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This guide is amazing. I bought a cheap "dead" quad g5 on Facebook marketplace a while back that I always wanted to try and fix. I stumbled upon this guide and figured it was worth a shot. I bought all everything that I didn't have currently that the guide suggested on amazon. Everything I needed arrived this afternoon. I followed the guide to a tee, and it took me about 2 hours to complete. The hardest part was disassembling and getting out the lcs. After putting in the air coolers and reassembling, to my surprise it started up.

20250719_195104.jpg
 
@jacksonmf, I am glad that the guide was of value to you and that you now have a cool, quiet Quad, and an air cooled one at that. Never again will you need to worry about LCS failures or offensively loud CPU fans.

I am constantly trying to improve the guide. If you have any thoughts/suggestions in this direction, I would love to hear them.

Either way however, I am glad that the guide helped. Enjoy your revitalized Quad!
 
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@jacksonmf, I am glad that the guide was of value to you and that you now have a cool, quiet Quad, and an air cooled one at that. Never again will you need to worry about LCS failures or offensively loud CPU fans.

I am constantly trying to improve the guide. If you have any thoughts/suggestions in this direction, I would love to hear them.

Either way however, I am glad that the guide helped. Enjoy your revitalized Quad!
I'd recommend having a page at the front with the complete parts list including the spacers used. That's just being nit picky. It's a great guide!
 
Amongst the "goodies" I picked up a few days ago, along with the dead Quad and the two 20" Apple Cinema displays, was a copy of Microsoft Virtual PC v7 for Mac (PPC). I installed it today onto my Air Quad, and if one truth shines through, it is that there is nothing like Microsoft for bringing a Mac to its knees. I have always said this about Microsoft Office, but now I can report that it is true for Microsoft Virtual PC as well.

Virtual PC kept one core at least, at almost all times, running at 99%. CPU temps were nicely controlled, never leaving the mid 60s, but Mac OS X, unaware that it wasn't in charge of the cooling anymore, ramped up the CPU intake/exit fans to 3000 RPM and kept them that way as long as Virtual PC was running. Rather more noise than I would like!

So... I am going to have to run the intake/exit fans through another of those third party fan controllers with speed adjustment dials, the same as I have on my LCS-cooled Quad. That way, I drop Apple out of the cooling loop and all will be well/quiet again.

Thinking of Virtual PC? Don't do it unless you like fan noise!
 
By the way, about improvements to the guide, it says you can undo the screws on the processor card in any order you wish, but that's not really the case.

You want to undo the four screws that put pressure onto the card so that the CPU is flat against the heatsink in a criss-cross pattern, and gradually, few turns at a time. Undoing it in a different way risks cracking the CPU die. Same for tightening screws.

In general, with any heatsink half-mounted, uneven pressure on the die can lead to a cracked die.

I would also be a bit worried about the new heatsinks potentially cracking a die when the G5 is moved from place to place. If you aren't all too gentle when you put it down, you can transfer a whole bunch of momentum to those massive heatsinks, which just happen to be sitting on two screws, forming a convenient axis of rotation and potentially allowing the heatsinks to transfer all that momentum directly to the CPU dies. It's not that big of a deal, but I'd personally be a bit worried about it.

My current best idea for how I would address this is cutting out a thingamajig that would hold the heatsinks in a locked position out of a few layers of cardboard stacked together and double-sided-taping it to the bottom PSU plate thing. Laser-cutting out of metal would probably work too, although cardboard would probably have less bounce, meaning it would absorb some of the momentum through deformation. Wood would probably be as good as cardboard, and have the distinct advantage of looking sick.
 
Thinking of Virtual PC? Don't do it unless you like fan noise!
Virtual PC is an interesting case. It is, I think, one of the only pieces of MacOS software that is not significantly faster on a G5 than it is on a G4.

This is because on the G4 it leverages the little endian instructions it has to greatly speed up emulation while the G5 omits these instructions entirely and is strictly big endian only, which means a lot of overhead due to byteswapping.

When I tested this with the 7zip benchmark, a 2.5GHz G5 just barely inched ahead of a 1.4GHz G4.
 
Thanks @Nullcaller, good comments. I will look through the section in question and tighten it up a bit. Certainly I always undo the screws in a criss cross way - I THOUGHT the guide said that, but I will check and reissue as needed.

Honestly however, in all the years that I have been working with PCs and Macs, and that is a lot of years, I have never had a die crack.
 
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Nice, thanks, @mac57mac57! If you always undo the screws in a criss cross way, you'll certainly never have a die crack :) And, like, at some point, for anyone who've dealt with enough electronics, it just becomes an instinct that you don't feel like you have to explain. But yeah, it's better to reiterate this.

I've looked through the guide another time to check, but couldn't find anything about that, except it saying that you want to undo the four screws holding down the processor package last. I apologize for raising a false alarm if it does say the thing, and I'm just blind, though, cause my brain does that from time to time. Powers of observation, you know.
 
