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evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61

Background:​

I've had a Cube in my possession since around 2011. It has been upgraded with a dual 500Mhz 7400 from a Gigabit and a Radeon 9000 Pro from the MDD. I have heard the horror stories about exploding VRMs that take out other components in the system, but so far, I haven't had any real issues with mine. However, after learning more about the VRM, I think the survival of mine has more to do with the fact that I tend to use my Cube to play older games in Mac OS 9 where only one of the CPUs is really utilized and the GPU isn't under a massive load. In this post, I hope to outline what I have learned about the Cube's VRM and my plans to make it more robust.

For starters, lets talk about what the VRM is actually doing. The VRM is responsible for taking the 28v output from the Cube's external power brick and converting it into the 12v, 5v, and 3.3v that the various hardware needs to operate. The VRM creates the three required voltages by lowering them using buck converter circuitry. Without going into too much engineering, a buck converter is essentially a switch that turns on and off quickly and stores energy in the form of magnetic flux in an inductor. Combined with some capacitors to stabilize the output, a buck converter can create a relatively stable output voltage that is lower than the input. The Cube VRM contains one buck converter for each of the required voltages. The 12v is controlled by the LM6278 chip on the right side of the VRM. The 5v and 3.3v are controlled by the LTC1628CG in the middle of the board. The controllers are responsible for the switching frequency, target voltage, and over/under voltage and current protection for the circuitry.

Because Molex is a known pinout with 12v and 5v lines, we can use the Molex connector to probe around the VRM with a multimeter to determine which of the converters are which, and which pins they connect to on the logic board. Marking the pins with their voltage will make it easier to determine which parts of the Cube use which voltage. By following this method, I have determined that the CPU card uses 5v for the CPU VCore and 3.3v for VBus (both fed through further buck converters on the CPU card itself). 3.3v is also used directly to power the cache chips. There isn't much info available on GPU chips or video card power setups, so it is too difficult for me to determine which of the three rails the video card will put the most stress on. The AGP spec specifies a max of 6A on 3.3v, 2A on 5v, and 1A on 12v; this adds up to 48.25 W. The Radeon 9000 Pro only pulls 28W max, so its total load won't be the AGP max, but seeing as I don't really know where it is pulling that 28W from, I'll just assume the worst on each rail going forward.

As for other sinks of current on the Cube, the ADC connector on the video card as well as the FireWire ports are driven directly from the external 28v supply. The USB connectors are driven from 5v and rated at 500mA each. The memory and chipset almost certainly draw power from 3.3v given that this is used for the bus voltage on the CPU card and 3.3v is the spec for PC SDRAM.

Why the VRM Fails:​

Now that we know where the power flows, we can start to analyze why the VRM seems to fail for so many people. The short and easy answer is that it gets overloaded as you add upgrades to the cube, but the nuance of why this occurs so catastrophically should be able to help us improve the stock VRM.

Before we get any further, it helps to understand a bit about how an inductor operates in a buck converter. As mentioned previously, inductors store energy in the form of magnetic flux. This flux wants to keep the current flowing at a steady rate. Because the switch in the converter is constantly turning on and off, the amount of flux stored in the inductor rises and falls. It will rise above the output current when the switch is on, and fall below the output current when the switch is off. On average, the current flowing through the inductor is equal to the output current. The amount of current above and below the average is called "ripple". By calculating the ripple current and dividing it by 2, we can add this ripple to the output current and get the peak current that flows through the inductor. The peak current will also flow through the switching MOSFETs (and diode in the case of the 12v rail). Once an inductor hits the maximum amount of flux that it can store (determined by the current), it is "saturated" and its inductance begins to drop.

