Input not supported

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
Hi,

Just got a 4,1 with a ATI 5770 video card. I connected to my Acer monitor via DVI port. I hear the boot up sound but getting a message of Input not supported on my monitor. Any suggestion on this? I've ordered a DVI to VGA adapter to see if that will help.
 

Fl0r!an

macrumors 6502a
Aug 14, 2007
906
526
Sounds like a resolution your monitor doesn't support, try to reset your PRAM.
 

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
It is a apple. I just ran a serial # check and it appears to be a 5,1 not a 4,1. Crap the guy on ebay sold me a 5,1 now I can't do the 4,1 to 5,1 dual CPU upgrade without costing me a arm and a leg. Just purchased a 4,1 dual tray also. But I should see a Mac boot up screen eventhough it doesn't have an OS right? Sorry for the newbie question. This is the first Mac I ever own.
 

h9826790

macrumors G5
Apr 3, 2014
14,139
6,775
Hong Kong
If that's a 5,1 and the Apple 5770, you should able to see the bootscreen even no HDD.

And be careful, the 4,1 dual CPU upgrade is not an easy one, unless you plan to go for the lidless CPU. Otherwise, please make sure you do all the studies before take any actions (including remove the heat sink from the dual CPU tray).

By the way, AFAIK, if you put a 4,1 tray into a 5,1. All the fans will go crazy (full speed) due to the unmatched SMC version.

You may need to fix this issue before start the upgrade. Either get a 5,1 tray, then use normal CPU. Or a 4,1 machine, and decide go for the lidless CPU / count turns / washers route, etc.
 

Fl0r!an

macrumors 6502a
Aug 14, 2007
906
526
I'm quite sure the display resolution saved in the PRAM applies to both EFI display and OS display, so if your previous owner was driving a 2560x1600 display and you're using a FullHD display this message would be totally normal. Just reset your PRAM (press Command-Option-P-R on startup), it takes literally 5 seconds, then you'll know if this was the reason or not.
 

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
If that's a 5,1 and the Apple 5770, you should able to see the bootscreen even no HDD.

And be careful, the 4,1 dual CPU upgrade is not an easy one, unless you plan to go for the lidless CPU. Otherwise, please make sure you do all the studies before take any actions (including remove the heat sink from the dual CPU tray).

By the way, AFAIK, if you put a 4,1 tray into a 5,1. All the fans will go crazy (full speed) due to the unmatched SMC version.

You may need to fix this issue before start the upgrade. Either get a 5,1 tray, then use normal CPU. Or a 4,1 machine, and decide go for the lidless CPU / count turns / washers route, etc.

Thanks. Yeah, been reading and browsing this forum and others for the past month. So if it is truly a 5,1 then it is best to sell that and put a 4,1 for a cheapter route. I was planning on going with the delid route. Dispite which verison 4,1 or 5,1 I should still see a mac boot screen after a erase the PRAM right?
 

h9826790

macrumors G5
Apr 3, 2014
14,139
6,775
Hong Kong
Thanks. Yeah, been reading and browsing this forum and others for the past month. So if it is truly a 5,1 then it is best to sell that and put a 4,1 for a cheapter route. I was planning on going with the delid route. Dispite which verison 4,1 or 5,1 I should still see a mac boot screen after a erase the PRAM right?
If it's the resolution's problem, yes.

For PRAM reset, just hold those 4 buttons until you heard the 4th start up tone. But if that's the cause, most likely you will see the boot up screen just after the 2nd start up tone. If problem fixed, of course you can release the keys, and no need to hold them until the 4th tone.
 

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
If it's the resolution's problem, yes.

For PRAM reset, just hold those 4 buttons until you heard the 4th start up tone. But if that's the cause, most likely you will see the boot up screen just after the 2nd start up tone. If problem fixed, of course you can release the keys, and no need to hold them until the 4th tone.
Thanks, will give that a try when I get home.
 

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
Thanks, will give that a try when I get home.
Okay, resetting the PRAM fixed the problem thanks for the help guys. On another note, since I purchase this system without an OS, what is the simpliest way to load OSX on it? Since my 4,1 doesn't support internet recovery, I would have to purchase a recovery CD of some sort right? Or can I ask someone else that has a Mac to create a bootable recovery USB? If there is such thing.
 

Fl0r!an

macrumors 6502a
Aug 14, 2007
906
526
Anyone with a Mac can download OS X from the App Store and built a bootable OS X installer stick from it. Google will tell you how to do this.
 

buster84

macrumors 6502
Oct 7, 2013
396
134
Okay, resetting the PRAM fixed the problem thanks for the help guys. On another note, since I purchase this system without an OS, what is the simpliest way to load OSX on it? Since my 4,1 doesn't support internet recovery, I would have to purchase a recovery CD of some sort right? Or can I ask someone else that has a Mac to create a bootable recovery USB? If there is such thing.
I have the same video card and couldn't imagine that it wouldn't work just because of mac firmware. At the very least it would have booted when the drivers loaded. So its good that its fixed. As for the upgrade i made a good Writeup on the method and tools that i used.

