Mac Pro Owners: anyone ever design a hot air exhaust for this beast?

[goMac]

other than that try running SMC fan control and bump the fan speed up a bit to keep the machine cool.

(offtopic)

Isn't this not really a solution? I mean, by the laws of physics you're still going to be moving the same amount of heat off the processors. The fans aren't actually "cooling" the processors, they're just moving heat off the heat sinks.

No matter what your fan speed is set at, you're still moving the same amount of heat off the processors and into the room, you're just getting louder fans.

 

[JPamplin]

Yes, goMac, you're right - I think we established that it's not the Mac I need to cool more - it's the room the Mac sits in. Evacuating the hot air out of the room will have the most benefit.

I'm looking to build a small box that wraps around the back of the Pro from top to bottom except for the port cluster. Thin wood or metal, with rubber trim on the Mac side to seal it. I can use the back handles on top and bottom to lock it in. Then have that box have a standard 4" duct port at the top and run that duct wherever I can (out the window, out the wall).

The window would be a problem, simply because you're opening up an air-conditioned space to the outside. But there may be a way around that.

JP

 

[Tesselator]

No he's not right. Think about it a little more. Every room has heat exchange with the walls, floor, ceiling, windows, and air-flow in and out of the room (draft). This to not to mention that air speed affects evaporation which is a process that produces cooling as a one of the results. Faster air-flow will mean less total heat from the computer. If the room has enough surface area or draft this too will dramatically affect the result. Your thought-model is way too isolated. I agree that it's not a total solution or probably even a very good solution depending but it does matter. And it might just matter enough to make a noticeable difference too - again, depending.

Also the solution to the window problem is a board the height of the window with a hole in it.


.

 

[nanofrog]

No he's not right. Think about it a little more. Every room has heat exchange with the walls, floor, ceiling, windows, and air-flow in and out of the room (draft). This to not to mention that air speed affects evaporation which is a process that produces cooling as a one of the results. Faster air-flow will mean less total heat from the computer. If the room has enough surface area or draft this too will dramatically affect the result. Your thought-model is way too isolated. I agree that it's not a total solution or probably even a very good solution depending but it does matter. And it might just matter enough to make a noticeable difference too - again, depending.

Also the solution to the window problem is a board the height of the window with a hole in to it.


.

Not necessarily the easiest concept, as airflow does change things significantly.

 

[Tesselator]

Tru dat. I prolly said it too strong too. I didn't mean it to sound like I was pronouncing judgment on the evil and condemned or anything.

 

[Bartman01]

If you have central air, add extra cooling to the room or dump the exhaust out near the AC return or to a large common area instead of to the outside. A powerful fan or two exhausting to the exterior could easily empty the contents of the entire house, not just the room and significantly increase AC run time and cost.

 

[Tesselator]

He's right. If you go for the exhaust fan thingy and wanna do AC at the same time set it up for a slow draft. AC slowly across the room and out the slow moving exhaust fan. It's the reason I put the exhaust fans on dimmer switches for speed control. Turned up too high they seem to cancel out a lot of the benefit of the AC. Also the exhaust fans being at the top of the room helps as heat rises - so it's like syphoning off the top layer of the warmest air.

 

[nanofrog]

If you have central air, add extra cooling to the room or dump the exhaust out near the AC return or to a large common area instead of to the outside. A powerful fan or two exhausting to the exterior could easily empty the contents of the entire house, not just the room and significantly increase AC run time and cost.

A small window AC unit has it's merits though. Spot cooling for the affected room, and no modifications of the building required (permanent). Rather easy too.

 

[Bartman01]

A small window AC unit has it's merits though. Spot cooling for the affected room, and no modifications of the building required (permanent). Rather easy too.

That would be the easiest and probably cheapest way to add extra cooling to the room. The room I have heat problems with I solve with 1 or two fans running to help direct the hot air out of the room and to the house. Since my room is on the top floor, if I needed to add more cooling I would look at one of those newer in room units and run the ducting for the hot exhaust to the attic.

One plus of the 'in room' units is that if you lose power in the summer (due to say a hurricane) you could re-purpose the unit to the master bedroom suite to have at least one comfortable room in the house.

 

[nanofrog]

One plus of the 'in room' units is that if you lose power in the summer (due to say a hurricane) you could re-purpose the unit to the master bedroom suite to have at least one comfortable room in the house.

I've actually had to do that, as I'm originally from Florida.

 

[JPamplin]

If you have central air, add extra cooling to the room or dump the exhaust out near the AC return or to a large common area instead of to the outside. A powerful fan or two exhausting to the exterior could easily empty the contents of the entire house, not just the room and significantly increase AC run time and cost.

Yes, I've already totally replaced the ductwork in my attic to a larger, rigid airtube, added an additional AC vent to this room, and increased the dedicated air return in this room to 10" (there are 4 10" air returns on this floor now). We have a 13-SEER 2.5 Ton AC unit which just cools this floor. I am now sleeping the Mac and shutting down the PC when not in use, and it's already starting to make a difference in temps. I keep the blinds closed all the time.

The issue with this is that a) this is the top floor, b) the stairway to the main floor is open, which means the cool air drifts down the stairs, c) the office is south facing, and I'm not totally sure of the insulation in the walls (standard R-13 batt, but it could be better if I would like to rip off all the insulation and start over), and d) I have 2 heavy-duty computers blowing hot exhaust into the room.

