Late 2015 iMac 27”: Upgrade to NVMe SSD - and remove stock HDD

[Jumme_Cph]

So. I recently purchased a late 2015 27” iMac with only HDD.
I want to completely remove the stock HDD, and install a NVMe (pcie) SSD as the only drive.

I already purchased: Glue cutter, new glue set, 2TB Samsung EVO 970 Plus SSD.

Questions are:

A) It’s my understanding that my iMac will definitely(!) have a pcie port at the mainboard backside - even though it didn’t come with a (fusion drive) PCIe SSD - correct?

B) Removing the stock HDD completely - will I need to take any temp sensor in to consideration - even I’m NOT installing any SATA SSD? Or is it only if upgrading HDD to SATA SSD?

C) Any thing else to take into consideration?

Note: I successfully took 10-15 “2009-2011” iMacs apart completely and restored, so the task itself is more or less a no brainier. Except aspects above.

 

[TwoH]

Yes, your 27" will definitely have this port on the back - it is only the 21.5" that I believe some models do not come with it by default.

Make sure to remove the SATA cable too alongside the HDD as your iMac will ramp the fans up otherwise.

Just be slow, and careful, especially with taking the LCD off. Make sure to disconnect the LVDS and backlight cables before completely removing the screen.

Remove/cut the bottom tapes from the lcd before taking it off else it will be hard to remove from the case.

Be wary of the power button cable which goes through the left speaker - do not fully bring the speaker all the way up, stop as soon as the power button cable is visible, and move it out the way.

Ensure the iMac is completely unplugged and has no power - you will have to remove the PSU to get behind the logicboard.

And know NVMe with late 2015 comes with the sleep/wake issue - make sure you have read up on the thread dedicated to this to stop it from happening.

 

[Jumme_Cph]

Make sure to remove the SATA cable too alongside the HDD as your iMac will ramp the fans up otherwise.

This was EXACTLY the answer I was looking for. Otherwise I would normally have left the cable for any future re-installation.

And know NVMe with late 2015 comes with the sleep/wake issue - make sure you have read up on the thread dedicated to this to stop it from happening.

Crap, didn’t know. What thread??
Will search, THANKS!!

 

[TwoH]

Crap, didn’t know. What thread??
Will search, THANKS!!

A list of successful iMac 27" (2012-2019) SSD upgrades

Here you can find and discuss all the collected knowledge regarding upgrading the HDD, blade SSD and CPU of a 27" iMac 2012-2019, as well as a list of performed upgrades. Here is a list of all 27" iMac models subjected in this thread: Late 2012 - 13.2 - MD095LL/A (2.9Ghz i5-3470S, HDD only /...

forums.macrumors.com

Here you go, this is the thread.

 

[Jumme_Cph]

A list of successful iMac 27" (2012-2019) SSD upgrades

Here you can find and discuss all the collected knowledge regarding upgrading the HDD, blade SSD and CPU of a 27" iMac 2012-2019, as well as a list of performed upgrades. Here is a list of all 27" iMac models subjected in this thread: Late 2012 - 13.2 - MD095LL/A (2.9Ghz i5-3470S, HDD only /...

forums.macrumors.com

Here you go, this is the thread.

Searched and found, THANKS champ.

 

[sydney_kings]

Do the sleep/wake issues still occur with the latest firmware for the 970 Evo Plus?

 

[Jumme_Cph]

Do the sleep/wake issues still occur with the latest firmware for the 970 Evo Plus?

It is my understanding that the sleep/wake problem is related to ALL iMacs before 2017, due to an incompatibility in the iMac firmware itself, not to the SSD’s.

There was a iMac bootrom update few days ago, and I will give you an update once I get the EVO PLUS installed.. hopefully tomorrow (still waiting for an NVMe cooler).

My Samsung EVO PLUS 2TB has a production date of 2019-08-22, and already had the new firmware.

I tried updating it 10 minutes ago following this very helpful guide for flashing the firmware in a Mac.

 

[Jumme_Cph]

Remove/cut the bottom tapes from the lcd before taking it off else it will be hard to remove from the case.

I REALLY feel like an idiot asking this - and now it’s maybe too late.

