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Something like this?
Maybe, 360 cam, hmm. 🤔 I want a rear camera, I’ve got a convertible, I don’t wires all over, a camera on the rear window is not an option ( cause the top comes down), am going to talk to a local dash cam installer and see how much more they charge for this service. I think it would require a camera on the exterior rear of the car, unless they know something I don’t, would want to run wires hidden, I assume, a hard wire.
 
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Maybe, 360 cam, hmm. 🤔 I want a rear camera, I’ve got a convertible, I don’t wires all over, a camera on the rear window is not an option ( cause the top comes down), am going to talk to a local dash cam installer and see how much more they charge for this service. I think it would require a camera on the exterior rear of the car, unless they know something I don’t, would want to run wires hidden, I assume, a hard wire.
So I paid someone to install my dashcam in my Golf. But there was already one installed in my BMW. Hiding the wires doesn’t look all that difficult. Maybe ask on a forum for your specific car?
 
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It was quite interesting watching yesterday a Mercedes S450 4matic (long wheelbase version) do a very sharp turn. It had four wheel steer (think 10.5° rear wheel steering) and did the turn with no drama at all.

Very impressive.
 
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It was quite interesting watching yesterday a Mercedes S450 4matic (long wheelbase version) do a very sharp turn. It had four wheel steer (think 10.5° rear wheel steering) and did the turn with no drama at all.

Very impressive.
on 1 hand 4 wheel steer is cool, on the other it is something that is probably very expensive to fix when it breaks.
 
It was quite interesting watching yesterday a Mercedes S450 4matic (long wheelbase version) do a very sharp turn. It had four wheel steer (think 10.5° rear wheel steering) and did the turn with no drama at all.

Very impressive.
The perfect London Taxi Cab :p Seriously though it is very nice.
 
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Maybe, 360 cam, hmm. 🤔 I want a rear camera, I’ve got a convertible, I don’t wires all over, a camera on the rear window is not an option ( cause the top comes down), am going to talk to a local dash cam installer and see how much more they charge for this service. I think it would require a camera on the exterior rear of the car, unless they know something I don’t, would want to run wires hidden, I assume, a hard wire.
Typically you'd put one by the rear numberplate. That is where I've fitted one for my 911, there are little converters to pop in your license plate lighting and the wiring is then neatly following the same route in the car as the original so no drilling. Then tap the power into the reversing light, and feed the video cable through the interior under the carpet (just tuck it in) to the front of the vehicle.
 
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Typically you'd put one by the rear numberplate. That is where I've fitted one for my 911, there are little converters to pop in your license plate lighting and the wiring is then neatly following the same route in the car as the original so no drilling

I wish I’d known about those, it would have been very useful. My vehicle is from before the time of CarPlay - cameras did exist but weren’t on mine, even so back then they were really bad quality.
 
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Maybe, 360 cam, hmm. 🤔 I want a rear camera, I’ve got a convertible, I don’t wires all over, a camera on the rear window is not an option ( cause the top comes down), am going to talk to a local dash cam installer and see how much more they charge for this service. I think it would require a camera on the exterior rear of the car, unless they know something I don’t, would want to run wires hidden, I assume, a hard wire.
Are you going to install it yourself, or pay a shop to? I always hate the price charged for something that would take 1/2 day. But so often, the 1/2 day turns into a weekend. And the back pain...
 
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Are you going to install it yourself, or pay a shop to? I always hate the price charged for something that would take 1/2 day. But so often, the 1/2 day turns into a weekend. And the back pain...
It’s all in the preparation. Should take five minutes to unscrew a number plate light, and take the insight trim off. If that. And to splice into a reversing wire another five minutes if that. Then bring the wire(s) through to the front. Typically half an hour unless you have a 911 where the firewall is in the back. And running it behind the screen in the dash perhaps another hour or two depending on the type of vehicle.

But if you don’t know the head unit and how to include it, or the wire colours and don’t have a tester then it could be a bit more 😂
 
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It’s all in the preparation. Should take five minutes to unscrew a number plate light, and take the insight trim off. If that. And to splice into a reversing wire another five minutes if that. Then bring the wire(s) through to the front. Typically half an hour unless you have a 911 where the firewall is in the back. And running it behind the screen in the dash perhaps another hour or two depending on the type of vehicle.

But if you don’t know the head unit and how to include it, or the wire colours and don’t have a tester then it could be a bit more 😂
That's what gets me. I've been through my head unit so many times. But never seen or messed with reversing wire, so something like that may take 2 minutes or 2 hours. :/
 
Ferrari has a talk online on their Youtube channel on the F80 with some of the technical folks. Italian language with subtitles.

To their credit they went into interesting technical detail. Very informative, the F80 seems very clever.

It also covers a bit on the 499P, but in less detail.
 
