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OP:

I don't know the specs of your Mac because I have "signatures" disabled.

If it's a MacBook with a replaceable drive, replace the platter-based HDD with an SSD.
After you do so, all operations will become MUCH faster.

If you want to get those apps to "load faster", that's what you have to do.

"that is all..."

That cost too much money.
 
"That cost too much money."

The last SSD I bought cost me $22. Granted, it was only 120gb, and I used up some amazon points, but still... "too much money"?

You can get a 240gb SSD in the $60 range.
Is that too much?

If you aren't willing to spend a little money, you'd better get used to the slow speeds.
Cuz...that's what you're gonna be stuck with.
 
"That cost too much money."

The last SSD I bought cost me $22. Granted, it was only 120gb, and I used up some amazon points, but still... "too much money"?

You can get a 240gb SSD in the $60 range.
Is that too much?

If you aren't willing to spend a little money, you'd better get used to the slow speeds.
Cuz...that's what you're gonna be stuck with.

I need 500GB or higher. It will cost money for the drive and for Best Buy or some place to install it.
 
I need 500GB or higher. It will cost money for the drive and for Best Buy or some place to install it.

Swapping out a HDD for an SSD on a Mid-2012 is easy. Take chscag's advice and watch the iFixit video. A Mid 2012 is still a very capable machine when outfitted with an SSD. You'll be kicking yourself once you see how fast it becomes after your upgrade.
 
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chscag is RIGHT! (in reply 29 above)
DON'T trust anyone else to do this.
Do it yourself.

It will take 15 minutes of time and a Phillips #00 driver and a TORX T-6 driver.
Most of the time is involved taking the screws out of the back cover and putting them back in.

The more involved part is getting THE CONTENTS of your drive "migrated over" from the old drive to the new.

I would just use CarbonCopyCloner (which is FREE to download and use for 30 days).
I would also buy this little gadget:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-...478&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=sabremt+usb3+to+ssd
Only $12.50 and VERY useful.

Use it to connect the SSD BEFORE you open the back to change drives.
Use Disk Utility to initialize it to Mac OS extended with journaling enabled.
Now the SSD is ready to "clone over" your stuff from the old (still internal) HDD.

When the clone is done, REBOOT the Mac.
Hold down the option key IMMEDIATELY after the startup sound, and KEEP HOLDING IT DOWN until the startup manager appears.

Select the [external] SSD with the pointer and hit return.
Do you now get a good boot to the SSD?
If you used CCC it will look EXACTLY LIKE THE INTERNAL DRIVE.
You must use "about this Mac" to see if you're really booted to the external SSD.

If it boots right up and looks good, now it's time to do the drive swap.

Once the swap is done, and the back is on, reboot the Mac -- AGAIN with the option key, and select the SSD as the NEW internal drive.
Do you get a good boot?
Fine, now open startup disk preference pane and RE-set it to be the boot drive.

Now you're done.
Use the USB3/SATA dongle/adapter to access your old drive.
Don't throw it out as long as it still runs.
You can keep it as a backup, or for extra storage.
 
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Insider program..?

Their offline installer still at 16.13...

No, it download and tried to install all day. Stopped at what I would guess to be 99%. Then the next time (after about 25 earlier attempts) it said it was up to date.

All the other Office modules are at 16.13.1, Outlook is at 16.13 and now says no updates.

I’m not part of the insider program and never have been. Perhaps the installer ignored my selection and gave me a few anyway.

Strange...
 
Insider program..?

Their offline installer still at 16.13...

The installer at the MS website is indeed still at 16.13. However, earlier in the day, when you opened an office application and clicked on updates it gave the option to update to 16.13.1 for all Office 2016 apps. That option has since been removed, and 16.13 is now listed as the latest update with no updates available. Something must have been wrong with 16.13.1.

When I update I always update via the installer app from MS's web site.

Lou
 
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The installer at the MS website is indeed still at 16.13. However, earlier in the day, when you opened an office application and clicked on updates it gave the option to update to 16.13.1 for all Office 2016 apps. That option has since been removed, and 16.13 is now listed as the latest update with no updates available. Something must have been wrong with 16.13.1.

When I update I always update via the installer app from MS's web site.

Lou

I’ll look into that. I didn’t realize there were other update methods available.

I’m guessing they pulled the update for some reason, and I slipped through the cracks. All but Outlook at least.
 
1 word: Microsoft.
(butt seriously, MS Office has lots of add-ons, which all the apps use, & check while starting, & the dozens of MS fonts,
plus, MS has TONS & TONS of security updates ALL THE TIME...
we got new Dell computers @ work, & MS/windows had 200+ security updates...

I think font loading has a lot to do with the slow startups, plus connecting online to Microsoft...
 
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^^^^But, I just downloaded all the "Install packages" and they are still 16.13 (Build 301). I am now downloading the "Update Packages" they are 16.13.1 (Build 203). The Outlook Package, however, is still Build 301, 16.13.

Lou
 
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As I was reading this thread, I fired up update.
 

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I
MS Office 2011 for Mac was lightening fast on my cMP when opening and resizing windows, MS Office 2016 for Mac is embarrassingly slow. Even after loading, moving a window is herky-jerky. I’m not sure if the issue is High Sierra or MS Office.
I have exactly the same experience.
 
My outlook updated...

Yep, I suspect the input person made a mistake with the build number. I burned every thing to a DVD and it all my Office apps updated fine to 16.13.1.

What's different is what your information window shows compared to mine:

Your's says "License: Activated" Mine says "License: Retail License" Wonder what the difference is?

Lou
 
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What's different is what your information window shows compared to mine:

Your's says "License: Activated" Mine says "License: Retail License" Wonder what the difference is?

Lou

Well, I purchased my from the University's Online Store called OnTheHub. Then I had to go to the MS website to download and activate. Other than that, I really don't know.

UPDATE:
Actually, it said that because I was on my cloned drive. I just booted to my primary SSD and checked it. It does say retail license.

I'm not sure why it doesn't show retail license on the cloned drive. It is a clone of the original after all, and it's the same size Samsung drive as the original SSD. Curious...
 
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Ah, now there's another update, still V 16.13.1. But different build number (18052304) and now there's a full install package.

Unknown.jpeg


Lou
 
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Well, I purchased my from the University's Online Store called OnTheHub. Then I had to go to the MS website to download and activate. Other than that, I really don't know.

UPDATE:
Actually, it said that because I was on my cloned drive. I just booted to my primary SSD and checked it. It does say retail license.

I'm not sure why it doesn't show retail license on the cloned drive. It is a clone of the original after all, and it's the same size Samsung drive as the original SSD. Curious...

View attachment 762852

You guys must have bought the 2016 version outright, paid a one time price. I have a subscription and I pay annually.
 

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^^^^As I have posted in other threads, neither do I. It's a business model that I do not like and will not be a part of.
 
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I use a custom domain for business. I couldn't buy it outright and use it, unless I got misled. :) Do correct me here if I am wrong.
 
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