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MacBook Pro Unibody - No Backlight - Logic Board Question

No Backlight - MBP 15" 2009 Logic Board 820-2533-B

Hi all!

1st post :)

What an amazing forum - but,.. this thread is really incredible!! I had no idea that so many issues were repairable!!

I've got a MBP A1286 15" 2009 with logic board "820-2533-B" and no backlight. Its the usual water damage which caused the issue (coffee actually).

I took the MBP to the apple store and they said it was "dead"... After dis-assembling and giving the logic board a thorough alcohol clean it came back to life!!!! But,... no backlight. I ordered a new lid assembly thinking that the LCD had issues (before I found this thread btw) so I now have 2 lids, which I believe are both working fine in that the backlight is only issue with either lid in place.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any info/images that point out the WLED and fuse for this board - I searched and read the thread and did not find anything for this model... did I miss it? I will take some pictures and post ASAP if none available. Any links or info much appreciated.

BTW, How many posts before I can attach pictures?

Thanks & Hi to all!!
 
UPDATE: I replaced the fuse assembled the mac pro back together and received the same outcome. No backlight. So what I did is purchased a MDP (mini display port to DVI) adapter and connected it using an external screen. I booted up in safe mode and voila! I got an image on the external screen. The internal screen however shows all the icons but everything is very dim and needs a flashlight shined on it to see anything. Now I am guessing the WLED driver has failed. What do you guys think?

Dadioh where would i be able to find the correct WLED driver and where would I locate it and how would i test the readings?

-
 
Last edited:
Dadioh

Hope you can help me. I was trying to fix my A1286 MBP late 2008 from a cracked screen. I got the new screen but soon found that I had problems installing the LVDS cable. Eventually the area where the LVDS latches onto on the LCD eventually wore out and I could not use it any longer.

So now I have two LCDs with no video or backlight. External monitor works fine.

I have tried reseating the cables several times to no avail. What is my prognosis?

I have another screen + LVDS arriving tomorrow. I'm worried that it isn't the LVDS anymore after reading through this thread. Is there anything I can do to confirm my suspicions? If so, what? I have a DMM handy, I would not call myself a novice with electronics but I'm not EE either.

My only other info is that even with a bright flash light I can't see the picture on the screen.

I see no burn marks. When I boot into OS X with an external monitor and go to the settings > monitor I only see my externa. I figure if the LCD was working properly with just no backlight that it would show up at least in there to change the resolution. Does this mean good news or bad news?
 
Last edited:
elitetek said:
UPDATE: I replaced the fuse assembled the mac pro back together and received the same outcome. No backlight. So what I did is purchased a MDP (mini display port to DVI) adapter and connected it using an external screen. I booted up in safe mode and voila! I got an image on the external screen. The internal screen however shows all the icons but everything is very dim and needs a flashlight shined on it to see anything. Now I am guessing the WLED driver has failed. What do you guys think?

Dadioh where would i be able to find the correct WLED driver and where would I locate it and how would i test the readings?

-
Click to expand...

That is good news. That means it is just the backlight that is out. In the series of pictures you posted, the very last picture shows the back of the board near the DCin connector. I believ that the WLED driver is the square package dead center of the photo. Can you read the number off the top? It should be 8543.

I can look up a few places that sell it once you confirm that is the correct device.

Replacing it is not an easy task however so you will need to get someone with good soldering equipment and skills.

----------
willko said:
Hi all!

1st post :)

What an amazing forum - but,.. this thread is really incredible!! I had no idea that so many issues were repairable!!

I've got a MBP A1286 15" 2009 with logic board "820-2533-B" and no backlight. Its the usual water damage which caused the issue (coffee actually).

I took the MBP to the apple store and they said it was "dead"... After dis-assembling and giving the logic board a thorough alcohol clean it came back to life!!!! But,... no backlight. I ordered a new lid assembly thinking that the LCD had issues (before I found this thread btw) so I now have 2 lids, which I believe are both working fine in that the backlight is only issue with either lid in place.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any info/images that point out the WLED and fuse for this board - I searched and read the thread and did not find anything for this model... did I miss it? I will take some pictures and post ASAP if none available. Any links or info much appreciated.

BTW, How many posts before I can attach pictures?

Thanks & Hi to all!!
Click to expand...

Welcome to the thread. I believe this is the 2009 MBP 15" with single fan and 2.53GHz C2D?

If you post a high res pic of the front and back near the DCin connector we can spot the fuse for you.

----------
PacificRimJob said:
Dadioh

Hope you can help me. I was trying to fix my A1286 MBP late 2008 from a cracked screen. I got the new screen but soon found that I had problems installing the LVDS cable. Eventually the area where the LVDS latches onto on the LCD eventually wore out and I could not use it any longer.

So now I have two LCDs with no video or backlight. External monitor works fine.

