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I don't know if mine is authentic, but it looks nice. I think I read somewhere that the bad ones had blisters/bubbles in them.

Are the LED kits compatible with the output of the powerbook logic board? It would be great if you can share any details on which kit to get and/or how to wire it up. All I did was pop out the panel. The inverter is also in the lid, so it might not be major surgery to swap that out too. And I suppose you'd have to cut open the panel to get at the arc lamp.
 
I don't know if mine is authentic, but it looks nice. I think I read somewhere that the bad ones had blisters/bubbles in them.

Are the LED kits compatible with the output of the powerbook logic board? It would be great if you can share any details on which kit to get and/or how to wire it up. All I did was pop out the panel. The inverter is also in the lid, so it might not be major surgery to swap that out too. And I suppose you'd have to cut open the panel to get at the arc lamp.
Nearly all of the -100 series sold these days are counterfeit — usually -101 series re-branded as -100s.

The -101s had the problem of the digitizer being sandwiched to the polarizer with a purified pine sap, which was literally the ingredient used, and removing it chemically often, if not always caused problems with the surviving polarizer. There are discussions which detail this on a couple of ThinkPad forums.
 
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Could you elaborate on this? I would like to change to LED on this screen.

I’ve completed CCFL-to-LED conversions on XGA 1024x768 12" LCDs, like that found in most iBooks and all 12" PowerBook G4s. There are kits available on places like Aliexpress which include the LED strip and the board to drive the lighting. This is the solution I’ve used on my key lime clamshell iBook (as well as removing the antiglare film, but that’s another mod topic).

In all, I’ve done it thrice (the first two efforts were trial-and-error). Getting to the OEM CCFL tube and removing that requires a lot of patience and care not to let dirt or dust or damage to any of the frame/backing elements inside the LCD “sandwich” (this is how I damaged the first two tries, but in very different ways) — and, of course, not breaking the CCFL and releasing its mercury content.

The outcome of moving to LED is a much brighter display, but there are a couple of considerations, atop the delicate steps above.

First is finding the right LED strip kit to closely approximate the CCFL’s raw colour temperature. The kits I’ve bought, so far, have all skewed toward a cooler white, probably at or north of 6000°K, so calibrating with ColorSync has necessitated taking out almost all of the bluish casting to compensate. The cool white is not my first pick, and I’m still looking for a seller with kits having a slightly warmer LED colour temperature.

The other consideration is swapping out the inverter (that is, removing the inverter) with the supplied LED driver board. Thus far, this does work, but to brighten the display, counterintuitively, means “dimming” the brightness setting (where “CCFL-off” of 0/16 brightness is actually the brightest LED output), whilst moving the brightness slider to maximum only dims the display to maybe half the illumination of the full/brightest output. There is no actual shutting off the LED — not even when you sleep the machine, leaving the screen in a kind of “sleep-grey”.

I haven’t had the courage to, say, do the same to my 17" DLSD PowerBook, given the difficulty and cost of finding a replacement display. Then again, it is technically feasible to use an LED display and board from a late aluminium 17" MacBook Pro, but this is not something I’ve done just yet.
 
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Thats exactly the point though. The OS doesn't scale, so you don't get a "retina" appearance, you get icons and text that are nearly too small to see. Yes, there might be a few advantages if you're working in Photoshop or Illustrator, but the benefit of the extra pixels is diminished by the physical area. Now a 14" iBook at 1400x1050 might be more reasonable, but the 12" screen IMO is just too small.

You do get a higher resolution with more pixels for the same physical size. That’s the whole point.
 
This thread is worth a re-read. Especially the section predicting what component costs are going to be in 2023.
 
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