LCD's can get warm?!?!![]()
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Hmm... If the stove ever goes out, set the brightness & contrast to max and fry some eggs.![]()
or use my MBP that idles at 80°C (yup, i havent fixed it yet)
LCD's can get warm?!?!![]()
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Hmm... If the stove ever goes out, set the brightness & contrast to max and fry some eggs.![]()
Sounds close enough to the window, you might not need bother with a fan to pull/push the exhaust from the system output to the window vent you construct.OK, guys, thanks for the continued discussion. A key here in regulating the temperature of this room is to make sure any heat-generating equipment doesn't re-circulate exhaust heat back into the room (because adding air conditioners to this room is not an option for me).
I do like the idea of exiting out the window, which the Mac Pro sits directly below - I could do that as a test before I commit to a full-scale "hole in the wall."
I originally thought this might be difficult, but then I remembered that most of the heat generated is from the CPU/RAM exhaust and the power supply exhaust (and the video card to a lesser extent). It might be possible to make a sealed box around those two exit points and evacuate that air using a duct. Wouldn't have to worry about wiring, since it wouldn't interfere.
Hmm.
JP
No, you're not alone. They were awsome machines in their day.And Tesselator -- DEC Alphas! I wonder if you and I are the only ones posting on this board who have Alpha histories. I'm still running one (Compaq-branded) and have a handful of others in the closet.
You do know that does not change how much head is being generated right? Yes the chips will be cooler to the touch, but the same amount of heat is going into the room. Less heat at a faster rate is still the same.
I run dual 24" LCDs and I notice that the brightness level makes a huge difference in how much heat they produce. My current setting is Brightness 10, Contrast 60. I get a nice pure white too! With the brightness at 50 (perhaps suitable for a room FLOODED with sunlight) they draw twice the power and produce a lot more heat. Maybe something to look in to?
I note that Tesselator shows what seems to be a Panasonic exhaust fan (the ceiling one, not the squirrel-cage ones).
If you go the in-ceiling fan route, be sure to check noise levels. The Panasonic fans are the way to go -- extremely quiet. I have several. If you're wondering whether they're on, you have to stop and listen for them, which is totally unlike the usual roaring exhaust fan.
And Tesselator -- DEC Alphas! I wonder if you and I are the only ones posting on this board who have Alpha histories. I'm still running one (Compaq-branded) and have a handful of others in the closet.
I dropped them down from 40 or so to 10. Hopefully it makes some change.
Keep in mind that if you are exhausting air outside, then that means you're also pulling in outside air into your house. If you live in a hot humid climate that means you'll actually likely be making things worse in terms of total energy useage. this is especially true if you're exhausting larger amounts of air remote from the unit (i.e. ceiling) instead of smaller direct ducted amounts.
If you don't run AC, well then it won't matter, but if you do, better to run the AC more than to exhaust in most cases.
No, you're not alone. They were awsome machines in their day.![]()
After 15 Min. you should be able to feel the difference just by placing your hand on the back. At Brightness 10 mine feel slightly warm. At Brightness 50 mine feel uncomfortably warm - almost hot. Factory defaults are set to 100 if you can believe that.
I hope you're not a midnight eater.Why not just dump the whole thing in a frost-free refrigerator?
I'm sure they make them big enough those days.
Just an idea...
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I hope you're not a midnight eater.Somehow I can imagine a more than half out of it person mistaking that MacBook for a take out container, and stabing it with a fork! (and perhaps gag on a few keys a few seconds later).
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Ewww... What a mess. And that's before the house catches fire.worst... microwave it.![]()
Pure H20 (deionized) would work, and not short the system (used in manufacturing for cleaning organic flux).
Pure H20 (deionized) would work, and not short the system (used in manufacturing for cleaning organic flux).Tap OTOH,... BUZZ/ZAP/POOF!
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In small quantities, No, but in larger quantities, it can cause some problems due to it's aggressive nature (check here).now thats a cool fact to know.. is pure H20 bad for us to drink?
In small quantities, No, but in larger quantities, it can cause some problems due to it's aggressive nature (check here).
It also tastes like sh*t.![]()
It messes up the electrolyte balance, which can cause problems, especially if consumed over long periods of time.how intersting. i was under the impression that it slowly ate away your insides or something haha
It messes up the electrolyte balance, which can cause problems, especially if consumed over long periods of time.
Give the W.H.O article a read.![]()