DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[zalle]

Hi guys, 👋

I just mounted one of those JRY-W9CUHD - AA1 - 5K drive boards on my 2015 27" iMac.

I put a laptop charger as power source (5Ah I believe), and It is working.

I purchased a sound kit (to connect original speakers) and a small camera from AliExpress as well, but neither of them work. The board is only connected to my M4 mini by HDMI.

Am I doing anything wrong?

Also, is there anything else I should do to keep it reliable?
Thanks

 

[PaulD-UK]

@zalle
You need to connect the JRY--AA1 using USB-C to the Mac mini for the USB-A ports on the board to be active if that is how you are connecting your web cam.

If your AA1 is selected as the active speaker output on the Mac, and the volume is 100% in the OSD, and you get no sound output try toggling the mute key on the Mac keyboard. It may be the board is working in reverse...
To control the volume level using the Mac you need to use an app called eqMac, the free version is OK.

 

[zalle]

Thanks Paul! I am on it.

Can I use USB-A on a hub to power the USB-C on the board? Or do I need USB-C to USB-C?

 

[PaulD-UK]

If you don't want to drive the video on your AA1 you can do that (using HDMI or with better image quality using the DP input, connecting to the mini with a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K adapter cable).
But you must connect the USB-B input port on the AA1 to a USB-C output on the M4 mini to connect to the webcam.
So two connections to the monitor, 1. video, and 2. USB-B.

 

[zalle]

Well, you sure know a lot about this stuff.

I managed to connect the speakers, using the app, and it's fine. Thanks for that.

About HDMI vs DP. I'm getting 4K @60Hz, not 5K, but I use it at 2k or max 2.5k. I don't use the extra resolution, because everything gets too small. Would there be any difference using DP?

The camera does not work! It works if I connect it to a hub, that I use connected to the mini. The usb-A (2 of them) ports on the AA1 are working, the USB-C port is working. There is no USB-B port.
I connect the USB-C on the AA1 to a USB-C port on the mini, connect the camera to a USB-A port, and the camera is unavailable.

 

[PaulD-UK]

@zalle If you connect with DP (or USB-C) you will get 5K/60, but it will appear to be 'Retina" 2560x1440p on screen, which gives 4 pixels for every 1440p pixel, so text and graphics are at a readable size, but will appear much sharper.

Apple runs all it's screen this way - retina - as it looks much better.

This picture shows the USB-B input port that you need to connect to the Mac if you aren't using the USB-C port to connect. This needs a USB 2 USB-B cable to connect to it, USB 3 USB-B plugs don't fit.
You connect your webcam output to one of the other USB-A ports.

"I connect the USB-C on the AA1 to a USB-C port on the mini, connect the camera to a USB-A port, and the camera is unavailable."

You would have to be using a USB 2 cable (like the Apple USB-C charging only cables - not USB 3 (or TB) data/video) for this to work.
If it's not working this way it is because the cable isn't right.

 

[zalle]

Ok ok... One of those old printer cables. I thought it was network.

Well, thinking about it, might as well connect the camera to a usb-A port on the hub...

Last question: If I connect the camera directly to the USB-C on the AA1 with a USB-A to USB-C converter, will it work?

Thanks so much for your help.

 

[PaulD-UK]

The problem is that the web cam is USB 2, and the USB 2 wires in a USB-C cable are different to the USB 3 wires.

So if you use a USB-C cable with the proper USB 2 wires in it, everything should work.

But if you use adapters and cables that are designed only for USB3 data connection, the cable or adapter may not have the USB 2 wires in it, so it won't work. They SHOULD have USB 2 wires, but there is no way of knowing without testing them...

On the AA1 board the USB 2 wires from the USB-C (video) input plug should connect to the USB-B and USB-A socket wires. They are all connected to an internal USB 2 hub on the AA1 board.

The USB-B port on the AA1 is designed to be the input port of the hub, to connect to the computer.
But the USB-C port's USB 2 wires also work as the one connected to the computer...

 

[zalle]

Is there a guide, where I can research a bit more? Instead of asking you everything?

Like how to add a microphone, etc.

Thanks

 

[PaulD-UK]

This thread has reports from people doing everything.
You can try searching using the keyword you are interested in...

The problem with adding a microphone in the monitor is that it can easily pick up extraneous noise.
Apple add a lot of processing power to deal with this which is only available in their own hardware...

Which is why I think an iPhone using Continuity Camera gives the best web cam video and microphone sound.

 

[paulpijnenborg]

, which aren't as good as a proper audio polypropylene capacitor.

The circuit for the crossover is really simple.
C1 is a 10 microFarad audio capacitor, and L1 is a 0.15 milliHenry air-cored inductor:

View attachment 2488295

@PaulD-UK or other more specialist people

My build is almost done, made some little stupid mistakes but well we get there.
However there was a misunderstanding with Stonetaskin regarding what I wanted/ordered. They were a good helping hand with reducing the import taxes, so I will not complain. So they sent the board but not the crossovers.
It takes a good 3-4 weeks to get the goods here and I cannot find cheap and small crossovers here.