12v​

As mentioned previously, the 12v rail is generated by the LM2678 chip. The chip itself contains the switching FET and is rated for 5A. The 12v buck is set up as a non-synchronous converter using the Inductor right next to it and the diode directly opposite it on the board. This diode is rated for 3A max, meaning it has a fair chance of burning up if you push it much past this. The inductor also starts to saturate around 3A. Given that the LM2678 has a switching frequency of 260kHz and is using a 47uH inductor, we can determine that its ripple current is ~0.56A. This means that we need to add 0.28A to our max current draw when calculating the total load on the components. As far as I can tell, the 12v rail powers the GPU, the HDD, optical drive, and fan (if one is installed). The GPU can draw up to 1A on the 12v rail (although it might not always use that much). The remaining components are all inductive loads (they have motors) which will draw much more current at spin up than at steady state. Based on what google told me, an HDD will pull a little over an amp when spinning up and around 0.5A when running. An optical drive can pull over 2A when spinning up and around 1A when running. Finally, the fan will pull around 0.2A.

Adding all of this up we can determine a peak load (if all of the inductive loads spin up at the same time and the GPU is running full tilt) of ~4.5A, much higher than the diode can handle! However, it is highly unlikely that all of these events will occur simultaneously. The peak steady state load is closer to 3A, which is right on the line. Replacing the HDD with a form of solid-state storage will reduce its current draw to as low as 0.2A and eliminate its potential to surge more current on startup. With an SSD installed we are at a much more comfortable 2.7A and significantly less when the optical drive and GPU are not loaded simultaneously. With an SSD installed, I believe that it is highly unlikely for the 12v rail to explode unless you are doing something crazy like putting a Radeon 9800 in your Cube.

5v​

The 5v rail generated from the LTC1628CG flows through FETs that are rated for 10A and an inductor that begins to saturate around 10A. However, the overcurrent protection won't trigger until 18.5A! This means that it is very easy for the load to push past what the FETs can handle and blow them up. The switching frequency of the buck is set at 220kHz and the inductor is rated at 2.4uH, which gives us the absolute dog **** ripple current of ~7.78A. This means that we have to add an entire 3.89A to the total load on that single, lonely high side MOSFET that is only rated for 10A. The two PowerPC 7400 CPUs running at 500MHz in my cube will draw up to 18.9W each if every execution unit is fully utilized. This translates into 7.56A from the 5v rail, meaning if we add the 3.89A ripple, the resulting 11.45A is already more than enough to start cooking the high side FET. The 2A that can feed to the AGP port and the 1A that can go to USB are further sources of load that need to be taken into account here, giving us a theoretical max 5v current of 14.45A which the single high side FET simply cannot handle.

3.3v​

The 3.3v rail is essentially a clone of the 5v rail and has all of its characteristics, including its horrendous ripple and single 10A high side FET. The bus, RAM, and cache chips that run on it really shouldn't put a ton of load on the rail though. The cache chips used on these early G4 CPU cards have a max power draw of 1.6W each. There are 4 of them on a dual CPU card that add up to 7.4W, or a little over 2A on the 3.3v rail. However, each CPU will only be loading one cache module at a time, so I'm going to round down to an even 2A here. Based on what I could find, PC100 SDRAM will pull a little over 2W. This is technically per-stick, but I don't think the cube accesses more than one at a time, so we will call it 1A for memory just to be safe. The chipset on the cube is a complete mystery to me, so I'm calling it 1A. So far, with ripple, that puts us at a 7.89A load on the 3.3v rail. The AGP slot can provide up to 6A from the 3.3v rail, which brings us into the realm of fire with 13.89A. Most GPUs won't actually pull the full 6A, but the potential is there.

Improving the VRM:​

Now that we know why the VRM fails, we can set about improving it.

12v​

The 12v rail doesn't really need any changes unless you are running a massive GPU like a Radeon 9800 or you play games using the optical drive. Ditching the HDD for an SSD is probably more than enough to keep your 12v rail safe. If you do want to try to run more power from 12v though, I do believe that it can be upgraded. The LM2678 is already rated for 5A, so by swapping its diode for one rated for 5A and swapping its inductor for one with a higher saturation current, it could give you up to 2 more amps to play with.

