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Bought a 12" Powerbook G4
- Thread starter DarkSel
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Yep.
I just bought a new DC-In board for the Powerbook and a new keyboard for about $30 total.
Wish me luck guys.
Also, the bottom case of the Powerbook is pretty banged up, does anyone know how hard it would be to replace it? A new one on Ebay costs $10.
Good luck!
To answer your last question though, to do that would require complete dissassembly. There is a connector underneath the logic board that you have to disconnect. To get to that you have to take out the frame, the heat shield and the logicboard itself. To replace the bottom case also means you'll have to remove the screen because the screen attaches to the bottom case. Once you get it all apart it'll make more sense.
Don't I have to take out the logicboard anyway to reach the DC-In board?
I'm debating on whether to replace it... it might increase future resale value.
The problem with resale is that by the time you've bought all the parts, you will have exceeded the resale value of the computer. For example, I recently fixed up the same model you have. I paid $50 for the computer, had to buy a charger ($20) and a battery ($40), maxed the ram ($30), and replaced the hard drive with one I already had, but would have cost me $40 if I'd had to buy it. I put it on Kijiji asking $175, and the best offer I got was $125. I also tried selling it on EBay, and had no takers even at $150. Watch carefully what you spend!
It needed a new DVD player, but I didn't do that because it would have taken me over $200 into the machine, which I would not have made back.
It needed a new DVD player, but I didn't do that because it would have taken me over $200 into the machine, which I would not have made back.
To be honest, I wouldn't worry about it. It might increase resale value, but it probably wouldn't be worth it right now, and since the value of the computer will decrease, it will only be less and less valuable as time passes.
Also, if you replace it, you will end up scratching the new one as it gets used- if you were to replace it, it would be best to replace it right before sale, and as I stated above, it probably won't be worth it then.
I spent $100 for a whole bundle: OS X Leopard, Office Mac, iWork 08, Original accessories/box, webcam, Airport router (what can I even sell this for?), and a case. I'm guessing I can sell Leopard and iWork for around $30-40 on Ebay, thus making the final price of the computer around $100 fixed up.
It also came with a gig stick of RAM that I can't even use (max 1.25 GB RAM).
I'm going to need to buy a new battery too ($20).
I guess the final cost would be around $115-$125.
You can sell Leopard for way more than $30- think more like $90. I would keep it until you get rid of the PowerBook. $100 is actually a pretty incredible price for that amount of stuff.
Good to know!
By the way, you wouldn't happen to know how much I could sell the original Airport Station for? (from 2000).
It's pretty unbelievable that I basically got this Powerbook for $100-$90+$30 = $40 (cost of DC-In board/keyboard); if I ever need to reinstall, I'll just borrow a copy of Leopard from a friend.
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I think the Airport Base Station will be basically worthless/under $10 on eBay. If it is truly the first version that is 802.11 B wireless, nobody wants it.
It's the first version.
It's graphite.
I looked on Ebay, and it's worth about $10-20. I'll probably list it as such to make a quick buck. I still think it's pretty cool to have a modem built-in for a wireless router
Only 2 more days until I can open up my Powerbook: can't wait.
having recently worked on exactly that machine, I make three recommendations:
- find out a way to order/number your screws (e.g. According to the steps on the I fixit guide), using anything from small boxes, bags or envelopes. Especially if reassembly for some reason would not happen right after disassembly, it helps.
- watch out for the two heat sink screws with springs. The bottom end of the screw is soldered onto the logic board, and those solderings are prone to breaking. I've had it happen a few times. If this happens you might need to find someone to resolder them. Apply gentle pressure (to negate the springs)to the screwdriver when turning.
- (applies to fixing any Mac, especially the older ones with stuck screws) make sure your tools (especially the Philips screwdrivers) are in tip top condition and really fit. You do not want to break a screw and if the driver head slips even once, the next time will be more difficult.
Good luck!
I couldn't wait and decided to take it apart today.
It's an absolute nightmare. There. are. so. many. screws. I lost track of which screws belong where after a while; hopefully, it won't be too hard to guess when I have to put it back together.
Quick question: I'm already going to apply new thermal paste on the CPU, but I'm not sure if I can keep the existing thermal "pad" on the chipset/GPU. Can anyone confirm?
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the DC-In module, but it is slightly wobbly. I guess we'll find out whether it was the problem once I receive a new one on Thursday.
It's an absolute nightmare. There. are. so. many. screws. I lost track of which screws belong where after a while; hopefully, it won't be too hard to guess when I have to put it back together.
Quick question: I'm already going to apply new thermal paste on the CPU, but I'm not sure if I can keep the existing thermal "pad" on the chipset/GPU. Can anyone confirm?
There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the DC-In module, but it is slightly wobbly. I guess we'll find out whether it was the problem once I receive a new one on Thursday.
I used a long table and put the screws on the table in the order they came out in the iFixit diagrams.
I've replaced a couple of logic boards. I found the pad did not interfere with the connection between the CPU and the heatsink, so I left it on, just cleaning off the areas of the CPU and the heatsink that would make contact, and applying the thermal paste to just those areas.
One suggestion that I have used at times in conjunction with the ifixit guides. They color code the screws (different colored circle around different size screws). I use that by having a colored container that matches the corresponding colored screw circle. Sounds kind of playschool but it works for me.
I decided to do that as well. I left the pads alone.
Also, since I mixed up many of the screws, I'm hoping many of them are similar enough to be interchangeable. For special screws, the iFixit guide mentions their size, etc which is extremely helpful.
Be very careful I have seen this happen too many times. A guy goes in to fix his powerbook, he thinks that some of the screws are interchangeable and one of the screws is off by a millimeter which damages the logicboard and destroys the computer.
I'm pretty sure you'd feel it if you're screwing into a logic board. At the end of the day, it's a $100 machine. IMO, half the fun is tearing them apart.
I didn't
What exactly happened?
Screw length should not matter considering the standoffs are not on the actual logic board. It's very difficult to damage the logic board in this way...
To update the thread, my DC-In module has arrived. Keyboard should arrive in a couple of weeks. I'll be reassembling the Powerbook in the morning. Wish me luck
Gotta say though, the Powerbook looks so simple and inexpensive when taken apart; it's literally just a tiny circuit board. Praying to the Apple God that I don't destroy anything by accident...