If one is available for your car, then maybe. The steps I described should take about 30-60 minutes if you have all the tools and parts.
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
The Car Mod Thread...
- Thread starter MatthewLTL
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
If one is available for your car, then maybe. The steps I described should take about 30-60 minutes if you have all the tools and parts.
DRL Relay harnesses are universal if you wire it up (atleast all the ones on eBay are)
That interior looks awesome. Good job.I don't have any good pictures of the headers/exhaust installed, but it's hard to miss that blower.
Another mod that I'm pretty happy with, I reskinned my seats last year. Ordered the leather from a company named leatherseats.com and spent a weekend taking the seats out, reskinning, and reinstalling. I also did the door card inserts (originally was all black). I think it looks pretty great.
I believe this belongs this in the car mod thread... Not going to get into an argument about semantics but you're talking about modifying a car to have it work with another manufactures key.
I suppose anything is possible- with enough time, money, and effort, but I would say most definitely not, by any practical stretch of the imagination.
Unless by some strange coincidence Ford and Chevy used the same electronics company/design/security features.
You can get a replacement fob pretty cheap for domestic brands. You might be able to buy a used one that can be reprogrammed. Depending on the technology- you may need a special (numeric key) to program the key- otherwise it's forever locked in its previous programming. That's usually on cats with more sophisticated security systems though.
I suppose anything is possible- with enough time, money, and effort, but I would say most definitely not, by any practical stretch of the imagination.
Unless by some strange coincidence Ford and Chevy used the same electronics company/design/security features.
You can get a replacement fob pretty cheap for domestic brands. You might be able to buy a used one that can be reprogrammed. Depending on the technology- you may need a special (numeric key) to program the key- otherwise it's forever locked in its previous programming. That's usually on cats with more sophisticated security systems though.
Are you sure about that Ari?
I heard you can put a Chevy sticker on a Ford key and then stick it into the key slot. It automatically programs itself to the car.
(On a serious note, that's how you program new fobs to newer BMWs. Just stick them into the slot or by the comfort access antenna. Car does the rest)
I heard you can put a Chevy sticker on a Ford key and then stick it into the key slot. It automatically programs itself to the car.
(On a serious note, that's how you program new fobs to newer BMWs. Just stick them into the slot or by the comfort access antenna. Car does the rest)
Last edited:
LumberrmanSVO is a friend of mine and I suggest you follow his suggestions. He does know what he is talking about any you should take advantage of the knowledge.
To me "temporary wiring" means clipping things together to see if the circuit works. From there on it's crimp with weatherproof connectors or solder and shrink-wrap. I just did both with an MSD ignition box under the hood of my 68 Mustang. As for grommets, they are a pain if you don't install them when you put the wiring in. My Mustang is a street/strip car and the first thing a Tech inspector told me to do was fill ALL the holes in the firewall with black RTV or something equivalent to it. It's a fire hazard.
Dale
Hey Dale!
I just spent the last two days slowly working on my Bronco. I swapped in a gear reduction starter, 3G alternator and dual Yellowtops. I upgraded the wiring as a required too.
Before it would crank at about 80 RPM and voltage would drop below 10. It idled at 13.9 volts and rarely got over 14.3 volts while driving. Voltage would sag to under 12 with just my little old MTX 400watt amp running.
Now it cranks at 200 RPM and voltage doesn't drop below 12. It idles at 14.5 volts and can easily stay over 14.2 volts with the stereo(over 2000 watts) cranked up. The Holley EFI seems MUCH happier now too!
Next projects: Electric fans and upgrade the mid bass speakers
I just spent the last two days slowly working on my Bronco. I swapped in a gear reduction starter, 3G alternator and dual Yellowtops. I upgraded the wiring as a required too.
Before it would crank at about 80 RPM and voltage would drop below 10. It idled at 13.9 volts and rarely got over 14.3 volts while driving. Voltage would sag to under 12 with just my little old MTX 400watt amp running.
Now it cranks at 200 RPM and voltage doesn't drop below 12. It idles at 14.5 volts and can easily stay over 14.2 volts with the stereo(over 2000 watts) cranked up. The Holley EFI seems MUCH happier now too!
Next projects: Electric fans and upgrade the mid bass speakers
You're better off trying to make a Ford key fob work on a Chevy... Better yet, defy physics fitting an chunky digital BMW keyfob into a conventional keyed ignition... or conceive a way of unlocking your car with the power of thought... than trying to impart any wisdom into his project.
Apparently the project was completed with speaker wire. Thoughts?
I'm no electrician, but his wiring as it is does not look like it will stand the test of time. A couple years ago I had one of my clinical rotations in the ER. One day I was talking to an EMT who was saying how some of the ambulances in their fleet are prone to all sorts of electrical problems due to the subpar wiring of the body. Bouncing around poorly city streets I imagine do no justice.
Sorry, my mistake. I wasn't aware of such witchcraft.
Last edited:
Copper doesn't like a combination of oxygen and water(or humidity), the wire wrapped around the relay post will corrode rather quickly, creating intermittent problems.
