Breaking your own gear just to find out how to fix it is next level
I've found a local Aussie online supplier of the part here:
https://www.x-on.com.au/DetailsPage/Fairchild/MMBZ5233B/?ID=43/AgxvcdIrs+byytC8Dzg==
Does that look like the one? I'll order a few of them just in case.
Talk about going above and beyond for tech support! Breaking your own gear just to find out how to fix it is next level
I've found a local Aussie online supplier of the part here:
https://www.x-on.com.au/DetailsPage/Fairchild/MMBZ5233B/?ID=43/AgxvcdIrs+byytC8Dzg==
Does that look like the one? I'll order a few of them just in case.
well I did not intend to break it, but sh*t happens as they say
(mine failed dead short in both directions but even removing the component from the board still shows a 26W charger, so its defo needed, that or I blew something else up as well LOL)that looks like the part indeed, in theory any 6v zener diode should work, so if you have one on hand its worth tacking one on across pads 1 and 3 quickly to see if it solves the issue
Were you able to get that required diode? If so how's the repair going?
I ended up buying the part from China because shipping was cheaper than interstate (go figure). It’s still in transit along with a 5pk of PRAM capacitors to suit.
Once they arrive I look forward to stripping it down again and trying my hand at soldering the tiny parts on.
I did receive an 802.11b Airport Card for the iBook today and got it setup for WiFi. Tiger and Panther were a piece of cake. It’s amazing how easy Apple made Airport during this time when the industry was scrambling to decide upon a standard.
I got Mac OS 8.6 to recognize and use the Airport card by manually installing the Airport 1.2 Update .smi and manually extracted the Airport Extensions, control strip module and Airport application using Tomeviewer.
Airport 1.2 officially required Mac OS 9.0.4 as a minimum, but the manual workaround works well. It took a few reboots to get it right but once it’s configured it works. Although I was unable to connect to a 128bit WEP Network (made available from Internet Sharing on my G5 running Tiger), so I had to drop it back to the 40-bit encryption option.
The iBook is now one (less) cable closer to being untethered.
The parts arrived, so I had a crack at the repairs.
A) Replaced blown FAIRCHILD MMBZ5233B SOT-23 diode on DC-in board. The prior blow out caused two out of three of the solder pads to lift off as I removed the old part. Not having any epoxy to properly repair this, I scratched back the PCB to reveal the traces for the pads and soldered straight onto the exposed copper. Everything tested for continuity OK (soldering directly on traces appeared to keep the circuit intact). It didn't look pretty, but it should work.
B) While the logic board was exposed, I spent a LONG time fiddling with the tiny resistors for the PLL to overclock the 300Mhz G3 (4.5x multiplier). After reading many reports of the 300Mhz bumping up to 400Mhz OK, I attempted this enhancement by move the resistor at R8 to R7 and R11 to R12. Full table of multipliers/resistors are here.
C) Replaced PRAM capacitor on logic board for new. 5.5V 0.33F H Type Terminal Coin Super Capacitor
Re-assembled and powered on.
Results so far
1. First boot went into Mac OS 8.6 - locked up while loading extensions
2. Reboot with option key, selected Tiger partition
3. Arrived at Tiger desktop. About this Mac shows 400Mhz G3!
4. Went into System Profiler to check Power status - hard lock up.
5. Rebooted into Mac OS 8.6, arrived at desktop, ran Gauge Pro - Temps are sitting at 48 - 52°C. Ran Memory Test on repeat, got to 58°C but remained stable.
6. Rebooted into Tiger again. Got through to Power section in System Profiler: AC Adapter cannot charge battery: YES - AC Power: 26W!
7. Put to sleep. Amber Charge light is still only coming on when sleeping/powered off. Goes to green and refuses to charge battery when running.
8. Awoke from sleep - garbled UI, miscolored icons, etc. Hard lock up again.
9. disconnected power for 20 seconds - reattached and powered on. Startup disk was remembered. Kernel panic on boot.
So, I overdid the Overclock. I'll take a break from it for now, but will pull it apart again and drop back down to 366Mhz. I believe this should be stable. It only requires one resistor change from it's present state (R9 to R10).
The replacement PRAM capacitor appears to be working. I'll need to continue to test this theory.
While I have it apart, I'll try replacing the DC-in board diode again. Maybe I did something wrong with this. At the very least, it didn't go up in a cloud of smoke.
