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The Car Mod Thread...
- Thread starter MatthewLTL
- Start date
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I had a car for ten years, never bothered to fix the broken speedo. The only speeding ticket I ever got with it was for doing triple digits, so I deserved it.
I know "about" how fast certain speeds are from the tach, so can watch my speed on things like state highways(i.e. ~3000 rpms in 4th gear is about 55) or otherwise I just keep up with the traffic.
After doing some investigating, the problem-it seems-is the nylon drive gear inside the transmission. The guy who sold it to me replaced everything between the transmission and the speedometer itself. The only way to fix this is with a full transmission pull down. This is actual a fairly common problem.
I've had more than one person tell me they have "a garage full" of good used MG 4-speed transmissions, and $50-100 is the going rate for one. When the time comes to do the clutch, I might drop in a replacement transmission, or I might put in an overdrive transmission. In the mean time, I don't see the value in pulling the whole thing apart just to fix the speedometer. If I really need one, I have a GPS and/or an iPhone app.
That's pretty much the exact same situation I was in, full teardown of the transmission or replace it. Just not worth the hassle, even though transmissions were about $75 at the junkyard.
I need to get my speedo fixed, it reads slow. 134 MPH is only indicating 120 on the speedometer.
I got a bunch of new parts for my stereo. I picked up a Pro-Clip mount for my new iPhone 6S Plus, it replaces a 5S. With that I bought a Lightning extension cable, Lightning to HDMI dongle, HDMI cable, HDMI audio stripper, RG59 RCA connectors and RG59 cable. With this gear I'll be able to go digital direct from the phone to my audio processor, I'll only have one DAC in the whole audio chain.
At the moment It goes through the DAC in the phone, then and ADC and DAC in the headhunt, then the ADC and DAC in the processor. This should really simplify things.
When installing this, I'll remove the headhunt and replace it with the controller for the processor and the bass knob for the sub amp. I'll have just two knobs and four "Preset" buttons to control everything. It'll look very much like a shaft mount radio. That should also help reduce the risk of theft
Today I was doing some data gathering of the stereo when I fried one of my mids. I knew this would eventually happen. I'd been giving it about 230 watts, and not being gentle on it, for a long time. It is only rated for 50 watts. As you can see in the below pics, when I cut it open to look at the carnage, the coil was stuck in the gap and I had to pull it out, unravelling most of it. It looks like I just cooked the glue that holds the coil on, not very much wire was actually burned. With some better glue, this thing could have lived longer.
So, what to replace it with:
From left to right:
1. Stereo Integrity TM65 6.5" Midrange. These were designed for lots of low end output without sacrificing the midrange. With an XBL^2 motor and 9mm of Xmax, they deliver! Reviews are very positive. They are currently out of production. They are slightly larger than the current opening in the doors.
2. Audax PR170M0 Midrange. These were designed to be a very efficient midrange and should match up fairly well with my compression drivers. Everyone who has used them comments on how amazing they sound. However, with only .5mm of Xmax, they have no bottom end and need the help of a mid bass driver. They are significantly larger than the openings in the doors.
3. Image Dynamics IDQ8 V1. These are legendary speakers in the car audio competition scene. They can just barely bridge the gap between the compression drivers and subs, and many people have run them successfully that way. They have been out of production for about a decade. These will require quite a bit of fabrication to get in the doors.
So, the lazy part of me says to just mod the doors for option #1 and call it good until I get around to doing #3 and #2 at the same time. The other part of me says to just go ahead and do #2 and #3 and stop putting it off, I currently have the amps/processing/power to do just that. This would also allow the frequency range of each speaker to overlap with the others, making tuning much more flexible.
At the moment It goes through the DAC in the phone, then and ADC and DAC in the headhunt, then the ADC and DAC in the processor. This should really simplify things.
When installing this, I'll remove the headhunt and replace it with the controller for the processor and the bass knob for the sub amp. I'll have just two knobs and four "Preset" buttons to control everything. It'll look very much like a shaft mount radio. That should also help reduce the risk of theft
Today I was doing some data gathering of the stereo when I fried one of my mids. I knew this would eventually happen. I'd been giving it about 230 watts, and not being gentle on it, for a long time. It is only rated for 50 watts. As you can see in the below pics, when I cut it open to look at the carnage, the coil was stuck in the gap and I had to pull it out, unravelling most of it. It looks like I just cooked the glue that holds the coil on, not very much wire was actually burned. With some better glue, this thing could have lived longer.
