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eMac 800Mhz -> 1.33GHz conversion
- Thread starter lbodnar
- Start date
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topgunn said:
Congrats! How do you like it so far?
I am now considering a Rev. B 17", it's only $1195 AR from Amazon right now. The Rev. B has so much extra stuff that even good used Rev. A's don't seem to offer as much value.
About the only thing that I might actually need the faster hardware is for some iMovie and iDVD. But I'm not sure how much impact it will have.
Otherwise I do really like the 17" widescreen LCD (so I'm also considering a used 17" G4 iMac (USB 2.0) as a cheaper alternative.
Fan install
Hi people
I've got a Zalman fanmate 2, and installed it (see pics)
problem is, I think I need to cut and rearrange the wires leading to and from the fanmate before it has any effect, currently the knob affects the fan speed not one bit... :confused
currently arranged like:
Mac
Red - Black - Yellow
plug
White - Red - black
fanmate
Yellow - Red - Black
plug
Red - Black - Yellow
Please could someone tell me how I should rearrange the 2nd and 3rd set of wires?
Cheers
Hi people
I've got a Zalman fanmate 2, and installed it (see pics)
problem is, I think I need to cut and rearrange the wires leading to and from the fanmate before it has any effect, currently the knob affects the fan speed not one bit... :confused
currently arranged like:
Mac
Red - Black - Yellow
plug
White - Red - black
fanmate
Yellow - Red - Black
plug
Red - Black - Yellow
Please could someone tell me how I should rearrange the 2nd and 3rd set of wires?
Cheers
Attachments
Middle School Teacher Again
Right now my Emac is still clocked at 1.32(up from 800). I have never had any problems with it. No kernal panics, no overheating:totally stable even when intensively processing video files. All this with no cooling mods whatsoever.
I gig sdram
250 gb internal drive
as well as a three hundred gig ide drive under my desk.
Anywho, I was wondering a couple of things. Has anyone been able to figure out a way to get digital video signal out of the ATI chipset. Switch Res X allows me 1600 by 1200 resolution on my flatscreen in analog, but the screen also supports dvi. I know the ati card supported digital output in all its other incaranations, but just seems to lack the connector. Did anyone figure out what that unsed plugin socket on the board was? Diagnostics? I was also wondering if software raid actually gives any performance increase as I could dump the cd rom connection and hook up another matched drive on that ide port.
Finally, though this is a little off topic. I bought 32 imac 350s for my clasroom from another corporation(we could have had them for free but that is another story) I tried to overclock one to 600 mgz but it would not boot, chime, nothing. I tested all the voltages that Apple's technician's guide gave for diagnostics and they were all spot on. When I reset the jumpers to stock, it booted up and ran just fine. Does anyone know if there are any memory timings, or voltage settings that also have to be set for this to work. A site that was mentioned earlier in the thread gave me the jumper table, but it was real skimpy on everything else. My goal is to get these all up to mac os x. Any help anyone can give me would be great. I have spent $12,000 of my own money this last year and created a classroom better than that in most universities, but I have just put 4 of my own kids thougth college so anything I can do myself I need to learn.
Also as a side note I discovered that if I format a 300 gb ide drive with my emac and disk utility an exact bootable clone of the Os, it will boot and run in the couple of Imac Special Ed. DVD g3's (400 -600) I have and maintain their full capacity. I have filled up the full capacity of these disks with video data and they run perfect and fast(7200 rpm). as compared to the little 20gb-40gb( maybe 5400 rpms) they came with. The only downside is that I cannot ever use the G-3's disk utility to fix permissions or anything of that sort or the bios tells on me and the disk is suddenly recognized only as 120 gb and fills only to that level with data. Anywho, of all the things I have blathered on about, my overclocking of g3 350's is my biggest need right now.
TY
Right now my Emac is still clocked at 1.32(up from 800). I have never had any problems with it. No kernal panics, no overheating:totally stable even when intensively processing video files. All this with no cooling mods whatsoever.
I gig sdram
250 gb internal drive
as well as a three hundred gig ide drive under my desk.
Anywho, I was wondering a couple of things. Has anyone been able to figure out a way to get digital video signal out of the ATI chipset. Switch Res X allows me 1600 by 1200 resolution on my flatscreen in analog, but the screen also supports dvi. I know the ati card supported digital output in all its other incaranations, but just seems to lack the connector. Did anyone figure out what that unsed plugin socket on the board was? Diagnostics? I was also wondering if software raid actually gives any performance increase as I could dump the cd rom connection and hook up another matched drive on that ide port.