So, @ Paul and co. You say that the crossover is "simple" and I may find the parts here yes.
I googled the parts in this diagram and I think I have found them.
However, I have no idea how these components work and if they will be the same also.

Can one of you send me a name branded links so I can look if they have them? thank you.

I still prefer plug and play but a bit of DIY is not feared.

If they send me to Mouser here, I will order complete crossovers as the cost of sending by mouser will be way to high for the parts.

Thanks

 

[PaulD-UK]

The audio capacitors (two needed, one each side) must be audio 'bipolar' capacitors, with NO + or – markings.
6 to 10 microfarad will be OK.
Cheaper may be electrolytic, better are 'film' type.

Any audio inductor (coil) of 0.15 miliHenries will be OK, either iron/ferrite cored, or better, air cored.
Any supplier selling parts for speaker systems for live events should sell both capacitors and inductors.

If you want to avoid soldering the wires to the iMac speakers you can use JST ZH 1.5mm 6 pin male/female connector wire cables.
Just push the socket prongs into the speaker plugs, then connect the wires to the crossover components.
Don't connect to the two inner wires, as they are not connected.

Connect the audio output from the video board to the crossover input using a JST PH 2mm 4 pin plug with wires attached.

 

[paulpijnenborg]

Thanks. The place where I buy (or try to buy) is specialized in sound equipment. so let us hope. maybe they can make something.

regarding the I thought I had a far stock of connectors but I am totally short of the ones I need.

 

[zalle]

If you don't want to drive the video on your AA1 you can do that (using HDMI or with better image quality using the DP input, connecting to the mini with a USB-C to DP 1.4 8K adapter cable).
But you must connect the USB-B input port on the AA1 to a USB-C output on the M4 mini to connect to the webcam.
So two connections to the monitor, 1. video, and 2. USB-B.

Hi again,

I found a DP cable. Bought the 1.4, 8k, usb-c on one side, DP on the other. Connected it, and it does not work.

I plugged in both the DP and the HDMI. It starts in HDMI. I use the buttons to select DP, and the monitor turns off. Turns on again in HDMI mode after 10 seconds...

Also, do you think the power supply should be inside or outside? I would prefer inside, but extra heat is my concern.

 

[kevinherring]

At last, I am able to write up my successful 4k 21.5" conversion.

Aims of this conversion were:
1. Cheap and simple
2. Using an existing Macbook Air USB-C PSU (61W official or 89w clone).
3. Displayport cable
4. Single cable use, with charging (although I'm not bothered about it being too quick).

Parts used:
2015 iMac - £35 (£50 less £15 for the CPU)
R9153 v5 display board - £53
Adafruit USB-PD 5A/100w - £10 (this has dip switches to select how many volts it asks for from the PSU)
12v Buck Converter - £7
USB-C charging Module - £2
USB-C to DisplayPort + charging cable - £18
USB-C Extension cable - £8

Total cost including adhesive - £150.

This build would be a whole lot simpler if the display board offered USB-C charging, but it doesn't, so we have to make a hacky solution to achieve the same. Adafruit has a useful tutorial on using USB-C for power here, but it is important to note that regardless of voltage, the maximum current USB-C PD can provide is 5 amps. So my 61w PSU is about 3 amps and my 89w one is 4.35 amps)

In my set up the Adafruit USB-C board tells the PSU to supply 20v. The buck converter steps this down to 12v for use on the display board. The Adafruit board also supplies this 20v supply into the charging module which injects it into the DisplayPort cable to supply the laptop. I guess that this supplies about 12v to the laptop for charging as there are always losses here. At full brightness the display uses about 50-60w. When using my official Apple PSU this leaves just enough to power the laptop but not charge it simultaneously. Also, any kind of stress on the laptop and it stops charging and then the screen starts power cycling. You would think using my 89w clone PSU would be better but that isn't so (anything above 70w power draw and it s**ts the bed). Given this I have decided to order a 96w Apple charger as I will not be beaten!

My challenges with this build were as follows:
1. First board had non-working DisplayPorts. This meant I tried using the HDMI ports but this is basically limited to a non-native resolution as discussed at lengths in my previous posts.
2. Originally I tried selecting 12v on the Adafruit board, thinking it would very slowly charge the laptop. However, I learned 2 things. First 12v is optional on the PD spec, so not all PSUs provide it, instead dropping down to 9v. Secondly there just aren't enough amps to go around at this low voltage, hence the addition of the buck converter. I suspect that this was also causing my screen to be less bright than expected.

Overall this build was a bit of a pain. I do like the 4K/21.5" resolution and form factor and it's definitely cheaper than the 27" one, but I think I overcomplicated it by using USB-C PD as the power supply and one-cable charging.

Edited: to correct some of the wattages based on more tests and to say I have ordered a new 96w charger.

 

[paulpijnenborg]

The audio capacitors (two needed, one each side) must be audio 'bipolar' capacitors, with NO + or – markings.
6 to 10 microfarad will be OK.
Cheaper may be electrolytic, better are 'film' type.

