It's $99 now. I never had a chance to bring it to a glazier either, which would've been the smart thing to do when it was under $70.
****.
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Macbook Glass Removal / LCD replacement
- Thread starter jatienza3
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It's $99 now. I never had a chance to bring it to a glazier either, which would've been the smart thing to do when it was under $70.
****.
Louis - how does that tape work? It looks pretty thin in their picture. The tape we use on our glass I think is thicker. No problems with thickness?
We have the original glass replacement panels for the 13 MacBook & MacBook Pro for $99. We also have the 15 and 17 glass and we do free shipping.
The glass panels we sell have the adhesive tape installed already for use.
Here's a link for the replacement unibody glass panels we offer: http://reboundweb.com/xcart/home.php?cat=40&catexp=40
The 3M 465 is great.
It's not tape as in double sided tape. It's tape with adhesive on it. You tape it to what you want to make sticky, remove the tape, and now that item has strong adhesive on it. It transfers the adhesive from the tape to the object. It is perfect for thin applications with no room inbetween what you're adhesing.
You have to use something like methyl ethyl ketone to remove the old adhesive for it to be a clean job, reusing the adhesive or putting new adhesive on top of old adhesive results in glass that can be taken off with a fingernail. I use butanone to wipe off every last bit of stuff from the unibody display assembly until there's nothing left. Acetone also works but evaporates way too quickly for it to be a viable solution when time is a concern. I'd also recommend having a window open with a powerful exhaust fan in it so you don't poison your brain from this stuff, and obviously make sure none of this gets into the machine or the webcam.
I have been peeling the adhesive that comes with the glass I buy off because it is thick and mild. I could pull the glass back off with my fingernail. The main problem was with dust. I do this in a room that has excessive air filtering, but the second I take it outside to return it, if the glass isn't really tight it's going to be infested with little black specs of stuff.
The glass isn't as easily removable on most models as it is in that video. There's a reason the initial first time the glass was removed is not included in that video. Don't be surprised if yours doesn't just pop off. It's no new news that Apple laptops aren't manufactured to super tight tolerances(they are consumer items), but 90% of the ones I have encountered have absolutely no space for even the thinnest of material to fit between the aluminum body and the glass.
I have a hakko 851 soldering tool I use to heat the glass until the old adhesive loosens, then a suction cup to pull it off. This is kind of overkill, since it's a $600 iron. I am confident a heatgun would do the same job for $25, but at the time, all I had was the soldering tool.
I bought a bunch of glass at around $50/pc, and am glad I did so, since everyone is out of it and charging $110-$150 shipped for a square piece of glass! I'm taking my last pieces to a glazier for copying so I am no longer at the mercy of what my old suppliers want to charge me at any given time for a carton of sheets of glass.
It's not tape as in double sided tape. It's tape with adhesive on it. You tape it to what you want to make sticky, remove the tape, and now that item has strong adhesive on it. It transfers the adhesive from the tape to the object. It is perfect for thin applications with no room inbetween what you're adhesing.
You have to use something like methyl ethyl ketone to remove the old adhesive for it to be a clean job, reusing the adhesive or putting new adhesive on top of old adhesive results in glass that can be taken off with a fingernail. I use butanone to wipe off every last bit of stuff from the unibody display assembly until there's nothing left. Acetone also works but evaporates way too quickly for it to be a viable solution when time is a concern. I'd also recommend having a window open with a powerful exhaust fan in it so you don't poison your brain from this stuff, and obviously make sure none of this gets into the machine or the webcam.
I have been peeling the adhesive that comes with the glass I buy off because it is thick and mild. I could pull the glass back off with my fingernail. The main problem was with dust. I do this in a room that has excessive air filtering, but the second I take it outside to return it, if the glass isn't really tight it's going to be infested with little black specs of stuff.
The glass isn't as easily removable on most models as it is in that video. There's a reason the initial first time the glass was removed is not included in that video. Don't be surprised if yours doesn't just pop off. It's no new news that Apple laptops aren't manufactured to super tight tolerances(they are consumer items), but 90% of the ones I have encountered have absolutely no space for even the thinnest of material to fit between the aluminum body and the glass.
I have a hakko 851 soldering tool I use to heat the glass until the old adhesive loosens, then a suction cup to pull it off. This is kind of overkill, since it's a $600 iron. I am confident a heatgun would do the same job for $25, but at the time, all I had was the soldering tool.
I bought a bunch of glass at around $50/pc, and am glad I did so, since everyone is out of it and charging $110-$150 shipped for a square piece of glass! I'm taking my last pieces to a glazier for copying so I am no longer at the mercy of what my old suppliers want to charge me at any given time for a carton of sheets of glass.