Anyone interested in a Hi-def (1920 x 1200) mod for PB/MBP?

[vv-tim]

Do you have a pic of the end of that red and black cable?

The red/black cable (it's actually pink) is a standard connector to the LCD inverter. It'll plug into the old inverter as well. The problem with the new inverter is the connector on the right side which appears to be a ribbon connector of sorts (it's a snap down cable that splits off from the main LCD->Logic Board connector).

The Samsung panel looks like the inverter may be small enough to fit in the MBP, and it looks like it could have the proper inverter connector on the right side, but it's hard to see as their picture is a bit blurry there.

 

[baxterbrittle]

The red/black cable (it's actually pink) is a standard connector to the LCD inverter. It'll plug into the old inverter as well. The problem with the new inverter is the connector on the right side which appears to be a ribbon connector of sorts (it's a snap down cable that splits off from the main LCD->Logic Board connector).

The Samsung panel looks like the inverter may be small enough to fit in the MBP, and it looks like it could have the proper inverter connector on the right side, but it's hard to see as their picture is a bit blurry there.

Is the LVDS cable pictured the one that came with the display or the one from your MBP? All you should need to run the display is the MBP LVDS cable connected to the socket at the top of the new panel and the inverter cable (the pink and white one) plugged into your MBP inverter board. You don't need the to use the inverter board that came with the display. I just used the standard inverter so there are two connections to the display - One for the backlight power (from inverter board) and the data cable (lvds). I had a look back at your old photo's basically you want to hook up this panel in the same way as the original panel. That connector that you speak of is most likely to be for the power to the inverter from the logic board for whatever machine it was from - totally defunct in our situation as you will use your MBP cables.

Once that is working you then need to remove the attached inverter and the little metal tabs. The best way I found - with some trial and error, is to use some wire cutters. These won't cut through them (they're really strong and the panel is quite fagile) but make an impression of where you want the tabs to be removed. Once you have done this basically you start from the end of the tab (the side) and roll the peice of metal. The metal will tear as you roll it an remove quite cleanly without a lot of force. That was one of the hardest things I had to do with this mod but once I figured that out they were quite easy to get off.

I'm sorry I haven't uploaded pics yet but will soon. My internet was down last night and has only just come back up. I have to work on something tonight but will try and get pics up tomorrow.

 

[vv-tim]

I'll give it another try tomorrow to see if I can get it working with the MBP screen inverter. I was a bit frazzled at the moment. I didn't think the MBP inverter would push the display backlight properly, but we'll see I guess.

 

[baxterbrittle]

I'll give it another try tomorrow to see if I can get it working with the MBP screen inverter. I was a bit frazzled at the moment. I didn't think the MBP inverter would push the display backlight properly, but we'll see I guess.

There is no reason it won't - not that I can see because I think the MBP display is brighter than the one your replacing it with. So the inverter should be more than capable and mine works fine and it's only a PB inverter (this display is brighter than standard PB display - pretty close to my 17" studio displays).

 

[bloodycape]

Kinda of off topic but does the camera actually work?

 

[baxterbrittle]

Kinda of off topic but does the camera actually work?

In the PowerBook? Possibly. If I could get the pinout details then maybe but otherwise don't hold your breath. Will continue to work in MBP though.

 

[RichP]

tim,
sorry you are having so many issues! I decided I didnt want to have crazy-res, so I sort of dropped the project for now.

Here is what I have learned:
The supposedly "compatible" screens from the 15.4 Inspiron are:
Samsung
Toshiba
Sharp

(I cant find the stupid PNs!)

Also, there is a page with info on converter connectors:

http://blisscomputers.net/Laptop-lcd-repair-laptop-screen-repair.htm
(my MBP had a type4)
Bliss also sells panels, and "compatible" panels.

 

[vv-tim]

tim,
sorry you are having so many issues! I decided I didnt want to have crazy-res, so I sort of dropped the project for now.

Here is what I have learned:
The supposedly "compatible" screens from the 15.4 Inspiron are:
Samsung
Toshiba
Sharp

(I cant find the stupid PNs!)

Also, there is a page with info on converter connectors:

http://blisscomputers.net/Laptop-lcd-repair-laptop-screen-repair.htm
(my MBP had a type4)
Bliss also sells panels, and "compatible" panels.

And I just had to buy an LG

 

[bloodycape]

In the PowerBook? Possibly. If I could get the pinout details then maybe but otherwise don't hold your breath. Will continue to work in MBP though.

