Sidebar Sidebar
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.

Review of NLU BodyGuardz for iPhone 3G

Espo said:
You did do a very good job, I have some questions though. You cut the junctions on all sides? Did they stay down? I can see that they may get stuck on something an lift accidently.
Click to expand...

No. As I have mentioned in a follow-up post, there was no lift what so ever nor was there any lint getting under the flaps. One caution though, do not cut too deep (1/4" max) or you might have a hard time getting the cut to not overlap on itself.

Also I don't understand what you did with the plate to synthetic? Can you be please elaborate?
Click to expand...

Synthetic refers to the iron heat setting. Every iron has heat settings from synthetic (lowest) to linen (highest) for you to control the temperature.

Also you say the strip on the back is an egrip? Meaning you didn't use bodyguardz? Thanks for the help, I would really like for my bg to turn out like yours, or without bubbles and creases at all.
Click to expand...

Yes I use BodyGuardz. The egrips is applied ON TOP OF the BodyGuardz. That allows me to put the iPhone on the center console of my car without it flying off whenever I take a corner.
 
pflau said:
No. As I have mentioned in a follow-up post, there was no lift what so ever nor was there any lint getting under the flaps. One caution though, do not cut too deep (1/4" max) or you might have a hard time getting the cut to not overlap on itself.



Synthetic refers to the iron heat setting. Every iron has heat settings from synthetic (lowest) to linen (highest) for you to control the temperature.



Yes I use BodyGuardz. The egrips is applied ON TOP OF the BodyGuardz. That allows me to put the iPhone on the center console of my car without it flying off whenever I take a corner.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reponse. How did you make the slit? Would a box cutter/razor be okay? After you applied the bodyguardz with the junction slit, how long did you wait to apply the iron, & how long did you apply the iron for ? The iron didn't melt the film in any way? I'm surprised to see it sit so well.

Thanks for the help again.
 
Espo said:
Thanks for the reponse. How did you make the slit? Would a box cutter/razor be okay? After you applied the bodyguardz with the junction slit, how long did you wait to apply the iron, & how long did you apply the iron for ? The iron didn't melt the film in any way? I'm surprised to see it sit so well.

Thanks for the help again.
Click to expand...

I use a box cutter blade. But I would definitely recommand using an x-acto knife instead, and of course a small ruler with a metal edge to guide the knife.

The important thing about cutting the slit is that use only one cut. After which you can carefully lift the flap from the backing sheet to separate the cut in case you did not cut it all the way through.

You apply the iron after 24 hours when it is evident that the corner is not going to stay down. The iron does not melt the film, but it does softens and deforms it. It does sit well because the film has been deformed so it loses the tendency to lift. When you are convinced that the corner is not going to stay down press the corner down one last time, wait a little while for the corner to start to lift up again, and then you apply the iron to preceisely the spot where it starts to lift. You can actually see that one tiny spot in the picture where it was lifting. I was actually doing it when I took the picture, not afterward. You might need to do it several times because you would want to set the iron heat setting low and control the time when the sole plate presses down on the corner.
 
I don't know about you guys, but I got a poor set of film. It had bulges, indentations, cut was not "perfect." I had to make modifications by cutting small pieces out for it to fit right. Corners are still difficult to straighten out. I royally messed up on my first piece. Second piece proved to be much better, so the fact that it comes in 2 sets is great. The ugliest part of doing this is having to res-eat the corners and making them filled with contaminants or deforming it since it's so hard to get right.

Here are a few tips.

1. Totally use more solution (make ur own if you have to). Makes it much easier.

2. When peeling corners, use a tweezers. That'll minimize contaminants when re-seating the corners.

3. Cut overlapping areas (as I have needed to do so a few times) along with the bridged areas for the top and bottom small pieces for ease of applying.
 
n8236 said:
Here are a few tips.

1. Totally use more solution (make ur own if you have to). Makes it much easier.
Click to expand...

Agree. Make your own by using a drop of Johnson baby shampoo in a cup of water. You can get tiny travel size Johnson baby shampoo in drug store/super market.

2. When peeling corners, use a tweezers. That'll minimize contaminants when re-seating the corners.
Click to expand...

I disagree. Use the backing sheet wet. Slide the backing sheet underneath the corner and lift it up. The trick is to keep the corner wet while you are detaching it so dirts don't stick to it. Do it right and you have zero chance of contaminating the corner.

Also, the corner is not difficult to apply. You just need to follow these simple steps:

1. Wait for the corner to dry. Failure to do this is mistake number one. If the corner is not completely dry, it would stick in one place and not stick on another. BIG MISTAKE. As I will describe why in 2.

