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maorattias

macrumors member
Original poster
May 22, 2019
92
1
I planning to buy iMac 5k late 2015 and convert it to an external monitor for my MacBook Pro M1 Max and MacBook Pro M2 Max.
I want to take full advantage of the screen resolution (5120 x 2880), and also keeping the camera and speakers of the original screen to work when I connect one of my M1/2 Macbooks.

I found board on Aliexpress and I dont know if it is compatible to my requirements.

I would like you to help me and guide me what should I do and buy for this project.

thanks.
 
There is a list of all the conversion boards at the start, and then discussion about the currently available ones in the more recent posts.

Good luck 👍
Post any questions there.
 
There is a list of all the conversion boards at the start, and then discussion about the currently available ones in the more recent posts.

Good luck 👍
Post any questions there.
this board can work on my other iMac 5k 2017?

 
@maorattias The JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 (which you have linked to) is the cheapest conversion board available, because it is the least featured, and has been replaced by the (more expensive) JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board which has fewer limitations.

Basically you get what you pay for...
The JRY--AA1 board is only 8 bit, giving 16.7 millions colour performance, similar to the early 2014 iMac 5K panels.
If you only use it for watching internet streamed content that won't matter, because web browsers only display 8 Bit colour.
If you view and edit your own HEIC iPhone or RAW photographs or video, then you won't see your pictures properly, and you can't use the full 10 bit Display P3 colour space that Apple has built into all iMac 5K panels made after 2015/17.

It only gives 5K/30Kz if you use the HDMI 2.0 input.

It has the most basic control performance if you try to control it from the Mac keyboard - the more expensive boards allow better Mac keyboard control.
So the AA1 requires OSD settings changes through the provided Control Strip, which must be easy to access.

The AA1 has the least powerful audio amplifier of any on the boards, which gives noticeably less good audio through the iMac speakers.

But, for it's price the JRY-AA1 is all some people need, and they get good results from it.
 
@maorattias The JRY-W9CUHD-AA1 (which you have linked to) is the cheapest conversion board available, because it is the least featured, and has been replaced by the (more expensive) JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board which has fewer limitations.

Basically you get what you pay for...
The JRY--AA1 board is only 8 bit, giving 16.7 millions colour performance, similar to the early 2014 iMac 5K panels.
If you only use it for watching internet streamed content that won't matter, because web browsers only display 8 Bit colour.
If you view and edit your own HEIC iPhone or RAW photographs or video, then you won't see your pictures properly, and you can't use the full 10 bit Display P3 colour space that Apple has built into all iMac 5K panels made after 2015/17.

It only gives 5K/30Kz if you use the HDMI 2.0 input.

It has the most basic control performance if you try to control it from the Mac keyboard - the more expensive boards allow better Mac keyboard control.
So the AA1 requires OSD settings changes through the provided Control Strip, which must be easy to access.

The AA1 has the least powerful audio amplifier of any on the boards, which gives noticeably less good audio through the iMac speakers.

But, for it's price the JRY-AA1 is all some people need, and they get good results from it.
First, thank for you reply, i really appreciate it.
My need is editing video on final cut pro and photos on lightroom classic all day.
Im professional photographer and filmmaker.
So should i get the expensive one?
 
@maorattias
The JRY-W9RQUHD-SA1 board has good 10 bit video, but only 3 watt audio, which is OK but not the best.
The R1811, has the best (10 watt) audio, and the best HDMI 2.1 5K performance, but is more expensive.

This is a good supplier for buyers in Europe or the West.


If you use AliExpress you can find cheaper sellers for both boards, but make sure you tell them you need it for an iMac 5K LM270QQ1 SD(B1) 2015 screen, or LM270QQ1 SD(C1) 2017 screen.
Some vendors sell 4K versions of the SA1 board...



To connect the loudspeakers (on either board) the easiest way is to use this crossover kit:
 
My need is editing video on final cut pro and photos on lightroom classic all day.
Im professional photographer and filmmaker.
Professional and all day (and wanting camera and audio):
In that case, get an Apple 5K (or 6K?) display. Don't waste your time (and hence money) modifying an old iMac and for which you could end up with nothing if you are not reasonably competent with electronics.
 
Professional and all day (and wanting camera and audio):
In that case, get an Apple 5K (or 6K?) display. Don't waste your time (and hence money) modifying an old iMac and for which you could end up with nothing if you are not reasonably competent with electronics.
this is way more expensive than modifying an old 5k iMac display
 
this is way more expensive than modifying an old 5k iMac display
Add in the cost of your time lost to your professional activities, plus risk of the failure, plus how much the quality will enhance your work.
Only you can know all that. Whatever choice feels right to you..
 
I now have 2 of these , well 1 is a1419 case, the other is a LG 27" ultrafine with failed port, so i ripped out the boards and used the new stonetaskin SA board version, its gorgeous too. Has anyone secured their wires like DP / usb cables, power, audio etc with the strain relief fixtures? or something like a clamp? similar terms I found are:
  • grommet / grommets
  • strain / strain relief / cable strain relief
  • gland / glands / cable gland
  • clamp / clamps
  • cable (searched for "cable" & "cable gland" too)

 
@dzetoad2
without knowing how you have mounted your SA1 boards and their cables into the cases, it'd difficult to recommend a specific solution.
In the A1419 case, people have inserted a rubber grommet into a hole in the RAM door.

If you have used a 90º adapter in the LG housing, then that would need some reinforcement - something glued to the plastic?

In the long thread I linked in post #2 there are dozens of pictures of how people have solved cable management in their iMac conversions, but LG Ultrafine conversions aren't really covered...
 
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