So, what to replace it with:
From left to right:
1. Stereo Integrity TM65 6.5" Midrange. These were designed for lots of low end output without sacrificing the midrange. With an XBL^2 motor and 9mm of Xmax, they deliver! Reviews are very positive. They are currently out of production. They are slightly larger than the current opening in the doors.
2. Audax PR170M0 Midrange. These were designed to be a very efficient midrange and should match up fairly well with my compression drivers. Everyone who has used them comments on how amazing they sound. However, with only .5mm of Xmax, they have no bottom end and need the help of a mid bass driver. They are significantly larger than the openings in the doors.
3. Image Dynamics IDQ8 V1. These are legendary speakers in the car audio competition scene. They can just barely bridge the gap between the compression drivers and subs, and many people have run them successfully that way. They have been out of production for about a decade. These will require quite a bit of fabrication to get in the doors.
So, the lazy part of me says to just mod the doors for option #1 and call it good until I get around to doing #3 and #2 at the same time. The other part of me says to just go ahead and do #2 and #3 and stop putting it off, I currently have the amps/processing/power to do just that. This would also allow the frequency range of each speaker to overlap with the others, making tuning much more flexible.
Today I bought three plastic cutting boards and cut them up with a dremel to make mounting rings for the new speakers. Plastic cutting boards are great for this because they are weatherproof and very strong. The ones on the left are for the 7's and the right are for the 8's. Tomorrow I'll start fitting them to the doors and trim off the extra.
Not sure if this counts as a "mod" but I'm getting ready to junk the crappy aftermarket exhaust on my MG for a Chinese fascimile of the factory exhaust
Like I said, I'm not sure it's a "mod" since I'm taking it back to the factory specification, but here it is.
I've been applying PB blaster regularly for the last couple of weeks, so hopefully getting the old one off won't be too much trouble. I did, of course, buy all new mounting hardware.
Like I said, I'm not sure it's a "mod" since I'm taking it back to the factory specification, but here it is.
I've been applying PB blaster regularly for the last couple of weeks, so hopefully getting the old one off won't be too much trouble. I did, of course, buy all new mounting hardware.
I forgot about this thread.
I did some more audio work to my Bronco last month. I tossed my old cheap 6.5" mids in favor of a set of Audax 7" mids. These aren't your normal car mid that can play from 80-4500hz. These are true pro-style mids that can play from about 300hz up to about 1900hz. Where they really shine is their overall tone, they match the horns perfectly. I've never had speakers blend so well together with nearly zero work. Also, they are VERY efficient for a cone driver, perfect for what I'm doing.
Install pics:
I made the mounting plate out of a high density plastic cutting board. It was easier to work with than wood, will resist weather MUCH better and is stronger. Even better, it fits behind the factory door panel:
Now I can order new door panels and finish the doors.
I also went digital from my iPhone to the audio processor, eliminating the head unit. To do this I used an Apple Lightning to HDMI adaptor and Kanex Pro HDMI audio de-embedder. I used a nifty startech.com USB hub to power it. I also installed the remote for my audio processor so I can have a volume control int he dash again.
These are all the parts:
I mounted a Switchcraft pass-through USB plug in the dash so I can just use 1 cable to plug into the USB hub.
Here it is mounted in place of the factory cigarette lighter.
Here is the hub, it's great because it can run off a 12v wall wart, or 7-24vdc. It will also charge devices without needing a computer to be connected.
Here is the Lightning to HDMI adaptor zip tied to the main dash harness.
The hub and de-embedder in the passenger side of the dash. The de-embedder gets power from the hub. The audio processor and EFI are both plugged into the hub.
Here is the processor remote mounted is a custom face plate. I am purposefully going for the old shaft radio look.
Here it is from the back, mounted to the factory dash bezel. The aftermarket DIN adaptor is still in the dash and gives this panel support from the rear.
From the front, I just need to add the bass knob from the sub amp.
Here is the whole setup. The small black cable hanging behind the phone mount is a Lightning extension cable. The phone gets charged from the hub when plugged in.
I did some more audio work to my Bronco last month. I tossed my old cheap 6.5" mids in favor of a set of Audax 7" mids. These aren't your normal car mid that can play from 80-4500hz. These are true pro-style mids that can play from about 300hz up to about 1900hz. Where they really shine is their overall tone, they match the horns perfectly. I've never had speakers blend so well together with nearly zero work. Also, they are VERY efficient for a cone driver, perfect for what I'm doing.
Install pics:
I made the mounting plate out of a high density plastic cutting board. It was easier to work with than wood, will resist weather MUCH better and is stronger. Even better, it fits behind the factory door panel:
Now I can order new door panels and finish the doors.
