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To the OP, I went with the INNOCN 27M2U-D. 4K, 27", Mini-LED. Not perfect, but, no monitor is. It was like CAD$480. A high-refresh gaming variant (with lower color accuracy) 27M2V is like CAD$750. Doesn't arrive for a few days, and a mini a few days after that, so I have no impressions to share.
Monitor came today. Connected to M1Pro MBP to test.

Initially, certain colors appeared to clip, where my MBP display showed fur detail of my dog, but the monitor showed a flat color, and highlights clipped when zoomed out. Adjusting the white balance I was able to get the fur detail fixed, but it was still blowing highlights. Changing color profiles didn't help.

Then I enabled HDR mode on the monitor and in the Mac display settings (which disables all other display options on the monitor) and boom, it suddenly looked identical to my MBP display. I was under the impression the MBP display only switched to an HDR mode when displaying HDR content, but it appears it's in that mode all the time, it just limits brightness, but you're still getting some sort of benefit.

When set to use non-integer "Use As" mode of 2560x1440 everything looks fine. Lightroom UI is fine. Terminal windows are fine.
 
Everything I’ve been reading says that Macs need to be connected to a monitor with a 218+ If possible, please include invoice number on your payment. Thank you.....

I don't understand. What makes 218+ the preferred pixel density? I have been using a 32" 1440P display connected to my M1 Max MacBook Pro and it works fine.

-kp
 
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Monitor came today. Connected to M1Pro MBP to test.

Initially, certain colors appeared to clip, where my MBP display showed fur detail of my dog, but the monitor showed a flat color, and highlights clipped when zoomed out. Adjusting the white balance I was able to get the fur detail fixed, but it was still blowing highlights. Changing color profiles didn't help.

Then I enabled HDR mode on the monitor and in the Mac display settings (which disables all other display options on the monitor) and boom, it suddenly looked identical to my MBP display. I was under the impression the MBP display only switched to an HDR mode when displaying HDR content, but it appears it's in that mode all the time, it just limits brightness, but you're still getting some sort of benefit.

When set to use non-integer "Use As" mode of 2560x1440 everything looks fine. Lightroom UI is fine. Terminal windows are fine.
Found your comment as I have this same monitor that I got yesterday to use with my Mac mini that's coming. I have it on my MBP and set it to HDR Standard and enabled HDR in the Mac settings and I can detect a very faint flicker when I do that. I tried it because I too see the blown out whites but haven't messed with any white balance on it yet. Curious if you are still using HDR or not.
 
I just got a Philips 346P1CRH/00 free from work that I'm going to use with my mini. I hooked it up to my 16" M3 Max and it looked awful until I used BetterDisplay to tweak it. Now have it at 1.25 scaling and 2752x1152 HiDPI and it looks much better. Actually very pleased how it looks
 
Found your comment as I have this same monitor that I got yesterday to use with my Mac mini that's coming. I have it on my MBP and set it to HDR Standard and enabled HDR in the Mac settings and I can detect a very faint flicker when I do that. I tried it because I too see the blown out whites but haven't messed with any white balance on it yet. Curious if you are still using HDR or not.
Only got it yesterday, and I'm not really using the monitor (waiting on the M4 Mini), but did use the MBP to ensure it works. I'm not seeing flickering.

I have it set to HDR Design, as it seems to best match my MBP's display, which I'm assuming is accurate. When in HDR mode all other settings are disabled, so you can't set white balance, brightness, etc.

I have response time set to off, and Eyeshield Remind off (whatever that is).

I'm using the supplied HDMI cable into HDMI1.

On the Mac I have it set to use HDR, and use Display P3 rather than the monitor's profile, as the monitor's profile seems to boost darker colors a bit. I have the Mac set to output 60Hz. Oddly, using 30Hz creates banding in gradients.
 
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For real estate - try a dual display setup. You can get two decent 4k displays for a lot less than a Studio Display - I find two separate displays makes window management easier and often have the primary app full-screened on one with other app windows on the second display.

I run two Dell P2715Q's on my M2 Max Studio daily, and the Experience is quite nice.

Not quite as nice as the other options out there, but extremely adequate :)
 
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I don't understand. What makes 218+ the preferred pixel density? I have been using a 32" 1440P display connected to my M1 Max MacBook Pro and it works fine.
If it works for you. don't sweat it. Not too many years ago, 1440p was bleeding edge - the legendary Apple 30" cinema display was "only" 2560x1600 (100ppi) and there are probably still a few people out there rocking those, plus the later 1440p LED Cinema Displays... As per previous posts, it also depends on how far you prefer to sit away from your screen.

