John Deere Transaxle Replacement/Upgrade

[John Skull]

Update: 6 months later and all is well. The transaxle is running strong and there are no leaks from oil sump, PTO seal, rear axle seals, etc. (I still have the old seals in there). The extra ground speed put out by the K57R is nice to have too.
Another mod I did during the trans job was a front wheel bushings-to-bearings conversion (here's the kit for my model). On advice from Taryl I also installed cage bearings in the empty spaces between bearings along the front axles. Runs smoother I think and no more greasing.

update... another year of use and my D130 still runs like new after all the tweaks. the transaxle is still strong on my steep areas of turf. I still pull stuff with the jet sled but take care not to overload with too much weight, and as a precaution I try to take it just a little easier on hot days to avoid needless overheating of the gearbox.

 

[velocityg4]

Welp, the transaxle I replaced still works great but I've got a new problem. Can't get the mower to start at all. It just stopped while in the middle of mowing. It cranks, it's getting gas, has compression and has spark. But nothing. Not even a sputter when cranking.

I've tried replacing the plug. Pouring a little gas right into the carb. Manually working the throttle when cranking. In case it is the governor. Choke spring is functioning properly. Air filter is clean. Carburetor was replaced last summer along with the governor linkage and springs.

I'm out of ideas. I'm considering an engine replacement but don't really want to blow $900. I've thought about a new mower but one with a decent transaxle gets really pricey. So, I'll probably opt for a new engine if I can't get it to start again.

Speaking of engines. Anyone tried converting to a V-Twin? 22-25HP is pretty tempting as my grass gets super thick during the summer and bogs down and stalls out my 18HP.

 

[Glideslope]

Welp, the transaxle I replaced still works great but I've got a new problem. Can't get the mower to start at all. It just stopped while in the middle of mowing. It cranks, it's getting gas, has compression and has spark. But nothing. Not even a sputter when cranking.

I've tried replacing the plug. Pouring a little gas right into the carb. Manually working the throttle when cranking. In case it is the governor. Choke spring is functioning properly. Air filter is clean. Carburetor was replaced last summer along with the governor linkage and springs.

I'm out of ideas. I'm considering an engine replacement but don't really want to blow $900. I've thought about a new mower but one with a decent transaxle gets really pricey. So, I'll probably opt for a new engine if I can't get it to start again.

Speaking of engines. Anyone tried converting to a V-Twin? 22-25HP is pretty tempting as my grass gets super thick during the summer and bogs down and stalls out my 18HP.

Apologies, I didn't see that you had spark prior to posting. Is it a strong spark? Could be your coil. You'd see a spark but it's too weak to combust.

Do you have an active Safety Switch under your seat still? What Model JD? Happened to me back in 2016 when I purchased my X390. Was a defective switch under the seat. Halfway through first mowing just died.

Jumped the switch and it fired up. Dealer gave me a new switch. I won't run with the Seat Safety Kill switch off, but I do have the "Backup" deck disconnect bypassed.

If that isn't it I would check your main wire harness at points it's runs along the frame. Crank it over in the dark while looking for any arching near the frame. I had that once on a LX277.

 

[velocityg4]

I'll be replacing the engine. I figure it is near the hours rating for an Intek. Don't really want to throw more money on this old engine.

I've been doing research. It appears this engine uses a 9 amp alternator. I'd love to know if I can use a briggs and stratton with a 16 amp alternator or if there are wiring differences. I know higher amps output shouldn't matter. It's more a question of wiring difference.

Anyways, after doing some checking. The L118 uses the same frame as my L108. Which means it should handle a replacement engine for an L118. Allowing me to jump up to 23HP. All I should need is a muffler and exhaust pipes for an L118 for the conversion.

I'm waffling between 20HP and 23HP. The 20HP is a bit cheaper. But late in August my grass usually gets really thick and bogs down the original 18.5HP engine. I'd like to end that problem. Mowing through anything I come across.

Apologies, I didn't see that you had spark prior to posting. Is it a strong spark? Could be your coil. You'd see a spark but it's too weak to combust.

Do you have an active Safety Switch under your seat still? What Model JD? Happened to me back in 2016 when I purchased my X390. Was a defective switch under the seat. Halfway through first mowing just died.

Jumped the switch and it fired up. Dealer gave me a new switch. I won't run with the Seat Safety Kill switch off, but I do have the "Backup" deck disconnect bypassed.

If that isn't it I would check your main wire harness at points it's runs along the frame. Crank it over in the dark while looking for any arching near the frame. I had that once on a LX277.

As far as I can tell. The spark is strong. The seat safety switch works.

 

[Glideslope]

I'll be replacing the engine. I figure it is near the hours rating for an Intek. Don't really want to throw more money on this old engine.

I've been doing research. It appears this engine uses a 9 amp alternator. I'd love to know if I can use a briggs and stratton with a 16 amp alternator or if there are wiring differences. I know higher amps output shouldn't matter. It's more a question of wiring difference.

Anyways, after doing some checking. The L118 uses the same frame as my L108. Which means it should handle a replacement engine for an L118. Allowing me to jump up to 23HP. All I should need is a muffler and exhaust pipes for an L118 for the conversion.