Removing the adhesive strips from my 27” Late 2015 iMac, I found the tape a bit thick and kind of foamy-black.

Upon examining the reinstallment-tape (got from EBay) it just looks like clean thin adhesive strips. Without black foam.

Reading the comments on iFixit, one user insists NOT removing “the black foamy layer” but keep it be for reassembling.

I removed EVERYTHING and is left with bare plastic/metal surfaces? Is this incorrect??

THANKS! 🙏🏽

 

[TwoH]

I REALLY feel like an idiot asking this - and now it’s maybe too late.

Removing the adhesive strips from my 27” Late 2015 iMac, I found the tape a bit thick and kind of foamy-black.

Upon examining the reinstallment-tape (got from EBay) it just looks like clean thin adhesive strips. Without black foam.

Reading the comments on iFixit, one user insists NOT removing “the black foamy layer” but keep it be for reassembling.

I removed EVERYTHING and is left with bare plastic/metal surfaces? Is this incorrect??

THANKS! 🙏🏽

I always remove all of the old tape, and always install all the new tape - the tape you would have got from eBay will be more close to double-sided tape adhesive (same as OWC tape) - which will work for keeping the LCD stuck to the machine, but will make it harder to remove if you ever have to again. These third party type tapes are usually pretty cheap too.

Yeah, the tapes are foamy - this is to make it easier to get into the machines, as you are cutting the foam layer inbetween the adhesive - instead of the adhesive itself.

I prefer the foam-type tapes, and it is possible to find these on eBay, but it does take quite a bit of searching around for. I know Bookyard have a stock of iMac "Apple original" tape - but are quite expensive compared to third party tapes.
Makes it a lot easier for if you ever have to take the iMac apart again.

Not to threat too much if you have already stuck the LCD down with the third-party tape, it is possible to take it apart again - will just take more time and care.

 

[Jumme_Cph]

I always remove all of the old tape, and always install all the new tape - the tape you would have got from eBay will be more close to double-sided tape adhesive (same as OWC tape) - which will work for keeping the LCD stuck to the machine, but will make it harder to remove if you ever have to again. These third party type tapes are usually pretty cheap too.

Yeah, the tapes are foamy - this is to make it easier to get into the machines, as you are cutting the foam layer inbetween the adhesive - instead of the adhesive itself.

I prefer the foam-type tapes, and it is possible to find these on eBay, but it does take quite a bit of searching around for. I know Bookyard have a stock of iMac "Apple original" tape - but are quite expensive compared to third party tapes.
Makes it a lot easier for if you ever have to take the iMac apart again.

Not to threat too much if you have already stuck the LCD down with the third-party tape, it is possible to take it apart again - will just take more time and care.

God damn it Blake, I thought I’ve done everything right. Apparently not.

I have no chance sourcing the correct aftermarket ‘foam’ tape so though I did not yet put it back together, just gotta stick with what I’ve got.
Just really annoying in case I’ve gotta take it apart again.
Even bought 4 sets to have spares. 🤦🏽‍♂️

Thanks, your reply was of great help and VERY detailed. Owe you one. 👍🏽👍🏽

 

[||\||]

I REALLY feel like an idiot asking this - and now it’s maybe too late.

Removing the adhesive strips from my 27” Late 2015 iMac, I found the tape a bit thick and kind of foamy-black.

Upon examining the reinstallment-tape (got from EBay) it just looks like clean thin adhesive strips. Without black foam.

Reading the comments on iFixit, one user insists NOT removing “the black foamy layer” but keep it be for reassembling.

I removed EVERYTHING and is left with bare plastic/metal surfaces? Is this incorrect??

THANKS! 🙏🏽

You will also notice a lot of folks complaining that their screen fell off and smashed on the ground days later.

Remove all evidence of tape. Clean the area with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Apply new tape. If you want to be certain everything will hold, use masking tape around the outside edges to hold the screen in place for a few days while everything sets.

 

[Jumme_Cph]

You will also notice a lot of folks complaining that their screen fell off and smashed on the ground days later.

