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Image comparison of Nokton 50mm f1.1 vs 35 Summilux asph.

Hughmac said:
Perhaps you'll have a drool over this, then ;)

My father's camera... not a Leica but still superb German engineering...



Lordomat C35 by Hugh Russell, on Flickr

Lordomat C35 by Hugh Russell, on Flickr

Cheers :)

Hugh
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Ah, @Hughmac - I wear glasses and really cannot read tiny print on cameras in pictures (one of the reasons I tend to prefer text to pictures sometimes); what make of camera is this - am I right in thinking it might be a Lordomat?

And, how old is it? I would guess 1950s, but couldn't swear to it....
 
Scepticalscribe said:
Ah, @Hughmac - I wear glasses and really cannot read tiny print on cameras in pictures (one of the reasons I tend to prefer text to pictures sometimes); what make of camera is this - am I right in thinking it might be a Lordomat?

And, how old is it? I would guess 1950s, but couldn't swear to it....
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Yes and yes, it's my dad's Lordomat C35, complete with the 50mm f/2.8 and 90mm f/4 lenses.
It still works - there's a b&w film in it at the moment, but I have forgotten to get it processed.

Cheers :)

Hugh
 
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Hughmac said:
Yes and yes, it's my dad's Lordomat C35, complete with the 50mm f/2.8 and 90mm f/4 lenses.
It still works - there's a b&w film in it at the moment, but I have forgotten to get it processed.

Cheers :)

Hugh
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How wonderful - you must have great fun using it.

My very first camera was an antique Minolta rangefinder - a brute of a camera (it kept tearing film as you unwound and unloaded - eventually, I learned that the safest away of dealing with it was to use a darkroom which was a right pain) but it took some really terrific pictures if you got it right.
 
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The wait gets worse, my 50 lux has arrived in store...but no sign of the camera! :(

Also could anyone have any idea on Diopters?

I should wear reading glasses but don't as its only a very slight correction...on a canon the diopter is set to -1 by default and I am -3 clicks (i think there are 8 clicks either way at +/- 2 diopters)

So according to canon my diopter is -1 (default) + -3/4 (my diopter adjustment) = 1 3/4 total (or near enough -2 total)

On leicas I have read the default is -0.5, so will i need -1.5 to hit -2 above....

Or will I just need somewhere between the -0.5 to -1 (my difference from the default)

Does that make sense? I am thinking its just the -0.5 -1 as i don't really notice any issues day to day?
 
yeah i got this now i think, leica say to ignore the default -0.5 value so i assume i can also ignore the canon default of -1

Therefore..given a Canon diopter has 8 'clicks' of positive adjustment and 8 'clicks' of negative adjustment, (and a total of +/- 2 diopters either side of default) each 'click' is 0.25 of a diopter...My adjustment on canon is 3 'clicks' to the negative, therefore i should need a diopter of around -0.75.

So the good news is if I try the -0.5 and -1 my ideal should be one of them

The bad news is of course my eyes appear to be a lot worse than I remember...maybe its time to get them tested again!!

Given my eye sight perhaps i shouldn't attempt any quick escapes!!
 
Why not just wait until you get the camera and see how the default viewfinder is ? Remember that focusing an M just means aligning the focusing patches , the image in the finder will remain the same . I wear bifocals and find it's irrelevant as to whether I 'm wearing them or not as regards focusing . As long as you can discern the patches , you're in the clear. Plus , if I'm just walking around , I'm probably zone focused which along with shooting Aperture Priority pretty much gives you a really expensive point and shoot .
 
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someoldguy said:
Why not just wait until you get the camera and see how the default viewfinder is ? Remember that focusing an M just means aligning the focusing patches , the image in the finder will remain the same . I wear bifocals and find it's irrelevant as to whether I 'm wearing them or not as regards focusing . As long as you can discern the patches , you're in the clear. Plus , if I'm just walking around , I'm probably zone focused which along with shooting Aperture Priority pretty much gives you a really expensive point and shoot .
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Well I am going to have a go of a store demo model tomorrow, I just wanted to get an idea if i might need a diopter and if I do where to start, proof will be in the pudding tomorrow i guess
 
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Well it might not be much buts its my first ever shot on a leica...i'm just pleased i managed to get it focused...I think I will definitely need to work on getting some muscle memory on the focus so I know roughly where it needs to be.



I have heard it can struggle with back lit scences, i found it did need quite a healthy exp comp when taking a picture of my wife with a large window behind, again I suppose if you know its there you can adjust for it..

Here a couple of very unexciting M10 DNG's if anyone wants them, M10 (35 Cron):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6574169/ -1-2.dng

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6574169/ -1.dng
 
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kenoh said:
All cameras struggle with back lit scenes so dont sweat that.
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Yeah it was just more than I expected, on my 5d4 I would say the scene would have needed maybe +1 to +1.5 on the M10 it was more like +2 to 2.5...it's just getting used to a diff system...focus was easier than thought I was just a little slow with it..

The good news was the file pulls up really well in LR...

...definitely a difference experience from a DSLR but a good different....think I am going to enjoy getting back to basics :) thanks for all the help on this thread I know I have asked some right noob questions..!! Sorry

Oh and my crazy working out on the diopter was right...a -0.5 adjustment was perfect
 
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You will get muscle memory on the focussing

To the left is close focus, to the right infinity

In the middle straight down about 2m your fingers will start moving the focus tab instinctively as you raise it to your eye if you shoot like I do... Except with your skills, better output will ensue... :)
 
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kenoh said:
You will get muscle memory on the focussing

To the left is close focus, to the right infinity

In the middle straight down about 2m your fingers will start moving the focus tab instinctively as you raise it to your eye if you shoot like I do... Except with your skills, better output will ensue... :)
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Hm. It is entirely possible that I haven't used my Precious sufficiently, as this sort of muscle memory - even in the days when I did shoot prolifically - when I had shot with Pentaxes - was completely alien to me.

You learn the most amazing things on these threads - quite wonderful.
 
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Scepticalscribe said:
Hm. It is entirely possible that I haven't used my Precious sufficiently, as this sort of muscle memory - even in the days when I did shoot prolifically - when I had shot with Pentaxes - was completely alien to me.

You learn the most amazing things on these threads - quite wonderful.
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I had no clue either but i read it somewhere... I never twigged that all Leica lenses focus to the same distance given the same position for the focus tab. Since reading and trying it, it actually works... you need to critical focus obviously but for getting in the general ballpark quickly it works. Some people can focus them by feel only... I am no where near that stage yet.
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Apple fanboy said:
Never used a Nikon then :D

Sorry couldn't resist!
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Oh yeah... I have a Nikon FM... so yeah, I have shot a Nikon...
 
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