From @SubDriver (24 May 2025)
Converting iMac 5K Retina Display to a Standalone 5K Display
I believe the details in the table below are accurate, but I am not 100% certain. I tried my best to use reputable sources (datasheets, etc.) for the info in the table, but some information comes from retailer sites with translations from Chinese. If you see errors in the table or have info that will fill a gap, please point them out. Many thanks to @PaulD-UK for his assistance in checking and updating the info below.
For those interested in 4K Display conversions for 21" iMacs, there are a couple of 4K only boards included in the table below.
General Notes for the Table:
1. Power delivery via USB C requires 24 Vdc power supply
2. Host computer’s GPU must support 5K resolution to obtain 5K on the display (every Apple silicon Mac is capable of driving at least one 5K display). 2018 and earlier Macs with DP 1.2 only support 4K (1080p HiDPI), except R9A18 (see Note 4).
3. USB C connection will provide 5K resolution using a single cable, but you must ensure you have a proper cable (search for “8K cable” in this thread for additional info)
4. R9A18 boards only achieve 10 bit color depth via DisplayPort requires using two DP cables (see post #1409 for one potential solution). Single DP cable gives 8 bit color depth.
5. A 30 Hz refresh rate is generally not recommended due to choppiness of items in motion on the display (e.g., viewing videos)
6. HDMI 2.0 can't achieve 60 Hz refresh rate at 5K resolution. The JRY--AA1 board appears to be limited to 30 Hz for 5K resolution over HDMI 2.0. HDMI 2.1 boards can achieve 5K, using compression technology (e.g., Display Stream Compression, or DSC) and requires proper HDMI 2.1 cables.
7. All the boards will support higher refresh rates at lower resolutions (i.e., 4K or less). The table is a comparison of board performance at 5K resolution only.
8. The details in the table reflect performance/capabilities when using MacOS. Windows or other operating systems may yield different results.
9. Although some boards have shown the ability to use either 12Vdc or 24Vdc inputs, best results appear to come from using 24Vdc power supplies for those boards. There are more reported issues of strange behavior from those using 12Vdc inputs.
Other Considerations
1. Complexity of your conversion – what are your objectives?
2. Audio – Each board includes audio amplifiers if you desire to re-use the iMac speakers. For internal computer speakers, they are very capable and high quality with separate leads for the tweeters and woofers. However, this also necessitates using some form of crossovers from the driver board in order to split out the treble and bass signals appropriately for the tweeter and woofer. There are two general methods to do this:
3. Power supply options
4. Depending on your use case, you may want to also purchase a constant current board for additional brightness – for example using the display in a bright, sunlit room.
5. Noise considerations
6. Care in disassembly of the iMac is required, especially during removal of the display panel. The glass is permanently attached to the panel. The iFixit site has excellent step by step instructions (ifixit link #1 and ifixit link #2) and there are also many YouTube videos showing the process. Do not poke sharp metal blades too far, as irreversible damage can be done to the internal screen electronics.
7. Some boards sold on AliExpress may be re-used/returned boards and it is sometimes hard to discern this from the website descriptions. Be sure to read each site closely and ask the retailer about it if it is important to you to get an unused board.
Key posts from the “DIY 5k Monitor - success
- Post 1409 (R9A18 project by @Kaeslin)
- Too many great posts by @PaulD-UK to count. Here are a few:
+ 1822 (General board info…)
+ 1602 (Lots of great overall advice…)
+ 489 (PaulD’s R1811 build)
- Many from @Aiwi, the most comprehensive is 822 (R1811 Project)
- Posts 410 & 411 (Power Button)
- Post 490 (T18 Project by @pSpitzner)
- Post 180 (R1811 Project by @Gold240sx)
- Post 414 (R1811 Project by @LeMelleKH2)
- Post 512 (R1811 Project by @kevinherring)
- Post 2681 (JRY-SA1 project by @SubDriver
Other Useful Websites
Aiwi Github page - https://github.com/aiwipro/5K-iMac-Studio-Display-Stock-Look
Mykola’s guide (March 2022) - https://khronokernel.com/macos/2022/03/01/5K-MONITOR.html
“Converting a 5K iMac into an External 5K Display” (April 2023) article - https://ohmypizza.com/2023/04/converting-a-5k-imac-into-an-external-5k-display
A February 2023 blog post - https://mschmitt.org/blog/convert-5k-27-imac-external-display-usb-c/
Driver Board Manufacturer Datasheets
R1811 - http://chiyakeji.com/content/?635.html. Also another Datasheet (direct MR PDF download link).
