The Car Thread ... !

[hallux]

Japanese

One that maybe got overlooked was Subaru. Reasonably priced, reliable, good overall vehicles. Mine cracked 100,000 miles recently, still runs and rides like it's new. They can easily go to 250,000-300,000 if maintenance intervals are followed.

As much as I would LIKE to replace it it's just not in the cards financially and there's just no reason to replace it.

 

[MacBH928]

One that maybe got overlooked was Subaru. Reasonably priced, reliable, good overall vehicles. Mine cracked 100,000 miles recently, still runs and rides like it's new. They can easily go to 250,000-300,000 if maintenance intervals are followed.

As much as I would LIKE to replace it it's just not in the cards financially and there's just no reason to replace it.

yes, but I am not sure if the new ones are as reliable as the older ones but they are the best out there right now. Other overlooked brands are Suzuki, Mazda, Isuzu. Nissan and Mitsubishi seems to have dropped the ball.

If anything, Japanese car manufacturers proved that if companies want to produce a long lasting product for reasonable prices its very well possible but they don't want to. Stuff from the 70's-80s used to last a lifetime like refrigerators, TVs...etc.

which Subaru do you own? is it fun to drive?

 

[NT1440]

browsing the web sometimes I hear weird opinions on car reliability. For example top 5 or top 10 can include cars like Audi, Mercedes, Peugeot...etc . My understanding is that the most reliable hard working cars are the Japanese and maybe the Koreans mainly Hyundai, which my favourite car mechanic, Scotty Kilmer seems to agree to. Maybe those are paid advertisements?

Am I missing something? there are a lot of jokes about car reliability like FORD(Fix or Repair Daily). Also Europeans seem to have an odd choice, they don't favour the Japanese reliability and rather go for stuff like Skoda, Renault, Fiat, and Seat. Sure I would like to check different cars out, but if I am paying thousands surely I will go with the most reliable brand than waste my investment and time in the mechanic shop.

My 05 Volvo wagon just cracked 140K miles and is running like a champ. I’ll keep it well into the 200’s as I am planning on building a new engine for it (I have two scrapped engines that I’m going to combine), but given the lifespan of these engines I might not NEED to swap until 225+ anyway.

Some of the “longevity” of cars really comes down to whether you’re comfortable DIY for simple things.

If you like wrenching, get a Volvo 😉. If you want a car that pretty much needs an oil change and little else, go Toyota.

American engines last, the problem is the body of these things seem to rust just by looking at them funny.

 

[hallux]

which Subaru do you own? is it fun to drive?

I have a 2011 Outback. I would say it's more practical than fun considering it has the 2.5 with CVT.

 

[SactoGuy18]

I find it interesting that Subaru decided to put the 2.5-liter FB25D engine in the higher-trim Subaru Crosstrek (North American model) for MY2021 instead of the new CB18 1.8-liter turbocharged engine. Maybe Subaru wants to work out the bugs in the Japanese market before the Crosstrek switches over to this engine?

 

[44267547]

American engines last, the problem is the body of these things seem to rust just by looking at them funny.

That must be a way of pointing the finger at Mazda.😁

 

[robbieduncan]

Actually this is how I thought electric cars work, like an electric fan. electricity reaches the wheel and turns it as fast as you want, no gears or transmissions. I like the idea of the car being able to switch from FWD/RWD/4WD you don't have to choose one or the other but can have the best of everything. Is this possible with gas cars? I know 4WD can distribute power differently to each tire but I don't know if it can go fully FWD or RWD.

Teslas and other "normal" EVs don't work like that: they have a motor per axle at most. So there is at least a diff. Generally there is some sort of fixed gear train too to enable the desired speed range at an appropriate rotational speed for the motor.

In general most shipped 4WD cars cannot go fully front or real wheel drive. To do so would require diff locking in the central diff and clutches to disengage the front and rear torque shafts. Haldex systems (which have viscous couplings in the centre) can bias drive front/rear but the most extreme versions seem to max out at about 80% to one end or the other.

 

[bunnspecial]

In general most shipped 4WD cars cannot go fully front or real wheel drive. To do so would require diff locking in the central diff and clutches to disengage the front and rear torque shafts. Haldex systems (which have viscous couplings in the centre) can bias drive front/rear but the most extreme versions seem to max out at about 80% to one end or the other.