A) Replaced blown FAIRCHILD MMBZ5233B SOT-23 diode on DC-in board. The prior blow out caused two out of three of the solder pads to lift off as I removed the old part. Not having any epoxy to properly repair this, I scratched back the PCB to reveal the traces for the pads and soldered straight onto the exposed copper. Everything tested for continuity OK (soldering directly on traces appeared to keep the circuit intact). It didn't look pretty, but it should work.
B) While the logic board was exposed, I spent a LONG time fiddling with the tiny resistors for the PLL to overclock the 300Mhz G3 (4.5x multiplier). After reading many reports of the 300Mhz bumping up to 400Mhz OK, I attempted this enhancement by move the resistor at R8 to R7 and R11 to R12. Full table of multipliers/resistors are here.
C) Replaced PRAM capacitor on logic board for new. 5.5V 0.33F H Type Terminal Coin Super Capacitor
Re-assembled and powered on.
Results so far
1. First boot went into Mac OS 8.6 - locked up while loading extensions
2. Reboot with option key, selected Tiger partition
3. Arrived at Tiger desktop. About this Mac shows 400Mhz G3!
4. Went into System Profiler to check Power status - hard lock up.
5. Rebooted into Mac OS 8.6, arrived at desktop, ran Gauge Pro - Temps are sitting at 48 - 52°C. Ran Memory Test on repeat, got to 58°C but remained stable.
6. Rebooted into Tiger again. Got through to Power section in System Profiler: AC Adapter cannot charge battery: YES - AC Power: 26W!
7. Put to sleep. Amber Charge light is still only coming on when sleeping/powered off. Goes to green and refuses to charge battery when running.
8. Awoke from sleep - garbled UI, miscolored icons, etc. Hard lock up again.
9. disconnected power for 20 seconds - reattached and powered on. Startup disk was remembered. Kernel panic on boot.
So, I overdid the Overclock. I'll take a break from it for now, but will pull it apart again and drop back down to 366Mhz. I believe this should be stable. It only requires one resistor change from it's present state (R9 to R10).
The replacement PRAM capacitor appears to be working. I'll need to continue to test this theory.
While I have it apart, I'll try replacing the DC-in board diode again. Maybe I did something wrong with this. At the very least, it didn't go up in a cloud of smoke.
its a shame replacing the diode did not fix the Power issue, I would verify that it was put in the right way round and that the part you got was indeed working and not DOA.
glad to see the super capacitor replacement went well tho
it might be worth getting some better cooling on that CPU, the heatsinks in an iBook is a piddly little thing. (same for the Lombard LOL)
IBM PPC750Ls are generally cool running Chips but they dont overclock all that well, so indeed 366 might be your max, a good 400Mhz chip Might hit 500Mhz say in a Pismo but thats about as far as your going to get, i dont think I have seen anything faster. (I dont think I have seen anyone try and overclock a stock 500Mhz Pismo CPU)
Maybe all the messing around caused it grief. I bought a 5pk, so I'll replace it again.
glad to see the super capacitor replacement went well tho
It held NVRAM (startup disk selection) overnight, but lost date and time. I tested it with a 10 minute unpowered state after re-setting the clock and it held date and time OK for this short period. I believe this is normal behaviour for the clamshell though, so I'll consider this small fix a success. I can't recall if it lost startup disk selection prior (I think it did). Do the NVRAM settings require PRAM power?
I figured that seeing as though my Blueberry is a very early revision (possibly 1st), it wasn't one of the later models which shipped with an underclocked 300Mhz CPU (which may have been easily capable of reaching 400Mhz OC'ed).
Now this is just weird. I started it up from cold and About This Mac states 433Mhz. It's sitting stable for now, but will crash. I don't understand how it could magically jump from 6.0 to 6.5x multipliers.. maybe I crossed a circuit somewhere.
I'm sure it was only 400Mhz last night (in 10.4 and 8.6).. but it was 5am by the time I packed everything up. I fell into a real time warp with this one.
This is my note I wrote as I tried to understand the resistor table for the 4.5 to 6.0 jump
Is this correct? What do you make of it Dez?
EDIT: It dropped itself back down to 400Mhz after getting hot and locking up. There's something odd going on here. It looks like the R8 to R7 change may have been dodgy. I did end up re-using the little speck of a resistor for this one and it tested ~420Ω, the same as the others, but I just used a solder blob/bridge on R12 because it's resistor wasn't giving me any readings for continuity (I don't understand how). I'll remove the R8 resistor and solder blob it like I did with R12, then do the same with the R9 > R10 change.