You can go De-lidded if you want but dont forget that its not required; I also wouldn't be surprised if your CPU temps were lower with the lidded versions.

If you want to use lidded CPUs and save $400 then you can follow my post exactly and be just fine. If you use washers your raising the CPU by the same hight that the lids added. So the risk of crushing the pins is alot lower.

Another tip that i used to upgrade both units is to simply hand tighten all bolts until it stops moving using no force. Then once i do with with all the heat sync bolts ill give them all 1/4 a turn. CPA didnt need more than this, but CPU B did need another 1/8th on one of my units and on the other CPA needed 1/8th more and CPU B needed another 1/4th. So it does vary.

You really shouldn't need anymore than 1/2 extra turns on the bolts. So if you cant get it to boot, its best to start over by loosing them all and re-tightening them down. An overly tightened bolt will cause it to not boot as much as a loose bolt so keep that in mind when upgrading. You looking for that sweet spot.
 
Last edited:

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
I have the same video card and couldn't imagine that it wouldn't work just because of mac firmware. At the very least it would have booted when the drivers loaded. So its good that its fixed. As for the upgrade i made a good Writeup on the method and tools that i used.

You can go De-lidded if you want but dont forget that its not required; I also wouldn't be surprised if your CPU temps were lower with the lidded versions.

If you want to use lidded CPUs and save $400 then you can follow my post exactly and be just fine. If you use washers your raising the CPU by the same hight that the lids added. So the risk of crushing the pins is alot lower.

Another tip that i used to upgrade both units is to simply hand tighten all bolts until it stops moving using no force. Then once i do with with all the heat sync bolts ill give them all 1/4 a turn. CPA didnt need more than this, but CPU B did need another 1/8th on one of my units and on the other CPA needed 1/8th more and CPU B needed another 1/4th. So it does vary.

You really shouldn't need anymore than 1/2 extra turns on the bolts. So if you cant get it to boot, its best to start over by loosing them all and re-tightening them down. An overly tightened bolt will cause it to not boot as much as a loose bolt so keep that in mind when upgrading. You looking for that sweet spot.
Thanks buster84, I read that's thread and guide prior to jumping onto this Mac Pro upgrade route. I forgot to mention that I receive that 5,1( I think it is 5,1 base on the serial #) with the case damaged. I am in contact with the ebay seller to see what are the recourse. It appears most likely he will only give me a refund of $75 but I've asked for $150 as a counter. If he refuse then I'll ask for a refund and he can have this 5,1 back since it seems like a more expensive route to upgrade.

Last night a stumble upon a nice 4,1 dual cpu 2x2.66 with 36 gigs of rams and 2 19" samsung monitors for $550. So wouldn't mind return the damaged 5,1 if the seller refuse to offer a better deal on the refund.
 

buster84

macrumors 6502
Oct 7, 2013
396
134
Thanks buster84, I read that's thread and guide prior to jumping onto this Mac Pro upgrade route. I forgot to mention that I receive that 5,1( I think it is 5,1 base on the serial #) with the case damaged. I am in contact with the ebay seller to see what are the recourse. It appears most likely he will only give me a refund of $75 but I've asked for $150 as a counter. If he refuse then I'll ask for a refund and he can have this 5,1 back since it seems like a more expensive route to upgrade.

Last night a stumble upon a nice 4,1 dual cpu 2x2.66 with 36 gigs of rams and 2 19" samsung monitors for $550. So wouldn't mind return the damaged 5,1 if the seller refuse to offer a better deal on the refund.
Yeah the route you were trying to do could be cheaper if you can get the right parts at the right price, but you might have saved a big headache by buying a 2009 8 core model for $1k lol.

Well keep us updated lol.
 

revlimit

macrumors member
Original poster
Nov 13, 2011
34
0
Yeah the route you were trying to do could be cheaper if you can get the right parts at the right price, but you might have saved a big headache by buying a 2009 8 core model for $1k lol.

Well keep us updated lol.
Well the seller said he will refund $125 for the case damage for the 5,1. Might be better to return and get my money back. Paid $400 for it. It is a single cpu.
 

buster84

macrumors 6502
Oct 7, 2013
396
134
Well the seller said he will refund $125 for the case damage for the 5,1. Might be better to return and get my money back. Paid $400 for it. It is a single cpu.
At this point its probably better to keep it. If he accepts the return request then you have to pay for shipping back to him that will cost you about $80 depending on how far. The only way you'd get out of shipping would be through a not as described claim which happens after he declines your return request, but if its accepted you have to pay shipping. Its a gamble. If it was me I'd accept the $125 especially since you mentioned having an 8 core tray on the way?

Did you ever get to test it and see why the fan was blowing on full speed?
 
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