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not that this will make much of a difference to anyone now ,


i have seem to have made a fix for the g84 issue , i used double sided tape on the gpu and cut it out around the gpu and when sandwiched between the heatsink and chip puts pressure on it stopping the bga from unsoldering.

i had to reflow every day because the gpu would come undone , i have been running for 2 weeks now with no issues.

i can post pictures for anyone interested.

Just control the system temperatures with the likes of UltraFan or SMC Fan Control, try to keep it below 70C on the GPU when possible I have an Early 2008 15" Penryn 2.4 MBP with well over 30K hours uptime and no indication of GPU failure. It`s extreme temperature and rapid fluctuations that kill these GPU`s prematurely due to the manufacturing issue, keeping the temperature stable ail go a long way to help longevity.
 
My "in the oven" repair had worked up until last week when the 8600 died again.
That's 9 months of usage, with quite a bit of Diablo 3 played on it... :D

Obviously, the motherboard had to take a trip back to the oven.
Back up and running again. :D

Still feel no need to upgrade this machine, core2, 4gb, ssd and graphics that can just about cope with games still. For a laptop, it does the job. :)
 
I agree. The only killer feature is the retina display. Still going strong early 2008 MBP.
 
Just an update report. 2008 MBP, 8600M GT GPU.

On my second logic board here, first one failed with the 8600M GT chip problem 18 months in. Had it replaced and now on 4 years and 6 months since buying the machine. (~ 3years with the replacement GPU).

Not sure how long it will last before I lose this second one, but so far the replacement chip seems to be doing a lot better. This is despite everyone saying that no changes were made at all to the supposed 'rev 2' GPU.

I guess it really is just a lottery. Fingers crossed I can get 5 years out of this MBP. For me that is a reasonable upgrade cycle, not 3 years which many seem to subscribe to. I have numerous foreign trips to pay for too! ;)
 
I used to own this mbp. Got rid of it cause I was nervous about the potential failure. Could have sworn Apple replaced these with current models a little while ago. I even got a notification about it.
 
I own a mid 2007 (Santa Rosa) MBP. The logic board was replaced in 2008. No problems since – and it's my main computer, which I use daily.
 
Here's my experience.

I noticed the PCI width was getting dangerously low (x1) this year so in July (a couple of months before the 4 year deadline!) I took it to an apple reseller and he diagnosed the nvidia chip problem. A few days later I got the macbook pro back repaired for free. The technician assured me that the revised chip would not fail. So far so good.

It seems to me that my chip went bad around the time OSX Lion came out. My first assumption was that Lion was taxing the GPU more than Snow Leopard and this extra strain caused the PCI width to contract to x1 in about a year's time.

But I've also been using the macbook pro on AC mostly without the battery since Lion, and I've just found out that removing the battery causes the system to work at at most 50% of its potential. (The benchmarks I ran confirm this both for CPU and GPU.) So it may very well be that the lack of high heat (which the macbook was previously subjected to) caused the GPU to slowly but surely dwindle down. (I also turn off my computer every night, ever since my first Mac Plus in '86.) This confirms the "baking" theory and also a post I read saying that running the macbook hot with the air vents shut can revive the GPU.

Since baking only offers a temporary fix, I think I'll let this card run mostly on AC, and also leave it on SL (until I'm forced to upgrade... and then I can make my own fusion drive!).

I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else also ran their book on AC without the battery, and if they feel Lion/ML had an effect.
 
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else also ran their book on AC without the battery, and if they feel Lion/ML had an effect.
Software should never cause a hardware failure. Additionally, we're talking operating systems, not video games - even though OS X offloads some functions to the GPU, it's not really GPU-intensive.

Heat is known to kill electronics, but the other thing to be aware of is that the major strain for electronics is power cycles. A system left running continuously will last longer than a system that is put through many power cycles each day (power cycling isn't limited to shutting the system down; suspending, or putting the system to "sleep" is also cycling the power).

