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Powerbook G4 CCFL backlight replacement
- Thread starter macstatic
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Turns out my applecare still covers this, but I am now thinking about replacing the LCD on my ibook 12in. Anyone know of a good replacement screen that is brighter and maybe higher in resolution(than stock)?
I seem to be having some display problems starting tonight. (I have a 15" Powerbook G4, 1.5GHz, will be exactly 4 years old next month.) I'm not entirely sure it's the CCFL, or the inverter, and I'm hoping someone here may be able to help me out. My display just started flickering tonight. The backlight will flicker then just go dark. The LCD itself is fine, I've taken a flashlight to it while it was out, and there seem to be no problems with what is actually displayed. My hunch is that it's the CCFL that I have to replace, but I wanted to see if my hunch is right, or if I should replace the inverter first.
I've sort of thought for a while that the backlight was going out, as the display would have a sort of redish tint to it after waking up, and when it's dimmed, even a little, the bottom left corner has just a bit of the same redish tint. I'm not entirely sure this is a sign that the CCFL was going out, or it just happens on older computers.
I've sort of thought for a while that the backlight was going out, as the display would have a sort of redish tint to it after waking up, and when it's dimmed, even a little, the bottom left corner has just a bit of the same redish tint. I'm not entirely sure this is a sign that the CCFL was going out, or it just happens on older computers.
I may be completely wrong, but it seems that you're saying the backlight flickers, then dies out, but the next time you turn on the computer it does the same thing?
It sounds like the inverter having problems supplying power to it as it "ignites" the CCFL, but then fails to continue giving it power.
With a worn out CCFL you probably wouldn't see it lighting up again before dying on you, but instead a faint light all the time (or nothing at all).
I'd put my money on the inverter, but that's really just a guess.
You can also try to press the darker/lighter buttons on your keyboard to see if the CCFL will re-ignite, then die out again.
At least, if it's the inverter you don't have to risk damaging the screen like I did! You can get hold of a replacement inverter at eBay (check around for one that doesn't cost too much as some people over-price them -search for "Powerbook inverter" and be sure to get the one for your specific Powerbook. I don't know if they're more or less the same, but I wouldn't experiment too much if you intend to keep your computer in working order).
If the inverter doesn't help you can always change the CCFL (at least then you don't have much to loose as you might have to replace the LCD anyway if you mess things up).
I'll post further instructions about changing the CCFL with photos and all later, as promised, although this might take a while.
It sounds like the inverter having problems supplying power to it as it "ignites" the CCFL, but then fails to continue giving it power.
With a worn out CCFL you probably wouldn't see it lighting up again before dying on you, but instead a faint light all the time (or nothing at all).
I'd put my money on the inverter, but that's really just a guess.
You can also try to press the darker/lighter buttons on your keyboard to see if the CCFL will re-ignite, then die out again.
At least, if it's the inverter you don't have to risk damaging the screen like I did! You can get hold of a replacement inverter at eBay (check around for one that doesn't cost too much as some people over-price them -search for "Powerbook inverter" and be sure to get the one for your specific Powerbook. I don't know if they're more or less the same, but I wouldn't experiment too much if you intend to keep your computer in working order).
If the inverter doesn't help you can always change the CCFL (at least then you don't have much to loose as you might have to replace the LCD anyway if you mess things up).
I'll post further instructions about changing the CCFL with photos and all later, as promised, although this might take a while.
Well, the symptoms to me seemed like the CCFL burned out. I could adjust the brightness all the way off after it had flickered out, but then increase it again, and it would be quite dim and flicker off again. I also tried listening closely near the bottom of the display and there was a faint buzzing sound that sounds exactly like a regular fluorescent light that's gone out.
I ended up getting a broken LCD off ebay that had a good CCFL, and I managed to take that LCD apart (mostly for practice) then took my own apart. Looking at the bulb it was sort of blackened on both ends. Unfortunately, when it came time to do the desoldering and soldering of the wires, the good bulb from the broken screen I got ended up breaking. Then trying to just put my LCD back together, it seemed like it would take a lot more patience and experience than I have (and I really took my time just getting things apart in the first place). So I've ended up buying a brand new LCD for a pretty good price. Just waiting on that to come now. Then I'm just gonna hope that it all works and that it wasn't the inverter after all.