Finally, though this is a little off topic. I bought 32 imac 350s for my clasroom from another corporation(we could have had them for free but that is another story) I tried to overclock one to 600 mgz but it would not boot, chime, nothing. I tested all the voltages that Apple's technician's guide gave for diagnostics and they were all spot on. When I reset the jumpers to stock, it booted up and ran just fine. Does anyone know if there are any memory timings, or voltage settings that also have to be set for this to work. A site that was mentioned earlier in the thread gave me the jumper table, but it was real skimpy on everything else. My goal is to get these all up to mac os x. Any help anyone can give me would be great. I have spent $12,000 of my own money this last year and created a classroom better than that in most universities, but I have just put 4 of my own kids thougth college so anything I can do myself I need to learn.
Also as a side note I discovered that if I format a 300 gb ide drive with my emac and disk utility an exact bootable clone of the Os, it will boot and run in the couple of Imac Special Ed. DVD g3's (400 -600) I have and maintain their full capacity. I have filled up the full capacity of these disks with video data and they run perfect and fast(7200 rpm). as compared to the little 20gb-40gb( maybe 5400 rpms) they came with. The only downside is that I cannot ever use the G-3's disk utility to fix permissions or anything of that sort or the bios tells on me and the disk is suddenly recognized only as 120 gb and fills only to that level with data. Anywho, of all the things I have blathered on about, my overclocking of g3 350's is my biggest need right now.
TY
I would *NOT* recommend you overclock the iMac's to 600mhz. Those old convection cooled iMac's get very hot, and even 500mhz is unlikely. Try for 400mhz and maybe 450mhz (my iMac was able to get to 450mhz), but anything higher than that is just asking for trouble.
Hi I think you are right in terms of the cooling issue. 450 ish sounds about right. The reason that I aspired for 600 was I had found a page that showed how to make a custom heat sink and fan for this unit but I wanted to see if it would even boot. As you read above it didn't. The jumper charts I used were at the link below. Did you use a different chart than those? And do you think any other settings needed to be changed even for 450 as most of this guy's site is dead link city?
ty
http://www.bekkoame.ne.jp/~t-imai/imacde1.html
ty
http://www.bekkoame.ne.jp/~t-imai/imacde1.html
That was the exact same website that I used. I managed to OC my 350mhz iMac to 450mhz without any problems. Well actually, I had a ton of problems, but that was related to my soldering job, not related to heat.
Most people recommend overclocking small steps at a time, until you find the highest rate at which your computer can run safely. I ran my iMac for 24 hours while simultaneously playing an Audio CD and having the iTunes visualizer on, to stress the maximum amount of heat the computer would ever create. Remember, just because the computer can boot and operate at a higher speed does not mean that its stable at that speed. The computer must be stress tested to make sure it operates under the most extreme conditions.
Most people recommend overclocking small steps at a time, until you find the highest rate at which your computer can run safely. I ran my iMac for 24 hours while simultaneously playing an Audio CD and having the iTunes visualizer on, to stress the maximum amount of heat the computer would ever create. Remember, just because the computer can boot and operate at a higher speed does not mean that its stable at that speed. The computer must be stress tested to make sure it operates under the most extreme conditions.
I just overclocked my iMac 400 DV to 500 mhz without too much trouble considering it was my first soldering job ever. It only took about 15 min. I would think you could get those 350 mhz iMacs up to at least 450 without much trouble. I'm running 10.2, and while it isn't the fastest (especially compared to my 3 GHz XP box) it works well enough.
Good luck!
Good luck!
I will be opening my eMac hopefully in the next couple of days to put in new HD, DVD burner, and overclock as well. I put in a fan speed controller previously, and will check the colors.
Funny thing is that I didn't need to change the wiring, just modified the plug to make it fit and it worked perfectly. I don't remember if it was a Zalman Fanmate 2, but I thought that it was.
I wonder if there's a chance that you fanmate is actually defective?
Funny thing is that I didn't need to change the wiring, just modified the plug to make it fit and it worked perfectly. I don't remember if it was a Zalman Fanmate 2, but I thought that it was.
I wonder if there's a chance that you fanmate is actually defective?
seb_carley said:
Okay, I finally cracked open my eMac again for some new stuff-
1. OC'd to 1.33GHz. Not as high as I originally planned, but since I had a edu 1GHz model I only had to solder 1 bridge. After I saw how miniscule the bridges were, I decided discretion and 1.33GHz was better than a nun-functional eMac (if I had a thinner soldering iron and some sort of magnifying glass I would have been more bold.)
Good news is that the computer is humming along at 1.33GHz, nice enough for me! Thanks to Leo and everyone else here for all the great info and tips!!!
