DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[T-Bone90]

Hello everyone,

I want to get in touch with you all again and say thank you very much for your help. To each of you.
I have now sold my iMac conversion, because I didn't like some things so much afterwards.

I had written to Stonetaskin again about my defective port and I should probably get 30$ refund. But this is a total back and forth and I can't really recommend the support. You're just being held up, you don't get an answer for days, etc.
My recommendation is to order future boards from Aliexpress, because then Aliexpress is there as a contact person.

Otherwise, I am glad to have had the experience of the conversion.

 

[Xarl-li]

Hello, after returning from a mini-vacation, I left my mac mini on standby for 10 days, my 21:9 Samsung monitor and the imac Cinema Display experiment, the interior remains at 28º and the room at 25º.

Through one of the USB holes I inserted two probes, one near the pwm controller and another on top of the JRY cpu heatsink. The fan is always on initially at 20%, the noise is barely perceptible, I could sleep in that room, I never turn off the monitor/equipment, only the monitors remain suspended after the screen saver.

I am very happy with the result, I still do not have the monitor sealed, I want to add the camera and microphone module, I want it to be my imac cinema display

Something that is not discussed much and I think it is necessary. When removing the motherboard and the power supply, we subtract a little less than 1.5kg and the adjustment spring for orientation needs that weight. After studying different options, I decided to add part of that subtracted weight. For me the easiest solution was to buy two 0.5kg gym weights

And since I didn't want them to move, I made some supports to adjust them to the original sponsons of the imac cabinet, this weekend I will upload them to thingiverse in case anyone is interested to print stl files.

 

[maxer]

Thankfully I was able to get the desired firmware file from my vendor and all looks good!

Hi citivolus, how are you? Not sure if you can do me a favor. I am now using R1811 V4 driver board to setup my 5K display. However the firmware on this driver board needs to be updated. I noticed that you have upgraded the firmware. Would you be able to share with me the firmware? Thank you so much!

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/page-12

 

[PaulD-UK]

@maxer Hi what’s the problem with your firmware, which version do you have?

Since page 12 of this thread the firmware has been revised.
It would have been V03 or maybe V04 then.

This website supplies the current version, in two variants:

DIY 5K universal R1811 V.4 Driver Board USB-C Freesync EDP DP1.4 Comp

For creating a good consumer experience, please confirm your LCD/LED Screen part number before ordering. If you're a wholesale/distributor in your country please contact us for a better price and the best logistic options...

stonetaskin.com

 

[Kaeslin]

I have now sold my iMac conversion, because I didn't like some things so much afterwards.
I had written to Stonetaskin again about my defective port and I should probably get 30$ refund. But this is a total back and forth and I can't really recommend the support. You're just being held up, you don't get an answer for days, etc. My recommendation is to order future boards from Aliexpress, ...

This observation does not agree with my experience. StoneTaskin answered all my questions with competence and in due time. I never had to ask for a refund, though.

This brings me to a more general advice. Do not overload your first project, unless you are proficient with electronics, soldering, measuring, etc. Thanks to the existing driver boards, it is fairly easy to turn an old iMac into a superb 5K monitor. Trying to compete with Apple's Studio Display is a totally different story. Driving the built-in speakers, installing a webcam, changing the power supply, elegantly hiding buttons in existing case openings, devising elaborate cooling schemes and powering a laptop over the USB-C cable each add to the complexity of a project, make it more demanding to build and more prone to fail. So, unless challenging projects are your very purpose in life, keep your design simple, straight.

 

[tangjunhao]

the new board，10bits，HDMI2.1，DP1.4，type-c

 

[PaulD-UK]

the new board，10bits，HDMI2.1，DP1.4，type-cView attachment 2452034View attachment 2452029View attachment 2452030View attachment 2452032

@tangjunhao
Thank you for confirming that the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 (the one with USB-C) can do 5K/60Hz RGB 10bit through HDMI 2.1.
Using Windows and nVidia drivers, which possibly give more control than MacOS.

This info was previously unclear in some of the sales information.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Xarl-li " When removing the motherboard and the power supply, we subtract a little less than 1.5kg and the adjustment spring for orientation needs that weight."

