If you have an iPod, install it on that, and play. Worked fine for me and when I was done looking, just unplugged the iPod and it rebooted into my normal Jaguar.
It's definetely still very rough around the edges, but I saw good promise. Expose is finally a decent way to manage windows, the Windows networking upgrades mean I won't have to shell out money for DAVE, Textedit opens Word documents, the Open/Save dialogs are a million times better and.... well just lots of other things that make the experience generally nicer. It did seem a bit faster too, which is always good.
I don't mind the changes to Aqua (the buttons instead of tabs and the less stripey stripes), but the continuing propgation of metal throughout the system is terrible. New finder shows promise, as I actually like having shortcuts on the left like that, but get rid of the metal and the daft way to choose labels please.
There's lots of stuff that I think makes it worth the cash, and I don't doubt they'll be more to come as development continues over the next few months. At the moment however, it was too rough to use as a full time OS.