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NG4KC

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jan 23, 2021
29
2
[Solved]
Read this and the whole thread to see if it's your case.

I bought this iMac 17" with a non working LCD screen. Seller assured me that it worked but needed repair and so decided to sell.
After some research the iMac has indeed a 15" model motherboard and the LCD is a 17" inch model.
The inverter was fine as I could still adjust brightness via OS and it would work, but no image.

With schematics and some help :))) I found the issue.
An inductor went bad and it was not allowing the correct voltage (2V less than needed) to the LCD. Removed it works like a charm.

Bottom line:
1) LCD screen connector is the same for 15 and 17 USB 2.0 model motherboard
2) screens between those models are interchangeable (see motherboard model in thread)
3) you can check voltage without opening up the LCD by probing the pins on the motherboard
4) if you want to check continuity on the LCD cable you have to open the screen and that's not too hard but you'll break pins on the frame and you'll have to glue it back on (I used some double-side tape). It doesn't look silk smooth after, so beware before you do that.

Hope it helps to get some old G4 iMac back in shape.
If anyone knows it was solved before please add link.
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Hello!

I've been trying to repair a 17" Lamp G4, the issue is a grey screen and no image; VGA out works with an ext screen, and if no screen is connected you can actually do things a hear sounds but no image (e.g. playing a cd).
After opening and checking these are the things I discovered:

- the motherboard is actually a 15" USB 2.0 model 1Ghz (https://everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac_1.0_15_fp.html)
- lcd is a 17" model (https://everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac_1.25_17_fp.html)

At least the inverter isn't damaged. In my notes I have "Rx0-" and "RxC+" no continuity, probably broken lines or different location on mobo connector (being Apple it could be)
I have some dupont cables to connect things and try stuff. Probably extrapolated from dremeljunkie (www (dot) dremeljunkie (dot) com).

So, no wonder it doesn't work.
They guy that sold it to me said he had it working for some time and then the LCD went bad.
I believe he never got it working and had a patchwork attempt sold for a few bucks (40€/50$).

All I need is to find the pinout of the connectors on the motherboards - 15 and 17 inches - and the cable pinout of both LCD connectors.

I have looked around but couldn't find anything, even the precious dremeljunkie helped me but to an extent as I didn't complete the job.

Another user had a similar problem with a 17/20" LCD, but 20" is a whole different thing and doesn't apply here.

Before I go diehard mode on this and start from square 1, if anyone has these pinouts at hand I'd be very happy to have them and try to repair anything if it can be done.

My last notes date back to 2018, I don't remember much of what I did.


Huge thanks in advance for any help, thoughts and even two cents :)
 
Last edited:
So far after some continuity tests:

- the LCD is indeed a USB 2.0 version, everything is consistent with dremeljunkie pinout/datasheet
- the connector on the motherboard is different, as gnd and 3.3V pins do not match the LCD screen
- I suppose data + / - aren't located at same positions.

All I need is that connector pinout, motherboard is model 820-1501-A 15" version (this board is the same as the 17" version but must have a different pinout to avoid switching LCDs from a model to another - still very Apple style).

What do I need? that motherboard schematics/datasheet/pinout...
But I can't find it.

Won't you please, please help me? :)
 
I checked Voltage after turning on the machine,

- V-edid, Clock-edid and data-edid give 3.3V (3.29)
- VCC that should be 3.3V only give -0.13V

I wonder if VCC actually measures correctly if power is being drawn by the LCD, or should it be 3.3V notwhistanding?
 
Power connector readings:

orange: 0.12V (dimming?)
purple: 3.3V (?)
green: 0V not gnd (sleep-wake?)
red: 5V
black: Gnd (0V)
blue: 12V
 

After seeing this I guess that it could be done, 3.3V are there and not 5V.
Alas I lack the pinout of the motherboard connector.

So far,
the 15" LCD panel was shared across 15" G4 iMac models, as per resellers listings; 15" 700/800/1ghz.

15" I haven't yet found the specific panel model, and get a datasheet.

BTW, everything has perfect continuity. No broken wires inside the cables.
 
Final thought:

this LCD is a 17" not meant for a 15" motherboard, thus unless something pops up telling otherwise I have to consider this a failed attempt from the seller to install a 17" as an upgrade/replacement.

The LCD plug is compatible with the one on the motherboard, but pinout could be different.

Removing the arm is maybe "mini style" and less of a punch in the eye, I'm gonna tackle that at a later time as it requires lots of unscrewing...
 
Here is the Q26C schematics, or here is the Q26B. Both 820-1501.
Q26B - iMac G4 (15-inch USB 2.0)
Q26C - iMac G4 (17-inch USB 2.0)

The power connector seems to be on sheet 52. The LCD connector seems to be on sheet 26.

Edit: According to your datasheet, the panel has a 30 pin connection. The Apple schematics only shows a 21pin connector. Something isn't right here.
 
Last edited:
Here is the schematics.
The power connector seems to be on sheet 52. The LCD connector seems to be on sheet 26.