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That's what gets me. I've been through my head unit so many times. But never seen or messed with reversing wire, so something like that may take 2 minutes or 2 hours. :/
You tap into the reversing wire by the reversing light ;) When that gets power you are in reverse. Only easy when you know it :p
 
Just a FYI for anyone tapping into existing automotive wiring, try not to use “vampire” taps. You want to use positaps. Positaps poke a hole into the insulation without cutting open the sides, and potentially slicing some of the copper strands. Here are positaps on amazon:

Posi-Tap taps 14-16 ga. Pack of 6. Posi Taps (Choose Your Gauge Size and Amount) (6, 14-16) https://a.co/d/aq9inTX

They are more expensive, but you will be shocked how much a vehicles wiring harness/labor to install it will be.
 
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IMG_0588.jpeg


A few of you know I have a collection of 1:18 scale models, mainly Porsche race cars such as the Porsche 917 from 1969, 1970 and 1971, and also some 1982/1983 model Porsche 956C and the two Dauer 962LM GT cars from Le Mans 1994.

But I got the above one as something special.

It's a 1:18 scale of the Bugatti EB110 Supersport.

I love the EB110 and really respect the people who built it. They put their hearts into this and they deserved to succeed. At least now people are realising just what a remarkable machine those people built and they are becoming very collectible.

Even today the specifications on that car are still quite unbelievable. And it's not a big car either, it's quite small, the wheelbase is quite short - so fitting in 12 cylinders, 4 turbos, 6 speed transmission and 4 wheel drive is a big achievement. I'll quote from the original sales brochure:

Engine characteristics:
Engine: Longitudinally mounted mid-engine
Cycle: four-stroke otto-cycle
No. of cylinders: 12 in V 60º
Cylinder diameter: 81mm
Stroke: 56.6mm
Total displacement: 3,499.92cm³
Compression ratio: 8.0:1
Maximum power: 450kW (612bhp) at 8000rpm
Unit power: 128.5kW/litre (174.8hp/litre)
Maximum torque: 650Nm (66kgm) at 4200rpm
Maximum revs: 8500rpm

Engine construction:
Monobloc: Alluminium
Cylinder heads: RR 350 Cu alloy
Connections: Titanium
Gearing: 2x2 overhead camshaft
Intake valves: 3
Exhaust valves: 2

Alimentation:
Bugatti multipoint fuel injection
Supercharged by 4 IHI turbos
Booster pressure: 1.2 bar

Ignition: Static capacitive discharge (one coil per cylinder)

Lubrication: Dry sump
ELF Biodegradable lubricant XT

Gears: 6 + reverse

Powertrain:
Permanent 4 wheel drive
Front differential: Free
Rear differential: 50% self blocking
Central differential: Viscous coupling limited slip differential
Torque distribution: Front 27% Rear 73%

Chassis:
Carbon-fibre Bugatti/Aerospatiale

Body: Alluminium closed 2 door 2 seater (Dauer versions carbon-fibre body)

Performance:
0-100km/h: 3.26 sec
Maximum speed: 351km/h

Supposedly the Dauer improved cars are capable of 370km/h with their lower weight and higher power but I don't know if there are any independent verification of the claims from Mr Dauer. He reckons he has seen 400km/h on the autobahn, though I wonder about that given it must need different gear ratios. 705hp theoretically could do it. The improved cars also had much better throttle response and less turbo lag, but they retained the basic light, responsive controls of the original car, so it wasn't a heavy, hard to operate thing. Apparently the only thing changed in that regard was to fit softer Eibach springs because the weight had been reduced.
 
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Just a FYI for anyone tapping into existing automotive wiring, try not to use “vampire” taps. You want to use positaps. Positaps poke a hole into the insulation without cutting open the sides, and potentially slicing some of the copper strands. Here are positaps on amazon:

Posi-Tap taps 14-16 ga. Pack of 6. Posi Taps (Choose Your Gauge Size and Amount) (6, 14-16) https://a.co/d/aq9inTX

They are more expensive, but you will be shocked how much a vehicles wiring harness/labor to install it will be.
I would argue you don't use either and do a proper splice. I'd shiver when I see car wiring done with such devices. Heavy, big, not as good a connection as it can be and prone to break over time.
 
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I would argue you don't use either and do a proper splice. I'd shiver when I see car wiring done with such devices. Heavy, big, not as good a connection as it can be and prone to break over time.

If you have to use one, posi-taps are the best option. Unfortunately, there isn’t much better than a posi-tap, unless you are able to add in a female to male inline harness (Y adapter). This is 100% the ideal way to go, but unless the device is made specifically for your vehicle you are out of luck. I have in the past looked for male/female harnesses so I can build my own adapter, it is sooo hard to find the OEM style plugs.