The alternative, as used by others, but not me, is to relieve the tension on the hinge spring by adjusting the bolts that hold the springs to the hinge.

However these bolts are quite short, and longer bolts would make this loosening safer.
Unfortunately Apple has used special M3 bolts which are different to any others used inside the iMac.

I think they are called M3 'fine thread', with 0.35mm thread pitch instead of the usual 0.5mm pitch.
That is a guess, but the thread pitch is definitely finer than regular M3 bolts.

This pic shows the standard hinge (bolts centre) and a modified one where the hinge plastic washers had broken and been fixed.
The modified one is easier to control the loosening to ease the tension.

 

[tangjunhao]

how to use original PSU？

 

[tangjunhao]

Hello, after returning from a mini-vacation, I left my mac mini on standby for 10 days, my 21:9 Samsung monitor and the imac Cinema Display experiment, the interior remains at 28º and the room at 25º.

Through one of the USB holes I inserted two probes, one near the pwm controller and another on top of the JRY cpu heatsink. The fan is always on initially at 20%, the noise is barely perceptible, I could sleep in that room, I never turn off the monitor/equipment, only the monitors remain suspended after the screen saver.

I am very happy with the result, I still do not have the monitor sealed, I want to add the camera and microphone module, I want it to be my imac cinema display

Something that is not discussed much and I think it is necessary. When removing the motherboard and the power supply, we subtract a little less than 1.5kg and the adjustment spring for orientation needs that weight. After studying different options, I decided to add part of that subtracted weight. For me the easiest solution was to buy two 0.5kg gym weights

And since I didn't want them to move, I made some supports to adjust them to the original sponsons of the imac cabinet, this weekend I will upload them to thingiverse in case anyone is interested to print stl files.

I order new board，JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1，this is size，could you Modify your 3D drawing？thank you

 

[PaulD-UK]

@tangjunhao "how to use original PSU"

We don't know whether the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 runs with 12v not 24v.
Other boards with a USB-C connection that supports PD laptop powering need 24v to do this.

The JRY--FA1 (and -AA1) does run on 12v, and we think the JRY--SA1 can also do this.

The iMac PSU outputs 12v but it is easy to connect it.
Either solder two wires to the + and – wires coming from the PSU, the top six pins are – and the bottom six are +.
Or use a proper connector like this:

12PIN 20AWG 30CM Extension Cable Micro-Fit 3.0 43025 Molex 3.0 2x6pin 430201200 Molex 3.0 2*6pin 12p 12 Circuits wire harness - AliExpress 13

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Here is a post from @Kaeslin earlier in this thread that has a picture (using a different board).

The iMac PSU is always on when mains power is connected, the on/off switch on the back of the iMac case doesn't turn it off.
Be careful not to touch any part of the PSU when it is powered, or or after it is switched off, as it will still have very high voltages for quite a long time.

 

[celebrityratowner]

Hello, I've been looking into converting my 2017 imac to a 5k display and upgrading to the new m4 mini. Since reading through this thread I've discovered that the board I've purchased (JRY-W9RQUHD-AA1) is 8 bit but I believe my display is capable of 10. Will this be a discernible difference from how my monitor looks now? Should I consider a better board? Thanks for your help.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@celebrityratowner
Only if you are using software that is running at 10 bit will you see a difference.
For general use, watching videos, browsing the web, viewing web-based content, then all that will be compressed to 8 bit or less anyway, because that's how web bandwidth is managed.

If you originate graphics on you computer or import raw or uncompressed photographic images, then with the right software, you can have an end-to-end 10 bit signal path, and, with a 10 bit capable screen, can view the output.

Because 99.99% of people use Safari or another browser to judge the quality of their monitor, then 8 bits is good enough....

Apple's only native 10 bit monitor is the Pro Display XDR.
But your 2017 iMac screen panel is Apple-certified to 'display' 10 bits, if you use the DCI-P3, or similar, 10 bit colour space. But it does this with temporal dithering (called FRC) where the screen rapidly shows two 8 bit colours to produce the perceived effect of 10 bits of colour in the brain.

