Certificate of Excellence
macrumors 68020
One of the few bits that havent really gone up in price LOL. 🙂Thanks, those Orico adapters look perfect, I have ordered a couple.
One of the few bits that havent really gone up in price LOL. 🙂Thanks, those Orico adapters look perfect, I have ordered a couple.






Looks great!Thanks to @Certificate of Excellence for the SSD adapter suggestion, they are exactly what I was looking for! Much better now the drives aren't just dangling around inside.
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I also decided to max out the RAM because why not, I think it's crazy that a 23 year old Mac can run the same amount of RAM as a current one (Macbook Neo.) A mix and match of brands, but they're all pairs and work fine.
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One question though - will the speed discrepency of one of the pairs cause any issues? (30440 vs. 30330.) It seems to be running well so far.
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The heat sink on the back of the logic board is for the U3 memory controller - that's the "Memory Controller Heatsink" value. Yours is hot but not absurdly hot. For reference, on my Quad, mine is also sitting at 64c.Thanks, that's helpful. I've also read that the heat sink on the back of the logic board is even more important to re-paste than the CPUs, anything concerning about these temps?
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That was my first thought - the voltage protection circuit is getting tripped by failing caps; when you unplug the Powermac G5, the caps then drain and reset the tripped protection circuit and the system boots. This is a guess of course, but that's one reason for that sort of behavior.Since it's been plugged in for a few days without me taking it apart, I have noticed a new quirk, it doesn't like powering on after being left plugged in. When I press the power button, the white LED on the front briefly lights up but then goes dead. Subsequent presses of the power button do nothing. If I unplug it from the mains for a couple of minutes, it usually then powers up first time.
Any ideas what might be causing this, failing power supply perhaps?
Well, I routinely see g5 psus in the 40-50$ + shipped range on eBay. IIRC the last one I bought was $40 shipped. You’d need to install it of course. If you have the know-how, you can attempt a recap of the existing psu. Truthfully, if it were me as your case got squashed, I’d look at getting a new one and make sure the shipper knows to pack extra well (send them pictures of yours so they can see what bad packaging does to the Mac as well as creating a headache for them).Yikes, I just plugged it in after a few days and there was a loud bang / flash out of the back of the G5 and it tripped the fusebox for my whole ground floor. No damage to anything else by the look of it thankfully, but I'm now worried about plugging it in again. Another sign the PSU is faulty? If so is it an economical fix/replacement, or better off buying a whole new system? Or possibly abandoning the project altogether?! 😳








It definitely is possible to drive a 4k display, you just need an active converter like the Atlona DP400:From my limited knowledge I believe the amount of pins indicate this is a dual-link cable, but wanted to check. I don't want to mess around with SwitchresX if I can help it as it didn't play nicely last time (although that could have been the power issues.) Would a DVI to MiniDP cable be a better option maybe?
I can confirm this. The DP400 is basically your only option though but rebrands exist and nobody seems to know the original exists at all to be honest.It definitely is possible to drive a 4k display, you just need an active converter like the Atlona DP400:
Atlona DP400
Driving my 4k LG display I basically have to chain G5 -> Atlona converter -> Mini-DP to DisplayPort -> Monitor. But it works!
Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for one of those. So nobody has managed to get the specified max resolution "natively" without an adapter? As the below states it should be able to do more than 1440p out of the box using the dual link output.
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