One change Apple has made in recent years is disabling a feature called "sub-pixel anti-aliasing"[1] which made font rendering on non-retina displays a bit worse - so your display has been actually unusable since Mac OS Mojave and any practical use you've think you've had from it since is a figment of your imagination. I thought you should know that :)

Realistically, though, the point is that people have been spoiled by "retina" displays, including the 5k iMac which (for some reason) Apple was able to sell at a too-good-to-be-true price until recently. Use a retina display for a while and your current 1440p screen will suddenly look like it's been constructed in Minecraft.

The root of this is a fundamental difference between Mac and PC/Windows/Linux when it comes to displays:

Displays sold primary for PCs are based on a range of standard "pixels wide x pixels high" resolutions e.g. 640x480 ("VGA") or 3840x2160 ("UHD") and if you buy a bigger display you get bigger pixels, lower PPI and by default everything just appears bigger and blockier. Since at least Windows 3 you've been able to adjust exactly what Windows "thinks" is the PPI of the display, and the Windows UI and well behaved applications will re-scale their UI accordingly. The downsides of that are the "well behaved" requirement (app writes have to follow the rules or the results get garbled or unusably small) and that any bitmaps/other graphics assets will have to be re-scaled from whatever resolution the developer provided to the user-selected PPI. Of course, CRT screens didn't really have a well-defined fixed PPI in the same way that LCD screens do - just an upper limit on definition with no guarantee that the computer pixels would line up with the phosphor dots/stripes on the screen.

Apple displays (built into Macs or stand-alone) have tended instead to go for a fixed PPI, and if you buy a larger screen you get more pixels and more real estate. From the original Macs, through to the early 90s models, Apple's screens were in the 70-80ppi ball-park[2] so one "point" = 1/72" = close to 1 pixel , which made a lot of sense back when the killer app for the Mac was desktop publishing. MacOS and application UIs were designed assuming ~72 ppi. Although it is only a rule of thumb - there are some Mac models that don't fit - this "fixed resolution" idea has persisted with the "standard" resolution advancing to ~110ppi by around 2010. Then "retina" displays saw a doubling of linear resolution and MacOS started offering two "standard" PPI scales: standard-def 110ppi, and "HiDPI/Retina" 220ppi - and since this was an exact doubling, bitmap assets could be easily converted between the two with the minimum of artefacts.

Apart from the standard/retina factor-of-two choice (and even for that you have to jump through hoops to select a standard def mode on a high-def display or vice versa) you can't change the PPI scale value used by the OS - instead you have "scaled" modes that effectively render at 110 or 220 ppi (which shouldn't break applications) to an internal buffer and then re-sample the result to match the physical resolution of your screen. This is the "fractional scaling" bogeyman that is either near-invisible or makes your eyes bleed. YMMV.

Today, the 24" iMac, the 27" Studio Display and the Pro XDR display are all 218ppi, the 13" MBA is 224ppi and The 14 and 16" MBPs are all 254ppi - so it's only "ball park" but still near-constant compared to the variation between the smallest (13") and largest (32") screen! Also, some MacBooks default to a fractional-scaling mode.

[1] NB: There are actually good reasons for obsoleting sub-pixel anti-aliasing other than spite: it works by tweaking the brightness of the individual red, green and blue subpixels - of which there are 3 per pixel - around the edges of characters to smooth out the pixels. That doesn't work well with the translucent UI elements in current OSs and it relies on the OS knowing how the R/G/B sub-pixels are arranged on your screen - and alternative layouts like "pentile" are increasingly common esp. with OLED displays. If it goes wrong you get horrible rainbow fringes around the text - that used to happen if your display somehow ended up in YPbPr moder rather than RGB.

[2] I seem to recall the early displays being factory set to exactly 72ppi - which is easily do-able by tweaking a pot on a mono CRT - but can't find a source for that.
 
I'm running a 31" MSI MPG-321URX QD-OLED on M1 mini. This is a 4K monitor but am running it at 2560x1440 (to get more retina-like display quality). Quite pleased with the results. Runs at 120 Hz no problem (although this is a 240 Hz monitor) and looks great. Connected via USB-C using Apple cable.

Does anyone know if M4 Pro is going to support 240 Hz at 4K resolution, and would it need a TB5 cable?
 
@yalej "Does anyone know if M4 Pro is going to support 240 Hz at 4K resolution, and would it need a TB5 cable?"

Apple seems to know - both the M4 and M4 Pro can do it, so it's TB4 or TB5. But its not clear whether it needs a TB5 (DP 2.1) cable:

M4
...4K resolution at 240Hz over Thunderbolt or HDMI

M4 Pro
Simultaneously supports up to three displays:
  • Up to three displays: three displays with up to 6K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt or HDMI
  • Up to two displays: one display with up to 6K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt and one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz over Thunderbolt or HDMI
Thunderbolt 5 digital video output
  • Support for native DisplayPort 2.1 output over USB‑C
HDMI display video output
  • Support for one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz (M4 and M4 Pro)
 
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Only got it yesterday, and I'm not really using the monitor (waiting on the M4 Mini), but did use the MBP to ensure it works. I'm not seeing flickering.