R9A18 - http://chiyakeji.com/content/?619.html
Chipset Comparison – RealTek vs MediaTek
Although I have not found anything on the internet specifically comparing the RealTek and MediaTek chips on these boards, there are some general comparisons about the products the companies produce.
A Google search yields, “When comparing MediaTek and Realtek performance, MediaTek generally offers slightly better overall performance in terms of stability and power efficiency, while Realtek might sometimes edge out with slightly faster speeds in specific scenarios, but may consume more power; both companies produce comparable chips depending on the specific model, so the best choice depends on your priorities for speed, power usage, and stability in your application.”
This seems to be consistent with the fact the top end RealTek board (R1811) includes a cooling fan for the chip whereas the top end MediaTek board does not. However, this is far from a definitive statement – YMMV!
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Original 07 Sep 2020 post from fiatlux below - many thanks to him for starting this thread
My "latest Macs" are a heavily upgraded 2009 Mac Pro (6c CPU, M.2 SSD, USB 3, RX580...) and more recently a 12c 2013 Mac Pro with an eGPU (Vega 56) - both machines with more than enough CPU power, GPU power and RAM for my needs, but I long aspired to upgrade to a nice 5k monitor to replace my aging 30" WQHD monitor which only took dual-link DVI inputs (requiring clunky and expensive adapter on the MP tube).
The LG 5k Ultrafine monitors are relatively pricey and limited to TB3 (and USB-C) inputs so, no really an option for my equipment.
Dell, HP and Philips all used to offer 5k displays which took two DP 1.2 inputs to run at 5k, but they were all quickly discontinued and don't have the best reliability reputation (does the latter explain the former?).
The last option was Iiyama's 5k which appeared to share the same LG Display panel as the iMac and LG monitors and supported 5k with a single DP1.4 input, but with electronics limiting color to 6 bit+FRC and with poor color accuracy reviews. It has recently been EOL'd.
I was about to give up when I started reading reports on DIY 5k monitors made from spare parts sourced from the Internet. I was intrigued and gave it a go. I should warn you that this is a risky enterprise and that you need a bit a faith (you need to source parts from questionable sources without much if any warranty). It also won't be a dirt cheap option - likely much cheaper than a new LG monitor, but still not dirt cheap.
Here is what you need as a minimum:
Connecting the two isn't difficult (you have to be careful with those flat cables and thin connectors) and is enough to have a working 5K monitor but, without a proper enclosure, the screen isn't terribly rigid and the whole setup a mess with exposed electronics.
From there you have plenty of options I guess, depending on you DIY skills, but I elected to go for a nice and tidy look, and an option not requiring too much messing around with tools. Having bought an iMac panel, the easiest is to purchase an empty 27" iMac housing - the A1419 version for which the LM270QQ1 is designed to be the "drop-in" replacement screen. The housing is large enough to host the driver board (and even the power adapter if you want). You will have to make sure the display and power cables are correctly connected and routed to the outside (most likely through the memory access panel) before you attach the screen with those pesky sticky strips.
Sourcing a new 27" iMac housing spare part is probably not going to be easy, or affordable, but used parts can often be found on eBay - in various conditions but much cheaper. Note that most often than not the housing will come without a stand, which means another challenge to address.
I wanted to be able to control height and tilt of the monitor anyway, so I pursued the VESA mount option. As you may know, the A1419 does not offer any official solution to install a VESA mount if that option was not selected at purchase time, but it turns out that you can easily remove the original stand hinge mechanism (at least when you have an empty housing), use a A1312 stand hinge mechanism instead and then install the Apple VESA kit which was designed for the older 24"and 27" iMacs and Thunderbolt displays (there are third-party options).
So, in addition to the above panel and board, here is what I needed to get a 5k monitor looking like a VESA-mounted iMac:
5K/60Hz/10 bit works without any problem on a single DP 1.4 cable with the RX580 or Vega 56, the 4K/30Hz/8 bit over HDMI looks surprisingly nice and crisp (150% size in Windows, similar scaling in macOS), not tested USB-C yet. Colors look very nice, the control board on-screen menu offers the options of native/sRGB/AdobeRGB/P3 color spaces, but I have yet to measure and profile the monitor.
