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still think the bigger issues with big blue areas has to do with blue hot pixels being processed somehow.

It has to do with the sensor not being able to capture R, G and B with the same weight at high current.

Hot pixels are usually dead and does not provide any real data. The blue area is not dead, it just does not perform as it should for each color channel at high ISO.
 
It has to do with the sensor not being able to capture R, G and B with the same weight at high current.

Hot pixels are usually dead and does not provide any real data. The blue area is not dead, it just does not perform as it should for each color channel at high ISO.
Hot pixels are not exactly dead, because their place vary and it's different every time. If they were dead, you will see them everytime at some spot. It's something like the blue haze, but on much lower scale. At the end, the blue haze are many pixels at one spot.
 
It has to do with the sensor not being able to capture R, G and B with the same weight at high current.

Hot pixels are usually dead and does not provide any real data. The blue area is not dead, it just does not perform as it should for each color channel at high ISO.

Yes, I’m not arguing against it. It’s just that iPhones processing with multiple exposures, not always actually taking 30s photos, photo processing and so on makes it harder to say it’s only hardware.

There are multiple levels with issues and many (if not all) examples seems to have blue hot pixels.
 
Hot pixels are not exactly dead, because their place vary and it's different every time. If they were dead, you will see them everytime at some spot. It's something like the blue haze, but on much lower scale. At the end, the blue haze are many pixels at one spot.

Hot pixels should not move around. Then something is very weird. These are physical pixels on the sensor that react different to high ISO and they should always be in the same place otherwise it is something else.

Yes, I’m not arguing against it. It’s just that iPhones processing with multiple exposures, not always actually taking 30s photos, photo processing and so on makes it harder to say it’s only hardware.

There are multiple levels with issues and many (if not all) examples seems to have blue hot pixels.

Like I have written here hundred times: Using Stock is not scientific as it is not an unprocessed image pipeline. To do a good test of this, use a manual camera app that can do regular unprocessed RAW.
 
Like I have written here hundred times: Using Stock is not scientific as it is not an unprocessed image pipeline. To do a good test of this, use a manual camera app that can do regular unprocessed RAW.
I made 4-5 photos with Reeheld in 30s (pitch dark room). All was dark and no blue haze. But photos was also much darker vs stock iPhone app.
 
Like I have written here hundred times: Using Stock is not scientific as it is not an unprocessed image pipeline. To do a good test of this, use a manual camera app that can do regular unprocessed RAW.

I agree, I posted examples on page one with photos taken with another app, and while it's showing some blue hue it's a huge difference in processing. I tested and made some comparison with different apps, and that's why I'm pretty sure it's not only the hardware that makes some photos as bad as they are.
 
Here are my examples. The blue dot is the blue led on my mouse scroll wheel.

Edit: I just asked my sister. She has a Desert Titanium 16 Pro, and it has a slight tint even at 10 seconds. At 30 seconds, the whole image is blue. Her battery was manufactured in July 2024 (Bought in Germany), while mine was manufactured in August 2024 (Bought here in Bulgaria).

Edit 2. I'm attaching her results. 10.jpg / 30.jpg for seconds.
 

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I made 4-5 photos with Reeheld in 30s (pitch dark room). All was dark and no blue haze. But photos was also much darker vs stock iPhone app.

Enhance the RAW file to match stock (exposure and shadows). There should be no blue blacks. Only pure black with luma/chroma noise.
 
If you have no issues in real photography then you are fine.
My confusion arises from the fact that Reeheld displays perfect results, while the stock app shows blue under the same conditions. This discrepancy leads me to question why one app has this feature and the other doesn't. Additionally, I'm unsure if Reeheld is indicative or if I should always rely on the stock app.
 
My confusion arises from the fact that Reeheld displays perfect results, while the stock app shows blue under the same conditions. This discrepancy leads me to question why one app has this feature and the other doesn't. Additionally, I'm unsure if Reeheld is indicative or if I should always rely on the stock app.
From what I remember, all apps except the stock camera is not able to hold the shutter for more than 1s. What you get from all other apps are actually stacks of 1s photos processed together.


Of course, in real time, a sensor is always being exposed by electronic shutter anyway. And in practice limiting a sensor readout to an application to 1s or 10s divided by sampling frequency should not matter for the case of a static subject.

But the stock camera app does indeed do a continuous 10s exposure (apparently) and that is a privilege not granted to other apps. So....that's your difference right there.
 
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From what I remember, all apps except the stock camera is not able to hold the shutter for more than 1s. What you get from all other apps are actually stacks of 1s photos processed together.


Of course, in real time, a sensor is always being exposed by electronic shutter anyway. And in practice limiting a sensor readout to an application to 1s or 10s divided by sampling frequency should not matter for the case of a static subject.

But the stock camera app does indeed do a continuous 10s exposure (apparently) and that is a privilege not granted to other apps. So....that's your difference right there.

This is correct. Apple CameraKit is limiting exposure to 1s. Apps that expose longer than that will stack and the sensor will shut down for a very short duration between each 1s take. This short shutdown can be enough to prevent heat to build up in the sensor which can explain why stock shows most of the blue issue.

However when used without a tripod or having the phone lean against something, the stock camera will rarely expose each frame for longer than half a second to prevent motion blur. If you see blue tint in the blacks at 10s handheld in low light, the sensor is surely defective.
 
It seems like the blue issue has been reduced after one or two iOS updates on my device.

Both photos taken with same conditions and in the same ways (under blanket with Apple Watch as remote). Just took a few test photos, but it seems to actually have been reduced.

Picsew_20241121111748.jpeg
 
Unfortunately I have tried a few
It seems like the blue issue has been reduced after one or two iOS updates on my device.

Both photos taken with same conditions and in the same ways (under blanket with Apple Watch as remote). Just took a few test photos, but it seems to actually have been reduced.

View attachment 2454160
I dont think so, I have both types of blues in all versions of firmware. Bear in mind the 30s is not consistent when you have a pure black target.

In real life very dark scenes, the type where you will trip and fall, the blue is not too horrible if you don't have another unaffected phone to compare with. But if you do you will see it in a few seconds.
 
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I dont think so, I have both types of blues in all versions of firmware. Bear in mind the 30s is not consistent when you have a pure black target.

When I have tried 30s in pure black I have gotten consistent results. And now the blue colour is reduced.
That’s why I wrote on my device. Then again, I don’t see it in real photos :)
 
Here again tests. Pitch-dark room looking into the wall.

10 and 30 seconds. Info on the phone says 10 and 30 seconds, but If i check photos via "Properties" - 10s is 2s and 30s is 10s. No idea why. How it is?
 

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Running iOS 18.2 Beta 3 and they are working on fixing it through software. I think Beta 2 was better as it was more black with slight blue tinge. Beta 3 has gone more red 😆 this is just the camera flat down test. I haven’t tried a proper night photo yet
IMG_0388.jpeg
 
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Running iOS 18.2 Beta 3 and they are working on fixing it through software. I think Beta 2 was better as it was more black with slight blue tinge. Beta 3 has gone more red 😆 this is just the camera flat down test. I haven’t tried a proper night photo yetView attachment 2454511
Beta 2 was flawless for me (pitch black), now with beta 3 & 4 it’s indeed very red and blue.
 
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IMG_3229.jpeg
this the photo resulted after 30 seconds exposure using my iPhone 16 pro
 
My suspicion is that Apple has started to buy image sensors with a lower quality control classification that are outside of the strict specifications. That is why there are more phones with bad sensors this year.
Yep that's what I think too. Apple always looking to shave a dollar. That said, Samsung is no better.
 
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