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This guide is amazing. I bought a cheap "dead" quad g5 on Facebook marketplace a while back that I always wanted to try and fix. I stumbled upon this guide and figured it was worth a shot. I bought all everything that I didn't have currently that the guide suggested on amazon. Everything I needed arrived this afternoon. I followed the guide to a tee, and it took me about 2 hours to complete. The hardest part was disassembling and getting out the lcs. After putting in the air coolers and reassembling, to my surprise it started up.

View attachment 2530164
Glad to read this...I too have a Quad lying around that I've been wanting to tinker with, but the LCS has scared me as trying to re-tool that is way above my skill level. This guide, though, sounds like something I can tackle, so I may try to carve out some time in the next few weeks to finally give it a shot. Thank you to Michael for all of his efforts in producing this amazing guide!
 
Question, and apologies in advance if this is already answered in the guide, but…does the G5 aluminum panel covering the original LCS fit back over the CPU bay after this modification, or does the new air-cooling system prevent that from being reinstalled? Just would love the system to look as “normal” as possible, but not a big deal if the addition of the fans keeps that from being possible. Thanks!
 
Question, and apologies in advance if this is already answered in the guide, but…does the G5 aluminum panel covering the original LCS fit back over the CPU bay after this modification, or does the new air-cooling system prevent that from being reinstalled? Just would love the system to look as “normal” as possible, but not a big deal if the addition of the fans keeps that from being possible. Thanks!
Yes it does fit! My PCQ (PC Cooler Quad) has its original cover panel reinstalled over the coolers, and there's even a few mm of clearance so it doesn't rub against the coolers.
 
Thank you for this guide! I took heavy inspiration from it, however I was unable to get the Frozn A400 cooler anywhere here in Germany, which is why I went with the Thermalright Assassin King 90 because it appeared similar in mounting hardware and dimensions and wasn't very expensive either (€19).

One advantage of the Thermalright is certainly the fact that it has a solid copper baseplate, so no copper shims are needeed to spread the heat from the CPU die onto all the heatpipes of the cooler (but careful, Thermalright has many similar coolers and the King 90 appears to be the only one with that particular feature). However, it turns out that the Thermalright is ever so slightly too wide, so I ended up having to grind away most of the protruding part of the fins where the fan mounting brackets are supposed to clip onto on one side of each cooler. Also, while the included mounting hardware does include "knurls" similar to the ones of the Frozn A400, they do in fact not screw onto the pegs that Apple uses to hold the CPU cards in place, so I had to figure out what threading these actually use (it's M3.5, which explains why nothing "normal" would fit) and then order some M3.5 thumb-nuts from China since I was again unable to find any for sale locally. One thing to note here though: Apparently, M3.5 is a screw size that was commonly used for mounting Intel LGA2011 coolers, so if you have an old PC cooler (or at least its mounting hardware), then there could be a M3.5 knurl included with it.

Another thing I had to keep in mind because of my approach is to raise the mounting bracket on the side with the knurls to match the height of the one on the other side as much as possible, as that way you are much less likely to accidentally crack your CPU die due to uneven pressure - I did this by purchasing a pack of 1mm thick plastic washers and stacking them. In your original guide, this happens automatically because of the knurls not screwing down all the way.

But anyway, I now have a cool and quiet G5 quad that I (hopefully) won't have to service again. Idle temperatures now hover around 30c (at about 20c ambient) and I haven't seen more than 65c under load, even when running synthetic loads like Geekbench 2 or Cinebench 11.5, which in both cases is at least 10c less than previously with the LCS! It's Geekbench 2 32-Bit Score is 3272 and the Cinebench 11.5 score is 1.99 by the way, in case anyone's interested. Temperatures under normal (non-synthetic) load usually hover around 50-55c.

IMG_7278(1).jpg


For future reference, I assume that any cooler using the same style of mounting hardware and identical (or smaller) dimensions should work the same - I was originally thinking about buying the Noctua NH-U9S as it was the only other similarly sized cooler I could find with a solid copper baseplate, but given that it appears to be at least 1mm wider than the Thermalright I'm glad that I didn't - can you imagine grinding away at a €70 heatsink?
 
Thanks for this update, @silentdragon95. I am glad that the guide was of use to you.

You have certainly been of use to it! I will update it to include the new knowledge from you that the guide pegs from the mobo are M3.5. That is REALLY useful to know, and opens the whole solution up to many more cooler possibilities, now that those A400 gnurls are not a critical part of it.

Thanks again, and enjoy your newly quiet Quad!
 
Also, while the included mounting hardware does include "knurls" similar to the ones of the Frozn A400, they do in fact not screw onto the pegs that Apple uses to hold the CPU cards in place, so I had to figure out what threading these actually use (it's M3.5, which explains why nothing "normal" would fit) and then order some M3.5 thumb-nuts from China since I was again unable to find any for sale locally. One thing to note here though: Apparently, M3.5 is a screw size that was commonly used for mounting Intel LGA2011 coolers, so if you have an old PC cooler (or at least its mounting hardware), then there could be a M3.5 knurl included with it.
What length of those M3.5 screws (or nuts?) did you order/use? Please show an example of what they look like so it's easier to figure out. Thanks!
 