A “proper splice” as also not a good option, as you are cutting a wire and/or wire insulation. A posi-tap simply pokes a hole through the middle, which when removed, a little bit of electrical tape or liquid sealant will get you back to a sealed unmolested factory wire. I would rather not cut off insulation or cut factory wires.

For my Tesla accessories, they have Y adapters, so no splicing, or taps needed. Just unplug the harness, and plug in the included adapter, and plug the other end back in. Done.
 
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If you have to use one, posi-taps are the best option. Unfortunately, there isn’t much better than a posi-tap, unless you are able to add in a female to male inline harness (Y adapter). This is 100% the ideal way to go, but unless the device is made specifically for your vehicle you are out of luck. I have in the past looked for male/female harnesses so I can build my own adapter, it is sooo hard to find the OEM style plugs.

A “proper splice” as also not a good option, as you are cutting a wire and/or wire insulation. A posi-tap simply pokes a hole through the middle, which when removed, a little bit of electrical tape or liquid sealant will get you back to a sealed unmolested factory wire. I would rather not cut off insulation or cut factory wires.

For my Tesla accessories, they have Y adapters, so no splicing, or taps needed. Just unplug the harness, and plug in the included adapter, and plug the other end back in. Done.
Handy if it is off-the-shelve. I just splice in my own, takes minutes if that.
 
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So this is one of the follow-ons from the Lexus LFA:


Toyota GR GT is what they call it.

It is quite heavy at 1750kg, so the 640hp doesn't seem all that impressive. Apparently will be available 2027.

I do like the look of it (inside too it is nicely done), but I have to wonder if a 911 Turbo S would do the job better with everyday ease and cheaper - it looks like it will be USD$500K.

But the original LFA would be still more desirable I think.
 
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I’m going to start shopping for a replacement of my 2012 Toyota Hilander. We really don’t need another car this size and I’m thinking it’s a good time to consider a hybrid.
Since I no longer own a truck, I like the fact that I can stick 10 bags of mulch in the back of the Hilander, And on occasion, I’m able to stick 8’ 2x4s in the center of the car from dash to back. It’s just nice not to have to rent a trailer for things like these. It’s also got a roof rack where I have secured some larger (but not heavy) items. So cargo space is valued.
As far as hybrids, there are “plug ins” with electric motors that power the wheels. I think I like this better than hybrids that sport dual power trains. I realize these cars have a ton of tech in them, I’d just think that a single drive train might be simpler with less maintenance in the future?
Looking at Hybrids: Nissan Rogue, Honda CRV, Toyota RAV4 and Hilander. Any others?
Thoughts? Thanks.
 
I’m going to start shopping for a replacement of my 2012 Toyota Hilander. We really don’t need another car this size and I’m thinking it’s a good time to consider a hybrid.
Since I no longer own a truck, I like the fact that I can stick 10 bags of mulch in the back of the Hilander, And on occasion, I’m able to stick 8’ 2x4s in the center of the car from dash to back. It’s just nice not to have to rent a trailer for things like these. It’s also got a roof rack where I have secured some larger (but not heavy) items. So cargo space is valued.
As far as hybrids, there are “plug ins” with electric motors that power the wheels. I think I like this better than hybrids that sport dual power trains. I realize these cars have a ton of tech in them, I’d just think that a single drive train might be simpler with less maintenance in the future?
Looking at Hybrids: Nissan Rogue, Honda CRV, Toyota RAV4 and Hilander. Any others?
Thoughts? Thanks.
If you want less maintenance go full electric. A hybrid is more complicated than either a BEV or ice vehicle.
 
If you want less maintenance go full electric. A hybrid is more complicated than either a BEV or ice vehicle.
I understand, just not sure I’m ready for that. I’m not convinced my area has adequate infastructure to support it, although I have read that some newer tech allows charging from a regular 110v outlet.
 
I understand, just not sure I’m ready for that. I’m not convinced my area has adequate infastructure to support it, although I have read that some newer tech allows charging from a regular 110v outlet.
They have always been able to charge from any variety of voltage outlets. But it takes a lot longer obviously.

What’s your daily/weekly mileage? I charge mine once a week at work (free of charge) and 95% of the time that’s all I do.

But of course it’s a lot further along in Europe than it is in the US.

But when I’m needing to charge on the road there are plenty of options.
 
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They have always been able to charge from any variety of voltage outlets. But it takes a lot longer obviously.

What’s your daily/weekly mileage? I charge mine once a week at work (free of charge) and 95% of the time that’s all I do.

But of course it’s a lot further along in Europe than it is in the US.

But when I’m needing to charge on the road there are plenty of options.
I mostly drive locally, short distance, but this car would be my sudo-utility vehicle like the Hilander was.
 
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