I can't add a dedicated AC unit in the window because this is the front room in the house and frankly, an AC unit sticking out of the top floor of a $450K house wouldn't look very good in this area.

I'm going to definitely explore the vent option, using just the fans in the Pro to push the air out the window or side wall. The only question is where I'll find the time. The original purpose of this email was to see if there were a commerially-available back plate that would do this without me having to design one. I guess there isn't.

Thanks, everyone, for the feedback - I really appreciate it,

JP

 

[nanofrog]

Yes, I've already totally replaced the ductwork in my attic to a larger, rigid airtube, added an additional AC vent to this room, and increased the dedicated air return in this room to 10" (there are 4 10" air returns on this floor now). We have a 13-SEER 2.5 Ton AC unit which just cools this floor. I am now sleeping the Mac and shutting down the PC when not in use, and it's already starting to make a difference in temps. I keep the blinds closed all the time.

The issue with this is that a) this is the top floor, b) the stairway to the main floor is open, which means the cool air drifts down the stairs, c) the office is south facing, and I'm not totally sure of the insulation in the walls (standard R-13 batt, but it could be better if I would like to rip off all the insulation and start over), and d) I have 2 heavy-duty computers blowing hot exhaust into the room.

I can't add a dedicated AC unit in the window because this is the front room in the house and frankly, an AC unit sticking out of the top floor of a $450K house wouldn't look very good in this area.

I'm going to definitely explore the vent option, using just the fans in the Pro to push the air out the window or side wall. The only question is where I'll find the time. The original purpose of this email was to see if there were a commerially-available back plate that would do this without me having to design one. I guess there isn't.

Thanks, everyone, for the feedback - I really appreciate it,

JP

Have you checked into Portable Air Conditioners (unit stays in the house, just the exhaust vent is fed out a window or set into a wall (similar to a dryer vent, just larger IIRC)?

If you keep the door closed, it would certainly help, and it would also alleviate the "box out the front window = eye sore" problem. Not terribly expensive either.

Just an idea at any rate, and far simpler than say the Mitsubishi Mr. Slim ductless AC unit, though that would be an option, if you were willing to budget that much.

 

[Cynicalone]

I can't add a dedicated AC unit in the window because this is the front room in the house and frankly, an AC unit sticking out of the top floor of a $450K house wouldn't look very good in this area.

My solution is the easiest to install in a home if you don't want to add something ugly to the outside. The lines to the A/C unit are hidden in the wall only one small hole penetrates the exterior and connects to the outside unit. Small and quite, it can be hidden anywhere outside the house.

 

[nanofrog]

My solution is the easiest to install in a home if you don't want to add something ugly to the outside. The lines to the A/C unit are hidden in the wall only one small hole penetrates the exterior and connects to the outside unit. Small and quite, it can be hidden anywhere outside the house.

As it's a second floor, front side of the house, it's not quite so simple. Perfect for a ground floor situation, or easier to accomodate on higher levels if the plumbing can be run up the side or rear.

Cost is also likely to be an issue.

However, I do like the Mitsubishi Mr. Slim ductless sytem. Far less modification to the dwelling, and better than having the central AC system redesigned for both ease of installation and cost in this case.

 

[Bartman01]

I am in the same situation that you are. Office is in a front/upstairs room and an 'in window' unit would not be allowed by the HOA. A portable 'in room' unit with the exhaust to the attic would be invisible to the outside and give you additional cooling.

If you want to add an exhaust fan to move hot air out of the room, consider installing it over the door to the room pushing the hot air at the top of the room to the hallway outside. Something along this idea but better fans mounted above the door in the drywall http://lifehacker.com/5157614/room+to+room-corner-fan-cuts-your-energy-costs

Both of the above would be easy to remove, patch, and paint later if you move.

 

[Cynicalone]

As it's a second floor, front side of the house, it's not quite so simple. Perfect for a ground floor situation, or easier to accomodate on higher levels if the plumbing can be run up the side or rear.

Cost is also likely to be an issue.

However, I do like the Mitsubishi Mr. Slim ductless sytem. Far less modification to the dwelling, and better than having the central AC system redesigned for both ease of installation and cost in this case.

I suppose it depends on how far you need to run it. But it was either that or add a window unit. I decided to have them remove the window and rebuild the wall. For extra A/C I installed two units and ran the lines inside the wall and out the back of the house. Stuck the outside unit at the back of the house. There are no lines visible on the inside and a minimal amount visible outside. Both units with installation cost 3500 USD, which I know seems like a lot but I work at home so it was worth it to me.

 

[nanofrog]

I suppose it depends on how far you need to run it. But it was either that or add a window unit. I decided to have them remove the window and rebuild the wall. For extra A/C I installed two units and ran the lines inside the wall and out the back of the house. Stuck the outside unit at the back of the house. There are no lines visible on the inside and a minimal amount visible outside. Both units with installation cost 3500 USD, which I know seems like a lot but I work at home so it was worth it to me.

You had a reason, so it was justified. Unfortunately, not everyone would be willing/able to put that much into it.

I was sort of in the same boat, but had a little luck. OK, a lot of it.

Though it's on the front of the house, it's also a corner. So I had windows on the side as well as the front, and best yet, any visibility of the unit is hidden by foliage. The front has a large hedge row (~8' tall, near the roadway), and the corner by a Holly tree. I even had the window unit sitting in the garage, as it was originally purchased for hurricane season.

Cost of project = Zero
Just required a little effort.