Hello my screen remains black I think it's the video card despite the fact that it never gave me a line on the screen. when to think about you video or motherboard.
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macOS 14 Sonoma on Unsupported Macs Thread
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OCLP v.1.4.0n, 2/11 build, macOS 14.4b2 runs as expected. 
Read the CHANGELOG! before updating OCLP. 🧐
👏
Read the CHANGELOG! before updating OCLP. 🧐👏
Shut it down. Hold-down the power button until you get a long beep.
iMac 27" Late 2012, 13,2 successfully updated to Sonoma 14.4 beta 2.
Latest OCLP 1.4.0 nightly installed pre-update and patches not reverted, so full OTA update
MBP Touch Bar 2016, 13,2 also updated successfully using above method.
Small issue with Apple ID password needing to be entered multiple times before macOS accepted it, otherwise OK.
Many Thanks to Devs again!
Latest OCLP 1.4.0 nightly installed pre-update and patches not reverted, so full OTA update
MBP Touch Bar 2016, 13,2 also updated successfully using above method.
Small issue with Apple ID password needing to be entered multiple times before macOS accepted it, otherwise OK.
Many Thanks to Devs again!
Hello to all. A question about resetting tbe NVRAM. Apple (on intel Macs) says to hold the P,R,option and command keys simultaneously during start until you hear the second chime (which is louder). Some on this forum recommend waiting till the third or even fourth chime prior to releasing the keys.
Can someone explain the difference. Thanks in advance.
Jim
Can someone explain the difference. Thanks in advance.
Jim
Or one can use the NVRAM reset within OCLP. Upon cold-boot, hit the SPACE key, index the selector to the far-right and reset from there. Best method.
Agree and I do that. But even there, I could do that reset multiple times similar to holding the four keys for that third or fourth time. My question really is, if you are going to use the 4-key method, is there an advantage to holding them for that third or fourth chime as some recommend?Or one can use the NVRAM reset within OCLP. Upon cold-boot, hit the SPACE key, index the selector to the far-right and reset from there. Best method.
Used the four-finger three gong NVRAM reset before adopting the OCLP method. YMMV
I just saw the two replies to my question about hiding the serial number. I wasn't aware of people cloning serials since I was never involved with that. As far as stealing serials, as far as I understand, you need specialized tools from Apple that only authorized service providers receive from Apple to modify the serial number on a mac's logic board.
So for me, it always just seemed the way to track a machine for warranty coverage and maybe to what apple ID it's connected with. I don't know, my machine no longer has Apple Care, so never saw any risk in just posting the full system info.
So for me, it always just seemed the way to track a machine for warranty coverage and maybe to what apple ID it's connected with. I don't know, my machine no longer has Apple Care, so never saw any risk in just posting the full system info.
Actually it wasn't so much of real Macs cloning real Macs, it was more to do with Hackintoshes cloning real Macs S/Ns to activate the iMessage App when it was first introduced by Apple.
This type of practice involved individuals trawling the internet for Mac S/Ns and using them on these machines.
This caused massive serious security issues on Apple Servers and at the time, Apple's solution to the problem was to kick the offending machines including the real Macs from most if not all Apple Services.
If an innocent machine owner was affected, they had to contact Apple and jump through a lot of Security hoops to remove the Block to be allowed back on the Servers.
Back then, the situation was a real mess, so like I said, the habit of hiding S/Ns is kind of engrained into most.
Hope my explanation helps.
Again, back to my question. Why the three or four chime (gong) versus the standard 2 chime as stated by apple?Used the four-finger three gong NVRAM reset before adopting the OCLP method. YMMV
For me, the Apple recommendation did not work on the Mini3,1 and the iMac11,2, it always took three(3) gongs, then came a B/T KB, went to OCLP method. Which method works for you? 🤷♂️
OCLP v.1.4.0n, macOS 14.4b2. Everything working very well Thanks Devs!!
Yeah I get it now. So I guess what you're saying is, me leaving my serial showing, on a real mac shouldn't be as big of a risk today as it was then, especially since this solution requires a real mac, and i don't think non apple Hackintosh support is even allowed on this thread, correct?
Correct, but some people still hide it, force of habit I guess.
My serial number? My prrrrreciioussssss.
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I'm on the boat of blacking serial # out, yeah my iMacs are all out of warranty, just 1 of those things, less is best,
also it's a "Pro Tip" from GitHub.
I have used the 3 chime version since before OSX. This reply, recommending 4 chime, from a NVRAM expert solved a problem I had: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/bootrom-macmini7-1-late-2014.2296021/
Based on the good news here about 14.4b2, I took the plunge first on my testing SSD (worked well but not too many apps) and then my normal drive. After all of the updating incl. OCLP latest/nightly, upon using things, especially Safari - YouTube wouldn't play (although Chrome would) and other sites being either very slow or not completing, I decided to run Onyx maintenance clean up. To my pleasant surprise, after it did its thing and rebooted, Safari & YouTube are getting along again. Just though to share with the group.
This was an answer to the question below:
Not an answer to what is best OCLP method or 4 chime method.
Since you doubt my expert claims, have a look at these:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/macpro5-1-bootrom-thread-144-0-0-0-0.2132317/
And this one which is a sticky thread:
https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...bootrom-upgrades-instructions-thread.2142418/