I thought about this @ZacharyFergeson, but it isn't practical. Quads are big, heavy boxes, and just the shipping costs alone in EACH direction would exceed $US 100. Then there is a little over $US 100 in parts and then the cost of my time/labor. My guess: this service would have to be priced in the $US 400 region. You could almost buy a new Quad on eBay for that amount! ... and then you have to consider that after all that money, your Quad might be damaged by the shipper on it way back to you (or on its original journey to me!).

I do understand your "terror" though - in learning how to get to this point, I completely "smoked" one Quad CPU card, damaged another, and bought a whole separate G5 Dual just as a "donor" machine, using it for non-CPU parts. No matter how good my guide might be, this is not an easy task. If you like this kind of work, it can be (somewhat) fun, but otherwise, it is a real slog.

Now that I have the process down, I would love to repeat it on other folks machines for them, but I doubt that anyone would find it to be financially attractive, not to mention the ever present possibility that the shipper might damage the finished product on its way back to you. Just not practical for all sorts of reasons!
I'm not against that kind of pricing for it to be done right. If you can PM me I'd love to work something out.
 
What length of those M3.5 screws (or nuts?) did you order/use? Please show an example of what they look like so it's easier to figure out. Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply! I bought them on eBay with shipping directly from China and they were supposed to look like this:
1757396810881.jpeg

The proper english term should be "knurl nut" or "knurled nut". The ones I actually got look different for some reason, but they do still fit. If you go with the Thermalright, it's just important that the lower part isn't too thick because then it would collide with the edges of the mounting bracket. I've taken some more pictures:
IMG_72551.jpg

This is the side with the M3.5 knurl nut. In order for the mounting bracket to fit over the pegs you do need to enlarge the screw hole using a drill as well, though not as much as in the guide. Similarly to @mac57mac57 I just eyeballed this and used a random 5mm titanium drill bit that I happened to have - it doesn't need to be exact, as long as the bottom of the knurl nut is thicker than the hole.

On the other side, I used M3 screws (and a metal washer + paper washer for insulation on the underside of the CPU card). This has the benefit that the knurl nuts included with the Thermalright can be used to tighten that side down. I just ordered a pack of various lengths with washers for €5 on Amazon, the 20mm long ones did the trick for me. To clear the surface mounted components, the blue spacers that are included in the AMD mounting kit of the Thermalright work very well. I have a picture of that as well:
IMG_72511.jpg

In total, the CPU cards looked like this:
IMG_72561.jpg
 
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Sorry for the late reply! I bought them on eBay with shipping directly from China and they were supposed to look like this:
Thanks for the clarification! Now I understand what you did. 👍

I have 2 Quads. I might as well give the air cooling a try on one of them. The coolers you used are much easier to get here in Europe than the A400s. And 19€ each from A. like you said, I ordered a pair for the project.
 
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@silentdragon95, nice work and thanks for the photos. Well done!

As long as the cooler (a) fits the space and (b) can dissipate more heat than the 970MP can produce, it should work.

From the photos, those CPU cards look like they came from a dual pump LCS? Did they? What did you do with the LCS? If the pump works, I could be interested in buying it (if it is not too expensive). PM me if this might be of interest.
 
can transfer a whole bunch of momentum to those massive heatsinks

I have thought about this too. If/when I ever do this conversion for someone else, I have a large collection of variably sized styrofoam blocks that I would insert into the case when done, using them to mechanically stabilize the coolers prior to boxing and shipping. Upon receipt, these blocks would need to be removed - anything that might disrupt airflow in the case is not to be taken lightly!
 
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I've just realized, by the way, if I were to air cool a Quad, I'd probably find some M3 nuts and fitting screws and use them to better attach the VRM heatsink to the CPU daughter board, using the holes where the VRM heatsink was previously screwed into the big cast plate on the original heatsinks. It's probably no big deal, since the glue-like thermal pad thing will probably hold the heatsink attached just fine, but it is technically designed with the fact that it's gonna be under mounting pressure in mind, and thermal characteristics might thus suffer slightly if it isn't. They probably don't, but still, I wouldn't like to take chances when we're talking about a few bolts & nuts.
 
Also, I decided to check whether the motherboard guide pegs are M3.5, because I had previously measured the inner diameter on the corresponding original hex nuts/screws to be 3.1 mm, but yeah, they're M3.5. Major diameter is 3.35 mm, which is on the smaller side, but checks out, and 7-8 turns take up approximately 4.5 mm of thread, which, yeah, means the pitch is pretty much 0.6 mm. It's just weird, because the rest of the screws are M3, and the guide pegs aren't exactly structural, so they don't really need the extra material.
 
From the photos, those CPU cards look like they came from a dual pump LCS? Did they? What did you do with the LCS? If the pump works, I could be interested in buying it (if it is not too expensive). PM me if this might be of interest.
Yes, my G5 is indeed one of the dual pump models. The LCS does work and I still have it, however I'm really not sure if shipping it across the pond is viable, particularly right now - I've sent you a PM though.
 
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