I ended up getting a broken LCD off ebay that had a good CCFL, and I managed to take that LCD apart (mostly for practice) then took my own apart. Looking at the bulb it was sort of blackened on both ends. Unfortunately, when it came time to do the desoldering and soldering of the wires, the good bulb from the broken screen I got ended up breaking. Then trying to just put my LCD back together, it seemed like it would take a lot more patience and experience than I have (and I really took my time just getting things apart in the first place). So I've ended up buying a brand new LCD for a pretty good price. Just waiting on that to come now. Then I'm just gonna hope that it all works and that it wasn't the inverter after all.
Sorry to hear about your broken CCFL. Yes, they're tricky. I found out that the best way to go about it is hold as close to one end as possible. It's much harder for it to break than if you hold it in the middle and "bend" it, causing it to snap.
I'm looking for a new LCD as well (Samsung LTN152W6-L01), but haven't found anyone selling it for a good price while having it in stock. Where did you buy yours, and for how much?
Hopefully all will work well with the new LCD, but if it is the inverter at least it's really simple to replace, unlike the LCD which is a royal pain.
I'm looking for a new LCD as well (Samsung LTN152W6-L01), but haven't found anyone selling it for a good price while having it in stock. Where did you buy yours, and for how much?
Hopefully all will work well with the new LCD, but if it is the inverter at least it's really simple to replace, unlike the LCD which is a royal pain.
Found it on ebay. $195+35 shipping (including insurance) It's a brand new IBM version of the display. The same guy has another one up now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PowerBook-G4-Ti...ryZ31569QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I should be getting mine tomorrow, the shipping definitely wasn't the quickest, as it came from Taiwan and had to go through customs and such. There may be something cheaper on ebay now, but I definitely couldn't find a new display for under 300 anywhere else.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PowerBook-G4-Ti...ryZ31569QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I should be getting mine tomorrow, the shipping definitely wasn't the quickest, as it came from Taiwan and had to go through customs and such. There may be something cheaper on ebay now, but I definitely couldn't find a new display for under 300 anywhere else.
Oh yes, I've seen that eBay page as well.
Unfortunately it's not the resolution of my Powerbook (1440x960), and the cheapest Samsung LTN152W6-L01 I've come across is at Lapzone for $ 279 (+ shipping).
Unfortunately they're out of stock at the moment.
Tell us how it goes when you receive the LCD.
Unfortunately it's not the resolution of my Powerbook (1440x960), and the cheapest Samsung LTN152W6-L01 I've come across is at Lapzone for $ 279 (+ shipping).
Unfortunately they're out of stock at the moment.
Tell us how it goes when you receive the LCD.
Ah, yeah, I needed the lower res one. I got it all installed yesterday, works perfectly. The install was pretty easy, but putting it all back together was a bit of a pain. The only problem I've run into, is I didn't know I had to take the magnet off the back of the old display and put it onto the new display, so when I close the lid, it doesn't sleep. Gotta go back in there and glue that on.
While waiting for my LCD, I did find a service that actually will do the CCFL install for you. Only $79 http://www.ccfldirect.com/bare.html
Wish I'd known about this before I went through all that trouble.
While waiting for my LCD, I did find a service that actually will do the CCFL install for you. Only $79 http://www.ccfldirect.com/bare.html
Wish I'd known about this before I went through all that trouble.
Congrats!
Always a relief when this sort of thing is over and done with.
Fortunately opening up the screen again isn't a risky thing (unlike opening the LCD itself). I trust you've been using a "spudger" tool or something similar (e.g. an old credit card etc.) to pry open the display cover so that you won't get any damage or ugly marks in the plastic.
