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andrewfee said:
I've had an interest in photography for some time now, and have been planning on getting a new camera for a few months. (I'm stuck with a cheap 3.1mp camera right now)

I had initially been looking at something like the Powershot G6 or the Powershot Pro1, but I think that if I bought one of them, I'd end up wanting to buy something better in 6 months time, which is why I'm thinking of getting a D-SLR.

Admittedly I don't know a huge ammount about "proper" photography right now (I've been reading up on it lately, and have just read all of Canon's "Digital Learning Centre" which helped) and it looks like I could pick up the basics pretty quickly.

I'm wanting to get something that will be able to expand with me as I learn more about using the camera, which is why I don't like the idea of buying a fixed-lens camera. (or one with a very limited selection)


I'm thinking of saving for a month or two and spending a max of around £1000, and was wondering what was the best way to spend my money would be? (if something cheaper is recommended, I would be able to get it sooner, which is why I'm asking now)



What I'm currently looking at is to buy the new Canon EOS 350D Kit (£800, only £50 more than the body) with a "Sandisk 1GB ULTRA II Compact Flash" card (£90) and I'm sure I read somewhere that as a starting lens, other than the kit one, the "Canon EF50mm f/1.8 ll Lens" is the best money you can spend, at £80.

From looking at various sites, it seems that the 350D is perfectly suited for someone like me who wants to get started with an SLR, as it has full-auto settings, partially auto settings, and a full-manual mode.

Is this the best option for me to go with, or (within that budget) could I be spending my money better?

You know, the D2h with it's price drop, might be a decent idea. Cameta Camera's in NY has some good deals on ebay, and they ship worldwide.

D2h with 18-70dx, 1gb 80x CF card, case and CF reader, brand new, $2319.95 USD

D2h with 18-70dx lens, $1899.99

I currently am shooting with a D2h, and the results and image quality are OUTSTANDING. The color is excellent, Auto White Balance works VERY well, it's fast, and has a program mode and some good options for jpg that should get you some awesome results straight from the camera (I shoot it with RAW+JPG and the jpgs are VERY close to the raw).

And don't worry about 4mp, i've enlarged my D2h photos up to 24x36 with no problem. Plus you get a ROBUST camera body, it's the best feeling body around, built like a tank but not heavy, you get the 18-70dx which is ~28-105 on your DSLR, and EVERY (and i mean EVERY) crucial camera control is accessible with a slight movement of the finger. The 11 AF points are incredible, fast and grab lots of detail, even in low light, and for long exposures, noise is non-existant.

It's really the best buy at $1999, formerly $3200 until Nikon slashed prices. I think you'd be VERY well off with this camera, and it's able to be set up in a manner that allows for P&S type shooting, but will grow with you as you learn the machine. It's definitely a great choice if you're thinking about learning about photography.

If you think the D2h might be in your range, let me know via PM or email and i'll answer any questions you might have. Like chip said, you don't want to underbuy and with the D2h at $1999 and these deals from Cameta... I think it's worth a strong look. And that 18-70dx included is a GREAT lens. If i were on the fence between the 20d and kit lens vs. the D2h + 18-70 i'd be in for a VERY tough decision.....
 
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Moxiemike said:
And don't worry about 4mp, i've enlarged my D2h photos up to 24x36 with no problem.

True, you can do this without much "problem", for its only a couple of keystrokes in Adobe Photoshop to tell it to do such an IMO bad idea.

The only real question is if the photographer is going to be happy with the results of such an enlargement (as Mike was here). This ultimately depends on the personal preferences of the person viewing the image.

The Physics based approach easily finds that a scaler enlargement to 24" x 36" from a 4MP sensor means that each pixel gets enlarged to roughly 1/64th of an inch in size. This is a bit less worse than 70dpi, which means that the image is roughly equivalent to the "coarse" grade newspaper photo, athough you've helped it out by better paper stock...its probably going to be roughly equal to a glossy paper advertising section.

OTOH, if you want "movie poster" quality, you need to roughly double your dpi's up into the "good quality offset lithography" level of print qualty, which is a data density of 133-155 lpi. Do the math to see the implications for how many MP this actually requires (hint: 2x linear x 2 dimensions equals ...).

This really is a subject area that is very open to personal preference. Personally, I don't generally merely want my prints to "look nice" from the far side of a room, but I want them to stand up to scrutiny from ~2ft away too.

