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All the iMac have a VGA output, even the first one : the CRT display is connected with a VGA output.
Internally, yes (DB-15 on the tray loaders and VGA on the slot-loaders). The external VGA connector for mirroring the display wasn't added until the 400 MHz+ models.

And you can even connect a MacBook to the internal display.
I once tried a similar project with a Macintosh Performa that has a DB-15 display connector and could never get it to display on the iMac G3 CRT.
 
Those G3 iMacs look absolutely beautiful! Sadly my computer lab experience when I was a small child consisted of beige boxes, Windows 95, and Lotus 1-2-3. :oops: Had I experienced the G3s, especially as a young, impressionable child, I have no doubt I'd have converted to Macs much earlier. Nice thread to stumble on :)
 
It works, but with a tips : the display has a "fixed" speed : 800x600 96 Hz and 1024x768 85 Hz. (http://www.journaldulapin.com/2013/12/16/utiliser-un-imac-g3-comme-ecran-pour-un-mac-moderne/ , in french)

With a mini DP to VGA on a "modern" Mac, it will not work because active VGA adapter can only use 60 Hz refresh rate. With a Mac with a real VGA controller (like my old MacBook), no problem if you use the correct definition/refresh rate.

The Apple Mini-DP will do higher refresh rates, just not at 1600x1200 and above. I had 1280x1024 working at 85Hz on my old Sony CRT.
 
Those G3 iMacs look absolutely beautiful! Sadly my computer lab experience when I was a small child consisted of beige boxes, Windows 95, and Lotus 1-2-3. :oops: Had I experienced the G3s, especially as a young, impressionable child, I have no doubt I'd have converted to Macs much earlier. Nice thread to stumble on :)

The funny thing was that it was using iMac G3s in High School(2002-2006) that made me anti-Mac for a long time.

The iMac G3s were among the last models I took an interest in, also for this reason.
 
The funny thing was that it was using iMac G3s in High School(2002-2006) that made me anti-Mac for a long time.

The iMac G3s were among the last models I took an interest in, also for this reason.

Oooh, do elaborate? Was it the OS that put you off? Were those iMacs still running OS9 or was it some early buggy version of OS X?
 
A bit off topic but a school I work with still had emacs 2 years ago for student computers, hows that for longevity!
 
A bit off topic but a school I work with still had emacs 2 years ago for student computers, hows that for longevity!

Wow! I can't imagine they'd be running like butter, though! My only PPC experience was Tiger on a G4 PowerBook 1.67GHz that I was gifted, and the difference between that and the Core Duo MacBook Pro just a year later was like night and day. The PowerBook really didn't run well. I suppose with using old hardware through modern eyes, there's always going to be that sort of experience, but the MacBook Pro still ran Snow Leopard beautifully ...

I never really experienced Apple computers in the PPC days so I can't really say with any certainty how 'good' they were. Sorry to completely hijack this thread, but any stories/tales/experiences people have of that era would be great to listen to :)
 
In all honestly, I wasn't "into" Macs enough then to know exactly what we were running.

A good many of them were "fruit colored" tray loaders, and the rest were(working on memory) early slot loaders.

The tray loaders shipped with 8.5.1 and the early slot loaders with 8.6. I pretty strongly suspect that they were still running the shipping OS. I know they weren't running OS X. By the time 10.3 and especially 10.4 came out, they were actually being replaced-one at a time-by Wintel boxes.

My dislike of them came from a couple of things. They had a bad habit of randomly powering off and not coming back on again for a few minutes(something that I now know probably came from a failing flyback or other PSU problem). Office 98 would randomly crash which-in the Classic Mac OS-means the whole computer goes down. We were never really given "free reign" to actually learn the OS, which might have given me more appreciation of them.

In addition to the above, we had the awful original iMac keyboards(which I ironically have about 20 of now) along with the hockey puck mice.

So, to sum it up, I hated the whole experience of using them. What is "charming" and "quirky" about them now was annoying and obnoxious then.

Plus, there was just the fact that I'd always known what I was doing on computers, and felt completely lost on OS 8.5(or whatever they were running).
 
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The funny thing was that it was using iMac G3s in High School(2002-2006) that made me anti-Mac for a long time.

The iMac G3s were among the last models I took an interest in, also for this reason.
My school still uses PPC macs and are finally phasing them out in the next few uears
 
A bit off topic but a school I work with still had emacs 2 years ago for student computers, hows that for longevity!

My school's digital drawing class was completely done on PM G4 AGPs from 2000 to last year. They were slightly used this year, but last year the entire class was taught on them.
 
In the worst case, I'll haul it into the lab where I have a good selection of solvents :)

I've actually generally found naptha to do a better job with sticker residue(aka petroleum ether, benzine, Coleman fuel, "light petroleum distillates", Ronsonol/Zippo lighter fuel), and it tends to be fairly plastic safe. Acetone tends to be the best solvent, but acetone and acrylic don't get along so well :) . Of course, isopropyl alcohol(rubbing alcohol) and high proof proof ethanol(denatured alcohol, or methylated spirits for those of you in the UK) tend to have good solvating properties for most adhesive residues and are also safe on acrylic.

Goo-Gone the best product ever for cleaning and removing any type of yuk!
 
Getting the stickers off shouldn't be too hard. Peel them off and if they rip, use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to get it off

The following is guaranteed to work.

Use olive oil. Apply a few drops on a clean non-abressive cloth and keep rubbing until all the adhesive material is removed. It will take only a few minutes. This will not leave a single scratch and you do not have to apply a lot of pressure. You can then apply mild dishing washing detergent and a little bit of water to another clean non-abressive cloth to wash off any of the remain olive oil.

This method works on any material other than wood. Hope this helps, albeit a little late.
 
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