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Mac Pro completely dead after card exchange- need ideas
- Thread starter gugucom
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It's just the service manual. It's on-line at a few notorious sites out there.
Not much feeling like looking.
Would that work if power is turned off at a wall socket?
(I.e., do these wall switches turn off earthing as well as power?)
Reason I ask: I'd be somewhat scared of working on electrical stuff
with the possibility of wild electrons racing up my arm
LOL!Would that work if power is turned off at a wall socket?
(I.e., do these wall switches turn off earthing as well as power?)
Reason I ask: I'd be somewhat scared of working on electrical stuff
with the possibility of wild electrons racing up my arm
Sorry, I should have specified.
In terms of modern wiring where the entire system is grounded, it does work even if the breaker OFF. They only connect the Hot and Neutral carriers, not the grounds. Assuming the electrical system actually complies with at least the National Electrical Code.
Ok, I got the PSU out. Apple are such a royal pain in the butt about tools.
Like the bloody long handled metric half step internal hex screws for fixing the CPU heat sinks they have again used 2,5 mm hex. This time short handeled.
Unplugging the PSU connectors is another mad job because you can't see the latches under a recess plus I have huge hands.
I now got the PSU out and have undone another 13 screws to open it. I see a fuse labelled F1. The fuse seating is not meant for servicing and the bloody thing is glued to the PCB. The fuse is identified F16AH 250V on the PCB. This is a quick acting 6,3x32 mm fuse for 1500A.
I guess I will have to take the thing out and go to my local electronic store later this morning to have a replacement.
I'm not totally confident that I'm dealing with a burned fuse. I'm getting trickle power when the power cable is connected. I'm not getting trickle power when the power cable is off. That seems to indicate that trickle power comes from the PSU and not from the EFI battery. Why the hack would the Fuse give me trickle power but not boot power. A burned fuse will not give you any power or is my reckoning wrong?
So I will once more check all power connecors on the logic board. If both actions do not get me going I have to consider a fault to the power switch PCB.
More to follow.
Like the bloody long handled metric half step internal hex screws for fixing the CPU heat sinks they have again used 2,5 mm hex. This time short handeled.
Unplugging the PSU connectors is another mad job because you can't see the latches under a recess plus I have huge hands.
I now got the PSU out and have undone another 13 screws to open it. I see a fuse labelled F1. The fuse seating is not meant for servicing and the bloody thing is glued to the PCB. The fuse is identified F16AH 250V on the PCB. This is a quick acting 6,3x32 mm fuse for 1500A.
I guess I will have to take the thing out and go to my local electronic store later this morning to have a replacement.
I'm not totally confident that I'm dealing with a burned fuse. I'm getting trickle power when the power cable is connected. I'm not getting trickle power when the power cable is off. That seems to indicate that trickle power comes from the PSU and not from the EFI battery. Why the hack would the Fuse give me trickle power but not boot power. A burned fuse will not give you any power or is my reckoning wrong?
So I will once more check all power connecors on the logic board. If both actions do not get me going I have to consider a fault to the power switch PCB.
More to follow.
It means the fuse is good, but not all of the PSU is.Ok, I got the PSU out. Apple are such a royal pain in the butt about tools.
Like the bloody long handled metric half step internal hex screws for fixing the CPU heat sinks they have again used 2,5 mm hex. This time short handeled.
Unplugging the PSU connectors is another mad job because you can't see the latches under a recess plus I have huge hands.
I now got the PSU out and have undone another 13 screws to open it. I see a fuse labelled F1. The fuse seating is not meant for servicing and the bloody thing is glued to the PCB. The fuse is identified F16AH 250V on the PCB. This is a quick acting 6,3x32 mm fuse for 1500A.
I guess I will have to take the thing out and go to my local electronic store later this morning to have a replacement.
I'm not totally confident that I'm dealing with a burned fuse. I'm getting trickle power when the power cable is connected. I'm not getting trickle power when the power cable is off. That seems to indicate that trickle power comes from the PSU and not from the EFI battery. Why the hack would the Fuse give me trickle power but not boot power. A burned fuse will not give you any power or is my reckoning wrong?