5v and 3.3v​

The 5v and 3.3v rails (almost famously at this point) have an empty spot for a parallel high-side FET. Why didn't Apple put one in there? I think there are few related reasons. Apple never expected anything more than a single 7400 running at 500Mhz and a Radeon DDR to be installed in this machine. A single 7400 will draw up to 3.78A from the 5v rail. The smaller number of cache chips and smaller GPU also put less stress on the 3.3v rail. With these components installed, the load would be safely under 10A for both rails. Adding an additional FET would increase the gate capacitance (reducing buck efficiency) and increase the cost to produce the boards. I think the missing FET also explains why the overcurrent protection is set so high at 18.5A. It is likely that the engineers designing the board intended it to be used with *two* 10A FETs in parallel, so the 18.5A made sense. When they found out that they needed to cut cost and had a heavily overbuilt VRM for the stock cube, the FETs were cut without re-designing the overcurrent set point. I can only assume that two FETs were left on the low side due to excessive stress on the parallel diode when one of them was removed.

So, we can improve the VRM by simply adding an additional FET, right? Well, yes and no. The original FETs used for this board are no longer manufactured and cannot be obtained without harvesting them from existing components. If you have a blown VRM laying around, this might be an option. However, these FETs do have a direct descendant that is still being manufactured today that happens to have a 19A rating. I plan on replacing all of the FETs on my VRM with these newer components. They do have a larger gate capacitance than the originals, meaning that the switching losses (heat) will be higher, but I plan to add some heatsinks to compensate for this. There are also some marginally better diodes than the originals that are extremely cheap. It won't make a huge difference, but replacing them will gain us back a hair of that efficiency we lose by moving to the new FETs. I also found a diode and inductor that will allow upgrades on the 12v rail, but I don't personally plan to install them on my VRM as I don't have a need for that much 12v power at this time.

Sadly, even with these upgrades, we can't do anything about the horrendous ripple and 10A saturation current on the inductors. The inductors used on the Cube VRM are in a form factor that, as far as I can tell, was a bit of a one off and the Cube is already using the largest one possible. According to the datasheet on the inductor, we should be able to push it to about 13A before it really starts to fall apart, but it might get a bit warm in the process. At least with the new FETs installed, the overcurrent protection should kick in before one of the rails overloads or the inductor fully saturates and shorts (which is still completely within the realm of possibility when running a dual CPU or anything higher than a 7410). If OCP triggers, the machine should now simply crash or reboot instead of destroying itself. While we have the soldering station out, why not replace those electrolytic caps while we are at it?

I put together a Digikey list with all of the components that I plan on using to upgrade the VRM here https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/1LXXI15098 . The inductor and 5A diode are only necessary if you plan to upgrade the 12v rail as well. I'll try to update this post with a step by step guide on upgrading the VRM if I am successful.

Sources:​

TL;DR​

If you are running a CPU larger than a 7410, just buy the Stratos VRM (https://artmix.com/products/product...c-g4-cube-high-power-vrm-unit/?v=394da5ea23cf). Otherwise, buy these parts and swap them on to your VRM with a rework station and it should handle most of the more available upgrades from other PowerMac G4 machines: https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/1LXXI15098
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61

It works!​

My parts came in so I went for the upgrade today. Below are some photos I took and general comments on the process.

Highlighted here are the original FETs. These are the parts that you want to remove. Make note of their orientation for when you go to replace them. Most of them have a white dot denoting pin 1, but this is missing for Q10 (pin one is in the bottom left for Q10 here). I have already removed the electrolytic capacitors that I'm going to be replacing with some new polymer caps as well. I tried to find some tantalum caps to replace the originals, but the only ones that met the voltage and capacitance specs for the input side were a bad form factor and extremely expensive.

OriginalFETs.jpg


Here is the VRM with the FETs removed. The copper on this PCB is extremely thick and soaks up heat like crazy. This modification would be extremely difficult to perform without a board pre-heater. My pre-heater had to be set to 180C and my hot air station set to 260C to get the FETs off.

NoFETs.jpg


Here is the VRM with the new FETs and cpacitors installed.

NewFETs.jpg


Here are the three diodes I'm replacing. Note that the cathode should be oriented towards the "D*" silkscreen marks.

OldDiodes.jpg


New diodes are installed.

NewDiodes.jpg


Here I've added the heatsinks to the FETs.