There's a reason why I'm always careful to draw a distinction between "4 Wheel Drive" and "All Wheel Drive."

A traditional 4 Wheel Drive vehicle(think Jeeps, but really any other SUV or other supposedly off-road vehicles, whether driven that way or not) driven "normally" uses the transfer case to pass power only to the rear wheels just like in a conventional rear wheel drive vehicle. Engaging 4 wheel drive engages the driveshaft going to the front wheels. Typically this also locks the differentials(usually automatically now, sometimes you have to get out and manually do it) as well as the front and rear drive shafts. This means all four wheels turn at the same speed, which is great if you're on a loose packed or slick surface(snow, ice, sand, mud, etc) since the wheels can slip around turns, but it avoids the problem of a slipped wheel spinning while the other wheel(s) don't get any power.

As a brief anecdote to that, several years ago, my mom had a Nissan Pathfinder-one of the old body-on-frame "true" SUV ones that was also a conventional four wheel drive vehicle. It had a second gear shift next to the automatic PRND shift. In normal driving, you'd leave the second stick all the way forward in the "2WD position". Pushing down and pulling it back would, IIRC, engage 4WDH and then I think 4WDL(I may have those two reversed). One day she inadvertently put it in 4WDH on a perfectly dry, grippy parking lot. She tried to drive off, only to find the wheel basically impossible to turn and the tires squeeling and scraping badly when she did manage to turn. She called my dad, who came out, saw the problem immediately, dropped it back into 2WD and drove it about 10 feet to get it to reengage. That was a good less-never put a 4WD vehicle in 4WD on pavement.

AWD, as it currently exists on most cars, is a completely different experience. Subara is big on the "full time symetric AWD" which puts(theoretically) equal power to all four wheels. The old AMC Eagles were the same. As you said, most have some bias. IIRC, the older Ford system on FWD platforms was an on-demand AWD system that was mostly FWD most of the time, but could throw about 20% of the power to the rear wheels as needed.

 

[robbieduncan]

I've only ever driven one proper AWD vehicle: an old Landrover. It only had centre diff lock, no locks on the front or rear diffs. But it did basically have 2 gear boxes. The normal one and a 2 speed high/low built into the transfer box. Was a great thing to look at as you could see each component underneath and understand what they did.

We almost had to transform it to RWD using the diff lock when we had an issue on the front shaft. Were just going to remove it and lock the diff 🙂

 

[hallux]

I've only ever driven one proper AWD vehicle

By your description - that was a proper 4wd vehicle....

 

[robbieduncan]

By your description - that was a proper 4wd vehicle....

Indeed. I used the wrong term. I think (baring quad bikes) it's the only 4wd or AWD vehicle I've ever driven. Everything else has been FWD or RWD.

 

[MacBH928]

There is an urban legend that says that Honda/Acura main selling point is that they are more fun to drive than their Japanese counterparts. Any one can confirm or debunk this myth?

 

[senseless]

There is an urban legend that says that Honda/Acura main selling point is that they are more fun to drive than their Japanese counterparts. Any one can confirm or debunk this myth?

I'd say yes when comparing Civic/Corolla or Accord/ Camry.

 

[44267547]

Stopped to look at the Avalon TRD last night. ‘As-is’, this model tops out at $39K, which includes larger brakes, sport tuned-suspension lowered over the ‘standard Avalon’, full TRD car-back exhaust (Which actually sounds decent), matte-black TRD 19” wheels (Which are actually lighter under the Camry/Standard Avalon wheels), body enhancements, ect. Visually I like the way the TRD looks paired with this red is striking.


My qualms- [#3 is the deal-breaker.]

1.) 3.5L—>301HP/8-speed, initial reviews say the responsiveness is their, but lacks the top end power. I think for this price tag, it should have more power, but would be intruding on the Lexus line.

2.) No ventilated seats, heated only.

3.) No remote start. On a $40k Avalon and no remote start? Instant fail. If it’s 10° Outside, I have zero desire to walk down my garage stairs, and manually start the car for a daily commuter.

 

[2984839]

I'm looking for ideas. I have a 2006 M3 with about 85K miles on it and it's in good shape apart from the air conditioning being inoperable. I like the car a lot.

Before I dump a lot of money into the AC--and hopefully before something terrible happens to the SMG pump or subframe--I figured I'd explore possibly replacing it. Is there anything out there around $25k or so that would be as fun or more fun that I should look at?