For example, I have an 8x10 print hanging up that I took when my wife & I first got married. It was taken with ISO 400 film and the "obvious" grain in it absolutely drives me up the wall, and I would take it down in an instant and *burn it* if not for the fact that my wife adores the photo, looks right past its shortcomings and will not allow me to take it down...different strokes for different folks.


{the Nikon D2h is} really the best buy at $1999

Overall, there's a reason why this camera is being heavily discounted.

And since very good PhD-style 4MP cameras exist for $200, I'd have to disagree that its effectively worth an extra ~$1800 for the SLR form factor. Granted, I do agree that some features are worth something...simply not that it represents "$1800 worth" of value-added.


If i were on the fence between the 20d and kit lens vs. the D2h + 18-70 i'd be in for a VERY tough decision.....

If you normalize the price, its a bit easier of a decision:

a) Nikon D2h + 18-70mm lens is $1900 (from above)
b) Canon 20D + "kit lens" = $1350

or you can upgrade the Canon lens a bit...

c) Canon 20D + EF 28-135mm IS lens is $1300 + $400 = $1700
d) Canon 20D + EF-S 17-85mm IS lens is $1300 + $700 = $2000

Considering just these, they're either cheaper or comparable to the Nikon, and since the 20D has twice as many pixels, may be the edge even when the price is the identical.

Granted, there's still other feature elements to sort out to decide what they're worth, but each brand has its particular strengths and weaknesses. However, for the most part, these difference will matter only to the more generally advanced photographers who have already sorted out what sub-specializations within photography they're interested in, which doesn't apply here to the OP.

Similarly, even though the lens we're suggesting is a "better quality" lens, if we really had any alledgedly specialized needs, we also wouldn't be picking a general purpose lens for either brand...QED!


-hh

PS: when you don't use Ebay for prices on the Nikon, the D2h goes for roughly $2000 and the lens for another $300. Caveat Emptor.
 
-hh said:
True, you can do this without much "problem", for its only a couple of keystrokes in Adobe Photoshop to tell it to do such an IMO bad idea.

The only real question is if the photographer is going to be happy with the results of such an enlargement (as Mike was here). This ultimately depends on the personal preferences of the person viewing the image.

The Physics based approach easily finds that a scaler enlargement to 24" x 36" from a 4MP sensor means that each pixel gets enlarged to roughly 1/64th of an inch in size. This is a bit less worse than 70dpi, which means that the image is roughly equivalent to the "coarse" grade newspaper photo, athough you've helped it out by better paper stock...its probably going to be roughly equal to a glossy paper advertising section.

OTOH, if you want "movie poster" quality, you need to roughly double your dpi's up into the "good quality offset lithography" level of print qualty, which is a data density of 133-155 lpi. Do the math to see the implications for how many MP this actually requires (hint: 2x linear x 2 dimensions equals ...).

This really is a subject area that is very open to personal preference. Personally, I don't generally merely want my prints to "look nice" from the far side of a room, but I want them to stand up to scrutiny from ~2ft away too.

For example, I have an 8x10 print hanging up that I took when my wife & I first got married. It was taken with ISO 400 film and the "obvious" grain in it absolutely drives me up the wall, and I would take it down in an instant and *burn it* if not for the fact that my wife adores the photo, looks right past its shortcomings and will not allow me to take it down...different strokes for different folks.




Overall, there's a reason why this camera is being heavily discounted.

And since very good PhD-style 4MP cameras exist for $200, I'd have to disagree that its effectively worth an extra ~$1800 for the SLR form factor. Granted, I do agree that some features are worth something...simply not that it represents "$1800 worth" of value-added.




If you normalize the price, its a bit easier of a decision:

a) Nikon D2h + 18-70mm lens is $1900 (from above)
b) Canon 20D + "kit lens" = $1350

or you can upgrade the Canon lens a bit...

c) Canon 20D + EF 28-135mm IS lens is $1300 + $400 = $1700
d) Canon 20D + EF-S 17-85mm IS lens is $1300 + $700 = $2000

Considering just these, they're either cheaper or comparable to the Nikon, and since the 20D has twice as many pixels, may be the edge even when the price is the identical.

Granted, there's still other feature elements to sort out to decide what they're worth, but each brand has its particular strengths and weaknesses. However, for the most part, these difference will matter only to the more generally advanced photographers who have already sorted out what sub-specializations within photography they're interested in, which doesn't apply here to the OP.

