I teach English in two very rural Japanese public high schools as an employee of the Japanese government, holding the position of ALT (Assistant Language Teacher, meaning I'm always stuck team-teaching with various Japanese teachers). One school is normal, and the other school is a marine hard-ass school for all the kids who can't function in normal schools; basically they take all of the prefecture's rejects and stick them in one school where they live in dorms and learn how to be fishermen or seafood processors.
Since I'm a government employee I have a lot of perks at my job in terms of time off, good hours, national health insurance, subsidized housing, tax-exempt in both Japan and America, etc. etc.
So how is the job itself? Well, I'll be glad to be leaving in July.
The schools themselves are over sixty years old and decrepit; heat and A/C are nonexistent outside of the staffroom, but even then they are used sparingly and you spend the majority of your time sweating your ass off or freezing. I do share a crowded staffroom with all other teachers and we each have our own desk with ethernet.
The kids--I have some classes of really great kids (advanced kids at my normal school) who are willing to learn and are just really good kids and I enjoy teaching them. But since I'm in a rural spot, it's well known that the schools are terribly low-level in general, and the vast majority of my kids will never go to college (they are put in tracks in high school, only the advanced kids [3 classes out of my 30-35] are going to regular universities) so coupled with the fact English is required throughout junior high and high school (even for my marine kids who will go get fishing jobs on the docks 200 meters away) you can imagine how few kids give a crap about English and it gets pretty depressing.
I hate the education system here too, which only compounds the problem; the emphasis is on college entrance exams and college entrance exams only, so English classes are taught exclusively in Japanese lecturing grammar out of a book; aside from my classes, there is no speaking component for students. End result? After six years of English, kids truly can't answer "How. Are. YOU?" They just cock their head to the side because the system failed to teach them how to speak English, and only taught them how to pass a stupid exam. Add to this that most kids won't go to college, and add to this that discipline in Japanese schools is next to nonexistent (since the parents pay about $100 a month for students to attend) and you get a lot of smart ass kids who think it's ok to sleep, walk out of class, throw a fit and slam doors and knock over desks, get up, talk nonstop, screw around, fight, or just not DO anything in class no matter how many times you tell them flat out to pick up their pencils. I should note all of these things happen at both schools, not just the marine school. Also nothing they do in class counts towards their grade and they know this--the only thing that matters is tests, so if they "don't feel like" doing something and want to disrespectfully whine, that's ok too.
Another problem is that a LOT of English teachers can't speak English themselves; a teacher of mine (who speaks well) said that the sole requirement for a teaching license in any subject is to attend a few weeks' worth of classes; sit through it and you get a license at the end--there's not even a beloved test the the Japanese tend to hold in such high esteem for everything else in life. You'd be surprised how many English teachers I have to communicate with nearly exclusively in Japanese. The kids lose on this.
So basically you have a system that forces kids to learn something they hate and have even less use for (as a whole for all but the advanced kids) than other subjects, teaches it very poorly, and has no semblance of discipline which is a recipe for unfulfillment. To make it worse, the students *generally* like me more than other teachers but they don't see me as a real teacher--I am just seen as a novelty and to most kids a friend and not a teacher they feel they need to respect or listen to (again advanced kids aside). English in Japan is pretty abysmal.
I should also note the system has no idea how to prepare ALTs to work with the Japanese teachers, nor does it prepare the Japanese teachers with how to implement ALTs; it's a bit soul crushing standing in class as a native speaker while the Japanese teacher plays a CD for a listening activity of someone with a horsesh*t forced accent.
That's kind of a short version of my insights into the Japanese education system and the students.
So aside from that--the other aspect is how us foreigners are viewed by our coworkers. A lot of coworkers (particularly English teachers) are pretty warm (and are many others) but at the end of the day the general feeling you get is that of a neglected stray dog; people assume that you can't speak Japanese (even if you can), but in a lot of cases there are heavy rural dialects that make communication difficult on both ends. People will never say it, but in surveys conducted by the govt the Japanese teachers tend to resent the ALTs because we have far less work to do (as a whole) and in many cases get paid the same or more than our Japanese counterparts. Even if you come here with a teaching degree, the other teachers will never see you as a 'real' teacher--no matter how nice they are to you and vice versa, at the end of the day you will always be the pissant ALT, the lowest on the totem pole in their eyes. You are not Japanese, and you never can be.
While most ALTs do no lesson planning, exam writing, or grading, I am utilized fully and even run an English Speaking Society club after school (on Fridays, damn why can't it be any other day) and help with speech contest and Eiken (some English test) interviews. In some respects I'm happy I get to plan and run my own lessons entirely but at other times I wish I could just tag along like most other ALTs and just do what the Japanese teacher wants during their lesson. What gets frustrating is that I have no textbooks to work from and when I got here I spent weeks asking what the students' abilities were (came here during summer vacation) and just kept getting "low level" whatever that meant, and kept asking what they were capable of after 3-5 years of English instruction. Needless to say, my low expectations weren't even close to being met and LOTS of lessons failed miserably, still with no input from the Japanese teachers afterwards because culturally they want to preserve the harmony, aka talk amongst themselves about how bad your lesson was when you aren't around but never give you feedback or suggestions even when you ask for them (another thing they do which shows this cultural mentality is annual evaluations--I'm never told or shown the results, so how can I improve?).
So I was basically dumped in a completely foreign education system with no input on the students' abilities, no set curriculum or input on what to teach (besides "I dunno maybe some game"), and no textbooks or materials to work from--I literally pull stuff out of my ass and make everything from scratch and have been doing so since day one. The worst aspect of being an ALT is probably that when a lesson is failing, and the students are doing whatever the hell they please, the Japanese teacher stands in the corner like a potted plant, often offering no assistance or saying anything--but watching your lesson fail; it's much like having your boss standing over your shoulder watching you work on a computer.
My work load tends to oscillate; I can work 12 hour days on end, and then wind up doing literally nothing for days on end. Right now the school year has just ended, so until April 10th or thereabouts the kids are on Spring break and I have ZERO responsibilities; nonetheless, I still have to come in, plug in my computer, play on the internet for eight hours, and go home. I could take vacation, and I probably will all of next week, but generally even if I have nothing to do and no classes I have to come in, including 6-8 weeks straight during summer. On one hand it's super boring, but on the other hand I've learned that it's completely stress free and a pretty easy way to collect forty gs tax-free with $130 rent.
Don't get me wrong--there are a lot of things I like about my job and there are a lot of perks and it looks awesome on a resume since it's a well-regarded program and I love a lot of my students and many of them are good kids--even if they are disrespectful in class--they are still just normal teenagers so some of that is inherent--but overall there are a lot of immensely frustrating things about the job and the education system, and even more so what's frustrating is that everyone seems to realize it but nobody in Japan wants to be the nail that sticks out and disturb the harmony by complaining and raising hell (teachers work 6-7 days a week every week for upwards of 14 hours but a LOT of it sadly is just lazy face time, devoting themselves to "The Company" and having no quality of life as is the common work culture of Japan). The other issue is the group-think mentality--something may be done in an absolutely retarded way, "But that's the way it's always been done."
So all in all, I will be glad to do something else come the end of July. It's been a good experience and an interesting insight into the work-centric culture of Japan and a pretty shocking insight to the public education system though.
*back to being a stray dog playing on the internet*