Do not hesitate to ask any question!
Converting iMac 5K Retina Display to a Standalone 5K Display
I believe the details in the table below are accurate, but I am not 100% certain. I tried my best to use reputable sources (datasheets, etc.) for the info in the table, but some information comes from retailer sites with translations from Chinese. If you see errors in the table or have info that will fill a gap, please point them out. Many thanks to @PaulD-UK for his assistance in checking and updating the info below.
For those interested in 4K Display conversions for 21" iMacs, there are a couple of 4K only boards included in the table below.
| ________ | _____ | Video Inputs (Resolution/Hz/bit depth) | ____ | _____ | ____ | _______ |
| Controller Board | Input Voltage | HDMI Ports (Protocol) | DisplayPorts (Protocol) | USB C (PD Watts) | Audio Amps | Driver Chip | Chip Maker | USB-A / B Ports (Version) |
| R1811 V.4 HDMI 2.1 | 24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (65W)(5K/60/10) | 10 W | RTD2718Q | RealTek | 2 / 0 (2.0) |
| R1811 V.4 HDMI 2.0 | 24 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (65W) (5K/60/10) | 10 W | RTD2718Q | RealTek | 2 / 0 (2.0) |
| R9A18 V1 (Note 4) | 12 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (5 (4K/60/8) | 2 (1.2) (5K/60/10) | None | 10 W | RTD2718Q | RealTek | None |
| R9A18 V1.1 (Note 4) | 12 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | None | 10 W | RTD2718Q | RealTek | None |
| R9516 V2 (4K board only) | 12/24 Vdc | 1 (2.0) (4K/60/10?) | 1 (1.2) (4K/60/10?) | Y (65W) (4K/60/10?) | 10 W | ? | ? | 2 / 0 (2.0) |
| JRY-W9CUHD- AA1 (Note 5) | 12/24 Vdc | 1 (2.0) (5K/30/8) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/8) | Y (65W) (5K/60/8) | 2 W | MT9801V | MediaTek | 2 / 1 (2.0) |
| JRY-W9RQUHD-FA1 | 12/24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | None | 3 W | MT9801V | MediaTek | None |
| JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 | 24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (90W) (5K/60/10) | 3 W | MT9801V | MediaTek | 2 / 1 (3.0) |
| Haijing T95MV (SG95MW) (4K board only) | 12/24 Vdc | 1 (2.0) (4K/60/10?) | 1 (1.2) (4K/60/10?) | Y (60W) (4K/60/10?) | 10 W | RTD2795UT | RealTek | 2 / 1 (2.0) |
| Haijing T18 | 12/24 Vdc | 2 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | Y (65W) (5K/60/10) | 5 W | RTD2718Q | RealTek | 2 / 1 |
| Haijing T19 | 12/24 Vdc | 2 (2.1) (5K/60/10) | 2 (1.4) (5K/60/10) | None | 5 W | RTD2718QD | RealTek | None |
| U49 | 12/24 Vdc | 3 (2.0) (4K/60/8) | 1 (1.4) (5K/60/8) | Y (65W) (5K/60/8) | 8 W | MT9 series | MediaTek | 1 (2.0) |
1. Power delivery via USB C requires 24 Vdc power supply
2. Host computer’s GPU must support 5K resolution to obtain 5K on the display (every Apple silicon Mac is capable of driving at least one 5K display). 2018 and earlier Macs with DP 1.2 only support 4K (1080p HiDPI), except R9A18 (see Note 4).
3. USB C connection will provide 5K resolution using a single cable, but you must ensure you have a proper cable (search for “8K cable” in this thread for additional info)
4. R9A18 boards only achieve 10 bit color depth via DisplayPort requires using two DP cables (see post #1409 for one potential solution). Single DP cable gives 8 bit color depth.
5. A 30 Hz refresh rate is generally not recommended due to choppiness of items in motion on the display (e.g., viewing videos)
6. HDMI 2.0 can't achieve 60 Hz refresh rate at 5K resolution. The JRY--AA1 board appears to be limited to 30 Hz for 5K resolution over HDMI 2.0. HDMI 2.1 boards can achieve 5K, using compression technology (e.g., Display Stream Compression, or DSC) and requires proper HDMI 2.1 cables.
