When taking your photo, first take a breathe, then hold it while you press the button. Take extra care that the action of pressing the button is not moving the camera. That's a very common problem. If you're holding the camera out in front of you, see if your arms are moving or shaking. If so, press your elbow against your stomach and use your body to steady your arm. This will only work if you're holding your breathe. Think of optical image stabilisation, and digital stabilisation as taking care of the tremors that you can't control, while the ones which you can control remain your responsibility.
When framing your shot, see what the focus square is on. In the shot with the two heads and the present being opened, the present is not actually the focal point, but rather the back of the head on the left. You can tap on the screen to set exactly what you want in focus. That will also ensure that specific point is well lit. Often I play with touching to set the focal point to control the lighting, when there is a range of low light and bright light in a scene, such as an indoor shot that includes a window, or a dim room with a lit Christmas tree.
Ideally, if there are regions of your frame with drastically different light levels, you can re-position yourself to re-frame the shot, to have a more consistent light level throughout the frame. For example, not having the window in the shot. Obviously you'll want to keep the Christmas tree in the shot, so maybe you can re-frame it to avoid the really dark areas.
Also, if you're trying to combine several subjects in one photo, try to reduce their relative distance from the camera's perspective, so that they'll all be in focus. With the photo of the two women, and the photo of the males and present, it seems that you're too close to them, and just another meter away would fix the focus problem. Think of it this way: if subject A is 1 meter away and subject B is 2 meters away, that's a 100% difference in distance. But if subject A is 2 meters away and subject B is 3 meters away, that's a 50% difference in distance. They are still in the same positions, relative to each other, but closer to each other from the perspective of the camera, just by moving back 1 meter. You can then later crop the photo so the subjects take up the whole frame, if you prefer.