Yeah, wish I had known about those kind of services as well. Haven't heard about many companies doing it, but Moniserv (LCDparts) seems to replace a laptop's CCFL for $ 30 + the cost of the CCFL (around $9-12 as far as I remember). Scroll to the bottom of the page.
40 bucks (plus shipping I guess) isn't much to pay if the alternative is damaging the LCD and needing to fork out $ 300 for a new one.
Always a relief when this sort of thing is over and done with.
Fortunately opening up the screen again isn't a risky thing (unlike opening the LCD itself). I trust you've been using a "spudger" tool or something similar (e.g. an old credit card etc.) to pry open the display cover so that you won't get any damage or ugly marks in the plastic.
Yeah, wish I had known about those kind of services as well. Haven't heard about many companies doing it, but Moniserv (LCDparts) seems to replace a laptop's CCFL for $ 30 + the cost of the CCFL (around $9-12 as far as I remember). Scroll to the bottom of the page.
40 bucks (plus shipping I guess) isn't much to pay if the alternative is damaging the LCD and needing to fork out $ 300 for a new one.
Though this discussion is quite old, the information here has proved very very useful to me, thanks to all the member for posting their experiences here!
I too am in a similar boat (bad inverter - powerbook g4 17") and am trying to get the lcd panel open. But though I am following the instructions from PowerbookMedic (http://www.powerbookmedic.com/Manuals/17-inch-powerbook-manual.pdf), i simply am not able to figure out how to open the latch to remove the plastic bezel from the frame ! I am already managed to damage the plastic edge, so I might as well finish this job.
Can someone please advise me on the procedure to remove the lcd frame ?
thanks !!
I too am in a similar boat (bad inverter - powerbook g4 17") and am trying to get the lcd panel open. But though I am following the instructions from PowerbookMedic (http://www.powerbookmedic.com/Manuals/17-inch-powerbook-manual.pdf), i simply am not able to figure out how to open the latch to remove the plastic bezel from the frame ! I am already managed to damage the plastic edge, so I might as well finish this job.
Can someone please advise me on the procedure to remove the lcd frame ?
thanks !!
Yikes! maybe try a different approach.
I don't really know what you are talking about as far as the specifics of your post goes.
I'm not sure what you mean by "latch" because if you are referring to the actual powerbook screen latch, you don't need to touch this.
I really hope you didn't take apart your entire laptop to replace the inverter, because you don't need to touch the computer base, just the LCD frame. I'm going to assume you started on page 23 of the manual and I'd actually refer you to another guide that is a bit more specific, even though it's for a Macbook Pro, it's a great walkthrough. Make sure you are prying BEHIND the plastic (EXAMPLE)
to keep from damaging the plastic, maybe use a credit card, guitar pick or another hard plastic prying tool. Don't use a screwdriver or ice pick. Never explosives.
the trick is that after you unscrew the two holding screws, you should just start prying gently and keep trying different spots. There are a series of plastic catches holding the lid on and some of these will pop apart easier than others. The metal LCD surround (bezel) is against a light gray plastic trim strip. You want to pry between this plastic strip and the metal screen back. This is well shown on page 25 of the manual you are using or :Check THIS photo out.
If you can use a thin plastic pry tool to start it and then insert a thicker, stronger pry tool like the card, you should get a satisfying click as the catches start releasing. Again, keep trying different spots and work slowly. I bet your problem isn't with the inverter though. I've had "inverter" symptoms on 5 powerbooks and it was a problem with the logic board on 5 of them. Maybe you'll get lucky.
I'm sure you can do it, stick with it.
I don't really know what you are talking about as far as the specifics of your post goes.
I'm not sure what you mean by "latch" because if you are referring to the actual powerbook screen latch, you don't need to touch this.