7. All the boards will support higher refresh rates at lower resolutions (i.e., 4K or less). The table is a comparison of board performance at 5K resolution only.
8. The details in the table reflect performance/capabilities when using MacOS. Windows or other operating systems may yield different results.
9. Although some boards have shown the ability to use either 12Vdc or 24Vdc inputs, best results appear to come from using 24Vdc power supplies for those boards. There are more reported issues of strange behavior from those using 12Vdc inputs.
Other Considerations
1. Complexity of your conversion – what are your objectives?
a. Are you only interested in the display functionality and nothing else? This is the least complex and most straightforward conversion as it involves removing everything from the iMac and only installing the necessary components to support the display functionality.
b. Do you also want to re-use some of the existing functionality of the iMac?
(1) It is possible – there are many examples of conversions where many of the existing iMac components were re-used (e.g., speakers, camera, microphone, power supply unit, fans, USB cutouts on the back, etc.).
(2) However, each of these will increase the complexity of the conversion and come with their own challenges.
(3) Reviewing the numerous posts about all these is highly recommended to understand what will be required and the skills and tools involved for success.
c. As more components get added, cooling for the board and LCD panel may become necessary. As stated in the Notes beneath the table, this is especially true if the USB-C port will be used to deliver power to any item connected to it (e.g., a MacBook).
2. Audio – Each board includes audio amplifiers if you desire to re-use the iMac speakers. For internal computer speakers, they are very capable and high quality with separate leads for the tweeters and woofers. However, this also necessitates using some form of crossovers from the driver board in order to split out the treble and bass signals appropriately for the tweeter and woofer. There are two general methods to do this:
a. Use dedicated crossover boards between the display board and the speakers to separate the low and high range audio frequencies so the appropriate signal goes to the tweeters and woofers of the iMac speakers. Recommend obtaining crossovers that have some means of adjustability (e.g., jumpers) to help you attain the best overall sound to suit your preferences.
b. Use capacitors and inductors soldered in-line with the speaker wires
NOTES:a. The iMac speakers have a 4 ohm impedance – you need to ensure your crossovers will match this impedance value.
b. Ensure the physical size of the crossovers you select will allow them to be mounted in your desired location – components on some boards are tall and will limit your mounting location options.
c. The speaker casings are LARGE and take up valuable space inside the iMac case.
3. Power supply options
a. Purchase a “power brick” (e.g., laptop power supply) with the correct size connector for the board.
(1) This option is the simplest as it does NOT require any wiring modifications.
(2) Ensure you get a power supply that delivers the correct voltage (12Vdc or 24Vdc) and current (minimum of 6A for a basic conversion, 8A+ if you plan to use the USB C port for power delivery) output for your board.
(3) You can mount the “brick” inside the iMac case or leave it external and simply have the cord come out the back of the iMac.
(4) Some of these can be of low quality – some careful research prior to a purchase is recommended.
b. Purchase a dedicated AC to DC switching power supply to mount inside the iMac case.
(1) This option requires connecting a cable from the power supply to the driver board power port.
(2) It also allows you to use the existing power socket on the back of the iMac for the power cord by splicing the wires to the AC power input connector that would normally connect to the iMac’s original PSU.
(3) Many options are available (e.g., the MeanWell LRS-200 or LRS-350 series, approx. $35 on Amazon) – just ensure you purchase one that delivers the proper voltage for your board (12Vdc or 24Vdc) and at least 6A (8A+ if you are planning to use the USB C port for power delivery).
(4) These will generally be of higher quality and power than the “power brick” options.
(5) This will take up a large amount of internal space in the iMac case.
c. Re-use the iMac PSU.
(1) This option requires modification of the iMac PSU output connector wiring to splice adapt it to the power connector on the board.
(2) iMac PSUs are generally in the 300W range and output 12Vdc.
(3) Some boards can use this 12Vdc output directly. Others require 24Vdc. See the table for info.
(4) You can use the 12Vdc iMac PSU with a 24Vdc board by purchasing a 12Vdc to 24Vdc step up converter (approx. $20 on Amazon) – just ensure you purchase a converter rated for 10A (240W) output.
(5) This option also allows you to use the existing power socket on the back of the iMac for the power cord.
