No, it doesn’t matter . You paid so much money it should all work correctly. Demand a fix. 😂*if you do 30 seconds low-light astrophotography
Edited your comment.![]()
No, it doesn’t matter . You paid so much money it should all work correctly. Demand a fix. 😂*if you do 30 seconds low-light astrophotography
Edited your comment.![]()
still think the bigger issues with big blue areas has to do with blue hot pixels being processed somehow.
Hot pixels are not exactly dead, because their place vary and it's different every time. If they were dead, you will see them everytime at some spot. It's something like the blue haze, but on much lower scale. At the end, the blue haze are many pixels at one spot.It has to do with the sensor not being able to capture R, G and B with the same weight at high current.
Hot pixels are usually dead and does not provide any real data. The blue area is not dead, it just does not perform as it should for each color channel at high ISO.
It has to do with the sensor not being able to capture R, G and B with the same weight at high current.
Hot pixels are usually dead and does not provide any real data. The blue area is not dead, it just does not perform as it should for each color channel at high ISO.
Hot pixels are not exactly dead, because their place vary and it's different every time. If they were dead, you will see them everytime at some spot. It's something like the blue haze, but on much lower scale. At the end, the blue haze are many pixels at one spot.
Yes, I’m not arguing against it. It’s just that iPhones processing with multiple exposures, not always actually taking 30s photos, photo processing and so on makes it harder to say it’s only hardware.
There are multiple levels with issues and many (if not all) examples seems to have blue hot pixels.
I made 4-5 photos with Reeheld in 30s (pitch dark room). All was dark and no blue haze. But photos was also much darker vs stock iPhone app.Like I have written here hundred times: Using Stock is not scientific as it is not an unprocessed image pipeline. To do a good test of this, use a manual camera app that can do regular unprocessed RAW.
Like I have written here hundred times: Using Stock is not scientific as it is not an unprocessed image pipeline. To do a good test of this, use a manual camera app that can do regular unprocessed RAW.
I made 4-5 photos with Reeheld in 30s (pitch dark room). All was dark and no blue haze. But photos was also much darker vs stock iPhone app.
I will try. So if here is fine like now, does this mean my camera is fine or still not? I'm really confused.Enhance the RAW file to match stock (exposure and shadows). There should be no blue blacks. Only pure black with luma/chroma noise.
I will try. So if here is fine like now, does this mean my camera is fine or still not? I'm really confused.![]()
My confusion arises from the fact that Reeheld displays perfect results, while the stock app shows blue under the same conditions. This discrepancy leads me to question why one app has this feature and the other doesn't. Additionally, I'm unsure if Reeheld is indicative or if I should always rely on the stock app.If you have no issues in real photography then you are fine.
From what I remember, all apps except the stock camera is not able to hold the shutter for more than 1s. What you get from all other apps are actually stacks of 1s photos processed together.My confusion arises from the fact that Reeheld displays perfect results, while the stock app shows blue under the same conditions. This discrepancy leads me to question why one app has this feature and the other doesn't. Additionally, I'm unsure if Reeheld is indicative or if I should always rely on the stock app.
From what I remember, all apps except the stock camera is not able to hold the shutter for more than 1s. What you get from all other apps are actually stacks of 1s photos processed together.
Of course, in real time, a sensor is always being exposed by electronic shutter anyway. And in practice limiting a sensor readout to an application to 1s or 10s divided by sampling frequency should not matter for the case of a static subject.
But the stock camera app does indeed do a continuous 10s exposure (apparently) and that is a privilege not granted to other apps. So....that's your difference right there.
I dont think so, I have both types of blues in all versions of firmware. Bear in mind the 30s is not consistent when you have a pure black target.It seems like the blue issue has been reduced after one or two iOS updates on my device.
Both photos taken with same conditions and in the same ways (under blanket with Apple Watch as remote). Just took a few test photos, but it seems to actually have been reduced.
View attachment 2454160
No issues with 10s. Everything is purely just with 30s.If you see blue tint in the blacks at 10s handheld in low light, the sensor is surely defective.
I dont think so, I have both types of blues in all versions of firmware. Bear in mind the 30s is not consistent when you have a pure black target.
Beta 2 was flawless for me (pitch black), now with beta 3 & 4 it’s indeed very red and blue.Running iOS 18.2 Beta 3 and they are working on fixing it through software. I think Beta 2 was better as it was more black with slight blue tinge. Beta 3 has gone more red 😆 this is just the camera flat down test. I haven’t tried a proper night photo yetView attachment 2454511
I can confirm this. Slight blue lines in the corner under 18.1; Complete blue/red mess in 18.2 b4 🙈🤣Beta 2 - Blue
Beta 3 - Blue + Red
Beta 4 (RC) - Blue + Red + Green
Public - All removed![]()
Yep that's what I think too. Apple always looking to shave a dollar. That said, Samsung is no better.My suspicion is that Apple has started to buy image sensors with a lower quality control classification that are outside of the strict specifications. That is why there are more phones with bad sensors this year.