When it comes to the 8600M GT, though, there's no one thing that causes the chip to fail. It's a flawed design. If I remember right, the replacements have a modification to some of the materials that were used, but the design is unchanged and still flawed. Apple replaced my board when the PCI lanes were also reporting x1 instead of x16. It's been about six months since then and things are fine so far... hopefully we'll get a few more years of use out of it.
 
I have been following this thread for a long time after my own nVidia chip was replaced 2 years ago on my late 2007 MBP. So far, no problems ( I am not a gamer), but I am not optimistic that it won't fail again at some point. I had to fight for my free replacement, and was actually accused by an Apple technician on the phone that I was "probably just trying to get something for nothing". Needless to say, after a phone conversation with his supervisor, he was supposedly reprimanded, and the replacement was authorized.

My question now relates to the battery. I am currently running my 17" SL MacBookPro on AC without a battery installed after I have had 2 batteries actually "pop" and swell after rarely being used. I almost exclusively used my laptop on AC, as I work at home. These batteries are expensive, and I am reluctant to replace it just to have the same thing happen again. Curiously, both batteries failed very shortly after I actually ran the laptop on battery power.

Is there any danger in not replacing the battery? I have not noticed any slow down in performance. Has anyone heard of or had any experience with http://www.laptopbatterydepot.com/laptop-batteries/mac-mac-apple-macbook-pro-17-inch? Their prices are about half of Apple's, and they offer high capacity battery replacements. Opinions?

Also, how do I check the PCI? What, if anything should I be looking for when I do?

Thanks for all the great support and helpful comments on this forum!
 
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Mxm

MXM could have saved us all, but apple did the usual "no you can't upgrade" thing and screwed us.
 
Since its been official that all 8600m GT cards are defective that we can only prolong the gpu failing..

Ok so this makes me feel like I've just gotten kicked in the crotch for the 2nd time. So this means the 3 year apple care I bought might be a lottery pick.

For the people who hardly ever games and reaches a low temperature of their gpu cards would take much longer for the gpu to die and what if your gpu dies a year after the 3 year warranty~

This has ruined my day, no week, no month.. no year~!!:mad:
I have that model and I am typing this on it now, I also play cod 4 on it ALOT and the card is still running super fast.
 
My question now relates to the battery. I am currently running my 17" SL MacBookPro on AC without a battery installed after I have had 2 batteries actually "pop" and swell after rarely being used. I almost exclusively used my laptop on AC, as I work at home. These batteries are expensive, and I am reluctant to replace it just to have the same thing happen again. Curiously, both batteries failed very shortly after I actually ran the laptop on battery power.

Is there any danger in not replacing the battery?
There was actually a known problem with some 2007 models of MacBook Pro, although I can't remember the exact time frame... I had a model from 2007 (this was before they started with the "late/mid/early" designations, and the graphics card was an ATI Radeon x1600), and had the battery replaced twice for free due to swelling and early loss of charge capacity. They didn't check my AppleCare support status either time. That was a few years ago, though; for all I know the policy is no longer in effect, and most of the Apple Store geniuses probably wouldn't be familiar with it either.

To answer your question, there isn't an issue with running the computer without a battery.

I have not noticed any slow down in performance. Has anyone heard of or had any experience with http://www.laptopbatterydepot.com/laptop-batteries/mac-mac-apple-macbook-pro-17-inch? Their prices are about half of Apple's, and they offer high capacity battery replacements. Opinions?
A friend of mine bought a third-party battery replacement, although I don't know what company it came from. He has issues with the battery's status occasionally not being recognized, which also messes with the charging. If you're not using the computer as a portable and don't need a battery, save your money and just work without a battery. If you really need a battery then a third-party supplier is better than nothing, but you're taking a risk.

Also, how do I check the PCI? What, if anything should I be looking for when I do?
Go to the Apple, select "About this Mac" and then click on "More info" at the bottom. If you're already in System Profiler, then great; on OS X 10.8 (and if I remember right, 10.7) a different screen comes up, and you'll need to click "System Report" to get there.

