Ok - hate to keep peppering you with questions but wanted to ask about Encoder Options.
https://forums.macrumors.com/attachments/screen-shot-2016-05-15-at-11-28-31-am-png.631376/
Should I change Profile and Level to Auto? Or keep as is.
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How To Burn Blu-Ray and Play via Apple TV 4
- Thread starter ghsDUDE
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https://forums.macrumors.com/attachments/screen-shot-2016-05-15-at-11-28-31-am-png.631376/
Should I change Profile and Level to Auto? Or keep as is.
Leave as is. H.264 level at 4.0 is all that is needed. I know a lot of people change to 4.1 but it is really not needed at all. h.264 profile can be high or main. Play around with it and see what you like.
When i'm setting up a profile in handbrake i'll queue up the same movie with different settings and do a bunch of encodes and then compare them side by side. I do this for several movies and ultimately choose the smallest file size for the ones that look indistinguishable from the original. Then I save that profile and use that.
When i'm setting up a profile in handbrake i'll queue up the same movie with different settings and do a bunch of encodes and then compare them side by side. I do this for several movies and ultimately choose the smallest file size for the ones that look indistinguishable from the original. Then I save that profile and use that.
Thanks! I was able to get the first version in Handbrake to work.
Onto the second disc and I'm going to try Forced only one more time...if this doesn't work I'll manually select the right subtitles after selecting all English.
One more questions...this has DTS or DD. Going with DD but let me know if I should do DTS.
Thanks!
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I prefer DTS however I think it gets converted to AAC for apple tv? If so it doesn't matter.
Or do DD if apple tv can do AC3.
I don't know what your second disc is but most discs don't have forced subtitles. Many just have them burned in already. Which is good. So if you don't see a forced sub file it may be because there simply aren't any.
Or do DD if apple tv can do AC3.
I don't know what your second disc is but most discs don't have forced subtitles. Many just have them burned in already. Which is good. So if you don't see a forced sub file it may be because there simply aren't any.
I cannot get these forced subs into the first Iron Man.
Should I add the subtitles from Subscene then burn into HandBrake? I've been messing with this all day and it's pretty frustrating...any other threads or videos online that you know of?
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I see on Apple TV 4 Specs it can handle up to 4.2 level...is higher supposed to be better? If so (And ATV4 supports it) would there be a reason to still go 4.0 instead of selecting 4.2?
https://support.apple.com/kb/SP724?locale=en_US
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If you can find other subs to download go for it. I'm not at home right now but I may be able to find you a guide later.
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Yes
Handbrake would convert DTS to DD5.1 for aTV. And additionally to AAC stereo.
PGS subtitles on BD are bitmaps, that aTV does not support at all. Burning them in via Handbrake means, that they will be permanently burned into the picture frames.
If you want to have switchable subs, you will need to mux text-based subs into your MP4 file. From bitmapped track Handbrake will not be able to do that.
You have 2 options - either to look for text-subs on the net, or open your MKV in Subler and let it convert those PGS subs into TXT subs. Then use the same Subler to mux the track into your movie.
PGS subtitles on BD are bitmaps, that aTV does not support at all. Burning them in via Handbrake means, that they will be permanently burned into the picture frames.
If you want to have switchable subs, you will need to mux text-based subs into your MP4 file. From bitmapped track Handbrake will not be able to do that.
You have 2 options - either to look for text-subs on the net, or open your MKV in Subler and let it convert those PGS subs into TXT subs. Then use the same Subler to mux the track into your movie.
I've come across my last problem...
When using iFlicks 2 to get the Metadata I update everything properly...when I go to play the file (with VLC) it just sits there and bounces. It says "verifying" but nothing happens.
Any ideas?
Well I got it to work...but the picture doesn't appear.
I now I have to go to Video (on the top bar) and select Video Track - English to get it to appear.
you could use mkvmerge and drop the movie in it and it will show you the order of the files within the container and you can move them around. Perhaps it wants the video file first?
I don't use VLC so can't help you there. On all my devices I use plex and on my windows desktop where I do my ripping I use MPC-HC for playback.
When my imac was functioning I believe I used a player called mplayerx.
I don't use VLC so can't help you there. On all my devices I use plex and on my windows desktop where I do my ripping I use MPC-HC for playback.
When my imac was functioning I believe I used a player called mplayerx.
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Hey!
I've been doing the process for a couple weeks and it's going great now. Quick question...whats the difference between the regular 5.1 Sound and the HD 5.1 sound?
For playing through ATV4 can it do HD sound or should I just select regular 5.1 sound? The reason I'm asking is if I can keep the higher quality file (let's say the ATV5 supports it) I should probably do the higher res version...right?
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So does it matter if I choose the HD track in MKV (see post above) since the ATV automatically makes it AAC?
aTV does not make it AAC. HandBrake does.
DTS-HD track is a lossless track with much higher bitrate, than normal DTS. Because you will convert it to lossy format, the best you can do is select max bitrate (eg 640kbps for DD5.1 track) to retain as much as possible.
I am really unsure, if you will be able to discern any difference after that conversion, if the source was DTS or DTS-HD.
PS for AAC track, I usually don't go above 256kbps. That's for iPhones anyway. On the big screen I listen to the DD5.1 surround track.
Ok thanks.
Yeah - I normally take it into Handbrake and it converts the audio down the the presets for the ATV.
So I guess my question is - does it really matter if I burn the HD or regular version from MKV since Handbrake outputs at a specific setting for the ATV (I believe 160kbps).
I believe you can change it manually under Audio tab.
I for one, have created my own presets, starting from their standard ones, tweaking a bit and saving as my custom presets.
So, for example, when converting from DVD-s, it is also important to add the deinterlacing to the mix.
PS I really doubt HB will convert to DD5.1 with 160kbps bitrate. Into AAC stereo, maybe.
Question dudes...how come it's averaging at 18-19 fps when I convert? I thought stuff was shot in 24 or 30 fps - not sure why this is in the 18-19's when I select same as source...
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It's the conversion speed, not the video playback speed. IMHO.
If it's less than the framerate of your clip, conversion takes longer than playback, if it's higher, it takes less than playback.
To get a 120min Hollywood movie (23.976fps) converted in 60 minutes, your conversion speed should be 48fps.
Because conversion goes frame-by-frame, it makes sense as unit of measurement.
That is real time encode speed on a frame by frame basis.
If there is 200,000 frames (for example) in that movie you are encoding 18 of them per second.
If you watch that FPS you see it increase and decrease depending on the complexity of compression. For example you'll see it spike during the ending credit because it's generally white text on a black background.
Ok - thanks guys! So during playback it will still play at whatever the source is (24, 29, 40, 48, 60, etc) but that 18 is just the rate it's encoding it at?
i dont know about op, but i dont have codes for bd i have bought. and movies from itunes cant be played on android or other players without removing drm protection at first. also the reason why i dont buy anything from itunes. of course that is not a problem if you only use apple devices and ever going to try anything else.