Ok, if I may pitch in.
Please bear in mind one thing: with ANY Macro you will need a tripod (...)
This is simply not true. I have been taking macros for 5 years and have never used a tripod. What you will need (if you don't have a studio setup) is control over lighting. This can be anything from the camera's
built in flash to a dedicated
macro ring flash (arachnophobes beware) to an
external flash with a diffuser, or simply
ambient light (provided there's enough of it). You may even use combinations of these options, like
ambient light with fill flash from the camera.
A tripod is only practical (in my experience) in a studio setup, or if you have ample time, space and a non-moving subject in the field. Even then you'd need not only the tripod, which is an added expense, but also a macro focusing rail, preferably one that moves both laterally and towards/away from the subject. My subjects are almost always in places/positions that
don't allow the use of tripods (again, arachnophobes beware).
If you control your own lighting, you can get shots at 1/200, F/10 and ISO 200, like my shot with the diffuser (shown above, at 2:1 magnification). The lighting is key in getting a great shot. If your lighting is bland, it will result in a bland image, no matter how well focused it is. If you have good lighting, then the resulting shot will stand out more. Examples:
Shot with bland lighting.
Shot with better lighting.
Both shots are of the same subject, taken less than a minute apart under different lighting conditions. There is no way I could get a tripod setup to take a shot of something on my living room ceiling.
😛
Regardless of which lens you choose, plan on how you're going to light your subject. That said, one of the most important aspects you should take into consideration when choosing a macro lens is working distance (distance from the subject to the front element of the lens). Shorter lenses (50-60mm) usually have a 10cm working distance, while longer lenses have a greater working distance. My Canon 100mm macro has a working distance of 15 cm alone and ~11 cm when using 68mm of extension tubes. For moving subjects (insects, spiders and the like), I've found that the working distance is great. Any closer and I'd scare them away.