I have it set to HDR Design, as it seems to best match my MBP's display, which I'm assuming is accurate. When in HDR mode all other settings are disabled, so you can't set white balance, brightness, etc.

I have response time set to off, and Eyeshield Remind off (whatever that is).

I'm using the supplied HDMI cable into HDMI1.

On the Mac I have it set to use HDR, and use Display P3 rather than the monitor's profile, as the monitor's profile seems to boost darker colors a bit. I have the Mac set to output 60Hz. Oddly, using 30Hz creates banding in gradients.
Interesting. I tried your settings and the display is very different than my M2 MBP. The whites on the monitor are very yellow-ish. I do have True Tone turned on on my MPB and when I turn that off, it's better from a white balance standpoint.
 
I thought I would dive in to this thread in hopes to get an answer I can't seem to find... I am interested in the new Mini with TWO LG UltraFine 5K monitors. Is that supported? I currently use the last iteration of 27" iMac with a built-in 5K and got the LG 27" 5K as a 2nd monitor and I LOVE the setup, but looking for a more more horsepower than the iMac provides. It's not clear to me in the specs that it supports more than 1 5K monitor although it does say "up to 8K". Perhaps I'm over thinking it?

...AND if it does do the 2 5K via TB would the Pro support a 4K via HDMI as well?
 
I thought I would dive in to this thread in hopes to get an answer I can't seem to find... I am interested in the new Mini with TWO LG UltraFine 5K monitors. Is that supported? I currently use the last iteration of 27" iMac with a built-in 5K and got the LG 27" 5K as a 2nd monitor and I LOVE the setup, but looking for a more more horsepower than the iMac provides. It's not clear to me in the specs that it supports more than 1 5K monitor although it does say "up to 8K". Perhaps I'm over thinking it?

...AND if it does do the 2 5K via TB would the Pro support a 4K via HDMI as well?

Sounds like you're ok with either M4 or M4 Pro for what you want to do.

Source: mac mini tech specs

For M4 Pro:
  • Up to three displays: Three displays with up to 6K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt or HDMI
  • Up to two displays: One display with up to 6K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt and one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz over Thunderbolt or HDMI

For M4:
  • Up to three displays: Two displays with up to 6K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt and one display with up to 5K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt or 4K resolution at 60Hz over HDMI
  • Up to two displays: One display with up to 5K resolution at 60Hz over Thunderbolt and one display with up to 8K resolution at 60Hz or 4K resolution at 240Hz over Thunderbolt or HDMI
 
I just got a Philips 346P1CRH/00 free from work that I'm going to use with my mini. I hooked it up to my 16" M3 Max and it looked awful until I used BetterDisplay to tweak it. Now have it at 1.25 scaling and 2752x1152 HiDPI and it looks much better. Actually very pleased how it looks

I find using BetterDisplay very helpful too. It would be a shame to just dismiss lower resolution external monitors, without having tried BetterDisplay and its HiDPI settings first.

Below is a simple screenshot showing a comparison of using BetterDisplay vs not using it, on a 2560 x 1440 monitor connected to my MacBook running Sequoia 15.1. The screenshot is zoomed-in by 200 % to magnify the difference. The green framed part is with BetterDisplay. The white framed part is without i.e. normal.

I am not sure if the comparison is technically valid, but it shows the actual difference my eyes are seeing in real life when using BetterDisplay on this setup:

The system setup is:
Resolution: 5120 x 2880
UI Looks like: 2560 x 1440
Monitor native resolution 2560 x 1440 (Lenovo ThinkVision T27hv-20)
Font smoothing: 2 (Default)

200 % zoom:

BetterDisplay 060.png
 
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I find using BetterDisplay very helpful too. It would be a shame to just dismiss lower resolution external monitors, without having tried BetterDisplay and its HiDPI settings first.

Below is a simple screenshot showing a comparison of using BetterDisplay vs not using it, on a 2560 x 1440 monitor connected to my MacBook running Sequoia 15.1. The screenshot is zoomed-in by 200 % to magnify the difference. The green framed part is with BetterDisplay. The white framed part is without i.e. normal.