Similarly, even though the lens we're suggesting is a "better quality" lens, if we really had any alledgedly specialized needs, we also wouldn't be picking a general purpose lens for either brand...QED!


-hh

PS: when you don't use Ebay for prices on the Nikon, the D2h goes for roughly $2000 and the lens for another $300. Caveat Emptor.

A couple of things to mention, that you fail to. Your "PhD 4mp camera" which i'm assuming you mean a P&S cam, has an infinitely smaller sensor. IMHO, a professional SLR sensor, which the 20d (or the d70 for that matter) is not, has a better quality picture. The photosites react differently in a pro camera. I don't know all the science, but i can see a HUGE difference in the photos from my D2h when compared to my D100 or my 10d samples.

To compare this camera to the 20d is a bit preposterous, on price alone, because it's not REALLY a pro camera-- it's a comsumer camera with LOTS of pro features. The d2h more solidy would compare to the 1d or 1d mkII, the latter is only availble new for ~$4500 and the former used ~2200.

The OP wanted a camera that they won't outgrow, hence trepidation with buying a powershot or coolpix, and with good reason. The FOTM is that the Nikon offers a pro body, with pro build and a LOT of features that would give this person a lot of room to grow. And with a price of $2000, it'll hold it's value should the buyer decide in a year that 4mp isn't enough and they want to buy a D2x (or a 1d mk II even).

If the poster plans to shoot their kids sports games, a D2h trounces the 20d/d70 line of cameras, simply because it's AF is world class--fast and accurate, and the BIG viewfinder is an added plus, along with being able to do 8fps. If they're looking to do family photos at holidays, etc, iTTL is reason alone to look at the Nikon series, as iTTL is a fantastic system, on both the D2h and D70. Nikon's pro metering is fantastic too, offering spot metering (something the 20d doesn't do as far as I know. I know the 10d didn't and the DRebel mk I didn't do it, only the pro canon's) which would be helpful if you're shooting available light in say, a concert hall for a child's recital. It also has an excellent and accurate matrix meter and the classic center weighted metering, the matrix plays WAY nice with iTTL. FYI, the D70 shares MANY metering characteristics with the D2h. ;)

Sure, all of these are theoreticals, but if the poster wants a camera to grow with, the D2h wouldn't be a poor choice at all. And I doubt they will enlarge to huge sizes, but as i've said, without interpolation software, i've done enlargements to double truck size for some various magazines i'm published in and the results are stellar.

I'd say if you go this route (DSLR ANYTHING), definitely spend time learning photoshop, it's essential, canon or nikon.

So based on MP alone the 20d kicks the D2h's arse on paper. BUT, in reality, the feature set, the 2.5 LCD (though a little inaccurate), the metering and iTTL make it really a good competitor to the 20d. You can't go wrong with either, but I think that the D2h deserves some consideration-- and many won't, simply because they go into Ritz and see Rebels, D100s, D70s, and 20d's. They don't get to see the "pro" offerings.

So many won't take into account the D2h which is priced in the "pro-sumer" range, and is a serious candidate.

That said, I don't think Canon has any right selling a $199 body with a $80 lens for a grand, 8mp or not. I don't think Nikon has any right selling a $250 body with a $200 lens for $1299, rebates notwithstanding.

Hopefully, Nikon comes out with a D50 (rumored) which would be a 6mp d70 style cam that would start, with a 28-80 equivalent DX lens for $599. Now THAT'S where we need to go re: pricing of DSLRs, which is could be a whole other thread.

Lastly, given the quality of pro sensors with the D2h/1d/D2x/1ds series, it'd be better for the poster to get an accurate 4mp, sharp, colorful, and in focus than get 8mp with a slower af causing you to miss keepers, which might not be as sharp or suffer from back focusing (which seems to be a common problem with the consumer level DSLRs). I know too many canon owners who have to send their lenses in for adjustment. Same with D70 owners.

I'd give a serious look to the D2h, you'll never want to touch a "consumer" level camera again. I love my D100 but sometimes I don't even want to pick it up-- it's a bit of a downer after using the D2h. And I think the D100 has the most robust feel of the prosumer cams i've used (10d, Rebel mk I, D30, Fuji S2, D70) and i'm sure it's on par with the 20d and i'm sure it crushes the rebels. (which it's universally agreed that the build quality is less than, um, robust, by many pros and prosumers alike).
 