Last edited:
I would defo check your jumper connections, it sounds like one of them is dodgy indeed especially if its changing as it warms up, i doubt the CPU would be very happy about the funny loadings on its PLL_Config pins, it might example some of the crashing.
I would just blob/bridge it yeah,
those Resistors are quite fragile so id not reuse them, same could be said for the diode too. take a DMM and set it to diode test mode ya should get something like 0.7V drop across pins 1 and 3 and only in one direction (also the parts are marked correctly right?, just making sure someone did not send ya the wrong ones)
PS all of this gave me an idea that that im going to look into tomoz
I would defo check your jumper connections, it sounds like one of them is dodgy indeed especially if its changing as it warms up, i doubt the CPU would be very happy about the funny loadings on its PLL_Config pins, it might example some of the crashing.
I would just blob/bridge it yeah,
those Resistors are quite fragile so id not reuse them, same could be said for the diode too. take a DMM and set it to diode test mode ya should get something like 0.7V drop across pins 1 and 3 and only in one direction (also the parts are marked correctly right?, just making sure someone did not send ya the wrong ones)
PS all of this gave me an idea that that im going to look into tomoz
Okay... well, I couldn't resist the urge to give it another go, so I went ahead with the teardown again (I should have this process memorized by now). I removed the reused resistor and popped off R9, then solder blob bridged R10. I then removed the replacement diode from the DC-In board, cleaned it all up and redid it with another new diode. I built it up a bit so that it's raised up and thoroughly tested all of the circuits again.
I put it all back together again and it is now happy at 366Mhz. No more lock up or kernel panics and it ran through GeekBench no problem. Temps are lower in Gauge Pro now at 42°C idle and 56°C top temp when running the Memory Test repeatedly.
Still no dice with the charging though. 26W and amber only during sleep/power off.
GeekBench results are now 173 up from 142. Which is on par with the 18% CPU speed increase.
Here's my resistor circuit now for anyone interested in overclocking an original clamshell to 366Mhz:
Here's the DC-in board with a solder platform rising straight up from the copper traces. And @LightBulbFun as you mentioned the markings.. It appears these are marked with 8H and then a "T" on it's side (Does this indicate something?). The previous diodes were "8H 7". I wonder if this makes all the difference?
Well, I'm happy with the overclocking, but the intention was to repair the DC-in board and now I just don't know what to do with it. Perhaps I should track down the "8H 7" marked diodes and try again?
I'll leave it for another day. This already ate up too many hours today (and last night).
-AphoticD
[doublepost=1513845693][/doublepost]Looking back at @CooperBox 's nice sharp photo of the DC in board, I think I may have jumped the lower right leg of the diode off the wrong trace. I kept scratching back silicon where the pad was and there was no sign of any copper, so I assumed it was attached along the right edge to the large trace area (light green) that the top leg was connected to. Now that I think about it, it makes no sense for both to connect to the same point in the circuit (duh).
So the question is, which trace did the pad on the lower right connect to? Now I've got the urge to dismantle it again... Damnit!
EDIT: Upon closer inspection of more photos, the pad for lower right leg has no top-layer indication of connecting to anything. Is that valid or have I just not found the correct trace? @LightBulbFun did you have a circuit diagram for this?
Last edited:
Here's a close up of the blown diode and the lower right pad doesn't connect to a trace on the top layer here.. so it's likely to connect to an inner layer on the PCB, right? As you may have guessed, I'm stabbing in the dark and learning as I go.
I went for the "third time lucky" optimistic approach and tore it down again (this time without referring to the guide on iFixit). Pulled out the DC in board, removed the diode and the solder stump which was on the lower right leg (pin 2) of the diode, cleaned it up, replaced with another new diode (in case the previous install caused it damage), leaving pin 2 disconnected.
While I had the DC in board in my hands, I tried to determine if there was a trace for the pad on pin 2 using a small LED torch to shine through from behind and reveal the inner copper paths of the board. There appear to be no inner layers, just top and bottom and I could not locate any copper trace for this pad. I am led to believe it is designed to have no underlying trace/connection for pin 2 and the diode is only used for pin 1 (lower left) and 3 (top). I'd love for someone to prove this wrong if they have the board readily available.