Within the System Report, click on "Graphics/Displays" and look at the PCI Lane Width. According to what others have said, it should be x16; if it's anything less than that (like x1) then it may indicate that your card is on its way out.
 
Screwed? Not in my opinion. My 8600m video card has fried my logic board a couple of times- both times outside of the AppleCare warranty- and both times Apple fixed it. If Apple determines that it's the video card's fault, they'll replace it. Works for me! I'm very thankful for that.
 
Not to brag, but my Early 2008 MacBook Pro is still going strong in this area, although the extensive usage his dwindled in more recent years due to having an iPad. The only issues I had were cosmetic (aluminum breaking down due to pitting), splotches in the actual liquid crystals, and the battery quickly losing capacity about a year into ownership. The first two were repaired under warranty (noticeable in the first couple of months), while the battery was a simple swap.

At this point, I'm going to keep using my computer, backing it up with Time Machine, but after almost five years of use, I'd probably take the hit and replace it. It's still quite capable for what I do, and would be a shame to have to spend more money, but I know the newer Macs can run circles around its somewhat aging Core 2 Duo.

I do find it funny that this computer, which I had been cautious with since the issue came to light, has been one of my most reliable and long-lasting Macs (the two prior Macs I had bought new were in use for about 3 years each until they were too slow/incapable for daily use).

That being said, I'm glad this thread has existed to shed some light on an issue and also compare notes with others.
 
I do find it funny that this computer, which I had been cautious with since the issue came to light, has been one of my most reliable and long-lasting Macs (the two prior Macs I had bought new were in use for about 3 years each until they were too slow/incapable for daily use).

My 2008 MBP is still alive and running, albeit after one GPU replacement.

It's crazy that your Macs became too slow for daily use so quickly. My MBP is much slower than it used to be and I once thought that this was just a Windows problem (this is my first mac), but it clearly isn't.

Why do they slow down so much and how can we get them running faster again?
 
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It's crazy that you Macs became too slow for daily use so quickly. My MBP is much slower than it used to be and I once thought that this was just a Windows problem (this is my first mac), but it clearly isn't.

Why do they slow down so much and how can we get them running faster again?

In the case of my prior machines, it was software—OS updates, using newer software, etc. If I had kept something a little more like the stock configuration, they probably would've seemed as fast as the day I opened the box. My MacBook Pro replaced a Mac mini with a G4 processor (which still gets use as a server), but was kind of crippled from the whole switch to Intel, and it replaced an iBook with a G3 processor, which just wasn't cutting it for the media creation things that I needed in 2005. Once I upgraded to the MacBook Pro, the Mac mini got a fresh install of Mac OS X Leopard and seems quite snappy for basic tasks and acting as a media server for my Apple TV.

I think it's not really code rot like on Windows, but just expectations changing and software demanding more from a computer. My iMac at work is about a year old and has a similar software configuration as my MacBook Pro, but runs circles around it, making the MacBook Pro feel slow in comparison. Throw in the almost instantaneous nature of iOS devices, and some Macs also seem a bit sluggish.

I picked up a used Power Mac G5 (Dual 2.7GHz) and threw some extra RAM in it and it is quite fast running 2007-era software, maybe even a tad faster than my work iMac for some tasks...
 
Why do they slow down so much and how can we get them running faster again?

Can be a few things: if your disk is quite full the free space may not be enough to keep the drive de-fragmented.

Disk fragmentation kills IO

Also - patches, updates, new software version sometimes need more resources.

5 years is an eternity in computer years, whether it is a Windows machine or anything else.
 
Why do they slow down so much and how can we get them running faster again?
As was mentioned previously, it's partly a usage thing. You have more software running now than you did when the computer was newer, which slows things down. Further, while the software supports your system, it's likely picked up new features designed to make use of newer and better hardware, thus slowing things down a bit.