So I will once more check all power connecors on the logic board. If both actions do not get me going I have to consider a fault to the power switch PCB.
More to follow.
You'd need to get a replacement, and hope it didn't take out other parts of the system with it.
Ok, I got the PSU out. Apple are such a royal pain in the butt about tools.
Like the bloody long handled metric half step internal hex screws for fixing the CPU heat sinks they have again used 2,5 mm hex. This time short handeled.
Unplugging the PSU connectors is another mad job because you can't see the latches under a recess plus I have huge hands.
I now got the PSU out and have undone another 13 screws to open it. I see a fuse labelled F1. The fuse seating is not meant for servicing and the bloody thing is glued to the PCB. The fuse is identified F16AH 250V on the PCB. This is a quick acting 6,3x32 mm fuse for 1500A.
I guess I will have to take the thing out and go to my local electronic store later this morning to have a replacement.
I'm not totally confident that I'm dealing with a burned fuse. I'm getting trickle power when the power cable is connected. I'm not getting trickle power when the power cable is off. That seems to indicate that trickle power comes from the PSU and not from the EFI battery. Why the hack would the Fuse give me trickle power but not boot power. A burned fuse will not give you any power or is my reckoning wrong?
So I will once more check all power connecors on the logic board. If both actions do not get me going I have to consider a fault to the power switch PCB.
More to follow.
Do you have a digital camera? Got pics?
Also if you're getting trickle it's not a bad fuse. The fuse is usually right off the mains and if it goes you get no power anywhere - except for an isolated battery backed circuit.
Yeah, when I discovered there is only one fuse for 1500 A I figured that out and I'm putting the PSU back now. It is allmost done. My digital camera is low on battery, so there will be no pics. Re fitting the PSU connectors is a real bitch. The sockets are under the separate PSU fan unit which is fixed with rubber bolts that destroy when removed. I hate this design. Apple have no thought for their poor service engineers. It took me 1 h to refit 4 connectors.
Edit: Its all back together now and no improvement. Trickle power only. All connectors were checked and cables checked for blank spots. None of that found. Refitted all connectors to the power switch PCB and also no joy. The next step according to Apple is fitting new power switch and PCB. The only luck in this bleak situation is the AASP macmuc here in Munich. They are very good and very quick.
Edit more: They told me they think the PSU is at fault and I have authorised the order of an exchange replacement. More to follow as the story unfolds.
More: It isn't any of the cheaper stuff. They are now getting a logic board in. Shards... This is going to cost me as much as a new mini.
Edit: Its all back together now and no improvement. Trickle power only. All connectors were checked and cables checked for blank spots. None of that found. Refitted all connectors to the power switch PCB and also no joy. The next step according to Apple is fitting new power switch and PCB. The only luck in this bleak situation is the AASP macmuc here in Munich. They are very good and very quick.
Edit more: They told me they think the PSU is at fault and I have authorised the order of an exchange replacement. More to follow as the story unfolds.
More: It isn't any of the cheaper stuff. They are now getting a logic board in. Shards... This is going to cost me as much as a new mini.
Any idea what killed it?
The other guy who killed his had been running 2@ 4870s with power from opticals, IIRC.
The other guy who killed his had been running 2@ 4870s with power from opticals, IIRC.
No, I have no idea. I was running a 3870 with AKASA cooler with a standard cable directly off the PCIe power connector.
The only non standard installation was a SATA cable from the BD-Drive to an ODD-SATA connector on the logic board. That connector did not fit very well. The cable was straight and had to be bend and got a bit squeezed between the fan unit and the logic board. I cannot imagine that killed the logic board.
I had a cable with a flatter connector and with 90° cable turn fitted by the AASP though.
It's possible, but the cable's insulation would have been damaged and shorted on the logic board.
That definitely did not happen. The cable is intact and if there had been a contact it could only been to the fan carrier. Thats why I said I had no idea why it went down.