With a new diode installed (again), I tested resistance;
1. Positive on pin 1, negative on pin 3; ~800Ω
2. Negative on pin 1, positive on pin 3; 1 / OL (this is correct as I understand)
3. Reconnected and powered, tested voltage; 2.6v on pin 1 and 3 of the diode.
4. Re-Installed the battery and tested voltage; 3.0v on pin 1 and 3 of the diode when charge light goes amber
5. When "charging" (amber light while "powered off"), pin 1 (+) on the battery connection/terminal and pin 6 (-) indicate ~16v is being sent to the battery, which appears to be correct for charging.
6. Powering iBook on (without a display, keyboard, etc) resulted in the same behaviour; charge light goes green and voltage at the battery terminal drops to 1.8v (not charging). Diode on DC in board gives a reading of 2.6v
7. Power off and re-test; same result.
I re-assembled the machine again, booted up. Tiger reports AC Power is still 26w and not able to charge the battery. Removing the battery and booting up again results in the same 26w report.
I am still suspicious of the possibility of a missing trace for the pad at pin 2 which was either fried or damaged on this particular machine.
I don't have a Diode Mode test on my multimeter for determining the forward voltage drop, but I have a feeling that the part is correct and the problem lies elsewhere.
Anyway. I will call it quits on this one for now. I didn't think I'd be dismantling and soldering the board(s) of my iBook 3 times in a 24 hour span.
While I had the DC in board in my hands, I tried to determine if there was a trace for the pad on pin 2 using a small LED torch to shine through from behind and reveal the inner copper paths of the board. There appear to be no inner layers, just top and bottom and I could not locate any copper trace for this pad. I am led to believe it is designed to have no underlying trace/connection for pin 2 and the diode is only used for pin 1 (lower left) and 3 (top). I'd love for someone to prove this wrong if they have the board readily available.
With a new diode installed (again), I tested resistance;
1. Positive on pin 1, negative on pin 3; ~800Ω
2. Negative on pin 1, positive on pin 3; 1 / OL (this is correct as I understand)
3. Reconnected and powered, tested voltage; 2.6v on pin 1 and 3 of the diode.
4. Re-Installed the battery and tested voltage; 3.0v on pin 1 and 3 of the diode when charge light goes amber
5. When "charging" (amber light while "powered off"), pin 1 (+) on the battery connection/terminal and pin 6 (-) indicate ~16v is being sent to the battery, which appears to be correct for charging.
6. Powering iBook on (without a display, keyboard, etc) resulted in the same behaviour; charge light goes green and voltage at the battery terminal drops to 1.8v (not charging). Diode on DC in board gives a reading of 2.6v
7. Power off and re-test; same result.
I re-assembled the machine again, booted up. Tiger reports AC Power is still 26w and not able to charge the battery. Removing the battery and booting up again results in the same 26w report.
I am still suspicious of the possibility of a missing trace for the pad at pin 2 which was either fried or damaged on this particular machine.
I don't have a Diode Mode test on my multimeter for determining the forward voltage drop, but I have a feeling that the part is correct and the problem lies elsewhere.
Anyway. I will call it quits on this one for now. I didn't think I'd be dismantling and soldering the board(s) of my iBook 3 times in a 24 hour span.
Since when has anyone's real name mattered? Almost no one on here goes by their real name, although many of us know each other at least through other channels and I've met my fair share of members here in person.
BTW, I COULD give you lighbulbfun's full mailing address and he could do the same for me, but obviously I won't.
its a shame its not fixed it
hmm I know Pin 2 is not the issue as nothing connects there (its a dead pin) the diode is only across pins 1 and 3.
im not sure what the sideways T means exactly in this context, but the voltage drop your reading across it of 2.6V is what I measured across mine before I fried it so thats something. I never measured the resistance of mine like that (not something you normally do with diodes LOL) but the fact its conducting in one direction means its working right at least at the couple volts your DMM puts out in ohm mode.
did you try and reset the PMU during all of this?
glad to see its running stable at 366Mhz tho, now you can try and overclock the bus to 100Mhz
also man I could not stand having to take apart an iBook Clamshell apart like that so many times
Shame you haven't got to the bottom of it but just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading this thread, always nice to see old computers given the attention they deserve rather than just being chucked out.
That clears that up, thanks
Good thinking. Just tried three times. Following this page here: https://support.apple.com/en-au/ht1431
No change though.
glad to see its running stable at 366Mhz tho, now you can try and overclock the bus to 100Mhz
Are you doing this for your 7410 transplant?
Sorry to interrupt, but where did you get the wallpaper from with the hardware specs embedded?