2. When you get the corner to stick down, do it in a circular motion. That is, imagine the corner is a quarter of a CD or a vinyl record. You stick it down one track at a time, from the inner most track to the outer most track. You need to do this to evenly distribute the tension of the skin. If you do not do it this way and you have tension concentrated in one spot, that spot is going to lift. This is impossible to do if the corner is not complete dry. And as a result whichever spot drying last would get the most tension built in and will lift.

3. Only after the corner has complete stick do you stick the flaps. You do that to make sure there is no extra materials at the corner/flap junction that would make any lift worse. Yes there will be some lift, but why make it worse.

4. Use the iron method to eliminate that little tiny lift that remains if you don't want to do what some people do which is to trim the lift with tiny scissors/nail clippers.
 
Even by re-lifting an area, one runs the risk of creating a visible "white" residue in that area regardless of contaminants.

It is highly recommended that each corner have a small incision, it will make your life 100x easier when applying. The back piece is too perfect at certain areas which makes this process difficult.

And I'm not sure if anyone else is having this issue, but there are little contaminants in the chrome. It looks like really really really small air bubbles. And I worked in a clean room, what's up with that!?

I've also found that BG isn't very good for the front because it's not truly clear. You can see little ridges and ripples at an angle. Apple sells Power Support film and I've used that on my 2G iPhone and I swear by it. :apple:
 
It is highly recommended that each corner have a small incision, it will make your life 100x easier when applying. The back piece is too perfect at certain areas which makes this process difficult.
Click to expand...

Do you mean making cuts at the junctions?
 
Also, the corner is not difficult to apply. You just need to follow these simple steps:

1. Wait for the corner to dry. Failure to do this is mistake number one. If the corner is not completely dry, it would stick in one place and not stick on another. BIG MISTAKE. As I will describe why in 2.

2. When you get the corner to stick down, do it in a circular motion. That is, imagine the corner is a quarter of a CD or a vinyl record. You stick it down one track at a time, from the inner most track to the outer most track. You need to do this to evenly distribute the tension of the skin. If you do not do it this way and you have tension concentrated in one spot, that spot is going to lift. This is impossible to do if the corner is not complete dry. And as a result whichever spot drying last would get the most tension built in and will lift.

3. Only after the corner has complete stick do you stick the flaps. You do that to make sure there is no extra materials at the corner/flap junction that would make any lift worse. Yes there will be some lift, but why make it worse.

4. Use the iron method to eliminate that little tiny lift that remains if you don't want to do what some people do which is to trim the lift with tiny scissors/nail clippers.
Click to expand...

What flaps are you revering to? Do you mean to make sure the corners are down first, then press down the sides?
 
Espo said:
What flaps are you revering to? Do you mean to make sure the corners are down first, then press down the sides?
Click to expand...

The two pieces of the skins that come together at the corner of the bezel. I refer to them as flaps. Yes I do mean to make sure the corners are down first, then press down the sides. This is to make sure there is no extra material at the corner/flap junction that would make any lift worse.
 
n8236 said:
Even by re-lifting an area, one runs the risk of creating a visible "white" residue in that area regardless of contaminants.
Click to expand...

I have re-lifted the corners many times and I never noticed any white residue. The key is always to use the clean backing sheet to lift the skin and to wash your fingers and keep the area wet with soapy water so things do not stick to the skin.
 
so I'm going to apply the back BG tonight. This is what I plan on doing. Any advice would be helpful.

1. Completely clean the table that I will be using.
2. Completely clean the back of the iPhone. I will be using the cloth that came with the phone.
3. Using a razor blade, I will make 4 1/4 in slits running horizontally ah each corner. (parrallel with tue speakers and headphone Jack/lock button)

4. I will line up the skins with the volume/mute buttons first and then the camera lens after applying the solution.
5. I will then press the corners down first and then the flaps and sides.

Then wait for it to dry, and use the iron method if the corners still rise.

Am I missing anything? Thank you for the help.
 
Espo said:
3. Using a razor blade, I will make 4 1/4 in slits running horizontally ah each corner. (parrallel with tue speakers and headphone Jack/lock button)
Click to expand...

No you do not need to slit the corner where the mute switch is, that corner, because of the mute switch, is already cut deep enough.
 
I would like to thank everyone for their help.. FInally 3rd time is a success. I made the cuts in the 3 corners, and 2 of them overlapped. I would've prefered for them not to, however for everything to sit flush with no bubbles, I will take it. If they annoy me I will snip them off...

Here are some pics. My cam sucks, so this is the best that I could do.

I just did this about 10 minutes ago, so it may not seem 100% clear, but I know that it clears up over time.