I have tried reseating the cables several times to no avail. What is my prognosis?

I have another screen + LVDS arriving tomorrow. I'm worried that it isn't the LVDS anymore after reading through this thread. Is there anything I can do to confirm my suspicions? If so, what? I have a DMM handy, I would not call myself a novice with electronics but I'm not EE either.

My only other info is that even with a bright flash light I can't see the picture on the screen.

I see no burn marks. When I boot into OS X with an external monitor and go to the settings > monitor I only see my externa. I figure if the LCD was working properly with just no backlight that it would show up at least in there to change the resolution. Does this mean good news or bad news?
Click to expand...

It sounds like your lvds connector on the logic board is damaged. There are little fingers along the bottom edge inside the connector that provide ground connects. If inserted wrong the lvds cable connector can push those pins up and mash them into the data pins inside the connector. Only solution is to replace the lvds connector itself. The 15" model uses a 40 pin I-Pex connector. You can find them on eBay. Replacement requires good soldering equipment and skills.

Good luck and welcome to the thread :)
 
Hi Dadioh

Thank for your help again. The chip is Parade PS8301. I did a search on it an it suggested it is a QFN 40pin Power IC chipset. would this be the correct one? i have attached a closer picture for your viewing.

2djywrs.jpg
 
Last edited:
Dadioh said:
It sounds like your lvds connector on the logic board is damaged. There are little fingers along the bottom edge inside the connector that provide ground connects. If inserted wrong the lvds cable connector can push those pins up and mash them into the data pins inside the connector. Only solution is to replace the lvds connector itself. The 15" model uses a 40 pin I-Pex connector. You can find them on eBay. Replacement requires good soldering equipment and skills.

Good luck and welcome to the thread :)
Click to expand...

Is the damage something I'd only be able to see microscopicly? I can't see anything bent when I peer into the slot with a bright flashlight.

Is there any chance that both LVDS connectors on the LCDs themselves were badly damaged?
 
elitetek said:
Hi Dadioh

Thank for your help again. The chip is Parade PS8301. I did a search on it an it suggested it is a QFN 40pin Power IC chipset. would this be the correct one? i have attached a closer picture for your viewing.

Image
Click to expand...

No that wouldn't be it. The 8543 is a 24 pin package.

http://webench.national.com/ds/LP/LP8543.pdf

I don't see it on your picture. Maybe it is front side. Sorry, I don't ave schematic for 17" and the only one I have belongs to my wife so I can't really rip it apart :)

Unless the 17" uses a different WLED driver. Possibble I suppose but apple usually uses cookie cutter design for the models within a year.

Edit. I think it is the 24 pin part that seems to be VM09.... But I couldn't find the part number in searches. Anyone know what that part number is?
 
Last edited:
PacificRimJob said:
Is the damage something I'd only be able to see microscopicly? I can't see anything bent when I peer into the slot with a bright flashlight.

Is there any chance that both LVDS connectors on the LCDs themselves were badly damaged?
Click to expand...

I swing my binocular microscope over the edge of the work bench and hold the board on edge and focus by adjusting distance with my hands. Not sure if you could use just eyesight and flashlight but not with my eyes :)

As long as you have a microscope you can examine the lvds cable connectors as well.
 
Dadioh said:
I swing my binocular microscope over the edge of the work bench and hold the board on edge and focus by adjusting distance with my hands. Not sure if you could use just eyesight and flashlight but not with my eyes :)

As long as you have a microscope you can examine the lvds cable connectors as well.
Click to expand...

What microscope do you have?

Also I have a damaged LCD and I removed the LVDS connector there and I don't see anything. Is the ground pins only located on the LVDS connector on the logic board? Thank you!
 
Dadioh said:
No that wouldn't be it. The 8543 is a 24 pin package.

http://webench.national.com/ds/LP/LP8543.pdf

I don't see it on your picture. Maybe it is front side. Sorry, I don't ave schematic for 17" and the only one I have belongs to my wife so I can't really rip it apart :)

Unless the 17" uses a different WLED driver. Possibble I suppose but apple usually uses cookie cutter design for the models within a year.

Edit. I think it is the 24 pin part that seems to be VM09.... But I couldn't find the part number in searches. Anyone know what that part number is?
Click to expand...

I couldn't find anything with a 8543. I took the liberty and took more pictures. I also found this Blog which is a Macbook pro i7 teardown. http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/apple-macbook-pro-quad-core-i7-teardown/6211309?seq=81&tag=thumbnail-view-selector;get-photo-roto

w027fk.jpg

xqdqqe.jpg

1jlrgn.jpg
 
Dadioh you were right. After inspecting the LVDS connector on the logicboard I can clearly see that there was a pin pushed down farthest to the left and also I could see the point where it was soldered to the logicboard pushed back out a little and thus broken off of its solder point.