2. Added a dual-layer burner ($50 from Newegg) and new 200GB HD.
3. I looked at my Zalman fan controller wiring. I'm not sure if I have the #1 or #2 model, but it shouldn't matter. Basically all I did was shave a bit of plastic to make the plugs fit (as it seems most do), but here is the wiring for Seb:
Fan side
* Mac yellow to Zalman black
* Mac black to Zalman red
* Mac red to Zalman white
Power side
* Mac yellow to Zalman black
* Mac black to Zalman red
* Mac red to Zalman white
As you can see, it's basically symmetrical.
BTW- for those who have done this mod, how low have you turned down the fan? I am now at 50% or so. The fan is quieter than before, but I wouldn't mind going lower if its okay...The G4 iMacs were really quiet and have similar hardware (although airflow was of course different.)
Actually, I should fool around the controller to make sure it is actually reducing fan speed/noise, and not just some placebo effect!
1. OC'd to 1.33GHz. Not as high as I originally planned, but since I had a edu 1GHz model I only had to solder 1 bridge. After I saw how miniscule the bridges were, I decided discretion and 1.33GHz was better than a nun-functional eMac (if I had a thinner soldering iron and some sort of magnifying glass I would have been more bold.)
Good news is that the computer is humming along at 1.33GHz, nice enough for me! Thanks to Leo and everyone else here for all the great info and tips!!!
2. Added a dual-layer burner ($50 from Newegg) and new 200GB HD.
3. I looked at my Zalman fan controller wiring. I'm not sure if I have the #1 or #2 model, but it shouldn't matter. Basically all I did was shave a bit of plastic to make the plugs fit (as it seems most do), but here is the wiring for Seb:
Fan side
* Mac yellow to Zalman black
* Mac black to Zalman red
* Mac red to Zalman white
Power side
* Mac yellow to Zalman black
* Mac black to Zalman red
* Mac red to Zalman white
As you can see, it's basically symmetrical.
BTW- for those who have done this mod, how low have you turned down the fan? I am now at 50% or so. The fan is quieter than before, but I wouldn't mind going lower if its okay...The G4 iMacs were really quiet and have similar hardware (although airflow was of course different.)
Actually, I should fool around the controller to make sure it is actually reducing fan speed/noise, and not just some placebo effect!
Now I'm wondering if my fan speed controller is working at all. From the original mod page there is a schematic of how it should be wired. The problem is that the wire colors in my eMac are not the same as in the schematic.
http://translate.google.com/transla...=UTF-8&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools
http://www.macbidouille.com/articles/regulateur-zalman/schema.jpg
Can anyone help with this?
http://translate.google.com/transla...=UTF-8&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=/language_tools
http://www.macbidouille.com/articles/regulateur-zalman/schema.jpg
Can anyone help with this?
how to rewire fanmate 2 for emac
Leo told me how to rewire a fanmate 2, here is a photo of the rewiring, and the message he sent me. My fan is now inaudible.
quoth Leo:
Hello!
Thank you for emailing me. I am glad you have used my information.
You are correct, colours do not match. You have to rearrange wires so that red/red black/black and white/yello are connected together.
It is also important to mention that Fanmate has power side going into its SOCKETS and coming out of its PINS. eMac has the opposite arrangement so you have to find the way to connect male emac plug to male Fanmate plug, same with female plugs.
One way would be to cut and swap around Fanmate connectors.
It is easy as soon as you figure it out!
Remember: red is +12v, black is ground, white/yellow is RPM sensor.
Fanmate gets its power on its female side (should be illustarted on its box)
Does this now fall together?
end quote
In the attached photo I cut the fanmate wires in half and re-ordered them as shown. I soldered them together, taped them seperately and then taped the lot together.
I wish you success, this is certainly worth doing and has no ill effects (have been compressing VIDEO_TS all day in the middle of a heatwave with no crashes...)
madmaxmedia said:
Leo told me how to rewire a fanmate 2, here is a photo of the rewiring, and the message he sent me. My fan is now inaudible.
quoth Leo:
Hello!
Thank you for emailing me. I am glad you have used my information.
You are correct, colours do not match. You have to rearrange wires so that red/red black/black and white/yello are connected together.
It is also important to mention that Fanmate has power side going into its SOCKETS and coming out of its PINS. eMac has the opposite arrangement so you have to find the way to connect male emac plug to male Fanmate plug, same with female plugs.
One way would be to cut and swap around Fanmate connectors.
It is easy as soon as you figure it out!
Remember: red is +12v, black is ground, white/yellow is RPM sensor.
Fanmate gets its power on its female side (should be illustarted on its box)
Does this now fall together?
end quote
In the attached photo I cut the fanmate wires in half and re-ordered them as shown. I soldered them together, taped them seperately and then taped the lot together.