4. Depending on your use case, you may want to also purchase a constant current board for additional brightness – for example using the display in a bright, sunlit room.
a. Mykola’s site (see below) also recommends the constant current board “for panels supporting DCI P3 Colour” - this generally means any panel from 2017 or later iMacs.
b. The most recommended board is the DZ-LP0818 and is approx. $30 on eBay or AliExpress.
c. However, most conversions work well without the need for this board.
5. Noise considerations
a. Some users who have re-used the iMac PSU report that it produces an audible noise after the conversion (due to the switching functions of the AC to DC conversion). In most cases, the noise likely dissipates once the LCD panel is fully re-installed, but there have been some who reported it was still audible.
b. Many have reported the R1811 fan noise is disturbing.
(1) Some have elected to remove the fan entirely and run it without one – this MIGHT be acceptable as long as the board isn’t driving anything else, such as providing power delivery over the USB-C port.
(2) If you elect to remove the fan, it would be a good idea to use a method by which you can monitor the board temps to ensure you don’t overheat it.
(3) If removing the fan, it would also be a good idea to provide some means of exhaust ventilation of the iMac case (e.g., place an exhaust fan over the existing case vents in the back of the iMac).
(4) Another option is to reduce the fan speed by splicing a 150 ohm resistor into its power cable.
c. Others who have used the R1811 have replaced the stock fan with a different, quieter model – a Noctua fan is the most common. Additionally, some means of temperature sensing to support automatic control of the fan speed is recommended.
6. Care in disassembly of the iMac is required, especially during removal of the display panel. The glass is permanently attached to the panel. The iFixit site has excellent step by step instructions (ifixit link #1 and ifixit link #2) and there are also many YouTube videos showing the process. Do not poke sharp metal blades too far, as irreversible damage can be done to the internal screen electronics.
7. Some boards sold on AliExpress may be re-used/returned boards and it is sometimes hard to discern this from the website descriptions. Be sure to read each site closely and ask the retailer about it if it is important to you to get an unused board.
Key posts from the “DIY 5k Monitor - success 
” thread in MacRumors forums
- Post 1409 (R9A18 project by @Kaeslin)- Too many great posts by @PaulD-UK to count. Here are a few:
+ 1822 (General board info…)
+ 1602 (Lots of great overall advice…)
+ 489 (PaulD’s R1811 build)
- Many from @Aiwi, the most comprehensive is 822 (R1811 Project)
- Posts 410 & 411 (Power Button)
- Post 490 (T18 Project by @pSpitzner)
- Post 180 (R1811 Project by @Gold240sx)
- Post 414 (R1811 Project by @LeMelleKH2)
- Post 512 (R1811 Project by @kevinherring)
- Post 2681 (JRY-SA1 project by @SubDriver
Other Useful Websites
Aiwi Github page - https://github.com/aiwipro/5K-iMac-Studio-Display-Stock-Look
Mykola’s guide (March 2022) - https://khronokernel.com/macos/2022/03/01/5K-MONITOR.html
“Converting a 5K iMac into an External 5K Display” (April 2023) article - https://ohmypizza.com/2023/04/converting-a-5k-imac-into-an-external-5k-display
A February 2023 blog post - https://mschmitt.org/blog/convert-5k-27-imac-external-display-usb-c/
Driver Board Manufacturer Datasheets
R1811 - http://chiyakeji.com/content/?635.html. Also another Datasheet (direct MR PDF download link).
R9A18 - http://chiyakeji.com/content/?619.html
Chipset Comparison – RealTek vs MediaTek
Although I have not found anything on the internet specifically comparing the RealTek and MediaTek chips on these boards, there are some general comparisons about the products the companies produce.
A Google search yields, “When comparing MediaTek and Realtek performance, MediaTek generally offers slightly better overall performance in terms of stability and power efficiency, while Realtek might sometimes edge out with slightly faster speeds in specific scenarios, but may consume more power; both companies produce comparable chips depending on the specific model, so the best choice depends on your priorities for speed, power usage, and stability in your application.”
This seems to be consistent with the fact the top end RealTek board (R1811) includes a cooling fan for the chip whereas the top end MediaTek board does not. However, this is far from a definitive statement – YMMV!