The connectors he is using are meant for a home, they won't stay in place too long, and again the copper will corrode in the connectors. Homes go over significantly less expansion joints, speed bumps and potholes than a car, so those connectors work just fine in a home. Homes also don't go through the same environmental changes inside that cars go through either. Tape is isn't a good fix either. Solder and shrink wrap, or non-insulated crimp connectors(with a proper crimper) and shrink wrap are the way to go.
He says that one wire is running through a smooth hole so a grommet isn't needed, but if you rub plastic and metal together over time, what do you think will last longer? But by the time that happens the wire will be so rotted that it won't be carrying any power anyway.
As for ambulances, I don't doubt they have issues. I haven't worked on one specifically, but I have seen lots of the work done by up fitters, and it's nothing to brag about. Low quality wire, Molex connectors(terrible) and poor grounds are typical. It's the same with RV's, conversion vans and limo's. Most aftermarket work is pretty shoddy.
The connectors he is using are meant for a home, they won't stay in place too long, and again the copper will corrode in the connectors. Homes go over significantly less expansion joints, speed bumps and potholes than a car, so those connectors work just fine in a home. Homes also don't go through the same environmental changes inside that cars go through either. Tape is isn't a good fix either. Solder and shrink wrap, or non-insulated crimp connectors(with a proper crimper) and shrink wrap are the way to go.
He says that one wire is running through a smooth hole so a grommet isn't needed, but if you rub plastic and metal together over time, what do you think will last longer? But by the time that happens the wire will be so rotted that it won't be carrying any power anyway.
As for ambulances, I don't doubt they have issues. I haven't worked on one specifically, but I have seen lots of the work done by up fitters, and it's nothing to brag about. Low quality wire, Molex connectors(terrible) and poor grounds are typical. It's the same with RV's, conversion vans and limo's. Most aftermarket work is pretty shoddy.
I became an expert on auto wiring the hard way. The float stuck in the Holly 4BBL on the 302 in my 68 Mustang and a starter spark set it on fire as it gushed out of the carb. My neighbor saved the car and probably my house by knowing how to use his fire extinguisher better than I did mine. Had to rewire the whole thing using mil spec wire. Can't recall the numbering convention used for high temps stuff. Lots of pretty colors, though!
BTW, is that the Bronco you rolled back in Washington?
Dale
This is probably overkill, but I solder EVERYTHING.
I have a model train layout that's mostly dormant now, but I seriously over-engineered everything.
I have two transformers with a theoretical 15A output each under constant load(plus about twice that for a couple of seconds, as they are just basic variable tap iron core transformers). The ground wire is 4 gauge, and I used 60A relays at a couple of places on the ground(master kill switch). All "drops" to individual tracks(which shouldn't routinely top 15A, and typical less) are a minimum 14 gauge, although there were places where I had to splice on a short piece of 16 gauge for wire management reasons and even went to 18 gauge for a few applications that I knew would be low power. All toggle switches(there are a lot) are 30A rated automotive grade. EVERYTHING is soldered with the exception of having to use screw-down posts in a few places that absolutely dictated it-and this is something that ideally shouldn't move.
BTW, I rigged up a voltmeter to a car and loaded up as much current-drawing stuff stuff on a train as I could. It was pulled with a locomotive powered by a pair of open core series wound brush type motors. These motors are somewhat notorious, and under load can pull 3-4A each. All told, I measured a load of 12A. My voltmeter fluctuated my no more than .25V around the track(voltage drop tends to be a big issue on long stretches of improperly wired track). I was very happy with that!
My first car caught fire 4 times in the few short months I owned it, the first time was the day after I bought it. I'm probably the calmest person you'll ever find around a car fire.
Yep, same Bronco. But to be fair, it never made it on the roof, the tree stopped it before it could roll! It still runs great and and seems to be unharmed from driving off that embankment, except for some cosmetics. The hardtop that was destroyed in that incident used to leak in the front corners, but the soft top I replaced it with doesn't leak a drop. I recently found a pair of NOS rear quarter panels for $50 too!
I don't know much about scale trains, but I totally geek out of wiring. Your project sounds like it was a lot of fun and well executed!
In all honesty, the most fun I had with it was in the wiring. In the building stages, I was constantly rethinking things and it got better at every iteration.
One other thing-EVERY connection to the track is soldered(a lot of people try to rely on friction-type or screw down connections) with the exception of a few places of known low current draw and where the ability to disconnect for servicing trumps the downsides. Vibration and flex can pose somewhat of an issue with direct-to-track connections, so everything on the layout(even completely static joints) is soldered with eutectic 60:37:3 tin:lead:silver solder-aka silver bearing solder-for its greater strength(this is actually what Lionel used back in the '50s and '60s at the factory for everything, as joints to things like motors WILL move). In fact, this silver solder is now what I use for everything, as I'm comfortable working with it and know it will make a good joint without the issues present in lead-free solder.
A while back, I picked up about 50lbs of acid-core 60:40 tin:lead solder at an auction for $2, and of course have never used it for electric work(all the soldering I do). In recent years, most of that has made it into my lead melting pot and then into the backstop at the gun range. It's a great way to boost the tin content in my alloy(good for both hardness and-more importantly-good mold fill-out) at what is effectively a free price to me.