I am not sure of the comparison is technically valid, but it shows the actual difference my eyes are seeing in real life when using BetterDisplay on this setup:

The system setup is:
Resolution: 5120 x 2880
UI Looks like: 2560 x 1440
Monitor native resolution 2560 x 1440 (Lenovo ThinkVision T27hv-20)
Font smoothing: 2 (Default)

200 % zoom:

View attachment 2447341
I took the monitor out of the box, tried it, saw how awful it looked and packed it away again. I then did some searching around and read about BetterDisplay and this resolution. Tweaked it and was over the moon with the results. Instantly paid for a BD pro licence. I've also used it on the internal display of my 16" and has allowed me to find a nice comfortable scaled resolution for my eyes. Game changer. I'm now tempted to look at a 3440x1440 with a high refresh rate on Black Friday.

Thanks for posting this, hopefully others benefit too.
 
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Have 2 Studio Displays and the Caldigit TS4 dock. Want to plug 1 displsy into DisplayPort (with adapter) and display 2 into USB C port, both on the dock. Does anyone know if that will work?
 
That is, you do not understand the difference between a program screenshot and a monitor screen. Sad. This program can be useful for internal displays (it was originally created for hackintoshes). It cannot affect the operation of an external monitor, but it can break the interface. If that makes you feel better, so be it. But I don't need it, thanks.
P.S. When you finally understand that this program does more harm than good, another unpleasant moment awaits you: the program does not remove from the computer. Good luck :)
Lunar is similar in functionality. But I think it's better not to use it either.
 
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I find using BetterDisplay very helpful too. It would be a shame to just dismiss lower resolution external monitors, without having tried BetterDisplay and its HiDPI settings first.

Below is a simple screenshot showing a comparison of using BetterDisplay vs not using it, on a 2560 x 1440 monitor connected to my MacBook running Sequoia 15.1. The screenshot is zoomed-in by 200 % to magnify the difference. The green framed part is with BetterDisplay. The white framed part is without i.e. normal.

I am not sure if the comparison is technically valid, but it shows the actual difference my eyes are seeing in real life when using BetterDisplay on this setup:

The system setup is:
Resolution: 5120 x 2880
UI Looks like: 2560 x 1440
Monitor native resolution 2560 x 1440 (Lenovo ThinkVision T27hv-20)
Font smoothing: 2 (Default)

200 % zoom:

View attachment 2447341
Wow. I must try this.
 
I’m currently using a 27-inch iMac 5K Retina (2020) and are considering switching to the new Mac mini, primarily for the Apple Intelligence features expected to arrive in December here in the UK. I edit a car club magazine as a volunteer, and I want to make sure I get the right monitor to pair with it, ideally sticking with a 27-inch size.

I’ve come across some useful information in this thread, but I keep coming back to the idea of getting the Apple Studio Display. Not many other monitors seem to offer built-in webcam and speakers, which are important since I use Zoom for remote meetings. Additionally, I’m very into photography, so I want a display that can handle that as well.
 
That is, you do not understand the difference between a program screenshot and a monitor screen. Sad.

I'm guessing your post is directed at me. I was reluctant to post a screenshot, as I do understand (and wrote) it might not be a technically valid comparison, but seeing the same improvement with my own eyes on the external monitor, I decided to post it.

It cannot affect the operation of an external monitor, but it can break the interface.

🤔 well ok then...
 
I'm guessing your post is directed at me. I was reluctant to post a screenshot, as I do understand (and wrote) it might not be a technically valid comparison, but seeing the same improvement with my own eyes on the external monitor, I decided to post it.



🤔 well ok then...
I appreciate your post and will give BetterDisplay a try.
 
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That is, you do not understand the difference between a program screenshot and a monitor screen. Sad. This program can be useful for internal displays (it was originally created for hackintoshes). It cannot affect the operation of an external monitor, but it can break the interface. If that makes you feel better, so be it. But I don't need it, thanks.
P.S. When you finally understand that this program does more harm than good, another unpleasant moment awaits you: the program does not remove from the computer. Good luck :)
Lunar is similar in functionality. But I think it's better not to use it either.
It was made clear in the post that it was a screen grab and at 200% to simulate the difference the poster experienced visually.

And not sure what you mean by "more harm than good" .... do you have any evidence, or just trying to be edgy?
 
I connected my Mac mini to a 43" 4K television. I love it and will never go back to a traditional monitor.
 
8K TVs can be easily had for under $2K and sometimes you find a deal for one under $1K. https://www.gamesradar.com/get-this-stunning-samsung-8k-tv-for-under-dollar1000-today/

Bestbuy has an 8K for $1200 when I checked just now https://www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-65-...d-smart-webos-tv-2021/6461910.p?skuId=6461910

The M4 can easily handle a giant screen.

Thunderbolt3/Thunderbolt4/USB4/HDMI maxes out at ~6K of usable non-compressed bandwidth, but even these old 2016 technologies can do 8K with compression(DSC). The compression is basically unnoticeable.

Thunderbolt5 on the M4-Pro/Max can handle 8K without compressing it.
 
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