Oh well I thought it be a cool mod in addition to the screen. Have you tried to see if the MBP 17in sceen will work?

 

[baxterbrittle]

Oh well I thought it be a cool mod in addition to the screen. Have you tried to see if the MBP 17in sceen will work?

Not 100% what you mean. Do you mean putting a 17 in a 15 or replacing the 17 in the MBP with a 17 hi def? Theoretically the 17's (PB + MBP) could be replaced with hi def screens but I have no take apart info or pictures to help verify this - sorry. If anyone has some pictures of a 17" PB or MBP screen taken apart that would really help.

 

[baxterbrittle]

And I just had to buy an LG

I can't see anything wrong with your LG panel. It uses the locking connector by the looks of it but that is the same as the connector for the MBP but with added locking clips on the side. You've plugged it in before did it fit? You think that you got picture right? Put it this way - when I started this my panel wasn't a compatible panel but then Apple introduced the 30 pin connector on it's higher res screens and the rest is history. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place but I can't seem to see any info that describes why it won't work in your machine. Just do one test where you plug the display in - using standard MBP lvds and then provide a light source (either from inverter/backlight or torch) and see if you have picture. If the display is incompatable you won't have any picture or there will be problems with the image. Also it's better to run an external monitor because your machine might try to run the panel at an incompatible resolution and it'll look like it's not working - Mine detected 1920 x 1200 and ran it at that without me changing a thing, but your panel may be different.

Just think of it - you'll be the first guy to have a high def MacBook Pro! I'm thinking of selling my quad to get a MBP 2.0GHz and then swap in my panel to it. It would be nice having a machine that can drive this display properly - I mean this works fine but I've only got a Radeon 9600 64MB in here and would love to take advantage of the higher res by being able to view hi def content.

Anyways - let me know how you get on.

 

[baxterbrittle]

Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place but I can't seem to see any info that describes why it won't work in your machine.

Sorry found out what RichP was talking about - Iverter connections. Tim - I thought you said that the inverter connection was compatible with the connection on the inverter board (MBP one)? It can be easily adapted like bliss computer say because those two cable only carry power so replaceing the connector would be pretty simple.

But as far as previous posts go it sounds like you don't need it.

 

[vv-tim]

Sorry found out what RichP was talking about - Iverter connections. Tim - I thought you said that the inverter connection was compatible with the connection on the inverter board (MBP one)? It can be easily adapted like bliss computer say because those two cable only carry power so replaceing the connector would be pretty simple.

But as far as previous posts go it sounds like you don't need it.

I'm going to try hooking the panel again tomorrow and I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[david06]

I've been following this thread and am planning to order a panel in the next day or two to put into my MBP. I'd kind of like a glossy screen - I know about the glare issues, but when the lighting is right the color looks amazing. Has anyone had any experience with www.screentekinc.com ? They have a service where they will "repolarize" a panel converting it to the glossy surface.

Also: If the MBP's video card is driving a high def screen in the laptop will it still be capable of running a high-resolution external display? Any quality difference?

 

[baxterbrittle]

I've been following this thread and am planning to order a panel in the next day or two to put into my MBP. I'd kind of like a glossy screen - I know about the glare issues, but when the lighting is right the color looks amazing. Has anyone had any experience with www.screentekinc.com ? They have a service where they will "repolarize" a panel converting it to the glossy surface.

Also: If the MBP's video card is driving a high def screen in the laptop will it still be capable of running a high-resolution external display? Any quality difference?

Is you video card a 128 or 256 in your MBP? Either way you should be able to run another 1920 x 1200 (or less) display without too much hassle - something like a 23" cinema or 24" Dell. I probably wouldn't run a 30" and this display off of the 128MB card but probably fine on the 256MB. If you imagine it's like running 2 x 23" off one video card. The more video memory the better. There won't be any loss of quality just a slow down in graphic performance. But it should be pretty good - those x1600 cards are pretty decent.

 

[Krevnik]

I don't see why you couldn't still run a 30" off the 128MB vid card after doing this. The framebuffer for a 30" display would be 16MB, 32MB if you run two framebuffers for it (front and back, flipping between them on renders). You could run two 30" panels off a 128MB card and have 64MB left over for texture memory. More since a double-buffered 1900x1200 panel consumes 16MB on its own (48MB total for the two displays).

Now... don't expect superior GAME performance while you have two displays running on a 128MB card consuming nearly half the VRAM for the framebuffer.