AWD would be useful, but not required, so I've looked at the Subaru WRX. I had a Fiat 500 Abarth that was a blast to drive, but literally fell apart (both door handles came off, electrical issues, etc). I'd still consider a 124 Spider Abarth. Ford killed off the Fiesta ST and Focus ST and RS lines, but a used one is okay. Just don't know how much fun they are vs the M3. Model year doesn't matter to me as long as I can get something in decent shape for my budget. Only no-go is an automatic transmission.

If I can't think of anything better, I'll just get the AC fixed, do a valve adjustment, and keep it. What should I look at?

 

[hallux]

‘As-is’, this model tops out at $39K,

On the Toyota site I'm seeing that the Avalon TRD at almost $43,000 to start. But, you seem to be correct that remote start is not a factory or dealer installed option.

 

[44267547]

On the Toyota site I'm seeing that the Avalon TRD at almost $43,000 to start. But, you seem to be correct that remote start is not a factory or dealer installed option.

With rebates/cash-back/dealer incentives, that model was at ~$39,000. The original MSRP is $45,000 with state tax. Just mind blowing that doesn’t have remote start for that price tag, and it’s a loss of business for Toyota, considering that I actually really like the car.

 

[senseless]

With rebates/cash-back/dealer incentives, that model was at ~$39,000. The original MSRP is $45,000 with state tax. Just mind blowing that doesn’t have remote start for that price tag, and it’s a loss of business for Toyota, considering that I actually really like the car.

Is there a dealer installed option for remote start?

 

[D.T.]

I'm looking for ideas. I have a 2006 M3 with about 85K miles on it and it's in good shape apart from the air conditioning being inoperable. I like the car a lot.

Before I dump a lot of money into the AC--and hopefully before something terrible happens to the SMG pump or subframe--I figured I'd explore possibly replacing it. Is there anything out there around $25k or so that would be as fun or more fun that I should look at?

AWD would be useful, but not required, so I've looked at the Subaru WRX. I had a Fiat 500 Abarth that was a blast to drive, but literally fell apart (both door handles came off, electrical issues, etc). I'd still consider a 124 Spider Abarth. Ford killed off the Fiesta ST and Focus ST and RS lines, but a used one is okay. Just don't know how much fun they are vs the M3. Model year doesn't matter to me as long as I can get something in decent shape for my budget. Only no-go is an automatic transmission.

If I can't think of anything better, I'll just get the AC fixed, do a valve adjustment, and keep it. What should I look at?

Love the E46, and while it's not insanely high HP, BMW straight 6s are just fantastic, just generally awesome driving dynamics.

$25K? Yeah, a Focus ST would be fun, they're super little sport hatches, easy to tune for more power, the RS is fantastic, but I think finding one for $25K might be tough (unless it was just beat to hell).

Pure fun factor, a little 2-seat roadster is always a blast, I always found Miatas just a tad too small/underpowered, but I had an S2000, which is pretty fantastic and still looks incredible modern (they really knocked it out of the park with that design) - or maybe a Z3 or Z4, you might also look around for an Z/M Coupe, the hardtop Z very cool, rare.

A Mustang GT in that price range would be pretty capable, get a Perf Pack car, there's so much aftermarket (if you're into that) performance, handling, etc. The WRX you mentioned is fun, lots of capability.

I guess one of the things would be if you wanted to really change up the whole experience, like I went from a Z06 so an S2000, talk about a change 😀

 

[D.T.]

3.) No remote start. On a $40k Avalon and no remote start? Instant fail. If it’s 10° Outside, I have zero desire to walk down my garage stairs, and manually start the car for a daily commuter.

But, you seem to be correct that remote start is not a factory or dealer installed option.

FYI, it's app based, it's right in the 2020 Avalon brochure:

Says Apple Watch, but the general overview indicates iPhone as well:

Connected Services | Toyota Owners

Unlock a world of entertainment and connectivity with Toyota's Audio Multimedia and Connected Services. Discover how Toyota is redefining the driving experience.

www.toyota.com

There may be an associated monthly access fee as well.

 

[2984839]

Love the E46, and while it's not insanely high HP, BMW straight 6s are just fantastic, just generally awesome driving dynamics.

$25K? Yeah, a Focus ST would be fun, they're super little sport hatches, easy to tune for more power, the RS is fantastic, but I think finding one for $25K might be tough (unless it was just beat to hell).