Benj said:
If you are serious about your (digital) photography the SLR is the only way to go. Even the most pro "prosumer" models are difficult to override and do not deliver the flexibility of shooting styles and lenses. Also, if you want to shoot RAW, as far as I know none of the non SLR cameras have it right yet. (Plus given how cheap Canon DSLRs are now the price is not such an issue.)
[...]
Really the Canon S400 has been great for most photography - some absolutely amazing outdoor shots. And it's so easy to take alongThe drawback has been in low light. In the past few days, I've been reading alot about the difficulty of low-light shots on digital cameras. One huge difference between DSLR's and non-DSLR's (even the high end "prosumer" ones) is the size of the sensor (CCD or CMOS). Apparently larger sensors are in general much more able to gather light in dim settings, and the lower pixel density allows for less noise, even at higher ISO's.

Thus, even if you want to use just automatic settings, you still need an SLR to get great pictures in low light. (Versus using film for low light situations.) It's interesting that there is yet to come to market more of a Point-and-shoot or even Prosumer non-SLR that has these larger sensors.

Dave
 
bousozoku said:
Without altering the image at all? :D I like that. Everything done in Photoshop alters the image. It may not be visually apparent but I assure you, the image has changed. :)
Not sure what you're saying here. Assuming lossless saving, altering the dpi (without changing the number of pixels) doesn't alter the image, per se, but only the way it is displayed.

--D
 
Moxiemike said:
A couple of things to mention, that you fail to... I don't know all the science, but i can see a HUGE difference in the photos from my D2h when compared to my D100 or my 10d samples.

If you had researched the hard science on the sensor size technology, what you would have found is that sensor size fundementally affects the noise ratio, which is what also generally prevents higher ISO speeds on the smaller-sensor cameras. Considering how "darn good" ISO 400 & 800 is getting on the DX-sized sensors, for generic "general purpose" photography development and learning, sensor size variation within the SLR form factor is pragmatically becoming a non-issue for this particular factor.


To compare {the D2h} to the 20d is a bit preposterous, on price alone, because {the 20D is} not REALLY a pro camera...

To compare the D2h to other Pro cameras is also a bit preposterous, as its huge 30% price cut is a warning that Nikon is afraid that it may be failing in its intended market segment...ie, they're continuing to have their lunch being eaten by Canon, both on the consumer and the Pro market.


The OP wanted a camera that they won't outgrow...

Which in simplest form means a replaceable lens and full manual control overrides. Nothing more...not even that it must be digital.


The FOTM is...a pro body, with pro build and a LOT of features that would give this person a lot of room to grow.

Classically true, but this rule of thumb doesn't apply in areas where rapid technology change is present.

The "invest in...for room to grow" paradigm is most optimally applied here to those technologies that do not have high rates of change, which here means film bodies, optical lenses, strobes, tripods, film, filters, ball heads...eg, pretty much everything except digital bodies and Flash Media cards.


And with a price of $2000, it'll hold it's value should the buyer decide in a year that 4mp isn't enough and they want to buy a D2x (or a 1d mk II even).

Instead of making a claim that flies in the face of the essence of Devorak's Law, why not simply give B&H a call today, ask them how much they'll offer to buy a used D2h for today, and report that nice quantitative number? FWIW, I'd be surprised if it was significantly higher than $1500.


Sure, all of these are theoreticals, but if the poster wants a camera to grow with, the D2h wouldn't be a poor choice at all.

Personally, I'd agree with you if the absolute top-of-the-line dSLR's topped out at 6MP sensors and no significant change was expected for 4-5 years. Unfortunately, at 4MP, the D2h is a feature set oxymoron.

FWIW, I don't want to make it sound like I'm being a Nikon-hater. The facts of the matter are that I also own a Nikon system and I have twice as much invested in it than I do in my current Canon system.


-hh
 
Chip NoVaMac said:
The price drop on the D2H was/is to help clear out inventory for the upcoming D2Hs.

Some would say that it is being superceded by the D2x too, but this point really only adds to the discrediting of Moxiemike's claim that the D2H is going to retain its value over time: the D2H superceded the D1H a mere 14 months ago, and the D1H now sells for ~$1000 on Ebay, which pretty strongly infers that the D2Hs and D2x are going to drive the residual value of the D2H down quite strongly over the next 12 months.