All the various DIY conversion boards depend on their firmware resolve their output bit depth.
The various firmwares in use are part of what makes each board cost what it does - they all appear to use the same video controller chip.
Buying a more expensive board will get you a 10 bit signal chain, but we don't have definitive analysis as to what each different board can actually achieve. AFAIK.

I have only tested the R1811, and I can confirm that there is definitely a visible difference between the look of a Photoshop generated P3 image gradient at 8 bits and 10 bits on my screen, smooth at 10 bits, stepped at 8 bits.
I am also using a 2017-model screen, but from an iMac Pro.
Apple says all 27" iMacs introduced after late 2015 are P3 capable.

 

[PewQ]

Hello Everybody,

firstly I have to thank you for so many useful informations that I was convinced I could also build my own DIY display. Today my JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 arrived and it is working beautiful with a 24V 6A Power Supply and a DP 2 USB-C Cable in full resolution with 10bit (iMac Late 2015).

But to my concern it is not working with a single usb-c 2 usb-c cable to my MacBook Pro (M1 Pro). There is a short recognition sound and also the MacBook shows "Loading", but after a few seconds the Display goes into Power Save Mode. The Cable is labeled with 40Gps / 8K / 100 W PD

I don't think the USB-C Port is defective since there is a short sound, but no image.


And please bare with me, this is not my native language.

PewQ

 

[citivolus]

Hi citivolus, how are you? Not sure if you can do me a favor. I am now using R1811 V4 driver board to setup my 5K display. However the firmware on this driver board needs to be updated. I noticed that you have upgraded the firmware. Would you be able to share with me the firmware? Thank you so much!

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/diy-5k-monitor-success.2253100/page-12

Hi, what version of the firmware are you currently running? I’m happy to share what I have.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@PewQ
Try another cable.
Cables sometimes stop working, or only the video part...

 

[Xarl-li]

I order new board，JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1，this is size，could you Modify your 3D drawing？thank yo

I order new board，JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1，this is size，could you Modify your 3D drawing？thank you

Hello, I would need a photo of the board in terms of the soldering, on my JRY a connector stuck out, and in my design I made the hole to lower the height of the motherboard.

Leaving a few tenths of space, and following those measurements, I have adapted it to the same supports that I have used, this plate is a little larger.


You JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 support, but I need to know if there is a connector underneath or just solders, could you upload a photo?

Keep in mind that I am not an engineer, it has only been a year since I started using Fusion 360 to draw my needs to print them.

 

[tangjunhao]

Hello, I would need a photo of the board in terms of the soldering, on my JRY a connector stuck out, and in my design I made the hole to lower the height of the motherboard.

View attachment 2453293


Leaving a few tenths of space, and following those measurements, I have adapted it to the same supports that I have used, this plate is a little larger.


You JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 support, but I need to know if there is a connector underneath or just solders, could you upload a photo?

Keep in mind that I am not an engineer, it has only been a year since I started using Fusion 360 to draw my needs to print them.

View attachment 2453296

Thank you very much，the master

 

[RS172]

Hey everybody
Im completely new here - I just got my first ever Macbook, a nice Silver M4 MBP. I've been researching non-stop to try and find a nice screen for a dual-monitor setup. What a deep rabbithole i got myself into... Options in europe are limited to Samsung Viewfinity and the Studio Display, both which are well beyond my budget... This is why i'm here now. I managed to source 2 27" late 2015 imacs (will be picked up in the forecoming weekend). Where do I go from here? I've read countless pages already, but its hard to just "drop-in" to a thread like this - Its super long, some of the information is waaaaay to technical for me, and it seems like updates are coming at a steady pace...
Can anybody point me in the right direction of where i need to start? Is there a complete page of what to do, and what to consider?
Ideally I would need help picking out the right board and accessories, but I dont mind gathering information on my own.
I also dont mind the more technical solutions, with soldering and such.