I really hope you didn't take apart your entire laptop to replace the inverter, because you don't need to touch the computer base, just the LCD frame. I'm going to assume you started on page 23 of the manual and I'd actually refer you to another guide that is a bit more specific, even though it's for a Macbook Pro, it's a great walkthrough. Make sure you are prying BEHIND the plastic (EXAMPLE)
to keep from damaging the plastic, maybe use a credit card, guitar pick or another hard plastic prying tool. Don't use a screwdriver or ice pick. Never explosives.
the trick is that after you unscrew the two holding screws, you should just start prying gently and keep trying different spots. There are a series of plastic catches holding the lid on and some of these will pop apart easier than others. The metal LCD surround (bezel) is against a light gray plastic trim strip. You want to pry between this plastic strip and the metal screen back. This is well shown on page 25 of the manual you are using or :Check THIS photo out.
If you can use a thin plastic pry tool to start it and then insert a thicker, stronger pry tool like the card, you should get a satisfying click as the catches start releasing. Again, keep trying different spots and work slowly. I bet your problem isn't with the inverter though. I've had "inverter" symptoms on 5 powerbooks and it was a problem with the logic board on 5 of them. Maybe you'll get lucky.
I'm sure you can do it, stick with it.
Ccfl
A couple places. One is CCFL direct. The other would be to troll for cracked screens on eBay. I'd also try to use one ebay supplier that I've had great success with, but it looks like they are no longer selling on eBay.
Here's one on eBay that doesn't have the same screen resolution but the CCFL will be the right size. you might have some small difference in the housing mechanism, but if you use the setup with your powerbook now it should work.
how do you know it's the CCFL?
A couple places. One is CCFL direct. The other would be to troll for cracked screens on eBay. I'd also try to use one ebay supplier that I've had great success with, but it looks like they are no longer selling on eBay.
Here's one on eBay that doesn't have the same screen resolution but the CCFL will be the right size. you might have some small difference in the housing mechanism, but if you use the setup with your powerbook now it should work.
how do you know it's the CCFL?
Can anyone who has successfully changed their CCFL bulb in an 15" PowerBook G4 please post what bulb you used, or anything about the bulb? I've tried skimming the posts and they are quite extensive, but I've seen nothing stating exactly what bulb anyone has used and if it worked properly. I sent a message to JKL Components and someone replied back and mentioned a bulb based on past sales, but that bulb is about 10mm shorter than my measurement. Surely the importance of what bulb is not just in it's length but in the other specs also, correct? I mean, for instance, I've seen two bulbs of similar length and 1 operates at around 5,000K (color temperature that we see as daylight) and the other around 8,000K (much cooler/bluer color temperature). So that of course would affect the color cast of everything that is seen on screen.
Does anyone know anything about the specs that could shed some light on this (no pun intended)? And if you know what bulb you used, please let me know. I have a computer in pieces down to the bulb for a few days now.
Does anyone know anything about the specs that could shed some light on this (no pun intended)? And if you know what bulb you used, please let me know. I have a computer in pieces down to the bulb for a few days now.
Rather than start a new thread, it seemed like my problem fit into this older one.
I was given a 1ghz G4 titanium 15" PB DVI, 768mb, 60GB, Superdrive, Airport. The previous owner reported that the LCD may be dead and the battery might also be marginal. Found a power adapter for it and started it up.
1) Boot chime, but no display on the LCD.
2) Shining a flashlight on the screen showed that the desktop was being displayed. The internal clock had gone all the way back to default 1999.
3) Attaching an external monitor via DVI --> VGA works fine.
4) While changing the resolution of the screen for the external monitor, I noticed that everytime there was a setting change, the PB's LCD would come on for a split second, then revert to black/unlit.
Moving the PB's LCD panel on the hinges has no effect, only the changing of the video resolution seems to cause the brief display light up.
So, does this scenario sound like an inverter bulb failure, inverter logic board, or both?
Since I have $0 invested in this device, spending a bit to replace parts seems reasonable. Thanks in advance for any advice.
I was given a 1ghz G4 titanium 15" PB DVI, 768mb, 60GB, Superdrive, Airport. The previous owner reported that the LCD may be dead and the battery might also be marginal. Found a power adapter for it and started it up.
1) Boot chime, but no display on the LCD.
2) Shining a flashlight on the screen showed that the desktop was being displayed. The internal clock had gone all the way back to default 1999.