 

[david06]

If anyone needs to modify the CCFL connector on a panel it seems that this site sells the plugs: http://www.lcdpart.com/doc/mis.html

 

[david06]

My parts came in and I just did some exploratory Macbook Pro surgery and have some questions for baxterbrittle or anyone else.

First, some pictures of the panel I got. I think I got lucky; the inverter connection matches that of the MBP.

- What's the best way to remove all the extraneous screw brackets coming off of the top and bottom of the panel without damaging it? They were used to mount the original inverter and to mount to the Dell display assembly. There's six of them and I can't think of a particularly safe way to cut them off/remove them.

- Taking apart the MBP display assembly looks very complex... any tips/suggestions since you've gone through it to build your Frankenbook?

- What's under the "DO NOT TOUCH" white tape on an LCD? How sensitive is it really - is it a "don't touch at all" or "don't press down" ? Just wondering, basically for curiosity.

 

[RichP]

I can answer 2 of those, as I dissassembled mine to provide some of the images earlier in this thread

Dissassemble the MBP per instructions on ifixit.com to the point where the screen is removed. The screen then has a few small screws on the bottom, beyond that, CAREFULLY the plastic bezel prys apart with snaps. CAREFULLY! Keep in mind that the machine is thin aluminum, and you can potentially bend things.

Under the DO NOT TOUCH, is pretty much do not press, but probably best not to touch. Its where the countless amount of connections that address each pixel go to the panel from the controller. (or at least that is what I gathered from looking at it closely)

Best of luck with it Dave! If you are in NYC, I am close by if you need assistance. (I really wish I was doing a high-res conversion myself!)

PS. Cut your toenails!

- What's under the "DO NOT TOUCH" white tape on an LCD? How sensitive is it really - is it a "don't touch at all" or "don't press down" ? Just wondering, basically for curiosity.

 

[vv-tim]

Nice David. Let me know how the Toshiba display fairs. I still haven't found time to tear my machine apart and try the LG display again... so, I'd love to see how yours goes.

 

[david06]

I've decided to postpone this a week or so because I've seen rumors of there finally being a logic board revision to fix the CPU whine issue. I'm going to send my MBP back while it still looks like it hasn't been opened and has a valid warranty.

That leaves some time to figure out how to get these brackets off. They're welded to the main metal piece that goes around the screen.

 

[baxterbrittle]

I've decided to postpone this a week or so because I've seen rumors of there finally being a logic board revision to fix the CPU whine issue. I'm going to send my MBP back while it still looks like it hasn't been opened and has a valid warranty.

That leaves some time to figure out how to get these brackets off. They're welded to the main metal piece that goes around the screen.

Sorry I haven't been around to help. OK.. Those brackets if you look earlier in the thread I have a pretty good suggestion for removing them - but basically you crimp it with some cutters along the line in which you want to remove them. After that roll the pieces of metal along the length of the display and it should tear quite easily along the lione that you crimped - you can't cut them with cutters they are too strong but if you try the way I said they will come off without damaging the panel. If you try bending them towards the panel they will just pull and deform the rest of the panels outer trim.

Once you've done that you just need to take the machine apart and put the new panel in place of the old. Check with ifixit as already mentioned and that should be all there is to it. Be very careful with that "don't touch bit" as there are thousands of very tiny wires in there and can be broken very easily. Good luck. I may post some pics tomorrow.

http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/85.0.0.html

 

[craigatkinson]

17" G4 1.5ghz Powerbook with 128mb video card

So is the consensus that a Powerbook should be able to take a 17" WUXGA? Will it take any 17" WUXGA LCD, or are there certain models you need to look for? I'm getting a 17" Powerbook soon and would really like the extra resolution.

 

[vv-tim]

So is the consensus that a Powerbook should be able to take a 17" WUXGA? Will it take any 17" WUXGA LCD, or are there certain models you need to look for? I'm getting a 17" Powerbook soon and would really like the extra resolution.

Well, none of us have really even looked into the 17" models much. You're going to at least need a screen that uses the same backlight connector.

 

[baxterbrittle]

So is the consensus that a Powerbook should be able to take a 17" WUXGA? Will it take any 17" WUXGA LCD, or are there certain models you need to look for? I'm getting a 17" Powerbook soon and would really like the extra resolution.

Unfortunatly there is very little take apart information available for the 17" PB's (for the screen that is). If you'd like to be a sacrificial lamb we're more than happy to help out - we'd need pics of your display taken apart then we can try and help out from there. In theory there is no real reason why it won't work though.