I'm waffling between 20HP and 23HP. The 20HP is a bit cheaper. But late in August my grass usually gets really thick and bogs down the original 18.5HP engine. I'd like to end that problem. Mowing through anything I come across.


As far as I can tell. The spark is strong. The seat safety switch works.

Get the 23hp. You can never have too much power.

Shouldn't be too much additional torque on the Transaxle either. Just a refresher, what is your Transaxle? Was it OEM with the 18.5hp?

 

[velocityg4]

Get the 23hp. You can never have too much power.

Shouldn't be too much additional torque on the Transaxle either. Just a refresher, what is your Transaxle? Was it OEM with the 18.5hp?

Yes, the original is an 18.5hp Intek. Been digging around. I believe I'm going to go with a Briggs and Stratton 44n677-0011. It's a 724cc 22HP engine. Not those fake John Deere 7 220 engines which are 656cc but claim 22hp even though every Briggs and Stratton labeled 656cc I can find is 20HP.

I upgraded my transaxle to the K57R.

Everything looks right for this engine. Crank is the same size, same amperage alternator, has fuel pump and electric start. Everything I can tell about the above engine would work in an L118. Which as far as I can tell uses the same frame as the L108 (my mower). My frame also has the cutouts for the second exhaust and larger engine mount spacing.

This would be a lot easier if searching engines was easier on the Briggs and Stratton website. But they don't list every variant. Just a few key models. Rather than having to dig through their site and various small engine sellers.

I think the only other thing than the engine and exhaust I'll need is a longer throttle cable.

I'd just appreciate a sanity check before I order.

 

[Glideslope]

Yes, the original is an 18.5hp Intek. Been digging around. I believe I'm going to go with a Briggs and Stratton 44n677-0011. It's a 724cc 22HP engine. Not those fake John Deere 7 220 engines which are 656cc but claim 22hp even though every Briggs and Stratton labeled 656cc I can find is 20HP.

I upgraded my transaxle to the K57R.

Everything looks right for this engine. Crank is the same size, same amperage alternator, has fuel pump and electric start. Everything I can tell about the above engine would work in an L118. Which as far as I can tell uses the same frame as the L108 (my mower). My frame also has the cutouts for the second exhaust and larger engine mount spacing.

This would be a lot easier if searching engines was easier on the Briggs and Stratton website. But they don't list every variant. Just a few key models. Rather than having to dig through their site and various small engine sellers.

I think the only other thing than the engine and exhaust I'll need is a longer throttle cable.

I'd just appreciate a sanity check before I order.

I‘d say you’re good with the 44n677. It’s a good engine for a B&S. The K57 is robust enough for 22hp. I would diagnose you as being sane, so your good on the check.

Did you ever look for a used Kawasaki 22hp?

 

[velocityg4]

I‘d say you’re good with the 44n677. It’s a good engine for a B&S. The K57 is robust enough for 22hp. I would diagnose you as being sane, so your good on the check.

Did you ever look for a used Kawasaki 22hp?

Just in my dreams.

I know they're really good engines. But I don't know small engines well enough to buy a used one. The new ones are over double the price of the BS engine. I figure the old one lasted close to 20 years. The new one should last until this mower falls apart.

 

[Glideslope]

Just in my dreams.

I know they're really good engines. But I don't know small engines well enough to buy a used one. The new ones are over double the price of the BS engine. I figure the old one lasted close to 20 years. The new one should last until this mower falls apart.

Agreed. The Logical Choice is the 44n677.

The Kawasaki is worth the price once you get into the 300-500 Series Garden Tractors. My first Deere was in 1985. A 130 with a 9hp Kawasaki Single. Lasted a long time when we were only mowing a 100x200 homestead back in the day.

My current 2016 X390 has over 600hrs on it‘s 23hp FR691V with a 48” deck mowing a tundra of hills and valleys that takes 2hrs. It still runs like the day I brought it home.

I do flush the hydraulic system and replace the filter every 150hrs vs the recommended 250 due my hill climbs. The K58 isn‘t a K72 so I over do it.

Hope everything works out for you. 👍

p.s. Just an FYI, if you don‘t know the site “Green Tractor Talk” is the best source of information for all things Green. Allot of threads on engine swaps.

 

[velocityg4]

Agreed. The Logical Choice is the 44n677.

The Kawasaki is worth the price once you get into the 300-500 Series Garden Tractors. My first Deere was in 1985. A 130 with a 9hp Kawasaki Single. Lasted a long time when we were only mowing a 100x200 homestead back in the day.

My current 2016 X390 has over 600hrs on it‘s 23hp FR691V with a 48” deck mowing a tundra of hills and valleys that takes 2hrs. It still runs like the day I brought it home.

I do flush the hydraulic system and replace the filter every 150hrs vs the recommended 250 due my hill climbs. The K58 isn‘t a K72 so I over do it.

Hope everything works out for you. 👍

p.s. Just an FYI, if you don‘t know the site “Green Tractor Talk” is the best source of information for all things Green. Allot of threads on engine swaps.

I’ll look at those forums. I’d have liked to do a heavier transaxle. But the mods needed would have taken too long.