I guess that my ideal setup would be:
5k@60hz, 10 bit, with one cable for each monitor (is that possible?)
Original Power button functioning
No speakers, microphone or webcam


To be honest, any help would be much appreciated atm

 

[PaulD-UK]

I know it's a difficult thread to take in...
Here's my most recent list of available DIY boards available,

If you google the board names you should see what each one offers, then search this thread for people who have used the one you are interested in.

For use with a MBP any DisplayPort or USB-C input is best, using a USB-C to DP cable or USB-C-to USB-C, and gives 10 bit RGB.
HDMI is problematic with 10 bit RGB.

 

[RS172]

I know it's a difficult thread to take in...
Here's my most recent list of available DIY boards available,

If you google the board names you should see what each one offers, then search this thread for people who have used the one you are interested in.

For use with a MBP any DisplayPort or USB-C input is best, using a USB-C to DP cable or USB-C-to USB-C, and gives 10 bit RGB.
HDMI is problematic with 10 bit RGB.

That is really helpful - Thank you very much.


Is there a general consensus on which board/brand to choose? For example, the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 and the Haijing Cool T18 seems super similar at a glance.

 

[Xarl-li]

@tangjunhao "how to use original PSU"

We don't know whether the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 runs with 12v not 24v.
Other boards with a USB-C connection that supports PD laptop powering need 24v to do this.

The JRY--FA1 (and -AA1) does run on 12v, and we think the JRY--SA1 can also do this.

The iMac PSU outputs 12v but it is easy to connect it.
Either solder two wires to the + and – wires coming from the PSU, the top six pins are – and the bottom six are +.
Or use a proper connector like this:

12PIN 20AWG 30CM Extension Cable Micro-Fit 3.0 43025 Molex 3.0 2x6pin 430201200 Molex 3.0 2*6pin 12p 12 Circuits wire harness - AliExpress 13

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

Here is a post from @Kaeslin earlier in this thread that has a picture (using a different board).

The iMac PSU is always on when mains power is connected, the on/off switch on the back of the iMac case doesn't turn it off.
Be careful not to touch any part of the PSU when it is powered, or or after it is switched off, as it will still have very high voltages for quite a long time.

Paul The simplest method to find out if it can go to 24v is to first check the voltage of the input capacitors if they are 16...25v...you already rule out the 24v.

The second method, power the board with a variable power supply, starting at 12v you will have a consumption of approximately 3Amps. When the voltage increases, the intensity will decrease, it is not necessary to increase it suddenly, just increase it to 12 to 15...16v and the change will be observed, and obviously as it increases progressively, the intensity will decrease (Because the board will use PWM/ /StepUP//Down to power everything. Otherwise...just going up from 12 to 15v will increase the consumption.

I suspect that if the board incorporates USB_C, it is almost 90% certain that it can and should work at 24v.

One of the reasons why I decided to power with 24v is to use power cables with a smaller section, the connector and cable will offer less heat losses. I have no intention of connecting any macbook to my iMaCinemaDisplay.

 

[Xarl-li]

Thank you very much，the master
View attachment 2453331

Well apart from the smd surface components, i don't anything that could bother me, except for the plastic heatsink supports.

It would be great if you could provide me with these distances from where i indicate, to the center of the hole, please don't make a mistake with the direction vs the diagram, don't measure in the opposite direction.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@RS172 ”…the JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 and the Haijing Cool T18 seems super similar at a glance.”

The T18 has been ‘sold out’ recently so it may not be available.
The SA1 is quite recent so is in effect its replacement.
Only a few people have used it in this thread so there is not much info, but it seems to work fine.

 

[Xarl-li]

@Aiwi tell me, did you change anything on the iMac case?
I've ground so far, I can't do much more. Nevertheless, the camera at the back still looks relatively far out. And when I screw on the original Facetime holder, it's pretty much under pressure.
How did you go there? It seems to be the same camera.
View attachment 2410574View attachment 2410575View attachment 2410573
View attachment 2410581View attachment 2410582

Before installing the camera by chance... did you take measurements of that support? The thing is... I can't find mine, if you had them I would make the support in 3D to print, otherwise, I will unseal/ disassemble the pannel and I will have to do reverse engineering.