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I guess for the future 2011 MBP owners out there looking to upgrade RAM, get the 1600mhz for that extra bit of speed.

Probably a better reason to get it (vs the 1333), would have been to potentially move it to a new machine that could fully utilise the 1600 and keep the investment value...given the move to non-user-replaceable RAM that may be moot :-(
 
That depends how you want to proceed. You have a few options:

- Complete clone via Disk Utility
- Complete Migration Assistant
- Complete Time Machine restore (if you have one)
- Fresh OS X installation with partial Migration Assistant for your data.
- Fresh OS X installation with partial Time Machine restore for your data.

I'd do the clone via Disk Utility - that's the fastest and easiest.
For that, you'd connect your HDD externally and the SSD internally (or vice versa), boot into Internet Recovery or from your installation medium, open disk utility and use the "Restore" function.
I will be getting my SSD today.

So the source drive would be "Macintosh HD" and not "500GB Apple HDD etc.", correct?
I want to test out the SSD first with a fresh OS install & boot. Would I use Internet Recovery? I have Yosemite installer downloaded as well.
 
I will be getting my SSD today.

So the source drive would be "Macintosh HD" and not "500GB Apple HDD etc.", correct?
I want to test out the SSD first with a fresh OS install & boot. Would I use Internet Recovery? I have Yosemite installer downloaded as well.

If your install doesn't have any issues then I'd just clone it.

Yes your source should be Macintosh HD.

No! Don't use internet recovery, that will overwrite your existing installation but not create a new one on a different drive AND you will have to wait for the installer to download across the internet.

You will need a way to attach the SSD, normal to use an external caddy or SATA-USB adapter.

Once attached clone TO the SSD
Once cloned Option-boot and select the SSD (it won't be fast at this stage as you are limited by the USB interface.
Once you are happy that the SSD is cloned and working correctly just as your HDD, then swap the drives and boot from the SSD internally (should be FAST!)
 
If your install doesn't have any issues then I'd just clone it.

Yes your source should be Macintosh HD.

No! Don't use internet recovery, that will overwrite your existing installation but not create a new one on a different drive AND you will have to wait for the installer to download across the internet.

You will need a way to attach the SSD, normal to use an external caddy or SATA-USB adapter.

Once attached clone TO the SSD
Once cloned Option-boot and select the SSD (it won't be fast at this stage as you are limited by the USB interface.
Once you are happy that the SSD is cloned and working correctly just as your HDD, then swap the drives and boot from the SSD internally (should be FAST!)
Lol, I bought a 1TB HDD and was planning on using it's enclosure to swap it out to test the SSD but they put a warranty void sticker on one of the screws :p

Since it has FW800, I was planning on cloning my current OS drive to it. Swap the internal HDD with the SSD & install fresh OS on SSD to test first instead of cloning my 330GB worth of data.

Just trying to avoid using USB 2.0
 
Lol, I bought a 1TB HDD and was planning on using it's enclosure to swap it out to test the SSD but they put a warranty void sticker on one of the screws :p

Since it has FW800, I was planning on cloning my current OS drive to it. Swap the internal HDD with the SSD & install fresh OS on SSD to test first instead of cloning my 330GB worth of data.

Just trying to avoid using USB 2.0

So clone to and from the FW drive, the fresh install will just need more time setting up, if your install doesn't have any issues, just clone and save the setup time...I've done it many times
 
So clone to and from the FW drive, the fresh install will just need more time setting up, if your install doesn't have any issues, just clone and save the setup time...I've done it many times

- Agreed. There's no reason to waste time on doing the conventional OS X installation first if you're just going to erase it and clone anyway.
 
SSD installed and tested.
I'm seeing 485MB~ Write on blackmagic but 600+ on activity monitor and 500~ for Read, very nice.

If I want to encrypt the drive, do I use disk utility or does Samsung have it's own program?
(Didn't check the included CD)
 
SSD installed and tested.
I'm seeing 485MB~ Write on blackmagic but 600+ on activity monitor and 500~ for Read, very nice.

If I want to encrypt the drive, do I use disk utility or does Samsung have it's own program?
(Didn't check the included CD)

I dont know if samsung will have an app to encrypt (i installed a evo ssd last night too)....... in my opinion even if they do I would still use either apple filevault or add a firmware password to the machine rather than use a samsung encryption app on a boot drive anyway.
 
I dont know if samsung will have an app to encrypt (i installed a evo ssd last night too)....... in my opinion even if they do I would still use either apple filevault or add a firmware password to the machine rather than use a samsung encryption app on a boot drive anyway.
Lol just realized my stock HDD might have never been encrypted this whole time...what does the user login password protect from? :eek:

After reading around, it looks like you need BIOS access to set the hardware based encryption (AES-256) which the Macs don't really have? Magician software only for Windows?
Never seen firmware password before.

OSX has so many options to do things :mad:

Edit: I always see the word TRIM, am I suppose to enable this?
 
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No, a user account is not encryption of the hard drive. If you enable FileVault that will encrypt the HD, and you can use recovery mode to set a firmware password.

The firmware password is a password which is processed by the logic board of the machine itself rather than by software, but it will stop the ability to boot from external disks, safe mode and if you forget it it is unrecoverable.

Personally I would just stick to FileVault ;)

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A user account password just stops people accessing your account. You can get round it with a bit of know how.
 
No, a user account is not encryption of the hard drive. If you enable FileVault that will encrypt the HD, and you can use recovery mode to set a firmware password.

The firmware password is a password which is processed by the logic board of the machine itself rather than by software, but it will stop the ability to boot from external disks, safe mode and if you forget it it is unrecoverable.

Personally I would just stick to FileVault ;)

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A user account password just stops people accessing your account. You can get round it with a bit of know how.
I think I'll have to go FileVault.
What kind of speeds are you getting with it or did you encrypt it?
 
I think I'll have to go FileVault.
What kind of speeds are you getting with it or did you encrypt it?

I haven't tested it and I dont encrypt mine. Mines a dj computer so the tunes and samples are worth a lot more to me than any thief......

I havent tested speed, but startup, shutdown, and general usage is exponentially quicker.
 
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