This is a huge huge huge learning experience and a very costly mistake. I am so used to working with regular laptops that are not as fragile as these Macs are.

The good news is that I can still use it as a desktop and it's going to my son now lol.
 
Darioh I would still like to know what exact microscope you use or what is the general term that you use? Is it specifically made for electronics?
 
Ok I have fixed a few of these now. But a couple have similar problem. Has anyone else here had any issues with the back light been out and the wireless going bad? I tested one to day that I had completely fixed and noticed that it was not connecting to wifi. It actually showed that no wifi was connected. After looking back I noticed that by the wi-fi connection on the board there looked to be a capacitor blown. ok this is the issue I figured. I had another board a1286 that had the same issue backlighting. After connecting it to power I watched the capacitor by the wireless connector catch on fire. Can any one give any info on this weird little issue?

Thanks folks
 
PacificRimJob said:
Darioh I would still like to know what exact microscope you use or what is the general term that you use? Is it specifically made for electronics?
Click to expand...

This is the sort of microscope to use in case people are wondering. You probably want to add a 0.5X Barlow lens to allow extra distance for getting soldering tools under it.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Boom-20X-40X...ltDomain_0&hash=item1c1f734dee#ht_4344wt_1413

This is just an example. Do some shopping around and find the best deal and features for you.

----------
PacificRimJob said:
Dadioh you were right. After inspecting the LVDS connector on the logicboard I can clearly see that there was a pin pushed down farthest to the left and also I could see the point where it was soldered to the logicboard pushed back out a little and thus broken off of its solder point.

This is a huge huge huge learning experience and a very costly mistake. I am so used to working with regular laptops that are not as fragile as these Macs are.

The good news is that I can still use it as a desktop and it's going to my son now lol.
Click to expand...

It is not too tough a job for someone with soldering skills to replace that connector so if you ever change your mind and want the display working again feel free to check back. :D

----------
debo160 said:
Ok I have fixed a few of these now. But a couple have similar problem. Has anyone else here had any issues with the back light been out and the wireless going bad? I tested one to day that I had completely fixed and noticed that it was not connecting to wifi. It actually showed that no wifi was connected. After looking back I noticed that by the wi-fi connection on the board there looked to be a capacitor blown. ok this is the issue I figured. I had another board a1286 that had the same issue backlighting. After connecting it to power I watched the capacitor by the wireless connector catch on fire. Can any one give any info on this weird little issue?

Thanks folks
Click to expand...

I am not aware of any relationship between the wifi and the backlight. The 30 pin connector for the wifi/bluetooth can be problematic for multiple connections/disconnections and it is easy to damage. Finding replacement connector is also tough.
 
Dadioh said:
This is the sort of microscope to use in case people are wondering. You probably want to add a 0.5X Barlow lens to allow extra distance for getting soldering tools under it.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Boom-20X-40X...ltDomain_0&hash=item1c1f734dee#ht_4344wt_1413

This is just an example. Do some shopping around and find the best deal and features for you.

----------



It is not too tough a job for someone with soldering skills to replace that connector so if you ever change your mind and want the display working again feel free to check back. :D

----------



I am not aware of any relationship between the wifi and the backlight. The 30 pin connector for the wifi/bluetooth can be problematic for multiple connections/disconnections and it is easy to damage. Finding replacement connector is also tough.
Click to expand...


Ok so you never had replace any capacitors/resistors around the wi-fi area? I was going to get a reading from the other board so i would know what to replace but then it burned up lol smh. Both are 2008 a1286 models one a 2.4ghz one 2.53Ghz. Also I am looking into a microscope what are your thought on this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/40029715623...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1962wt_1165
 
Dadioh I have an UPDATE! Like I mentioned I had already ordered a new LCD and cable. I got the LCD today! Guess what happened. It does turn on but no backlight.

Now what are my obvious things to consider here? The fuse on the back? I did check it with my dmm and it was 1. Could I short it just to test and see if it will work ok? Would I be able to remove the short and then properly install a fuse?
 
PacificRimJob said:
Dadioh I have an UPDATE! Like I mentioned I had already ordered a new LCD and cable. I got the LCD today! Guess what happened. It does turn on but no backlight.

Now what are my obvious things to consider here? The fuse on the back? I did check it with my dmm and it was 1. Could I short it just to test and see if it will work ok? Would I be able to remove the short and then properly install a fuse?
Click to expand...

When you say the fuse measures "1" is this an analog meter where the needle indicates infinity ohms? In other words it is open circuit. Or do you mean you measured 1 ohm which is basically a short circuit?

Shorting the fuse is risky. There was a reason it blew. If the condition that caused it to blow still exists and you bypass the fuse then there is a lot more damage that could be done. The fuse is a protection device to prevent that sort of damage. I recommend getting a fuse, they are cheap, and if you are in a hurry solder it on top of the existing fuse. If the fault still exists the new fuse will blow and tell you that more work is required to find the issue.