Then there's also a change in expectations. From what I can tell, my 2008 Macbook Pro isn't much slower - if it's really slower at all - compared to when it was new. It feels that way, though, because it's not the only computer that I use or see in operation, and thus I know how much faster computers can be. That it feels slow or less responsive has more to do with my expectations and comparisons than the computer itself. (However, the inverse also works - force yourself to use a very old computer for a while, and your 2008 MBP will feel positively cutting-edge :cool: )
 
My 2.4ghz Macbook Pro bit the dust this morning, perhaps cause of the recent cold overnight lows in San Diego. I open the lid this morning like usual and instead of waking from sleep the light in the front was faint. No display. Never had a replacement, original since Sept 2008 when I bought I think.

I saw that the repair program ended December 7, 2012. What should I do? I have other computers so it's nothing critical. Still, I hate seeing that this laptop only last 4 years when my 13 year old Dell Inspiron 8000 still boots and works fine.
 
Sell it for parts. It's not worth putting money into it as it's likely to fail again.

Or do the oven trick. I did it two years ago and it did well until recently -- going to disassemble it and put it in the oven this weekend.
 
Can be a few things: if your disk is quite full the free space may not be enough to keep the drive de-fragmented.

Disk fragmentation kills IO

Also - patches, updates, new software version sometimes need more resources.

5 years is an eternity in computer years, whether it is a Windows machine or anything else.

As was mentioned previously, it's partly a usage thing. You have more software running now than you did when the computer was newer, which slows things down. Further, while the software supports your system, it's likely picked up new features designed to make use of newer and better hardware, thus slowing things down a bit.

Then there's also a change in expectations. From what I can tell, my 2008 Macbook Pro isn't much slower - if it's really slower at all - compared to when it was new. It feels that way, though, because it's not the only computer that I use or see in operation, and thus I know how much faster computers can be. That it feels slow or less responsive has more to do with my expectations and comparisons than the computer itself. (However, the inverse also works - force yourself to use a very old computer for a while, and your 2008 MBP will feel positively cutting-edge :cool: )

Thanks for your thoughts, they are good points to remember. Would installing this hybrid drive speed things up?

http://storage.toshiba.eu/cms/en/hdd/hard_disk_drives/product_detail.jsp?productid=525
 
Thanks for your thoughts, they are good points to remember. Would installing this hybrid drive speed things up?

http://storage.toshiba.eu/cms/en/hdd/hard_disk_drives/product_detail.jsp?productid=525
I'm not familiar with Toshiba's hybrid drives, but I would keep away from that one and go with the Seagate Momentus XT instead. The specific reason is the rotational speed: the Toshiba is running at 5,400 RPM (the same as your stock hard drive) while the Momentus XT line runs at 7,200 RPM. That alone makes a big difference.

I'm using a 500 GB Momentus XT. I felt the speed difference even before the flash memory came into effect. The flash memory just makes repeated tasks even faster.

A faster drive will make your general computing tasks feel more responsive. Opening programs, navigating files through Finder... a big one for me was searching through Spotlight, which was unbearably slow on the stock 5400 RPM drive and is now worth something with my Momentus XT. A faster hard drive won't help with all tasks, though. Video encoding tends to be limited by the processor, for example; photo editing can be limited by the processor and RAM. A faster hard drive wouldn't help at all, unless your system has to start accessing the swap file - but even then, you'd benefit much more from having more RAM in a case like that.
 
I've got a 2007 2.4gz with an 8600m that fried once on a trip to Vegas (overheated in my carry-on bag).

Since that time in 09 I have been running the living $#!t out of it all day every day and it is still going strong.

I do video work and it is showing its age in that area so I plan to upgrade for better graphics etc sometime this year, but honestly the thing is pretty rock solid even 6 years on.

Is there any way to check for the machine's total uptime? I'd be interested to see the number on that one :D
 
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