Also, this was the closest i have come without having the corners lift, and the chrome bezel is about 95% covered, which is good enough for me.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0501.JPG
    DSCN0501.JPG
    50.7 KB · Views: 158
  • DSCN0503.JPG
    DSCN0503.JPG
    56.1 KB · Views: 126
  • DSCN0505.JPG
    DSCN0505.JPG
    54.3 KB · Views: 130
  • DSCN0507.JPG
    DSCN0507.JPG
    56.1 KB · Views: 195
Someone should post up a pic of where exactly to make the slits before the skin is on the phone.
 
Yea that would be great if someone can post pics of where to make the slits ? I cant really tell in the pictures where the slits are, Its that good :)
Also on my first try i have 2 corners with a tiny bubble, if i do the iron method am i just to hold the corner of the phone on the iron ? or just touch the skin with the iron ? And can this be done 3 days after the skin is applied ?
Thanks guys, All the pics here look great.
 
It seems as if a lot of people are having trouble getting the corners to stick. I've had this exact same problem, got fed up, and emailed NLU for a refund. Their founder, Kirk, was really nice and offered to send me a new skin with a modified design to fix the corner problem. I got the replacement and did notice a slight difference in the cutout compared to the original skin I was sent. I haven't installed it yet, but when I do. I really hope it fixes the problem.

( P.S. I refuse to put a hot iron next to my precious iPhone :eek: )

If you guys are having the same problem, I suggest you email the company. They are pretty receptive and may send you a modified replacement that might just stick!
 
Well I have not had a problem applying the skins and getting the corners to stick.

Basically, what you do with the iron is put it on the lowest heat setting. Then once you feel the small, apply it on the skin on the corners. It shouldnt do anything to the find (i've done this twice). Just let the iron sit for 2-3 seconds and then press down. It doesnt damage your phone at all, just dont let it sit on the phone for a while.

Also with the cuts, I cant show you a pick because I havent reapplied my skin. Yet, just make 1/4 inch horizontal cuts on the camera corner, and the two bottom speakers. Take a razor/box cutter, and cut the skin while it is on the paper. Press down hard so you dont have to repeat the cut.

It seems as if a lot of people are having trouble getting the corners to stick. I've had this exact same problem, got fed up, and emailed NLU for a refund. Their founder, Kirk, was really nice and offered to send me a new skin with a modified design to fix the corner problem. I got the replacement and did notice a slight difference in the cutout compared to the original skin I was sent. I haven't installed it yet, but when I do. I really hope it fixes the problem.

( P.S. I refuse to put a hot iron next to my precious iPhone )

If you guys are having the same problem, I suggest you email the company. They are pretty receptive and may send you a modified replacement that might just stick!
Click to expand...

When did you call them, cuz I called about 2 weeks ago and they did not offer any redesigned skins. Can you post some pics?
 
JIGPhone said:
Their founder, Kirk, was really nice and offered to send me a new skin with a modified design to fix the corner problem. I got the replacement and did notice a slight difference in the cutout compared to the original skin I was sent. I haven't installed it yet, but when I do. I really hope it fixes the problem.
Click to expand...

It would be great if you post a picture of the new design. If they did what I hope they do there might be no need to cut the corners or use the iron.

BTW. The BG on my iPhone is still perfect - no lints caught under the skin, no corner lift. Just as good as the day after I applied it.
 
If your corners lift a little bit, just take some nail clippers and trim off the excess. It may not look perfect, but it does indeed work. I've done this on 2 of the phones, and the corners are not lifting at all or accumulating andy dust. Maybe give this a shot if you don't want to put an iron to your phone.
 
I did the nail clipper thing
Almost had a heart attack when i thought i had chipped off some of the paint with the clippers lol
Its not perfect either. Looking at it, I was thinking about getting a hole punch and puching a semi circular small hole at each corner so that the pressure doesnt build up there. You would do this before u apply it of course
 
THANK YOU ALL.

My second back skin went on flawless. I used the blow dryer to get my cornors down, let it dry for about 2 days and used the iron to get the tiny cornors that were up. AND IT WORKED. i just touched the part that was up with the iron and it stayed flat. Today the skin is perfect, i will post up some pics tonight.
Thanks for all the tips .........
 
Wow, I'm impressed with the iron solution! Seems a bit scary but maybe I'll try that one next time I put the skin on.

I used a blow dryer to keep the corners down and held them in place for a long time. But they wouldn't give up so I used a pair of scissors (small and sharp) to cut them off.

Posted a video of how I did it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opUAcOHjVzk

It worked but is not as elegant as using the iron.. :p

(sorry for the sloppy language in that video... Everytime I try to edit the text, youtube removes some random annotation... It's a bit buggy I guess..)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.
Top Bottom
Back