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Creating a copy of your HDD to SSD?
- Thread starter XGO7
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Fishrrman
macrumors Nehalem
XG07 wrote:
"When I try to erase the Internal HD it gives me the following error (image attached)."
Try this:
1. Boot from your external SSD
2. Open Disk Utility but don't "do anything" with it, yet. Instead...
3. Click on the desktop to bring the finder "to the front"
4. Now, "grab" the icon for the INTERNAL drive, and drag and drop it into the trash to dismount it.
Does it disappear in the finder?
If so....
5. Click again in DU to bring it to the front.
6. Click the TOPMOST line that represents the internal drive.
7. Now try clicking the "erase" button and see if works.
"When I try to erase the Internal HD it gives me the following error (image attached)."
Try this:
1. Boot from your external SSD
2. Open Disk Utility but don't "do anything" with it, yet. Instead...
3. Click on the desktop to bring the finder "to the front"
4. Now, "grab" the icon for the INTERNAL drive, and drag and drop it into the trash to dismount it.
Does it disappear in the finder?
If so....
5. Click again in DU to bring it to the front.
6. Click the TOPMOST line that represents the internal drive.
7. Now try clicking the "erase" button and see if works.
Hi, when formatting the external SSD, did you encrypt it that point, or do you rely on FileVault (once the OS has been installed). Not sure whether you can ‘unlock’ the drive with the former method when starting up.
You 100% sure you’re not booting from internal drive by mistake? Just check About This Mac from the Apple menu top left. Or as above you could have been running an app from it - sometimes I’ve noticed if I use finder to find an app by search name it’s top pick is the one off the backup drive not the system drive (because both are indexed - I should probably turn that off!). Hence if you’re not careful you can actually be running apps from the backup drive accidentally...
Guy Clark
Suspended
As others have suggested here I thoroughly recommend Carbon Copy Cloner
https://bombich.com
https://bombich.com
This worked! I dragged it to trash to unmount the drive, then under disk utility i was able to format it. Thanks!
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SilverBen
macrumors newbie
Will running from external under the circumstances here be as fast as if he had it installed internally?
[doublepost=1534038428][/doublepost]I have older 2010 iMac. I hear some clicks and other noises but basically seems like the 1tb HDD it came with, has slowed to a crawl
[doublepost=1534038428][/doublepost]I have older 2010 iMac. I hear some clicks and other noises but basically seems like the 1tb HDD it came with, has slowed to a crawl
Guy Clark
Suspended
The 2010 iMac does not have Thunderbolt 2 but is just a Mini Display Port which cannot communicate with an external drive. The issue is further compounded by USB 2.0 so although it would work the performance would be poor. The only viable option in this case is to replace the internal drive. I thoroughly recommend a Seagate Hybrid Drive SSHD which offers improved performance and is inexpensive. Another option is the excellent High Performance Western Digital Black HDD
https://www.seagate.com/gb/en/solutions/solid-state-hybrid/
https://www.wdc.com/products/internal-storage/wd-black-desktop.html
Replacing the Hard Drive in a 2010 iMac
21.5"
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+21.5-Inch+EMC+2389+Hard+Drive+Replacement/6284
27"
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+27-Inch+EMC+2390+Hard+Drive+Replacement/8919
bplein
macrumors 6502a
What do you want to do? Just make a copy? Or to install an SSD internally?
Internal install difficulty and required tools and parts lists can be found on ifixit.com
edhchoe
macrumors 65816
I could not find the info on ifixit.com.
I will just do what the OP did.
So I will need to buy a SSD.
What does an enclosure do?
bplein
macrumors 6502a
Then you are literally not going to ifixit.com and trying to help yourself. I found the hard drive replacement instructions for your exact model within several seconds of going to the site, just now.
How do you think you are going to connect an SSD and transfer your information to it when an SSD has a SATA interface for internal use? You need to put it in a USB (or thunderbolt 1) enclosure.
I don't think this is up your alley. Pay someone to do the work for you.
edhchoe
macrumors 65816
How would I connect this to my Thunderbolt 1 socket?
[doublepost=1540757096][/doublepost]
I get it...
I can either buy an internal SSD and put it in an enclosure and connect to my iMac or
buy a external SSD and connect it to iMac.
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redfirebird08
macrumors 6502
Carbon Copy Cloner is very easy to use. I have an internal SSD, but I want to preserve it for the long haul so I am actually running my iMac through a bootable external SSD. The external SSD was setup using Carbon Copy Cloner. Works great!
CoastalOR
macrumors 68040
Here is the iFixit guide:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+21.5-Inch+EMC+2428+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5954
Read through the instructions carefully. Step 16 starts showing the adaptor for the 2.5" SSD. It takes patience and the right tools. There is a risk when opening the iMac (or for that matter any computer), but it can be done if you are careful. If it is more than you want to tackle then talk to a local Apple Service Provider.
Your options for an external SSD installation is somewhat limited for performance. External of a USB SSD is a waste because the 2011 iMac only has USB2 ports (it would be acceptable if they were USB3). The only acceptable external SSD option is Thunderbolt 1, but they are pricey because of the Thunderbolt license that the manufacturers have to pay.
This one has a Thunderbolt connection, but it is not cheap;
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Lacie/STFS1000401/
Search around.
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A 2011 is very easy to open and replace the HDD with an SSD. It takes me a half hour one-handed to replace the drive and battery.
A 2010 is also easy but a little different. As the NV RAM batteries are also old, that's a good time to replace them but the 2009-2010 requires that the motherboard be pulled. That adds considerably to the time. A well known Mac shop around here charges $75 to do a 2010 including the battery.
My issue with the iFixIt guides is that they include many unnecessary steps. The 2011 screen does not need to be removed. The only reason to remove the 2009–10 screen is to replace the battery. Do not disconnect the microphone under the bezel—instead, flip the bezel 180° so that it lays upside down with the wire connected—this saves time.
Read the iFixit comments to get an idea of what doesn't need to be done. I also posted some tips in another thread.
A 2010 is also easy but a little different. As the NV RAM batteries are also old, that's a good time to replace them but the 2009-2010 requires that the motherboard be pulled. That adds considerably to the time. A well known Mac shop around here charges $75 to do a 2010 including the battery.
My issue with the iFixIt guides is that they include many unnecessary steps. The 2011 screen does not need to be removed. The only reason to remove the 2009–10 screen is to replace the battery. Do not disconnect the microphone under the bezel—instead, flip the bezel 180° so that it lays upside down with the wire connected—this saves time.
Read the iFixit comments to get an idea of what doesn't need to be done. I also posted some tips in another thread.
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Those in this thread with 2010–2011 iMacs should not consider Mojave at all. The GPUs do not support hardware acceleration which is why a hack is required to install. Serious slow down is just the beginning.
I installed 10.14 onto an external drive and have booted my 2010 and 1011 via eSATA — this is the same as an internal SSD. It works but is so slow as to be useless. I needed to know which of my bread and butter apps are compatible (all of them).
If you need Mojave, as I do, get a 2012 or newer. I'm in the market right now.