Yeah, I notice fairly frequently not all their lights working- a little odd when each light is composed of multiple LEDs. I'd hope none of the wiring to the medical equipment is that flakey- especially in the life support ambulances.
I will get a LED DRL Relay harness, probably in the spring. This wiring was just my impatience to get DRLs (as i waited months before i did it anyway) If the car even had a single fuse that was ignition controlled, I would of been able to use the Fuse tap i bought. There is a cover on the fuse box, all I care about at this point is it lasting through winter. I don't drive it far enough, nor do I go through enough pot-hole filled streets (as most of the streets around me have been resurfaced this year) to even worry about it, I did remove the wire from that hole.
I have more than 5 subscribers
because i had to wait several months to get the wiring adaptors needed to wired it up, I had wire on hand, so i used it, the wire is through a relay because relays are the only things ignition controlled under the hood. The LED DRL Relay kit is $12.99 and i am strapped for cash this month since i paid off my debt for the CPU sent to my for my MDD, registration for the cars and a unexpected vet bill I also have other expenses and fall weather is here, so next month I could try to get the relay harness but it may be too damn cold to even bother
And hacking something together because you can't drop $12.99 on the right parts is better than just turning the lights on and off manually?
Looked back and found this video. What headers are those? Are they long tube, shortie or tri-y? They look easier to deal with than the Hooker Super Comps in my 68 Mustang. That's a 302 (5.0L), right?
My modified car. 1968 Mustang. Ford Racing 302 with aluminum heads from Air Flow Racing and a bunch of other speed stuff. Holley 600 DP. Full cage. Mostly a strip car but I don't have the cash for a trailer and truck so it's street legal. I built the trailer to haul stuff to the track and nap in on weekend long races. Just got it finished in time to make some test runs and put it away for the Winter. 13.06@108mph.
Dale
I don't want to state the obvious, but I agree here. I'm not quite sure I understand the impatience to do this. And because it has not been done correctly the first time, it will have to be done again.
The car has been insufficiently rewired with the improper wire and connectors. The pro's of this are DRL. The cons are- shoddy wiring job that could make the lights stop working (aka safety hazard), shoddy wiring job that could affect the fuel pump from working (aka safety hazard, reliability problem), shoddy wiring job improperly protected (fire/safety hazard, reliability problem), and most of all- all of this work was done when all that needs to achieve the same effect of DRL's is simple task of turning the headlight switch.
I understand that you (@MatthewLTL ) could not afford the relay required for this, but why go to all this trouble if you will only redo the job again to do it correctly- thus incurring an even greater cost and expenditure of time? In other words, if you can't afford to do it right, why do it at all? It's not as if this is a necessity. To each his own though.
Looked back and found this video. What headers are those? Are they long tube, shortie or tri-y? They look easier to deal with than the Hooker Super Comps in my 68 Mustang. That's a 302 (5.0L), right?
My modified car. 1968 Mustang. Ford Racing 302 with aluminum heads from Air Flow Racing and a bunch of other speed stuff. Holley 600 DP. Full cage. Mostly a strip car but I don't have the cash for a trailer and truck so it's street legal. I built the trailer to haul stuff to the track and nap in on weekend long races. Just got it finished in time to make some test runs and put it away for the Winter. 13.06@108mph.
Dale
That looks pretty nice Dale, sounds like fun to drive too!
That trailer is pretty cool too! I love camping but finding a comfortable position to sleep on the hard ground can be tough on my back. I've been lusting after teardrop trailers for a long time.
The headers are ceramic coated Bassani shorties. I did a bunch of research on headers before buying and I'm pretty happy with my choice. They fit perfectly, the hardware they came with fit perfectly as well. I followed the installation instructions to a "T" and they haven't shown any signs of leaking. The access to the spark plugs is GREAT, making plugs checks/changes a breeze. The engine bay doesn't get any hotter than it did with the factory cast iron manifolds. Even better, all the stock manifold bolts came out without fighting me, so many people break bolts trying to get them out.
When I did the header swap I had the factory style straight plug wires on it and the boots rested on a few of the header tubes. Because of the ceramic coating those plug wires lasted a few hundred miles of driving without burning up, they were still in usable condition when I replaced them with Ford Racing 9mm wires with 45º ends.
The rest of the exhaust is a Bassani stainless Y-Pipe without cat and Gibson aluminum 3" catback. The Bassani Y-Pipe is the go-to piece for the truck guys because it fits so well and flows so much better than the stock piece. Mating the Gibson and Bassani stuff wasn't so easy. The Gibson muffler had a 2.5" inlet and the Y-pipe had a bend right before the muffler. I ordered a bunch of 3"-2.5" adaptors from Amazon and luckily one of the bunch fit great. The mounting hardware for both the Bassani and Gibson fit perfectly.
I love the way it sounds, a nice mean low sound with zero drone and dead silent inside at speed.
I have more work to do under the hood today...
Also, it's a 351W.
I used to see this a LOT when I worked on cars. People don't have the time or money to do it right once, but they do have the time and money to do it twice.
Last edited: