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Schmanky, it has been explained already in many of the threads you've replied to, and we even discussed this issue many times during the last six months.

Display panels differ. Individual panels have different characteristics. That's why you need color profiles in the first place. The profiles Apple ships with the computers are general profiles, that are for a large patch of panels. The are not tailored for the specific panel in the specific computer. And because the panels vary, the profiles might be off in some cases.

That's why you have calibrators. You make profiles that match the characteristics of the specific panel. The profiles bring the display close to some ideal, and whatever that is, is chosen during calibration.



The profiles will mostly be usable on your screen only. Or one that happens to match it closely (like mine does).

The profiles you have posted earlier (I have not yet checked the ones you posted above) are from a display that is originally fairly close to 6500K white point, and they change very little, as you had chosen 6500K as the target white point during calibration.

6500K will appear yellow compared to many displays in their factory settings.

6500K white point, 120cd/m^2 luminance and 2.2 gamma are often the default settings in calibration software. If you want to calibrate to a cooler white point, choose one during calibration. Or better yet, measure the display you want to match, it's very easy with your Spyder4 Elite.

Just a question though - I've noticed on mine with a different calibration profile that the one that ships with the screen that it doesn't apply immediately upon boot-up. It only does after the login screen with my password appears. I can see the grey background change hue. Is this normal? Can't there be a profile that the screen instantly turns on with - replacing the 'native' one?
 
Most users aren't concerned with perfect color accuracy for precision image work. Those who are will need to calibrate anyway. What the average user is going to notice is that their screen looks like it has tobacco stains and that calibrating it out reduces their contrast. If Apple can't get these guys to lock down that range they need to move the target up to like 6800K just to avoid the pee-yellow displays.

Very true. The situation seems hardly ideal.

Most users have no idea what different gamma curves, luminance levels or white points mean. And they shouldn't. But if the users don't know what these setting mean or how to change them, the results are not going to be good. The problem is, that most software shipped with calibration devices default to sRGB settings that will make colors seem murky compared to the defaults of many displays.

Some calibration devices, like Spyder4Elite and i1 Display Pro have a display match feature, that measures the target values from another display, including luminance, gamma and contrast, and tries to match the calibrated display as closely as possible. Not all calibration kits have this feature though, and it might not be very easy to use.

Just a question though - I've noticed on mine with a different calibration profile that the one that ships with the screen that it doesn't apply immediately upon boot-up. It only does after the login screen with my password appears. I can see the grey background change hue. Is this normal? Can't there be a profile that the screen instantly turns on with - replacing the 'native' one?

For some reason the profile is assigned to your user only, and not for the whole system as it should be. I don't know why that would be, changing a profile as a user with administrator privileges should change the profile to all users.

You could try enabling root user, changing the profile with it, and see if that does the trick. Disable the root user again afterwards.
 
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What the average user is going to notice is that their screen looks like it has tobacco stains and that calibrating it out reduces their contrast. If Apple can't get these guys to lock down that range they need to move the target up to like 6800K just to avoid the pee-yellow displays.

Thank you very much for your lengthy response.

Is the only problem with these displays the native white point? Because if that were true then I should be able to manually move the white point up past 7000 K at the cost of brightness, as you said. But it never looks clear the way my first display looked clear; it always has the tobacco stains. I can use my Spyder4Elite to calibrate it to 6500 K or 7500 K, but the colours are still muddy and I find it very hard to believe that an artist would find these colours correct. I find it hard to believe that the only problem with these displays is the native white point. If that were true then all the people telling me to "just calibrate it" would be correct and I would have left already. But nothing helps to make the display look clear; not moving the white point, not calibrating it, nothing. And when I say "clear" I'm talking about the first display I had on this machine. The difference between the two displays can't just be native white point.
 
Very true. The situation seems hardly ideal.

Most users have no idea what different gamma curves, luminance levels or white points mean. And they shouldn't. But if the users don't know what these setting mean or how to change them, the results are not going to be good. The problem is, that most software shipped with calibration devices default to sRGB settings that will make colors seem murky compared to the defaults of many displays.

Some calibration devices, like Spyder4Elite and i1 Display Pro have a display match feature, that measures the target values from another display, including luminance, gamma and contrast, and tries to match the calibrated display as closely as possible. Not all calibration kits have this feature though, and it might not be very easy to use.



For some reason the profile is assigned to your user only, and not for the whole system as it should be. I don't know why that would be, changing a profile as a user with administrator privileges should change the profile to all users.

You could try enabling root user, changing the profile with it, and see if that does the trick. Disable the root user again afterwards.

Thank you for the advice, I did give it a go. Alas, it won't force the computer to boot up with the calibration.
 
Thank you for the advice, I did give it a go. Alas, it won't force the computer to boot up with the calibration.

Is the profile loaded in the login screen before you log in, or after you log in? If the former, that's as good as it gets.

The profile can not be loaded before the OS and graphics drivers are finished loading. You won't get the profile in the gray screen with the Apple logo.

If that was what you were originally asking, I misunderstood your question. Sorry. :eek:
 
Is the profile loaded in the login screen before you log in, or after you log in? If the former, that's as good as it gets.

The profile can not be loaded before the OS and graphics drivers are finished loading. You won't get the profile in the gray screen with the Apple logo.

If that was what you were originally asking, I misunderstood your question. Sorry. :eek:

No, it switches profiles on the login screen. But it's not instantaneous - I can see the change. I see the circle with my account photo and password box and a couple seconds later, it changes. :) Thank you for your help!
 
You may not know it, but a yellowish tone is easier and healthier on the eyes. In fact a blueish color (the blue frequency of LED) works against the eyes and can even damage them. When you buy screen glasses they always come in a yellowish/orange color.

Changing contrast and color settings can only compensate the base tone for a small amount. So if I were you, I'd better stay on the yellowish screen.
 
It's hard to just make a call by just looking at the attached image, I believe the retina panel is on the warm side. If warm color is not your taste, you should be able to go through the calibration like other said and change the temperature to a cooler.
 
These calibrators, how do they work?
Do you need to have some app on in the background all the time?
Or does it create a OSX profile you just load in Screen settings?

Do they calibrate automatically, or do you have to draw sliders your self and it will say when its "right"?
And how do they do it on TV's? There are like 50 different settings, and you cant load profiles on the TV's, so the calibrating must be a pain right?

Iv'e never used one of these so i have no idea really how they work.
How ever when they do screen tests on reviews, you can see the graphs. But those graphs almost never are able to replicate the "right" values.
So do these calibrators just do it as good as it gets?


And one last question. :)
Can you recommend some cheap calibrator that is not hard to use.
I don't need super perfection, since i don't do professional work. But a good calibrated screen would be nice.
I've always wanted one to calibrate my TV's and computer screens. But I don't want to spend a lot of cash on it.
 
These calibrators, how do they work?
Do you need to have some app on in the background all the time?
Or does it create a OSX profile you just load in Screen settings?

Do they calibrate automatically, or do you have to draw sliders your self and it will say when its "right"?
And how do they do it on TV's? There are like 50 different settings, and you cant load profiles on the TV's, so the calibrating must be a pain right?

Iv'e never used one of these so i have no idea really how they work.
How ever when they do screen tests on reviews, you can see the graphs. But those graphs almost never are able to replicate the "right" values.
So do these calibrators just do it as good as it gets?


And one last question. :)
Can you recommend some cheap calibrator that is not hard to use.
I don't need super perfection, since i don't do professional work. But a good calibrated screen would be nice.
I've always wanted one to calibrate my TV's and computer screens. But I don't want to spend a lot of cash on it.

I suggest you take a look at an eBook, that answers all those questions. Color perception, profiling, all basics very clearly explained.

Practical Colour Management v5 - eBook PDF

Downloading the book requires you to subscribe to a mailing list, but you can unsubscribe once you've downloaded the book (it actually tells you about this on the download page).
 
I've spent hours calibrating mine. The yellow is just inherent in the Samsung screen. If the yellow tint is rather moderate like mine, live a blissful life and pretend it doesn't exist.

If it's extreme, then go on and make a Genius appointment.
 
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Mine is regular for the top 3/4's of my screen, but the bottom half has a slight yellowish tint. Its annoying as hell, plus my keyboard and trackpad locks up when it feels like it. 1st Mac....:mad:
 
Mine is regular for the top 3/4's of my screen, but the bottom half has a slight yellowish tint. Its annoying as hell, plus my keyboard and trackpad locks up when it feels like it. 1st Mac....:mad:

If the display is not uniform, it's defective. Partial yellow or purple tint are common manufacturing defects in IPS panels.

If you are within the 14-day return period, send it back.
 
BTW: The left looks about right to me... whereas the right isn't even white... it's a grey blue white... like my white shirt that got mixed in with the blacks last week.

aiyaaabatt... is winding u up.

lolol. Raybies must be looking at the picture through his yellow tinted monitor. Or color blind.
 
lolol. Raybies must be looking at the picture through his yellow tinted monitor. Or color blind.

If his monitor is yellow tinted, then any yellow in the image will be even more pronounced..

Without knowing the white points of the displays, or the camera, you have no way of saying which one is neutral.
 
If his monitor is yellow tinted, then any yellow in the image will be even more pronounced..

Without knowing the white points of the displays, or the camera, you have no way of saying which one is neutral.

Ya, I realized this about a minute after I wrote it. :)
 
You guys are welcome to use my color profile. This is a profile created with X-Rite ColorMunki. The env was: natural sun light room day time.
 
You guys are welcome to use my color profile. This is a profile created with X-Rite ColorMunki. The env was: natural sun light room day time.

Oops!! I thought, I attached a file.. let's try again. I guess, I can only attached certain type of file. I just zipped it. You might want to unzip it first before you can use it.

Oh, my panel is A022, LSN.
 

Attachments

  • Color LCD_D65.icc.zip
    20.7 KB · Views: 109
Oops!! I thought, I attached a file.. let's try again. I guess, I can only attached certain type of file. I just zipped it. You might want to unzip it first before you can use it.

Oh, my panel is A022, LSN.

Thanks for sharing. I downloaded it, but could you tell me how to apply it to my retina screen profile? (I've never tried before)

Thanks,

Edit* Nevermind, google told me. :)
 
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You guys are welcome to use my color profile. This is a profile created with X-Rite ColorMunki. The env was: natural sun light room day time.

Thanks for sharing. I downloaded it, but could you tell me how to apply it to my retina screen profile? (I've never tried before)

Thanks,

I just borrowed this from Adobe web site:

To install the Adobe ICC profiles on Mac OS X:

Install profiles in one of two locations.

Copy all of the ICC profiles to the \Users\Library\ColorSync\Profiles folder. Profiles installed in this location will be available only to the user who installed the profiles.

or

Copy all of the ICC profile files included in this archive to the \Library\ColorSync\Profiles folder. Installing in this location requires the user to be an administrator of the system. Profiles installed in this location will be available to all users.

Once you installed it, you need to go to system pref->Displays->Color and select the one you just installed.
 
If the display is not uniform, it's defective. Partial yellow or purple tint are common manufacturing defects in IPS panels.

If you are within the 14-day return period, send it back.
Thanks for the info, I threw away the shipping box. If I go to the Apple store will they handle it?
 
the 15'' haswell that I'm using now is a samsung display. And I have another one same spec that is a samsung display, and my whites are white. It's not a bad batch, its a bad unit. Exchange it for another and chances are it will have much better whites.

I agree, I have the 15" with a samsung display and it's flawless white, I had to return 4 macs till I got a perfect one, if I were you I would take it back till I get a good one.
 
I agree, I have the 15" with a samsung display and it's flawless white, I had to return 4 macs till I got a perfect one, if I were you I would take it back till I get a good one.

Yeah, I'm really considering your advice, but I'm also a little afraid that Apple may have records for that. I mean they will know if you keep exchanging or returning stuff, right?
 
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