Edit: According to your datasheet, the panel has a 30 pin connection. The Apple schematics only shows a 21pin connector. Something isn't right here.
Thanks, this is really appreciated!!!

The plug to the screen board (located behind the lcd panel) has 30 pins (flat connector) but only 24 are connected (probably the panel being used in many screens has more commands, like direct light/contrast vert/hor positioning... my wild guess).
4 contacts are shield to ground, another 3 are specific gnd connection to a some IC I guess (really guessing - apple leaves too much guessing :)) as they should regulate dimming, suspend and need a controlled "to ground".

The number of contacts is correct on both sides.

I have to check the pinout according to this datasheet.

Don't you have the 15" version as well? I could compare the two connectors, 15 and 17.
 
I believe there is also a difference between the power supplies of the 15 and 17 inch iMac G4 models. They have different nr of pins to the motherboard.
 
La
See edited post.
I'll check everything later but thanks a lot!
This will solve things for sure.

I believe there is also a difference between the power supplies of the 15 and 17 inch iMac G4 models. They have different nr of pins to the motherboard.
Thanks!
Do you think it could be a problem?
I don't have much knowledge on the subject and any comment, explanation is more than welcome.
One thing is that PSU is rated 160W for both 15 and 17 usb 2 models, 20 has 190.
You know, tech specs aren't always correct, maybe Amps too?
 
It is probably not the total power, but the different leads that go to the motherboard. The PSU of the 17 inch iMac (see picture below) has 16 pins whereas the 15 inch has a smaller connector (14 pins I believe). This could very well be the extra wires that need to go from the motherboard to the flatpanel. Just a thought.
IMG_1289.JPG
 

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Hi Wouter3!
I've checked and the psu plug has the same number of pins.
Plus the 2 pin plug.
But I can't rule out the power issue.

I've opened both schematics and to me they have the same build for the video connection. It even checks out with my pinout (dremeljunkie's).
Connections are thus the same.
LCD is detected by the system and the correct resolution is set as default (1440x900).
If brightness is moved up or down the screen does get brighter or dimmer.

I've opened the LCD plug on the motheboard side and checked voltages,
at page 26 of both schematics, pins 1,2 and 21 should be @3.3v? I get 1 to 1.35V. INT_TMDS_3V on the schematics.
If I move windows around pin 19 voltage ranges from 0.1 to 3.3, but that looks like data tranfer to lcd.

At this point I think that the screen has a faulty logic board or a component on the m/b is dead, FERR-250-OHM at position L82.
 
I pulled out the out the motherboard to check this L82 smd, FERR-250-OHM (USB3foriMac thanks again for the schematics).
I have no idea of what it does and what it should give as a check.

It was located close to the wifi slot plastic holder (that can be unscrewed), and in the angle I saw melted plastic (not much but still...) and L82 was there.

I checked ohm and gave 0, tested for continuity and negative, no continuity. All other Lxx components give continuity.
Probably a dead component.

If anyone can give an answer of what I should get as a result or if test method is right, could be a blown ferr-250-ohm.

Thanks for your patience, my knowledge on electronics repair is almost zero.
 
L64, connected to pin 17 gives continuity (beeps). And it's the same component.
 
L82
 

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The L components are tiny inductors. They are for preventing current peaks. Basically used as protection components. You don't have to unsolder them, just measure when on the PCB. The resistance should be low, between 0 Ohm and 2 Ohm approximately. So if you measure open circuit, it's defect, but that's highly unlikely. These components are passive and the failure rate is low.
Higher probability of failure have C components, capacitors. The brown flat/square ones can crack, and often cause a short circuit. So if you measure a short on those, they need replacement.
The value depends on size and voltage, and is often not so critical. Just ask.
 
one way gives no signal (red on right, over l82 writing, black other side), other way around gives -160 ohms.
voltage is 2.39V, not enough for 3.3v to screen?
 
it's 3.49V before L82, 1.10V after L82, measures taken with negative on another point.
If I test V on component poles it's 2.39V

To me not enough supply to lcd.

If this component overheated could it be damaged? I can't see any more options after this.
 
Sheet n.53 of schematics, top right corner, indicates an exit V of 3, 1.10 is lower.
Unless it draws V according to needs.
I've checked PSU and I get 12V from the first 4 starting from the left, front row of the connector (4xyellow), than Gnd, next yellow has no V, no V from red. But could be getting wrong as it's very tight to measure easily.

I'm done for today.

Still thanks to everybody for the help and suggestions.
 
What is the "blob" on the edge of L82. It looks like solder that could make a shortcut.
If you cannot find the problem on the motherboard, you could try another flat panel. I have a 17 inch panel left which you could try. I'll cost only the shipping from NL to ?
 
What is the "blob" on the edge of L82. It looks like solder that could make a shortcut.
If you cannot find the problem on the motherboard, you could try another flat panel. I have a 17 inch panel left which you could try. I'll cost only the shipping from NL to ?
I think it's glue or some insulator, there's more on the IDE pins and power connector.
I'm not too sure it isn't this component giving trouble.

Are you on Vogons? There we can continue via PM
 
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