Mine is a roadster, and is just the standard BMC B-series 1800cc I-4. I actually have been bouncing back and forth on buying a local GT-it's a rubber bumper(actually one of 1200ish rubber bumper GTs imported to the US) and is $3000.
In any case, with many things on the car maintenance intervals are more time dependent than mileage dependent. I just replaced ~20 year old tires(on the car when I bought it) that were probably at 70% tread or better. Since the car doesn't get driven a LOT in the winter, it gets a fall oil change which is generally far under the specified 6000 miles. I also make sure winter trips are long enough to get the oil up to temperature, which sometimes means just arbitrarily driving around to wherever to do so. Of course, lately I've been doing a lot of that on days where I drive the car to work although I stray a lot further from home in it than in the winter.
If anything I'd drop the viscosity a bit in the winter to make starting easier, although since block heaters aren't common here I'll often just put a work lamp with an incandescent bulb under the oil pan for a few hours before I plan on starting it.
The valve cover gets pulled a few times a year to set valve lash, and I've observed no sludge with only some traces of varnish. It's a nice healthy engine that gives a flat 150 psi compression across all four cylinders and will hold just a shade under 50 psi of oil pressure at hot idle.
In any case, with many things on the car maintenance intervals are more time dependent than mileage dependent. I just replaced ~20 year old tires(on the car when I bought it) that were probably at 70% tread or better. Since the car doesn't get driven a LOT in the winter, it gets a fall oil change which is generally far under the specified 6000 miles. I also make sure winter trips are long enough to get the oil up to temperature, which sometimes means just arbitrarily driving around to wherever to do so. Of course, lately I've been doing a lot of that on days where I drive the car to work although I stray a lot further from home in it than in the winter.
If anything I'd drop the viscosity a bit in the winter to make starting easier, although since block heaters aren't common here I'll often just put a work lamp with an incandescent bulb under the oil pan for a few hours before I plan on starting it.
The valve cover gets pulled a few times a year to set valve lash, and I've observed no sludge with only some traces of varnish. It's a nice healthy engine that gives a flat 150 psi compression across all four cylinders and will hold just a shade under 50 psi of oil pressure at hot idle.