I always Zero-ed my drive before I use it. But the **** drive kept dying on me. Bye Seagate. WD, Hitachi, Fujitsu, welcome back ;p
Good link - I just thought I'd add the link to the first page of the review (of 14) in case others don't realize your link was the last page/conclusion. Makes me glad I sprung for the WD Scorpio Blue 500g for $89 when I did. It's been a solid performer all around, and a good alternative for those who aren't really stuck on the "7200 rpm" specs being a must-have.It performs slightly better than 7200.4 while consuming less power and making less noise. Review.
All I can say is that I'm happy I got one of the newer drives from Newegg. This thing rocks!
I installed the drive back in Feb, and it has been running fine for the most part, but it still seems slow in many areas. I've x-benched it occasionally, but never with any precision until recently, and I keep getting terrible x-bench scores. I'm on a MBP SR 2.2, 4GB, 70GB free on the disk, and these are the results that I'm still getting consistently with a clean testing environment.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so what could be a possible remedy?
TIA
I installed the drive back in Feb, and it has been running fine for the most part, but it still seems slow in many areas. I've x-benched it occasionally, but never with any precision until recently, and I keep getting terrible x-bench scores. I'm on a MBP SR 2.2, 4GB, 70GB free on the disk, and these are the results that I'm still getting consistently with a clean testing environment.
Has anyone else experienced this and if so what could be a possible remedy?
TIA
maybe your drive ist just nearly full?
You are also limited by the SATA 1.5 bus speed....
perhaps you should make an error sector scan. when there are too many errors you should send the drive to seagate for rma
The diference is the xbench version.![]()
Another disk test but with v1.1.2:
RK normally means retail kit which probably means it comes in a pretty box with perhaps some extra stuff such as cables, manuals, screws etc which you won't need, and a higher price tag. You should only need the bare drive for the swap, but it doesn't do any harm to have the extra stuff you won't use, except it might cost more. The bare drive is just that - a disk drive in a cardboard box, which is sufficient because when you swap it, you use the same cables and screws the old one was using.What is the difference between the ST9500420AS that everyone is discussing here and the ST905003N3A1AS-RK version that Best Buy is selling? I really want to pick up one of these this morning, but I can't figure out which to buy. Thanks!