Complete.jpg


And... disaster. I knocked the VRM off of my workbench and and one of the inductor cores shattered...

OhNo.jpg


I'm not going to pretend to be an inductor expert here (I'm not an electrical engineer, just a hobbyist with a fair amount of experience working with power supplies). Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the most important part here is the one that runs through center of the inductor, which is completely intact. I was able to put the inductor parts back in place with super glue.

HumptyDumpty.jpg


Probing around a bit more, I found out which pins are 28v input and how the Cube powers the VRM on when you boot it up. 28v from the external supply is always provided on the 28v pins. The LTC1628CG has a 5v linear regulator that is always on at this time. Pulling the "EN" pin low turns off a transistor that is pulling the enable pins for all three buck converters low. With the transistor off, the 5v from the linear regulator rises the voltage on the enable pins for the bucks, and the VRM is fully on. I tested each of the outputs and got a clean 3.3v, 5v, and 12v where it should be.

TestSetup.jpg


I'm still a little nervous to put a heavy load on it with that glued-together inductor though... That being said, I'm now starting to think more about how I could design an entirely new VRM for the Cube. One that would allow clearance to install larger video cards without relocating the VRM and provide more than enough power for dual 7447 CPUs and much larger GPUs like a Radeon 9800. If I get around to making that happen, I'll open source the design and probably sell a few on Tindie.
 

Needleroozer

macrumors regular
Mar 29, 2013
137
197

It works!​

My parts came in so I went for the upgrade today. Below are some photos I took and general comments on the process.

Highlighted here are the original FETs. These are the parts that you want to remove. Make note of their orientation for when you go to replace them. Most of them have a white dot denoting pin 1, but this is missing for Q10 (pin one is in the bottom left for Q10 here). I have already removed the electrolytic capacitors that I'm going to be replacing with some new polymer caps as well. I tried to find some tantalum caps to replace the originals, but the only ones that met the voltage and capacitance specs for the input side were a bad form factor and extremely expensive.

View attachment 2257558

Here is the VRM with the FETs removed. The copper on this PCB is extremely thick and soaks up heat like crazy. This modification would be extremely difficult to perform without a board pre-heater. My pre-heater had to be set to 180C and my hot air station set to 260C to get the FETs off.

View attachment 2257559

Here is the VRM with the new FETs and cpacitors installed.

View attachment 2257560

Here are the three diodes I'm replacing. Note that the cathode should be oriented towards the "D*" silkscreen marks.

View attachment 2257561

New diodes are installed.

View attachment 2257562

Here I've added the heatsinks to the FETs.

View attachment 2257563

And... disaster. I knocked the VRM off of my workbench and and one of the inductor cores shattered...

View attachment 2257564

I'm not going to pretend to be an inductor expert here (I'm not an electrical engineer, just a hobbyist with a fair amount of experience working with power supplies). Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the most important part here is the one that runs through center of the inductor, which is completely intact. I was able to put the inductor parts back in place with super glue.

View attachment 2257565

Probing around a bit more, I found out which pins are 28v input and how the Cube powers the VRM on when you boot it up. 28v from the external supply is always provided on the 28v pins. The LTC1628CG has a 5v linear regulator that is always on at this time. Pulling the "EN" pin low turns off a transistor that is pulling the enable pins for all three buck converters low. With the transistor off, the 5v from the linear regulator rises the voltage on the enable pins for the bucks, and the VRM is fully on. I tested each of the outputs and got a clean 3.3v, 5v, and 12v where it should be.

View attachment 2257566

I'm still a little nervous to put a heavy load on it with that glued-together inductor though... That being said, I'm now starting to think more about how I could design an entirely new VRM for the Cube. One that would allow clearance to install larger video cards without relocating the VRM and provide more than enough power for dual 7447 CPUs and much larger GPUs like a Radeon 9800. If I get around to making that happen, I'll open source the design and probably sell a few on Tindie.

Looks good! I’ve been watching your work with interest since my Cube’s VRM is also a bit weak and I just haven’t looked into which parts to replace yet.

