Okay, I wasn't exactly sure how the rating worked. I will go with 30. I will be installing it myself as the ceiling is easily accessible. Is this going to be more difficult than I imagine? Can I just use a staple gun to hold the insulation to the joist? Also, is it better to use rolls or batts?
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Insulating Ceiling
- Thread starter imaketouchtheme
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Okay, I wasn't exactly sure how the rating worked. I will go with 30. I will be installing it myself as the ceiling is easily accessible. Is this going to be more difficult than I imagine? Can I just use a staple gun to hold the insulation to the joist? Also, is it better to use rolls or batts?
Get rolls, don't staple it or that will ruin the R value. They should fit snug in the joists.
Unless I'm mistaken, the paper on the rolls has an unsecured area at the edge that allows for stapling to the joists without hindering R value.
You are not. Did that in my own house for a few rooms to keep them quieter. Thermal insulation also has some acoustical value.
If going with insulation batting, go with the thickest that will fit into the space but not be compressed, which then would lose it's insulative property. Then ideally cover with drywall with an understanding of the open access to the underfloor above.
Something like 12" thick: link
For a price and R value comparison compare spray foam insulation which would be installed by a contractor.
Something like 12" thick: link
For a price and R value comparison compare spray foam insulation which would be installed by a contractor.
Being that this is above a garage, I'd really consider the spray-foam route, topped off with some fire rated drywall. As others have noted, you want to provide a 100% break between the garage and the living spaces to avoid any intrusion of exhaust gasses.
The spray foam is going to be to costly. Would adding duct tape to the insulation help at all or would it be pointless?
Duct tape would mostly be pointless.
What you want to do is:
1. put in the bat insulation (as high an r value as you can get in the area without compressing it)
2. staple the flaps to the joists to hold it in place
3. cover entire area with rigid foam insulation and seal with tape (optional step but would help isolate the joists themselves)
4. cover entire area with drywall and seal the joints with a caulk/adhesive
if you do not do the foam insulation then I would suggest putting up a vapor barrier after putting the bat insulation in place.
Pretty much what I suggested in post 13 of this thread. I would actually consider the vapor barrier between the batts and foam board anyway.
I will do ANYTHING to avoid handling fiberglass insulation more then I have to! I hate that stuff. And working overhead - ugh. Get a set of overalls with a well fitting collar and some lightweight gloves. Tape you sleeves to your gloves and tighten up the collar so nothing goes down your back. Put it all in the wash and take a shower as soon as you are done.
I would still consider the closed cell spray foam. 2x the R-value per inch, they will have it done in about 2 hours, and it makes it's own vapor barrier. Yah, it will be a bit more expensive, but if you bid it out, you might be surprised. I found DIY spray foam to be more expensive then hiring a contractor.
I would still consider the closed cell spray foam. 2x the R-value per inch, they will have it done in about 2 hours, and it makes it's own vapor barrier. Yah, it will be a bit more expensive, but if you bid it out, you might be surprised. I found DIY spray foam to be more expensive then hiring a contractor.