I also went digital from my iPhone to the audio processor, eliminating the head unit. To do this I used an Apple Lightning to HDMI adaptor and Kanex Pro HDMI audio de-embedder. I used a nifty startech.com USB hub to power it. I also installed the remote for my audio processor so I can have a volume control int he dash again.
These are all the parts:
I mounted a Switchcraft pass-through USB plug in the dash so I can just use 1 cable to plug into the USB hub.
Here it is mounted in place of the factory cigarette lighter.
Here is the hub, it's great because it can run off a 12v wall wart, or 7-24vdc. It will also charge devices without needing a computer to be connected.
Here is the Lightning to HDMI adaptor zip tied to the main dash harness.
The hub and de-embedder in the passenger side of the dash. The de-embedder gets power from the hub. The audio processor and EFI are both plugged into the hub.
Here is the processor remote mounted is a custom face plate. I am purposefully going for the old shaft radio look.
Here it is from the back, mounted to the factory dash bezel. The aftermarket DIN adaptor is still in the dash and gives this panel support from the rear.
From the front, I just need to add the bass knob from the sub amp.
Here is the whole setup. The small black cable hanging behind the phone mount is a Lightning extension cable. The phone gets charged from the hub when plugged in.
I did manage today to make a good deal on a set of wire wheels. Four wheels, four knock-offs, two front hubs, and a rear axle with one hub. The tires are brand new, so I feel like I did very well for the price I paid(less than I'm getting ready to drop tomorrow on new rubber).
The wheels will probably need to be sandblasted and get a new coat of paint, but I'm anxious to really dress up the MG with a nice set of Dunlop wire wheels.
The wheels will probably need to be sandblasted and get a new coat of paint, but I'm anxious to really dress up the MG with a nice set of Dunlop wire wheels.
Nice dude! Finally. I will get you the honorary Papa G stamp of approval.
I haven't posted in awhile. Heck, I haven't been home in a LONG time. I got home last week and started spinning wrenches.
I started by replacing the factory valve covers and adding an oil catch can.
That ugly hose has to go though, there's something to be said about a simple black hose.
I decided to replace the entire chassis wiring harness with an American Autowire kit, and replace the terrible factory HVAC system with a Vintage Air system. Yesterday and today I worked on removing the dash, I'm gonna rebuild it front scratch too.
Here is how it sits tonight:
Yes, it'll get aftermarket gauges too. Holley makes some slick ones that'll integrate with the EFI nicely and make the wiring a snap.
Tomorrow I'll start building the frame for the new dash and start the wiring.
I started by replacing the factory valve covers and adding an oil catch can.
That ugly hose has to go though, there's something to be said about a simple black hose.
I decided to replace the entire chassis wiring harness with an American Autowire kit, and replace the terrible factory HVAC system with a Vintage Air system. Yesterday and today I worked on removing the dash, I'm gonna rebuild it front scratch too.
Here is how it sits tonight:
Yes, it'll get aftermarket gauges too. Holley makes some slick ones that'll integrate with the EFI nicely and make the wiring a snap.
Tomorrow I'll start building the frame for the new dash and start the wiring.
I know there is general dislike for these things, but I love the weird cars. The Cube, the Element, etc.
Car taste is subjective so dont go by what everybody else thinks. people who like this car usually think out side of the box (no pun intended) people either love the car or hate it, there is no in between. i for one, like it alot.
Nice work!
Car audio is not my "thing"(in fact my most recent foray into doing any was the total opposite...i.e. removing all the audio) but I can respect a well done and well designed project. Looks like you're doing great!
Car audio is not my "thing"(in fact my most recent foray into doing any was the total opposite...i.e. removing all the audio) but I can respect a well done and well designed project. Looks like you're doing great!
I've been into car audio for about 15 years now. I've build cars that were competitive on the SQ circuit and placed at nationals. I've also helped build a car that set a world SPL record. The SQ car was MUcH harder to build! But this is the first time that I've had both the time and money to build my own car, and try out my crazy ideas.
The other car I'd love to have, and would be a great compliment to this, is a Lotus 7 clone with zero creature comforts. Well, maybe a roof...
The other car I'd love to have, and would be a great compliment to this, is a Lotus 7 clone with zero creature comforts. Well, maybe a roof...
Anyone have a suggestion for some lights I could mount around my AC/heat/vent controls? The bulb behind it just went out and I don't want to bother getting it repaired because I'll be getting a new car in a few months. Just want something fast to get me through until then.