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Original 07 Sep 2020 post from fiatlux below - many thanks to him for starting this thread
My "latest Macs" are a heavily upgraded 2009 Mac Pro (6c CPU, M.2 SSD, USB 3, RX580...) and more recently a 12c 2013 Mac Pro with an eGPU (Vega 56) - both machines with more than enough CPU power, GPU power and RAM for my needs, but I long aspired to upgrade to a nice 5k monitor to replace my aging 30" WQHD monitor which only took dual-link DVI inputs (requiring clunky and expensive adapter on the MP tube).
The LG 5k Ultrafine monitors are relatively pricey and limited to TB3 (and USB-C) inputs so, no really an option for my equipment.
Dell, HP and Philips all used to offer 5k displays which took two DP 1.2 inputs to run at 5k, but they were all quickly discontinued and don't have the best reliability reputation (does the latter explain the former?).
The last option was Iiyama's 5k which appeared to share the same LG Display panel as the iMac and LG monitors and supported 5k with a single DP1.4 input, but with electronics limiting color to 6 bit+FRC and with poor color accuracy reviews. It has recently been EOL'd.
I was about to give up when I started reading reports on DIY 5k monitors made from spare parts sourced from the Internet. I was intrigued and gave it a go. I should warn you that this is a risky enterprise and that you need a bit a faith (you need to source parts from questionable sources without much if any warranty). It also won't be a dirt cheap option - likely much cheaper than a new LG monitor, but still not dirt cheap.
Here is what you need as a minimum:
- A 5k panel - there are only two commonly available such panels: the LG Display LM270QQ1 (the one used in 5k iMac) and LM270QQ2 (used in LG Ultrafines). Essentially the same panel in a slightly different delivery - the iMac version coming glued to a shiny glass front the exact same shape as the iMac screen, the other being a plain rectangular panel (semi-matt from the look of the photos).
- A 5k driving board - again there seems to be essentially two versions of such board: the R9A18 board which has 2 HDMI 2.0 and 2 DP 1.2 inputs (requiring two DP 1.2 cables to run at 5k/60Hz), and the more expensive R1811 board which as 2 HDMI 2.0, 2 DP 1.4 (one being enough for 5k/60Hz) and 1 USB-C input (with 65W PD). Both boards come with all the necessary panel cables and power supply, but you will have to specify which panel to match.
Connecting the two isn't difficult (you have to be careful with those flat cables and thin connectors) and is enough to have a working 5K monitor but, without a proper enclosure, the screen isn't terribly rigid and the whole setup a mess with exposed electronics.
From there you have plenty of options I guess, depending on you DIY skills, but I elected to go for a nice and tidy look, and an option not requiring too much messing around with tools. Having bought an iMac panel, the easiest is to purchase an empty 27" iMac housing - the A1419 version for which the LM270QQ1 is designed to be the "drop-in" replacement screen. The housing is large enough to host the driver board (and even the power adapter if you want). You will have to make sure the display and power cables are correctly connected and routed to the outside (most likely through the memory access panel) before you attach the screen with those pesky sticky strips.
Sourcing a new 27" iMac housing spare part is probably not going to be easy, or affordable, but used parts can often be found on eBay - in various conditions but much cheaper. Note that most often than not the housing will come without a stand, which means another challenge to address.
I wanted to be able to control height and tilt of the monitor anyway, so I pursued the VESA mount option. As you may know, the A1419 does not offer any official solution to install a VESA mount if that option was not selected at purchase time, but it turns out that you can easily remove the original stand hinge mechanism (at least when you have an empty housing), use a A1312 stand hinge mechanism instead and then install the Apple VESA kit which was designed for the older 24"and 27" iMacs and Thunderbolt displays (there are third-party options).
So, in addition to the above panel and board, here is what I needed to get a 5k monitor looking like a VESA-mounted iMac:
- An A1419 iMac empty housing
- An A1312 hinge mechanism
- An Apple VESA Mount adapter
5K/60Hz/10 bit works without any problem on a single DP 1.4 cable with the RX580 or Vega 56, the 4K/30Hz/8 bit over HDMI looks surprisingly nice and crisp (150% size in Windows, similar scaling in macOS), not tested USB-C yet. Colors look very nice, the control board on-screen menu offers the options of native/sRGB/AdobeRGB/P3 color spaces, but I have yet to measure and profile the monitor.
Do not hesitate to ask any question!
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