I’m pretty sure that what you broke off the inductor is the ferrous shielding; it should probably be fine to have it super-glued back on (it conducts magnetic flux rather than electrical current, so proximity rather than electrical contact is what’s important). I think it will increase your inductance a little bit, which may affect the stability of the relevant output rail under load.
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
I finally got my Cube put back together and the upgraded VRM seems to work just fine. It stays rather cool too. I'm definitely looking into building an entirely new VRM that will supply the most current possible though. The real limiting factor to power on a new VRM is the current that the pins on the VRM can handle. The main connector can handle 3A per pin and the Molex micro-fit can handle 8.5A per pin. That gives us the following max values before we risk melting some plastic: 21A for 3.3v (all on the 30-pin connector), 23.5A for 5v (15A on 30-pin, 8.5A on Molex), and 11.5A for the 12v rail (3A on 30-pin, 8.5A on Molex).

I have two primary reasons that I want to build my own when the Stratos VRM already exists. First is just to have one that is open source and well documented. If supplies of the Stratos VRMs ever dry up, an open source VRM will still be there. Second is to try to design one that allows larger video cards (Radeon 9000 pro in my case) without having to move the VRM. With modern components, I think I can put 100% of the circuitry on the back side of the VRM; meaning the side facing the video card will just be a flat PCB. A big, open 2oz copper plane on one side will also function as a halfway decent heatsink for the components on the back. This will avoid a relocated VRM conflicting with the optical or storage drive bays and also give me some peace of mind that I'm not plowing 20A through a floppy drive cable. I'll start a new thread on it when I have it ready to go.
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
On a somewhat related note, if you need a new 28v external PSU, I found one that is very cost effective and should be capable of powering a heavily upgraded cube with a 23" Cinema or CRT ADC display. I also found the PSU connector thanks to a thread on 68kmla. It isn't as sexy as a stock PSU, but I won't complain for something modern, efficient, and reliable.

New PSU: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/ENP-240-24/7703107
Power connector: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/kycon-inc/KPPX-4P/9990085

It would also be neat to 3D print a case for a chassis mount PSU that maintains a stock look. I found one that would work along with some white power inlets. It would be a lot more work and require hooking up mains voltage, but way cooler than a plain black rectangle.

Chassis PSU: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tdk-lambda-americas-inc/CUS400M-28/13531585
Power Inlets: https://www.digikey.com/short/dfhjc52c
 

NikolaPPC

macrumors member
Jan 14, 2020
76
79
I finally got my Cube put back together and the upgraded VRM seems to work just fine. It stays rather cool too. I'm definitely looking into building an entirely new VRM that will supply the most current possible though. The real limiting factor to power on a new VRM is the current that the pins on the VRM can handle. The main connector can handle 3A per pin and the Molex micro-fit can handle 8.5A per pin. That gives us the following max values before we risk melting some plastic: 21A for 3.3v (all on the 30-pin connector), 23.5A for 5v (15A on 30-pin, 8.5A on Molex), and 11.5A for the 12v rail (3A on 30-pin, 8.5A on Molex).

I have two primary reasons that I want to build my own when the Stratos VRM already exists. First is just to have one that is open source and well documented. If supplies of the Stratos VRMs ever dry up, an open source VRM will still be there. Second is to try to design one that allows larger video cards (Radeon 9000 pro in my case) without having to move the VRM. With modern components, I think I can put 100% of the circuitry on the back side of the VRM; meaning the side facing the video card will just be a flat PCB. A big, open 2oz copper plane on one side will also function as a halfway decent heatsink for the components on the back. This will avoid a relocated VRM conflicting with the optical or storage drive bays and also give me some peace of mind that I'm not plowing 20A through a floppy drive cable. I'll start a new thread on it when I have it ready to go.
I design PCBs, so if you need someone to draw it, i can help you! :D
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
I design PCBs, so if you need someone to draw it, i can help you! :D
Thanks! I have designed a few PCBs myself for LED power supplies and controllers. But those are usually just an ARM microcontroller with a fully integrated buck module that generally only pushes about 5A at 5v. My plans for the VRM are 3 phase, 3 voltage level, 20A each phase. The new VRM is definitely the most hardcore power supply I have ever attempted. I'll definitely be looking for some community involvement and review once I get the schematic and first draft of the board layout going.
 