3) Attaching an external monitor via DVI --> VGA works fine.
4) While changing the resolution of the screen for the external monitor, I noticed that everytime there was a setting change, the PB's LCD would come on for a split second, then revert to black/unlit.
Moving the PB's LCD panel on the hinges has no effect, only the changing of the video resolution seems to cause the brief display light up.
So, does this scenario sound like an inverter bulb failure, inverter logic board, or both?
Since I have $0 invested in this device, spending a bit to replace parts seems reasonable. Thanks in advance for any advice.
hmmm
From everything I have read about it, it sounds like it is either your inverter board OR cable. Not the backlight. With the backlight being out, it won't light up at all, with it coming on and off, it sounds like a connectivity issue.
Best of luck!!!
to the original poster: what ever happened with your computer???
From everything I have read about it, it sounds like it is either your inverter board OR cable. Not the backlight. With the backlight being out, it won't light up at all, with it coming on and off, it sounds like a connectivity issue.
Best of luck!!!
to the original poster: what ever happened with your computer???
Thanks. Since that last post, I replaced the inverter board with a known good unit. Upon reassembly, there was no change, so I opened it up again to "double check" that the two cables, data and the pink & white power, were in solid. They seemed to be fine, so I reassembled and booted again.
This time the LCD lit up as it should and stayed lit till I shut it down so that I could open it up again to make sure all the connections were solid and that all the fasteners inside were proper.
Of course . . . the LCD went dead.
Spent the next two hours going over the steps and triple checking . . . still behaving like it did originally, the LCD will flash for a split second during boot or when the resolution is being changed.Conclusion at the moment:
1) The tube is probably good since it lit up once and does so every now and then.
2) High probability that it's either the data cable, power cable or both either failing or not properly connected at the other end.
3) The Powerbook killed the known good inverter during the install/test and now it's a zombie like the original part.
god that sucks!!! did you ever get it back up and running? i finally sold mine on ebay. i was tired of messing with it. i love macs but i have had 3 powerbooks go belly up on me. I understand that they are older models, but good god... so i decided to play it safe with an imac that doesn't get moved (except when i have to remove a usb device to attach other, which happens often, we need MORE usb ports!) lol. and tonight my brand new, just out of the box ipod touch was effing up. it's aggravating.
sweet up and running but!
Got the bulb replaced took about 3 hours and lots of fiddling to get it into place.
thanks for the support and manuals!
now it seems to be working but all i get is a white screen..
i ended up taking the bulb out of y old cracked screen so got a bit of practice befour putting it back into the uncracked screen.. but now why is the screen only showing up white boots up ok goes to sleep ect but wont adjust the brightness from what i can see!
also i cut the wifi antenna whilst crimping the screen back togeather not sure if that has any thing to do with y the screen is white.. anyideas?
regards Drewbinson
Got the bulb replaced took about 3 hours and lots of fiddling to get it into place.
thanks for the support and manuals!
now it seems to be working but all i get is a white screen..
i ended up taking the bulb out of y old cracked screen so got a bit of practice befour putting it back into the uncracked screen.. but now why is the screen only showing up white boots up ok goes to sleep ect but wont adjust the brightness from what i can see!
also i cut the wifi antenna whilst crimping the screen back togeather not sure if that has any thing to do with y the screen is white.. anyideas?
regards Drewbinson
powerbook backlight
but....if you had purchsed a pc instead, you could have bought a complete new screen for about $80, Oh, but it wouldnt have the little apple on it, oh well.
but....if you had purchsed a pc instead, you could have bought a complete new screen for about $80, Oh, but it wouldnt have the little apple on it, oh well.
Welcome to the forum. We look forward to more useful and informative posts from you.
Hey did you ever get this to work?
...Sorry if this was answered in a reply, I don't really want to read every single post.
If you, or anybody else has done this, I'd really like you to PM me. My powerbook 12"'s screen has gone so dim, it's bad. I want to replace the CCFL, but I would like some advice.
Thanks