I wish you success, this is certainly worth doing and has no ill effects (have been compressing VIDEO_TS all day in the middle of a heatwave with no crashes...)
Attachments
hey, i just did the re-wiring in my eMac as you have shown above for the fan-mate 2......and now my eMAC's internal fan has stopped functioning all together with or without the fan mate connected, the fan doesnt even spin when i use the normal out of the box coonection with no fan controller installed...
I am not sure what has happened but i assume the re-wiring you showed didnt work on my eMac and blew a fuse or something as it seems like my fan is broken....
Do you have any ideas of how i could get my eMac's fan spinning again???
Thanks,
Shadow
I am not sure what has happened but i assume the re-wiring you showed didnt work on my eMac and blew a fuse or something as it seems like my fan is broken....
Do you have any ideas of how i could get my eMac's fan spinning again???
Thanks,
Shadow
FSB
hi all,
i wanted to change the FSB on my SEcond gen eMac can some one help me
thanks
the_new_guy
hi all,
i wanted to change the FSB on my SEcond gen eMac can some one help me
thanks
the_new_guy
Question about sleep mode...
Hi all!
This is the coolest thread ever. And maybe I can wake it back up a couple of months later
First off I'd love to hear any "3 months later" stories of your systems. Did you ever get them into a case? Are they still running? Any new mods?
Also, I'd love to say special thanks to all of you who did so much work so that I can just walz in here and start playing (esp. lbodnar and MrFX!). I know next to nothing about electronics so all that investigation would have been way way beyond me.
Ok, so this is where I am...
I have just gotten my hands on a 1st generation eMac (I guess that means 700 MHz, eh?). It apparently won't boot or start up even so I figured I'd take a stab at getting it back up and running and make it headless while I am at it. I liked the idea of cramming it into a CD player case so that is my plan (if I get it running).
And here is my question...
With the atx power supply (and the circuit designed by lbodnar) can the system go into deep sleep? That would be a huge plus for me since I plan on having the system as part of my living room stereo system and don't want to shut it off whenever I am not listening to it. I'm still planning on the coversion, I'm just curious.
Thanks!
Hi all!
This is the coolest thread ever. And maybe I can wake it back up a couple of months later
First off I'd love to hear any "3 months later" stories of your systems. Did you ever get them into a case? Are they still running? Any new mods?
Also, I'd love to say special thanks to all of you who did so much work so that I can just walz in here and start playing (esp. lbodnar and MrFX!). I know next to nothing about electronics so all that investigation would have been way way beyond me.
Ok, so this is where I am...
I have just gotten my hands on a 1st generation eMac (I guess that means 700 MHz, eh?). It apparently won't boot or start up even so I figured I'd take a stab at getting it back up and running and make it headless while I am at it. I liked the idea of cramming it into a CD player case so that is my plan (if I get it running).
And here is my question...
With the atx power supply (and the circuit designed by lbodnar) can the system go into deep sleep? That would be a huge plus for me since I plan on having the system as part of my living room stereo system and don't want to shut it off whenever I am not listening to it. I'm still planning on the coversion, I'm just curious.
Thanks!
Ok..
Ok, I wound up purchasing a Mac Performa 6115CD because it is already set up with a space for an optical drive, hard drive, and a power supply. I suppose I could use the built in power supply if I figure out it's pin outs right? It is advertised on the top that it puts out +12V 2.5A, -12V .5A, and +5V 11.5A... but it also says something about AC output. Hmmm. I am really new to all of this.
I might be better off buying a new micro atx power supply. Can these power supplies be put to deep sleep?
I'll keep posting as I figure stuff out (or don't )
Ben
Ok, I wound up purchasing a Mac Performa 6115CD because it is already set up with a space for an optical drive, hard drive, and a power supply. I suppose I could use the built in power supply if I figure out it's pin outs right? It is advertised on the top that it puts out +12V 2.5A, -12V .5A, and +5V 11.5A... but it also says something about AC output. Hmmm. I am really new to all of this.
I might be better off buying a new micro atx power supply. Can these power supplies be put to deep sleep?
I'll keep posting as I figure stuff out (or don't
)Ben
Shucks!
Seems like I am the last one at the party
Ok, so far I have been researching atx power supplies. I still have not been able to figure out if they go to deep sleep or not. I also don't know what kind of a signal the eMac sends out to indicate that it wants the PSU to sleep.
I have found some truly interesting docs on how these things work in general though. The following is very usefull:
http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/index.htm
and for some decent docs on the ATX spec as well:
http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf
I am still curious if anyone here... well curious first whether there IS anyone here but also curious whether anyone here has gotten their rig to work and whether it goes to sleep or not.