Good luck. Sounds like you are making some progress.

----------
elitetek said:
hi Dadioh,

I think I found the schematics for the macbook pro 17" A1297.

http://www.elvikom.pl/forum/obrazki/_f/f_0013018.jpg

However I still can't located the WLED driver.
Click to expand...

That is just the block diagram page at the beginning of the schematic. The schematic itself will be more than 60 pages long.
 
Dadioh said:
When you say the fuse measures "1" is this an analog meter where the needle indicates infinity ohms? In other words it is open circuit. Or do you mean you measured 1 ohm which is basically a short circuit?

Shorting the fuse is risky. There was a reason it blew. If the condition that caused it to blow still exists and you bypass the fuse then there is a lot more damage that could be done. The fuse is a protection device to prevent that sort of damage. I recommend getting a fuse, they are cheap, and if you are in a hurry solder it on top of the existing fuse. If the fault still exists the new fuse will blow and tell you that more work is required to find the issue.

Good luck. Sounds like you are making some progress.

----------



That is just the block diagram page at the beginning of the schematic. The schematic itself will be more than 60 pages long.
Click to expand...

x40lsm.jpg


That's exactly what my dmm looks like and is set to when I try to check if the fuse is open.

Also could the LVDS connector be at fault for not powering the backlight? If so, how would I test that? I'm going to try and find the fuse and see if I can get it ordered. Thanks.

Also I think I know why the fuse blew. I had left the battery installed while I was inserting and removing the LVDS cable.

I'm not sure if this info helps but when the chime sounds on the MacBook I can clearly see the backlight try to come very subtly and then go off.
 
Last edited:
If I'm going to remove the LVDS connector do I need a hot air reflow machine or can I do it with like a Hakko FX-888 soldering station?
 
PacificRimJob said:
If I'm going to remove the LVDS connector do I need a hot air reflow machine or can I do it with like a Hakko FX-888 soldering station?
Click to expand...

Hot air is quick and easy. Very tough to do with just a soldering iron.

----------
PacificRimJob said:
Image

That's exactly what my dmm looks like and is set to when I try to check if the fuse is open.

Also could the LVDS connector be at fault for not powering the backlight? If so, how would I test that? I'm going to try and find the fuse and see if I can get it ordered. Thanks.

Also I think I know why the fuse blew. I had left the battery installed while I was inserting and removing the LVDS cable.

I'm not sure if this info helps but when the chime sounds on the MacBook I can clearly see the backlight try to come very subtly and then go off.
Click to expand...

With that setting on your DMM you would get a beep if the fuse was good. Need to change it.
 
does anyone have the schematics for a Macbook pro A1297 2011 i7 or know where the WLED driver location is ? any help would be great.
 
Thanks I'm going to get a hot air machine. Probably an auyoe. Looks like a worthwhile investment.

----------

I have to give a whole bunch of props to dadioh and anyoe else who's contributed to this thread. A lot of people normally aren't as generous as dadioh. I really respect his contribution to helping so many people and not even receiving a penny. But the least ican do is give him thanks for his info.
 
elitetek said:
Could I just solder a very thin wire on both sides of the fuse to test the fuse? what would you guys recommend.
Click to expand...

Please don't do that.

I love freedom of information. I really do. I think it's an amazing thing in the 201*s that the internet has evolved past advertising, games, and porn. However, the amount of boards I've gotten to work on where someone has read this thread and put a solder blob over their fuse with burnmarks everywhere is tripled from what it was nine months ago, which has set my cynicism at record highs.

Buy a fuse. Replace the fuse. It's a 28 cent investment to not fry a $450+ board. It is worth it.

----------
PacificRimJob said:
If I'm going to remove the LVDS connector do I need a hot air reflow machine or can I do it with like a Hakko FX-888 soldering station?
Click to expand...

You need hot air to remove it. However, you need a traditional soldering iron to put the connector back on the board. The connector has several plastic parts that will warp and burn instantly if you use hot air on them. Using hot air on the new LVDS connector is a great way to throw away $18.

Getting the pins to stick to the pads is simple. Use some good flux like Amtech BGA rework stuff, a FLAT tip(not rounded). Use a thin diameter solder, put it over the pins, and run the iron over the solder. It'll just melt its way into place.

The hard part is soldering the flat portion that sits under the LVDS cable - the long bar portion. If you put too little solder on the motherboard pad, it won't allow the LVDS connector to be soldered to the board. If you put too much, solder will overflow into the connector itself as you push it to the board, and keep the cable from going in. I'm sure Dadioh has more soldering tips on getting the LVDS connector on right. I am not much of a teacher or descriptive writer.

If you have a dead board to practice on, I would suggest it.
 
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