Remove all evidence of tape. Clean the area with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Apply new tape. If you want to be certain everything will hold, use masking tape around the outside edges to hold the screen in place for a few days while everything sets.

I was planning on exact same but heating a bit with heat gun upon installation and then laying the Mac face down to pressure the new bonding.

We will see. Thanks for your reply, is comforting.

 

[||\||]

I was planning on exact same but heating a bit with heat gun upon installation and then laying the Mac face down to pressure the new bonding.

We will see. Thanks for your reply, is comforting.

Having been through the process, I would advise against using heat. You don't need to and it might damage components. The original tape will peel off. Even the rubbery film it sometimes leaves will eventually peel off clean. I am afraid you might damage the new adhesive if you heat it up. I think time is really the best thing. And make sure the edges are very clean before applying the adhesive. Use 90% rubbing alcohol. Just wrap some masking tape around the outside edges, press hard and leave it for a few days. You can use the computer as normal during this time. I suspect the people who lost their screens didn't clean the area and left old residue behind.

 

[anthem70]

Make sure to remove the SATA cable too alongside the HDD as your iMac will ramp the fans up otherwise.

This is the only area I have seen removing the sata cable when putting a nvme drive in a 2015 imac 27". fans seem fine and not ramping up on my test runs before sealing this bad boy up. Where is that info coming from if you don't mind me asking. I don't want to remove the logic board AGAIN for no good reason. Thanks in advance for a reply.

 

[macguru9999]

You will also notice a lot of folks complaining that their screen fell off and smashed on the ground days later.

Remove all evidence of tape. Clean the area with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Apply new tape. If you want to be certain everything will hold, use masking tape around the outside edges to hold the screen in place for a few days while everything sets.

Yep, almost happened to me the first time. The 21" screen came loose but did not drop. Since then i have done about a hundred of these jobs but I never take off all the old tape because I am just too damn lazy ! I hardly ever take the screen all the way off, at least to change the hard drive to an SSD (you can pivot it up if you leave the bottom stuck on). Obviously you have to get it off to change the power supply or remove the mobo. When replacing I lay strips of the thin tape over the foam, BUT I also put a thin strip of kapton tape along the top edge (of the glass and frame) and tell people to leave it there. Never had a problem. You have to remember to cut a little notch for the microphone, thats all ! Its better to have a job where its easy to go back in, I have seen some imacs where the repairer has added a dollop of silicone glue, and then you cannot get it open without cracking the screen, so I pass on those jobs...

 

[TwoH]

This is the only area I have seen removing the sata cable when putting a nvme drive in a 2015 imac 27". fans seem fine and not ramping up on my test runs before sealing this bad boy up. Where is that info coming from if you don't mind me asking. I don't want to remove the logic board AGAIN for no good reason. Thanks in advance for a reply.

Hey, I’ve had this happen on all iMacs I’ve worked on. Do you still have a hdd or ssd connected to the Sata cable? As this will not cause it to ramp - only if there is nothing presently connected to it.

It has been a while since ive had a look at it to be fair - in my mind how I’m remembering it, it’s much less of a sudden ramp, and more of an incremental climb in fan speeds, and will then periodically slow back down the fans speeds again and start the same process. But I might be getting that confused with the 2011 model.

Either way, in my experience working on these a lot, sata cable needs to be removed if going flash/nvme only. But I wouldn’t threat too much if you’re not having the issue 👍

 

[macguru9999]

Its all in the first post here ...

A list of successful iMac 27" (2012-2019) SSD upgrades

Here you can find and discuss all the collected knowledge regarding upgrading the HDD, blade SSD and CPU of a 27" iMac 2012-2019, as well as a list of performed upgrades. Here is a list of all 27" iMac models subjected in this thread: Late 2012 - 13.2 - MD095LL/A (2.9Ghz i5-3470S, HDD only /...

forums.macrumors.com

I would not use an nvme, but rather an apple drive (used from ebay) if you feel you must have an ssd plugged into the mobo of a pre 2017. I just use a sata ssd to replace the spinner, up to 2tb so far but you can buy bigger. I used to do fusion replacements but i dont think they are a good idea it was only to save money on the ssd, but they are getting cheaper.