Pure fun factor, a little 2-seat roadster is always a blast, I always found Miatas just a tad too small/underpowered, but I had an S2000, which is pretty fantastic and still looks incredible modern (they really knocked it out of the park with that design) - or maybe a Z3 or Z4, you might also look around for an Z/M Coupe, the hardtop Z very cool, rare.

A Mustang GT in that price range would be pretty capable, get a Perf Pack car, there's so much aftermarket (if you're into that) performance, handling, etc. The WRX you mentioned is fun, lots of capability.

I guess one of the things would be if you wanted to really change up the whole experience, like I went from a Z06 so an S2000, talk about a change 😀

Great post, thanks for the ideas. I daily drove an NB Miata for years and it was okay, but I always felt they were a little overrated. I haven't looked too much into the newer Mustangs, but a 5.0 Coyote version is definitely doable in that price range, as are some Challenger R/T and an SRT8 or two.

There's a mint 2001 Z06 with 13K miles on it for $29K near me. Now that is tempting.

 

[MacBH928]

So I went most of my life thinking that X.XL on an engine means how much gas in liters it can handle, basically more liters burned and bigger engine. I just learned this number equals the liters of AIR sucked in by the engine. Talk about being ignorant. I know though more air means more gas too.

But what is the significance of this number? I once say a guy says he is willing to go for a lower HP engine but a 2.0L over more HP but 1.5L engine. More HP means more power, but what does more X.XL means other than higher gas burning?

 

[MacBH928]

Great post, thanks for the ideas. I daily drove an NB Miata for years and it was okay, but I always felt they were a little overrated.

How is Mazda for reliability? I always saw it as the BMW of Japanese cars in terms of reliability. I am not sure why its not as popular as Toyota and Nissan. Mazda cars always seemed very minimalist, plain, and light/flimsy .

 

[2984839]

How is Mazda for reliability? I always saw it as the BMW of Japanese cars in terms of reliability. I am not sure why its not as popular as Toyota and Nissan. Mazda cars always seemed very minimalist, plain, and light/flimsy .

I always hear Miatas are incredibly reliable, but mine was not. The soft top fell apart and the rear window fell out, which is apparently common. The speakers stopped working shortly thereafter. A valve spring failed at 50K miles leading to compression loss. Somehow it developed a leak which allowed water into the trunk where it would collect in the spare tire well. The air conditioning worked briefly, then the compressor failed.

Not sure if I just got a bad one or if people just repeat what they read about great reliability without owning one. The internet would also have you believe that Dodge Rams will simply fall to pieces immediately upon purchase, yet my 200K mile 1996 Ram was a beast and never had the slightest reliability problem. Used cars are just a crapshoot.

 

[D.T.]

Great post, thanks for the ideas. I daily drove an NB Miata for years and it was okay, but I always felt they were a little overrated. I haven't looked too much into the newer Mustangs, but a 5.0 Coyote version is definitely doable in that price range, as are some Challenger R/T and an SRT8 or two.

There's a mint 2001 Z06 with 13K miles on it for $29K near me. Now that is tempting.

Yeah, a GT would be a little more nimble, but the Chargers are a great cruiser. I had never had a Ford product before I bought my '16 GT convertible, I wanted quick, sporty, backseats, and I did cross shop an M3 cab (we had 3 other BMWs)

Then I wanted a little upgrade, cross shopped an M again, would up with my current '19 GT convertible, this and the '16 were both Perf Packages, but the '19 was available with an auto, it's the A10 (backed by a TORSEN 3.55 rear), it's got magnetic suspension, all the goodies, really a ton of fun (the few times I drive it, I've put like 3000 miles on it in about a year). Running custom 20" wheels, tune, a few other odds and ends 🙂

A C5 Z06 is an interesting option, they pretty capable, I had one nicely setup (photo below, custom rear/hood, wheels, brakes, suspension, heads/cam), I got mine through a factory delivery program, it was a pretty neat experience. The LS6 is solid stock, and a H/C away from 500HP - the interior is a touch dated, mostly the center stack, but they're pretty solid. The seats are mediocre, especially for the "track model", I put in these really killer custom seats based on Porsche GT3 frames, custom leather with exterior matching rear shells. 😎

Tracked it several, times too, including when it was new with less than 1500 miles on it, at Roebling, bone stock.