Thanks, but I’m not confused. Having a bright white pixel next to a deep black one is not uncommon, and if I’m doing serious color grading or professional imaging work, miniLED ain’t gonna cut it. Having a bunch of dimming zones just means there’s no uniformity to the image. I’d rather look at a display with a lower overall dynamic range than be confused if what I’m seeing is a problem with image capture vs just blooming artifacts.
Oh yeah, that'll solve the problem. /s
Agreed, I just bought a 2020 MBA and will be more than happy to take a small loss if this is brought to reality.
Hmmmm. How exactly do you think it works? You have an LED backlight about 80x60 pixels (I don’t remember the exact size off the top of my head). The positions of those LEDs are fixed. You have a moving image on top, with, from time to time, a 1-pixel transition from full on white to full black. You can’t make the background LED only light in part, the display has to choose a single light level for that particular block. That’s how it works. Either the white pixels will be too dark until the next block, which can go full bright, or the dark pixels will appear milky, because they can’t block all the light from the miniLED block.
I sincerely appreciate you summarizing what I wrote. I appreciate that you took the time to read my posting so that you could add more to the discussion.
Cool, thanks for adding to the discussion. Just one question, what has that got to do with the claim that miniLED is worse than a standard LED? If you get a chance please take the time to read what I posted.
I've owned something like 6 MacBooks and none of them had a battery life more than 3.5 hours (maybe close to 5 hours during the first couple of months). I do web browsing, coding, foto editing, writing, and sometimes video editing.
Keep calm, Duane, no point in getting heated. The problem is, like I mentioned, that the blocks of backlight LEDs will cause a lack of uniformity. If I’m looking at a traditionally illuminated LCD display, I know that I’m seeing an image that has dynamic range which is limited by the display itself. Either the whole panel lights up or dims. If I‘m looking at a Plasma or OLED display, I’m able to see a much higher dynamic range across the whole panel. In a local dimming arrangement, there are artifacts, which folks are calling “bleeding” which are caused by the panel’s lack of uniform lighting. The best scenario is either illuminate each pixel individually - CRT, Plasma, microLED, OLED, or illuminate the whole panel uniformly - LCD with LED backlighting. If you’re familiar with CMOS cameras, or image or video files that have been compressed, like JPEG or AVCHD, for example, you know that they compress in blocks, creating ringing and other artifacts. I can easily see being frustrated trying to work with an image where I think it’s a compression artifact, and instead it’s the bleeding that folks have pointed out on their miniLED iPad screens. If I see artifacting on my washed out LCD, I know it’s from the video source. If I see it on an OLED, for example, I know the same.
They already solved the battery issue with Apple silicon. Everybody is getting incredible battery life with Ferrari speeds. And the MacBook Pros are coming with SD card slots and more ports for people who need them.
