Of course you arent getting to use the phone for free. You are paying the your usage and the depreciation. That $999 X will be worth $500-600 (whatever it is) in a year when the new model comes out, not $999 still.
You have the option to buy out the other 50% of the payments; BUT unless you can go sell it for more than that buyout price then why would you want to lose money? Or you can buy it out and use it forever or give it to family etc. You own the phone after you make all 24 payments.
iphones do hold their value so it is typically worth more than 50% after a year where you could buy out the 50% remaining and sell the phone privately, but not a ton of profit. It depends if you want to deal with selling it and all the scammers out there to make $50 or $75.
The problem this year is the 8 is already out so 7/7 Plus average selling prices already took a crap. It's not like prior years where all new devices were out same day and anyone wanting to save money would buy the old that would result in profit selling it the day after getting your new device.
For example, if you had a 7 plus 128gb then after 12 months you still owe about $435. Theyre only selling in the $525 to $540 range on the website Swappa before Paypal fees and shipping (seller pays it from that price). Swappa takes $20 for anything over $500, paypal takes 2.9% plus $.30 (or $16 on $540) and shipping with tracking will run you say $10. That $540 quickly becomes $495, you owe $435. And once people get their Xs the market will be flooded with even more 7 series driving prices down even more.
Do you need to get approved again if you are already part of the program?
Here’s my scenario.
Signed up for iPhone Upgrade Program launch day last year and got a 128GB 7 Plus.
At this point I have a balance of $457 on the phone. I want to upgrade to the X. Instead of me trading the phone in, I sold it for $600 by meeting someone from Craigslist and will use that money to pay off the phone, thus making like $150 profit.
I can still do the upgrade since the loan/account is still open. I just sold it privately instead of returning it to Apple.
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Yes. It’s an entirely new credit check.
It doesn’t seem like a good deal compared to keeping the phone for 24+ months. I just did the math on my 6S+ which I paid $930 for with CA sales tax 25 months ago. I could trade it into Apple for $250 (so no time wasted with Craigslist or eBay.) That means it cost me $27.20 per month. So $48-50 a month in perpetuity doesn’t seem like such a good deal.
None of your math equals $27.20/month. None of the payment plans for a 6S Plus were under $30/month (as 24 times $30 is only $720 and the 16gb was $750)
You cannot count the extra month as this year's release cycle is atypical and everyone on payments made 1 extra payment
And you cannot count what you sold it for into the cost to own, unless you factor what you could maybe sell the X for into the $48-50/month equation.
If you need a loan to get a phone, maybe you shouldn't be getting it in the first place. I know I sound like an elitist or something, but still....
Lots of people are quoting you, giving insight as to how idiotic they think your post is.
Just want to say yes, you are right. Whether it's a no interest loan or a whatever, if you need a loan to get this particular phone, GROW THE F UP AND STICK WITH WHAT YOU HAVE, BECAUSE YOU ALREADY HAVE A PERFECTLY WORKING PHONE DON'T YOU?
Deepest apologies to anyone triggered by the the all caps/try-living-within-your-means comment.
I bought the phone outright for $930 with tax. I just looked at the receipt. I could trade it into Apple for $250. Actually I just checked and Verizon will give me $290. If you don’t know how to subtract the two numbers and divide by 25 than I don’t know what to tell you.
The soonest I can get the iPhone X is 11/3 so that’s one extra month to average the deprecition over. Same with 7/7+ owners on IUP. They’re going to be paying for one extra month to get the X.
Phones don’t depreciate to zero in two years. Making that assumption in your math is foolish.
Your post makes no sense. You say my post is idiotic then you scream that you agree? Um...ok?
Why does your score fluctuate so much month to month? That's really odd.
Nowhere near $48-50 per month to own it using your formula for cost to own; more like $29. Is the $2/month net operating cost going to break you?
You do realize every time a credit inquiry hits, it makes you less credit-worthey. It lowers your score for 3 years. Causing higher insurance premiums, higher loan and credit card interest rates, etc. If that's worth you having "no interest" for a year, so be it. You pay one way or another. I guess for me dropping $1k on a phone isn't a big deal, I'd never think about applying for a loan to buy it.
more like 3 seconds. Better have fast fingersI would bet people will have a minute or less before it goes out of stock.
If you go read my original post I was pointing out that paying $48-50 to get a new phone every year doesn’t seem like such a good deal vs. buying outright and upgrading every 24 months. By my math I paid half that amount per month to own the (flagship at the time) 6S+ for two years. I’m guessing the X is going to cost me about $5 more per month over 24 months.
I run my business on rather than a crappuccino or greasy fast food meal once a month which is that few dollar difference monthly.
That is exactly what it does. I did this for 1UP with my iPhone 8. You fill out all the loan info and your carrier information and click... then you get an email that everything is approved and you are ready to order on the announced order date. Then when the orders open up, you just go to your cart and with one click you are done.
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My apologies if this question has already been answered--if so, I couldn't find it. Will *new* IUP signups be available on 10/23? Or is the 10/23 "head start" only for those *already* enrolled in IUP?
I’d say you’ve missed the point about the program, as it’s more iPhone as a Service than a loan.If you need a loan to get a phone, maybe you shouldn't be getting it in the first place. I know I sound like an elitist or something, but still....
I bet that TMO customers still have to go into the store to make this work....
If you need a loan to get a phone, maybe you shouldn't be getting it in the first place. I know I sound like an elitist or something, but still....
Lots of people are quoting you, giving insight as to how idiotic they think your post is.
Just want to say yes, you are right. Whether it's a no interest loan or a whatever, if you need a loan to get this particular phone, GROW THE F UP AND STICK WITH WHAT YOU HAVE, BECAUSE YOU ALREADY HAVE A PERFECTLY WORKING PHONE DON'T YOU?
Deepest apologies to anyone triggered by the the all caps/try-living-within-your-means comment.
Lots of people are quoting you, giving insight as to how idiotic they think your post is.
Just want to say yes, you are right. Whether it's a no interest loan or a whatever, if you need a loan to get this particular phone, GROW THE F UP AND STICK WITH WHAT YOU HAVE, BECAUSE YOU ALREADY HAVE A PERFECTLY WORKING PHONE DON'T YOU?
Deepest apologies to anyone triggered by the the all caps/try-living-within-your-means comment.
Can I hire you as my money manager?
Let’s see, pay $1,000 for the iPhone X or get a zero interest loan and invest that $1,000 instead? Unfortunately this program isn’t available up here. But if it was I’d take advantage of it for sure.
Years ago I bought my wife a new car. We had saved up enough cash to afford something for $25K. I qualified for 0.9% financing. So I financed the car instead and made a large contribution to my RRSPs that year. My total interest on the loan was a little over $600. My marginal tax rate was 40% that year, so my $25K contribution netted me a reduction in income taxes of $10,000.
Using your logic I should have paid cash for the car. I would have saved a measly $600 in interest and missed out on reducing my income taxes by $10,000. Now some might say I could simply take the monthly car payments and deposit them into my RRSP account over a period of several years instead of doing the lump sum. The problem with that is I made more money than usual that year, and the fact I’m going to wind down my working hours as I ease into retirement. So my tax rate will be lowered which means my contributions will save me far less than my lump sum did.
Bottom line? Anytime you can borrow money at 0% (or a very low rate) it’s usually a good idea to take advantage of it. That is, if you actually do something with the cash you were going to spend.