NikolaPPC

macrumors member
Jan 14, 2020
76
79
Thanks! I have designed a few PCBs myself for LED power supplies and controllers. But those are usually just an ARM microcontroller with a fully integrated buck module that generally only pushes about 5A at 5v. My plans for the VRM are 3 phase, 3 voltage level, 20A each phase. The new VRM is definitely the most hardcore power supply I have ever attempted. I'll definitely be looking for some community involvement and review once I get the schematic and first draft of the board layout going.
I've designed much more complicated boards with lots of components, some consuming more than 60-70A. It's not a problem for me to help you! :D
Send me the schematic and I'll come up with the design. Compare it with yours in the meantime and come up with improvements! :D
 
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evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
Bit of an update on my effort to create a new VRM. I have all of the components picked out and have created a DigiKey list containing them (a few of the smaller caps and resistors at the bottom won't be necessary, just ordering them in case initial testing reveals that they are needed for loop tuning). Going with a 4 layer board with 2oz copper on all layers from JLCPCB will result in a price of about $25 each for their minimum order quantity of 5. Economies of scale kick in really fast for small scale PCB manufacturing, so this price will reduce drastically if more boards are produced. I think it is possible keep the parts cost for a new VRM below $100, which is a pretty big achievement and means that this solution can be cost competitive with the Stratos VRM; even if they are being manufactured as a one off for personal use only. The schematic is only in my head right now, but I'll try to get that laid out in a shareable format next weekend.
 
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Needleroozer

macrumors regular
Mar 29, 2013
137
197
What's a VRM?

For starters, lets talk about what the VRM is actually doing. The VRM is responsible for taking the 28v output from the Cube's external power brick and converting it into the 12v, 5v, and 3.3v that the various hardware needs to operate. The VRM creates the three required voltages by lowering them using buck converter circuitry.

VRM stands for Voltage Regulation Module and refers to the entire voltage regulation daughterboard in the Cube.
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
What's a VRM?
It stands for Voltage Regulator Module. Pretty much all computers require 12V, 5V, and 3.3V to run. The Cube power supply only delivers 28V, so the VRM drops that to the 12V, 5V, and 3.3V that the rest of the system requires to run.
 
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siddhartha

macrumors regular
Aug 8, 2008
149
41
Northern Virgina
I think there is also a Japanese collector who has offered an improved VRM module in the past. I purchased one (I think) a few years back to restore a broken Cube.
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
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I think there is also a Japanese collector who has offered an improved VRM module in the past. I purchased one (I think) a few years back to restore a broken Cube.
Yes, this is the Stratos VRM I mentioned. They actually appear to produce more of these occasionally for $220. The Stratos VRM still require a relocation for larger video cards though and don't have published specs (at least that I could find). I'm also currently working on a custom CPU card with dosdude1. My new VRM should be able to safely drive dual, overclocked 7448s and a Radeon 9800 Pro for the ultimate cube.
 
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siddhartha

macrumors regular
Aug 8, 2008
149
41
Northern Virgina
Yes, this is the Stratos VRM I mentioned. They actually appear to produce more of these occasionally for $220. The Stratos VRM still require a relocation for larger video cards though and don't have published specs (at least that I could find). I'm also currently working on a custom CPU card with dosdude1. My new VRM should be able to safely drive dual, overclocked 7448s and a Radeon 9800 Pro for the ultimate cube.
That would be amazing, and I would definitely be interested if you make more. I have a couple of non-working Cubes, a stock one, and one with upgraded/flashed video card and CPU. Also some CPU upgrades that I haven't installed yet, including a dual that I'd like to get working in one of the non-working cubes.
It's such a cool design!
 