I also want to know about grounding the motherboard. I have some zinc bolts which I am using to attach the motherboard to the case... do I need to have a connection on each and every bolt hole that the original eMac used (the ones with the metal plating on them)?
ben
Seems like I am the last one at the party
Ok, so far I have been researching atx power supplies. I still have not been able to figure out if they go to deep sleep or not. I also don't know what kind of a signal the eMac sends out to indicate that it wants the PSU to sleep.
I have found some truly interesting docs on how these things work in general though. The following is very usefull:
http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/index.htm
and for some decent docs on the ATX spec as well:
http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf
I am still curious if anyone here... well curious first whether there IS anyone here
but also curious whether anyone here has gotten their rig to work and whether it goes to sleep or not.I also want to know about grounding the motherboard. I have some zinc bolts which I am using to attach the motherboard to the case... do I need to have a connection on each and every bolt hole that the original eMac used (the ones with the metal plating on them)?
ben
eMac with ATX PSU wont boot
Um, yeah. So I figured out that powering the board directly to the blind connector as mentioned in your previous threads alleviates the need for the DCB. But what about the 2.5v?? I guess that I'll build my DCB replacement per your excellent instructions and go from there.
All I get right now is the PC PSU starts up (fans, voltage etc), and when I press the eMac ON I get a temporary burst of fan activity and nothing else.
Ideas-suggestions???
Thanks
Kim C. - The MacSmith
lbodnar said:
Um, yeah. So I figured out that powering the board directly to the blind connector as mentioned in your previous threads alleviates the need for the DCB. But what about the 2.5v?? I guess that I'll build my DCB replacement per your excellent instructions and go from there.
All I get right now is the PC PSU starts up (fans, voltage etc), and when I press the eMac ON I get a temporary burst of fan activity and nothing else.
Ideas-suggestions???
Thanks
Kim C. - The MacSmith
eMac conversion has no video
Hi there!
Thank you all for your information provided to do the eMac conversion
I succesfully soldered all adapter cables (power and video) and connected them.
I also probed them and double-checked them, so my cables are ok.
When I now press the power-button, I can hear the start-up chime, all connections(fan, hd, od) have power, but i have no video! Neither on the external monitor out nor on the 18-pin video-connector.
Even the heat sinks get warm.
Do you have any ideas?
Hi there!
Thank you all for your information provided to do the eMac conversion
I succesfully soldered all adapter cables (power and video) and connected them.
I also probed them and double-checked them, so my cables are ok.
When I now press the power-button, I can hear the start-up chime, all connections(fan, hd, od) have power, but i have no video! Neither on the external monitor out nor on the 18-pin video-connector.
Even the heat sinks get warm.
Do you have any ideas?
lbodnar said:
@ lbodnar
Hello there!
how do I have to solder the blindmate-connector to run the CPU at 5 v? Which pins have to be connected to 5 V instead of 12 v?
This Information would really help me with my ATX-Conversion because I own an low-noise small fromfactor PSU. But it has just 3A on the 12 V line, which is not enough for the emac. The 5V line has more than enough power, about 12 A or so.
Thank you for your reply!
Just pins 5 and 7 which are marked C12V should be switched over to +5V. Expect good amperage on this connection (5-10A?).JonnZ said:
Pins 1, 3 (downconverter) and 13 (Firewire) have to remain on +12v but they will draw very small current.
Leo
It would be very very helpful to have HDD that you can boot off and that will autostart VNC server which allows you to connect to it over the network and see the screen (I used PC as client.) Most probably you have the screen stuck in one of the low resolution modes which results in very high vertical refresh frequency like 100+Hz. It's OK for internal CRT as it was built around these but hardly many external screens can run that high. TFTs are definitely out of question.JonnZ said:When I now press the power-button, I can hear the start-up chime, all connections(fan, hd, od) have power, but i have no video! Neither on the external monitor out nor on the 18-pin video-connector.
Even the heat sinks get warm.
Do you have any ideas?
Also, try to reset PRAM.
thx
You came up with the right idea.
I ran my eMac with 1280x1024. My old CRT in my workshop didn't support that resolution. I plugged in my 17" TFT and it worked.
Of course I had a HDD to boot off, so everything is working now.
I will keep you updated with my work on the eMac.
You came up with the right idea.
I ran my eMac with 1280x1024. My old CRT in my workshop didn't support that resolution. I plugged in my 17" TFT and it worked.
Of course I had a HDD to boot off, so everything is working now.
I will keep you updated with my work on the eMac.