Nevertheless, my overall general concern with recommending this camera is that it really is a specialized camera: its target audience is the newspaper sports photographer whose images from the football game are almost never going to be enlarged to more than 5x7 at 85lpm, but its more important for him to get an 8fps burst to get the best possible image of the catch/fumble/etc: someone who's willing to give up resolution in order to get higher framerate & focus speeds.

If the OP had mentioned relevant photo interests (kids soccer game, etc) it might be one thing. But he was looking for a more generalized capability, which means that "speed - for - resolution" trade-off isn't likely to be appropriate.

Besides, this "buy speed" paradigm only applies when you also have the cash to buy the top-of-the-line professional grade lenses. On the Canon side, this would suggest lenses such as the 75-200mm f/2.8 IS "L", (~$1700) and/or the 400mm f/4 IS DO "L" (~$5400). Not exactly pocket change for even the serious hobbiest shooter.


-hh
 
I am wondering IF the 350D er... Rebel XT uses a similar IrCut filter as the new 20DA since they were both anounced at the same time.
It was first rumered that the 20Da had NO IrCut filter however I read that it uses a Narrow(er) band filter.

Is there a way to find this information out?! Camera manufacturesr never publish the iRcut filter specs.




vtprinz said:
If you're interested in either infrared photography or astrophotography, Canon just announced a modified 20D, the 20Da (I assume the "a" stands for astro). The IR filter that's built into all cameras has been removed in this cam. You can get an external filter that does the same thing (blocks IR light). With this filter on you can use the camera like a regular 20D. Then you can get a filter that blocks visible light but allows IR to pass and get some great IR shots :D

...of course, you'll have to wait a long time, as it's only available in Japan right now...
 
SoMoney said:
I am wondering IF the 350D er... Rebel XT uses a similar IrCut filter as the new 20DA since they were both anounced at the same time.
It was first rumered that the 20Da had NO IrCut filter however I read that it uses a Narrow(er) band filter.

Is there a way to find this information out?! Camera manufacturesr never publish the iRcut filter specs.

The 350D shouldn't use the same filter as the 20Da. If there's even any IR filter at all in the 20da (I thought they completely took it out), it's a specialty filter for that camera. BUT you can always modify the camera to completely take out the IR cut filter :)

I know several people that did this to the sony f828. It's not cheap though.

Check out www.maxmax.com
 
absolut_mac said:
Keep in mind that all cameras have some compromises, so no one camera is going to be best at everything. A good photographer will learn the strengths of the camera and work around its weaknesses i.e. any photographer worthy of that label will get excellent results, whether shooting with a Kodak Brownie or a top of the line Hassleblad. Digital makes it painless and easy to shoot thousands of *practice* shots without wasting film and processing charges.

With enough practice, your camera should just become an extension that you don't even think about, hence the importance of chooing one that you're comfortable with.

Exactly. It's typically the amateur or hobbyist photographers that think they need bigger and better cameras to get the right shots (not trying to take any potshots here). The hallmark of a good photographer is to be able to get the shot regardless of the quality of the camera. Hell, I've seen some amazing stuff using oatmeal box pinhole cameras.

Don't get too overcome by specs. Once you learn your tool (which is all the camera is, a tool for the artist) the photos will come. You're the biggest player here, not the camera.
 
Nope!
They "changed" the IR Cut filter to an IR Cut low-pass filter. The ones included in the current model DSLR's are too aggressive! With the new narrow(er) band filter in place, the 20Da is usefull for regular day shots aswell as Astrophotography.

----------Translated Text from canon-sales.co.jp/camera.eosd/20da---------

The EOS 20Da adopts the infrared cutting low-pass filter which has the structure which laminates infrared cut-off filter and 3 quartz plates where optical axial direction differs. The among these, as for the infrared cut-off filter in order to achieve the optical quality of celestial specification, with naked eye the H alpha bright line which almost cannot see (*) transmissivity it has improved in approximately 2.5 times that the " EOS 20D ". Because of this, it can photograph also the red nebula and the like where in the former digital single-lens reflex camera it could not catch, without using the special filter.

Wave length of the *H alpha bright line is 656 nano- meters. (1 nano- 10 100000000分の 1)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


vtprinz said:
The 350D shouldn't use the same filter as the 20Da. If there's even any IR filter at all in the 20da (I thought they completely took it out),
 
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