Any audio inductor (coil) of 0.15 miliHenries will be OK, either iron/ferrite cored, or better, air cored.
Any supplier selling parts for speaker systems for live events should sell both capacitors and inductors.

If you want to avoid soldering the wires to the iMac speakers you can use JST ZH 1.5mm 6 pin male/female connector wire cables.
Just push the socket prongs into the speaker plugs, then connect the wires to the crossover components.
Don't connect to the two inner wires, as they are not connected.

Connect the audio output from the video board to the using a JST PH 2mm 4 pin plug with wires attached.

​

Well Paul, I drove and saw the whole city (again) and no result. Local Internet stores also do not bring me any good info.
I am not going to wast more time try to find things in this 5th biggest country (having it all, hahahaha).

So, I want to go for the one StoneTaskin is offering....-> but there is discussion on how good they are!

I just want (good) sound for watching a YouTube education video, meetings or some background music. nothing super special.

 

[lostPod]

Holy craaaapp. You’ve done a lot of work on this ! Cheers !

 

[paulpijnenborg]

Hi, all

I just wanted to give you a half-time update.

BUT let me say this first, AND it is said already various times:

KEEP IT SIMPLE. Set a goal of what you want! And of what you are capeble of.
if it is just a display that you want -> just do that.

In my case; I am very handy and have basic understanding electricity/PC building. That means; I can put parts together but don’t ask me how to build parts (however I can copy).

After a lot of reading, watching videos and research I had set my goals:
(if possible of course. Never opened an iMac myself)

• 5K display
• Internal PSU
• Original iMac fan
• Original speakers
• Reuse original USB ports ethernet

The parts I used are named in earlier posts so I will not repeat that.

Building/preparing:

1st problem: It is hard to find parts in this 5th biggest country they are or super expensive or need to be imported (high taxes).
After I had cleaned out the iMac case the 2nd problem was placing the USB hub(s) and USB C adaptors. This meant that the ports needed to be altered. My Dremel came in handy, but it is a slowly process. Trying, sanding trying sanding. I slipped a few times damaging the case a bit. I still don’t get it how Aiwi got it done, but I had not the space and so the adaptors came out a bit. Even so the Hub I bought had the same distances as the original USB ports I needed to make the slightly bigger so the two C ports of that hub could be reachable. I got the ethernet in place with a lot of difficulties (see remark later)
The 3rd problem arose quickly; this PSU has a Manual voltage 115/240v selector! As we have here both the voltages next to each other, I needed a solution for that; an automatic voltage PSU (could not find one that fitted) or replace the selector. YES, I had contact with an electrician regarding replacing this selector! DON’T do this if you have only one voltage system.
4th problem; I could not fix the PSU to the case rather than (metal) glueing. That would make replacing impossible. So, I decided to tear the PSU down, added heatsinks and altered the original HDD holders so that the PSU board sat below the high line. Perfect fit and the 2 side heatsinks also touched the holder for extra heat flow. The PSU fan I removed and fixed it to the case connected with a separate PWM controller.

For both fans I used a DC-DC stepdown 24v to 12v.
The PWM controller for the original fan I wanted to be in a place where I could easily alter values. So, I placed it above in the RAM opening. The sensor I fixed on the heatsink of the display board.
The other DC-DC stepdown is for extra power for the USB hubs.

ALERT!! Check and recheck polarity. I made the stupid mistake and blew up some DC-DC step-downs before I realized I had connected the wires wrong on the PSU. (reading upside down is difficult)

For the 5K display board I reused/replaced the original board holders. It was a bit hard to get it in a good place so that cables could run beside it.

SPOILER
After putting al together and doing a test …..I had NO DISPLAY signal, …. NO USB ports connection…… what the heck!?!?!? Tested the display board again with a direct cable and it worked both C and DP. ?????? Lost my mind. Disassembled all and checked connections; all good as far I could see but testing showed otherwise. So. Now cable by cable testing….. and yes found the problem… seems that if you use too many cables/adaptors the chain stops after the 3rd connection. Weird but true!
M4 mini - Tb4 cable – Tb4 90º adaptor – tb4 female/female adaptor - tb 4 cable – board = NO GOOD!
HMMMM! I had no Tb4 male/female cables, so I ordered them. Hoping taking the female/female adaptor out resolves the problem. Fingers crossed. I hope I get my C port case connection back.
Regarding the internal hub I had to replace the hub, so I had to give up the ethernet port. All that work for nothing! But I think now it was not necessary at all.



DP and HDMI cables: I will connect the DP cable to the board and send the cable trough the RAM door, rolling the cable behind the iMac case. Just as reserve (windows) connection. The HDMI unconnected, it is reachable in case of need.



What is missing is the crossovers (and amplifier). This due a misunderstanding with StoneTaskin. After rethinking I opted to add a Bluetooth amplifier and skip the connection by the display board. It makes the system more multipurpose.



Waiting time for the last parts. 4 weeks. Will test more meanwhile.



For now I am very happy with the build.