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evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
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Huge update: I have a schematic in KiCAD for the new VRM and the project now lives on GitHub. I have started a new thread on it here: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/open-source-power-mac-g4-cube-vrm.2405896/

I haven't double checked a lot of the packages yet, so that might be a good idea if anyone wants to take a stab at designing a PCB. I also need to put datasheets in there and get the BOM generated.
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
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@EmilioCube I'm responding here so we can discuss your upgrade attempt on a more appropriate thread.

To check your FETs for shorts, you can check resistance from the possible pin combinations of D/S, G/S, and G/D. On the FETs that the VRM uses: S is pins 1-3, G is pin 4, and D is pins 5-8. Since the FETs are in parallel sets, a short on one D/S will show as a short on the other, so narrowing it down if one is failed there will require desoldering one of them. A short from D/S on the high side FETs has a high likelihood of damaging other components in the machine as it could have exposed things to 28V that should not be exposed to 28V. A short from the gate on either of the FETs could have damaged the buck controller itself. A short on the low side FET D/S is probably the least damaging scenario as that would just cause the controller to lock out the top FETs. The controller will try to shunt power in an attempt to blow a fuse if the top side FET shorts D/S, so it isn't guaranteed that it would have damaged your motherboard in this case, but something else would have to blow up instead. Either a fuse in the path (I'm not sure if one is present) an input component, a trace on a PCB, or the controller itself.

As for the green and red LEDs, those are always supposed to come on any time the cube is pulgged in, even if it is powered down. So those would have nothing to do with what blew up. If you saw a flash and smelled smoke, you can probably visually track down what component(s) may have failed by examining the PCBs for burn marks.

So the odds that something else in the cube was damaged during a VRM failure are there, but most scenarios just lead to the VRM itself being fried.
 
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EmilioCube

macrumors member
Jul 23, 2023
92
27
Karlsruhe, Germany
Sorry for posting my problem in the wrong thread, I will delete it.
Here you have pictures of my motherboard. The only parts that seem to be damaged in any way are the two beige parts in the first image near to the PATA/AirPort Connector. But I do not think that these could be the parts that caused the short and the flash that seemed to come from the motherboard. I left the Cube open so that I could immediately plug the power cable off if anything would fail, that is why I saw the flash so clearly.
I will try testing the resistance on the FETs.
View attachment 2294890 View attachment 2294889 View attachment 2294888
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
Sorry for posting my problem in the wrong thread, I will delete it.
Here you have pictures of my motherboard. The only parts that seem to be damaged in any way are the two beige parts in the first image near to the PATA/AirPort Connector. But I do not think that these could be the parts that caused the short and the flash that seemed to come from the motherboard. I left the Cube open so that I could immediately plug the power cable off if anything would fail, that is why I saw the flash so clearly.
I will try testing the resistance on the FETs.
View attachment 2294890 View attachment 2294889 View attachment 2294888
No worries, I didn't mind answering short questions over there, but just thought that this was becoming a longer conversation. I can't seem to access your attachments.
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
The two beige components are large ceramic capacitors. They look fine to me. Usually, when capacitors fail it is pretty catastrophic (they explode). The fact that they are still mounted to the PCB intact with no burn marks makes me want to say that nothing is wrong with them. Nothing else really jumps out to me visually as looking like it was damaged either, but some ICs are good at hiding it. With any luck, it is hopefully just the VRM that was damaged here.
 

EmilioCube

macrumors member
Jul 23, 2023
92
27
Karlsruhe, Germany
And the only part of the cube that stinks even now is the CPU card, mostly in the area of the CS5165 chip, but it does not seem to be damaged as well. The VRM looks perfectly fine.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 

evanboonie

macrumors member
Original poster
Jul 4, 2020
57
61
The CS5165 is the buck controller for the CPU VDD/VCore. It is powered from the 5v rail, so it could have been damaged if the 5v rail on the VRM is what had a defect.
 

EmilioCube

macrumors member
Jul 23, 2023
92
27
Karlsruhe, Germany
Does it then make sense that the white power light on the top of the cube went on and after two seconds it went off when the short circuit appeared?
The resistance was normal on all FET pads except for the ones from Q3 and Q7 where Pins 1-3 and 5-8 were connected altogether. This does not appear on any other FETs.
IMG_7209.jpeg
 
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